Sandy, you are an amazing man. With all of your personal skills, I am sure that you would be the last man standing in any widespread disaster. I am truly looking forward to the final outcome on your new building. Stay safe, mapleleaf.
Good morning Sandy yes every day getting closer to the built. That is the beauty of thi gs you are your own ingeneer , desingner and got the mill to do it with the main part is when every thing is done you are happy with it and it serve it's purpose have a wonderful day
Thanks Sandy, I've had a few blades break lately so I might get some of those rippers to try. Still sawing this late in the year in between the rain storms! LOL
Once you start laying out the beams, things just seem to fall in place. It'll all come together with the sawmill shed build. I will be a joy to watch the build.
I think you're right. I can frame pretty quickly but getting all the wood cut and footings in place has taken a big chunk of time. I'm hoping from here on out it will go quick
Sandy, great job using the new grader getting ur road looking good. good job cutting some logs for ur newest Sawmill Shed. winter is just around the bend..
Hey there Billy! Winter sure is knocking on the door the last few days. I'm hoping the snow doesn't come around for another 6 weeks or so but who knows really.
Progress and fun, peanut butter and chocolate, all great combination! I'd say your doing a fine job there Sandy. As for the beams, just cut 3 sides off and leave the 4th uncut and facing out. Do they call it a D style? Love that I'm not the only one wearing 3 layers of clothes. Brrr! I'm not quite acclimated to the season change yet. Take care Sandy of the Wild Frontier!
My suggestion is that you cut the beam on the top and bottom so they are flat and then leave the sides round to give you the best of both. Flat sides to work with and natural log look on front and back.
It’s coming along Sandy! Looking forward to seeing more progress. I tried a box of rippers, I found them really good but not forgiving when comes to metal. I bought a box of Woodmizer double hard this summer on sale free shipping. Cheapest and best blades I’ve ever used so far. Keep up the good work! Take care
Hey Russell! Good to know about the Ripper 37's . I haven't hit metal in a log (yet haha) but I'm sure my day is coming. Only metal I've hit is when I've hit the log stops or log clamps lol. I'll have to try out the Double-hards . Sounds like they work well for ya
Thanks Mark! Hope things are well with you. I like that idea with the pole for the forks. Think that will probably be a good way to get the beam into place
Good afternoon, Sandy. Today is October 19th, and it is a balmy 21C, indian summer. This is going to be an interesting and fun build. I am enjoying the fall colours. Greetings from Peterborough.
Looks good. The idea of having a sawmill is, that you can do things out of the ordinary. You have wish, that the shed should look like it have been made from rough or slightly processed timber. One suggestion is, that you saw the beams on two sides only. On flat side to be placed om the studs, and the upper side is sawn in an angel, that fits with the slope of the roof. - A job for people having a sawmill only. On the beam, you place your rafters. Rafters sawn on two opposite sides only. When you have sawn the two beams having the angel, it will be easy and simple to mount the rafters. - No need for birds mouth etc. Have fun
Howdy Sandy- good to see you sawing again. I’m not getting to do much sawing lately so I watch someone else have all the fun. I’m thinking ( l know that can be dangerous) that you could do two sides adjacent to each other for your beams and do a scarf flat spot where they sit on top of the posts. You would have the natural shape on the bottom and on the inside. I’ve done that before and I thought it looked nice. Enough of my rambling lol. Take care and God bless
I like that scarf joint idea! I haven't done much of them before with beams but I think by the way you describe it it would look real good!Thank you for that
Ahhh, GREAT to see you firing up the mill, Sandy! It's always wonderful to watch you turn trees into sawdust and beautiful lumber. I wish I had your sawmill here, right now. My next door neighbor is... at this moment... having a tree service take down a HUGE oak in her back yard. I'd have taken it and slabbed it... turned it into some nice furniture....
There probably isnlt a portable sawmill big enough to do that on site. Unless of course you have a monster chainsaw mill with an appropriate length of bar.
Hey Carl! I'm with ya on the nice slab wood. If I wasn't so behind on the red pine thinning I'd be taking in free wood from all over just to make the nice looking slabs from them.
@bwillan a year or so ago I took a trip down to a place in Barrie Ontario where they showed me their setup for slabbing 8' and under trees. I was shocked! Although certainly wasn't a portable unit
Do like you did on your “log cabin build” flatