In Part 2 of 3, I show step by step how to remove the black coating from the blade, what to expect, and how to do it safely. / preparedmind101 plus.google.com/+preparedmind101 / preparedmind101 / preparedmind101
@@Iaintgivingmyinstaout yes, absolutely. Esee coats for this reason too. Mass production with coating is more cost effective than labor for polishing, apparently
Hey bro, i used to strip furniture for a living. the best way to clean that up is with steel wool and laquer thinner. You soak the steel wool in the thinner then remove all the left over paint and such with the soaked steel wool. That is how you strip it and the fine wool will get the tiny stuff left behind and is washed with thinner as well to nuetralize the stripper. Hope this helps and we wore heavy dish washing gloves to strip with, much better then those thin gloves. Good job and still the same result.
10 year later and this video still holds up. I let mine sit in a pan filled with Jasco for 24 hours and the coating came off rather easily. Then I sent the blade to The Way Of The Knife to put a stonewash finish on it. It's now better protected from the elements than before and I can use the blade for food prep if necessary now that the toxic coating is gone.
One thing I did differently was only strip the blade section. I left the coating on the handle from the ricasso on down to prevent rust or corrosion underneath the scales. Throw a quick 90 degree grind on the spine and it's done. Coconut oil works great for a carbon steel protectant. It stays put and it's obviously safe for any game work. It solidifies at room temp so it won't get everywhere. Throw a little in the pack, you won't be dissapointed. Stuff is universal.
for those asking why strip, not only does the stock coating come off easily but in bits and scratches, it is very high friction. You do want to coat the blade but use a durable and low friction coating. The low friction makes the knife move through everything easier especially when batoning through wood.
Love it. I bought a Lionsteel M4 that they made for Blade HQ in CMP M4 steel instead of the usual M390. The added edge retention and MUCH higher toughness made it the easy choice. The only ones they had left had black blades, which I don't like. I've polished knives on a strop using diamond stropping spray, the kind with twice the diamond dust content. Literally a few swipes does it. Actually it's so effective that I only use one or two passes for a polished edge, any more and it'll effect the actual edge.
Why strip it from under the scales??? I did my BK2 but left the coating under the scales. It will rust there if you have plans on actually using the knife outdoors. Cheers
When I stripped the coating off of my Bk2 I used a wire hanger and hung it vertically above a cookie sheet and sprayed it down with the stripper. I did it three times, waiting about 25 minutes between each time, and after each time I would use a little ball of steel wool. Using this strategy I got all of it off, including inside the grooves in less than 2 hours. Hope this helps to anyone :)
"Magic alien blood" I was laughing loudly. Part of the reason I watch your videos is the humor. Most other videos are too serious. In a survival situation you gotta keep your spirits up. Keep on bring the great videos.
Nice video. This will be very helpful when I am going to change my handles to dessert iron wood. i will probably strip the finish first and then change the handles when its done. Again, nice video.
I feel your pain I've got a Ute canopy to try strip the black off and I can't afford getting it blasted I spent half a day yesterday on a grinder with a 40 grit polyfan sanding disk and it's barely done anything to it
Got my BK7 this morning Chris, waiting for wife to get back with the stripper stuff then will remove the hammerite like coating. Not sure if I will polish it up yet but who knows lol. Thanks for the videos on this, just finished watching all 3 parts and have some ideas for mine. Going to order some Kydex over the weekend and will probably start that little project next week. Just need to get this damn Christmas/New Year palava out of the way first lol
I came across your video trying to figure out how to take the DLC off my Benchmade Bugout, I wasn't disappointed. Ordered a can of Jasco asap. I love the result, but the most important part of the video is that I wanted the logo lasering to stay and it clearly does. I'm excited on my project. Thanks so much.
After years of apprehention i bought me some Jasco and stripped my KaBar. I FREAKING KNEW THERE WAS A BEAUTIFUL KNIFE UNDER THAT COATING!!!! It's currently sitting wrapped in a towel soaked in vinegar to force a patina on it. If i could send you pictures I totally would
mirror polish-after your done sanding just take some steel wool and brasso then cotton balls and brasso-works best with a dremel....and if your looking for a cool blueing finish without all the hassle of traditional bluing, after you have the coating off just apply Birchwood Casey supper blue gun blue (make sure you get the super blue, the regular gun blue that they make isnt as good-also gun blue wont take to stainless steel)....stuff works! good vid
Used this on my Cold Steel Recon 1 Bowie. Then Blued it. It's addicting, now I'm running around the house doing ax heads, and other knives now. Good Stuff. Thanks for the Video Share.
Been doing it a long time. I just used to it. Once you start rinsing it's no big deal. The only reason I made a big deal about it on the video is because I want people to be careful and not think they can just use it for hair mousse.
Dude! Find an automotive paint supply store and checkout the 3M brand sandpaper they have there. They go all the way up to 6,000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. It will easy to get a mirror finish on your blades with that. I go up to 1500 grit for my woodworking bench chisels and get a mirror finish. This is the second of your videos I watched and really enjoyed it. Dave,
If u use a Q-tip to get in those little holes it wold work alot better. But nice video just like always. Om planning on getting a bk7 aswell within 2 weeks thanks to you! (: keep up the good work man. (:
I got my first bk and I just want to remove a small section of the coating from the spine for striking fire rods, I like the coating on the rest of it though. Is there a type of sandpaper or something more controlled I can use for a small spot?
I must have got a bad can because I sprayed a thick coat on it didn't foam up as much like yours and I waited 30 minutes and I still can't scrape it off with a plastic spoon. Shook the can well too. It didn't even curl up
You are correct, but that bronze sands off easily. The Dundee Bowie and the Bushcraft Parang were both bronze as f***, but I got them both nice and shiny with little effort. On flat blades like a machete, a cheap electric hand sander and some wet/dry sandpaper from the auto parts store will polish it up nice and FAST.
Looks great! Will this work on the SCHF10? If not, could you make a video where you stripp the Schrade? I have a SCHF10 and think it looks great. But the one you stripped looks so much better!
PM101. Long time Becker owner here.. Love the vids. While I do strip my blades as well, I disagree with you a bit as to the reason why companies like ESEE, Becker etc offer coated blades. It's as much to reduce costs as anything. Paint covers milling marks eliminating polish work. When you combine painted as machined blades with Bolt on scales ,MUCH l hand labor is eliminated. It's the reason why a Becker is 1/3 the cost of any other US made knife of the same size. Keep up the good work..
That's a pretty good looking blade without the black coating. Is there any way to shine the bare blade more and at least make it a little weather resistant? I just like the shiny blades.
Hey Chris, are you sure the paint remover is not effecting the steel? Might be a dumb question but can't it make the outer layer and the edge of the steel more brutal or something like that?
I’m trying to do this to my ka bar fighting knife. I left it over night and weirdly enough the stripper worked on parts of the hand guard, but not on the blade at all. I even tried scraping it with a scraping sponge and nothing. I followed the instructions, and my only thought is maybe the temperature is effecting it?(it’s very cold around 20-40 right now) but why would it work on parts of the guard, and not the blade?
TOPS traction coating is so thick that when I stripped my knife completely after putting it back together it's up ps out of its kydex sheath where it used to be very tight
Could I remove the paint from the blade section without removing the paint from the handle section? Or, once it starts peeling, will it all need to be removed? The coating would seem beneficial under the handle and on the exposed tang, as those are more difficult to keep clean, dry, and oiled.
I've found that a wooden spatula or popsicle stick or bamboo flat stick is way better than a flexible plastic spoon. In the past I have accidently flicked some caustic crap on my face (yes it effing burns!) Wood doesn't flex and spring flick like plastic and wood doesn't disolve like the plastic spoon. Just a quick tip hope it helps.
Rama Cakir well I guess it was only like 50 ml of the chemical with a lot of water so it should be fine, also soil has the ability to cancel out the negative effects to some degree
Different technique, Start with 2, 16" pieces of aluminum foil. apply what ever stripper you use generously to the center of the foil the length of the blade. place the blade in the stripper, coat the top of the blade wrap up in the foil. leave it for an hour or 2. the foil prevents evaporation. and you can roll it up and throw it out when you are done. If you do any work with wood, save the sawdust. a big handfull of sawdust will absorb the stripper and can be used to scrub the blade. Kitty Litter also works too. Also get some proper paint stripping gloves at a paint store, they only cost $2 or $3 bucks.
I am new to this, good video. Would like to get a CS tomahawk and do the cleaning like you showed. Have you done a gun blueing video? That would complete it. Thanks again for your work.
What would you recommend to do if you wanted to remove the coating off only one part of the blade, like the grind and the swedge? Would taping the other parts work?
besides another coating, what is good to keep them from rusting. I just got a schrade schf37 and would like to take the coating off of it. Will the coating on it come off similar to how this came off or are they different?
I have a pretty cheap Rambo style knife I bought years ago (yeah, when you finish laughing please read on). Being it is essentially junk, I thought it would be a good guinea pig for experimentation (learning knife re-profiling and sharpening practice etc). I'm most likely going to have to grind the blade's thickness down a little. Being this knife doesn't have removable handle scales, I was wondering what would be the best method to remove the coating. Is there some kind of tape that would resist the corrosive effect of the stripper, or would I have to resort to sanding (if for example I wanted to leave the hand guard black)? I know I said it is a junk knife, but the entire point is to use it to refine my skills. Therefore I'd like the end result to be halfway decent. Any help would be appreciated.
I just did this to my BK16. I got all the black off and I really like the look now. Does it need to be coated with something else or can I just leave it as is?
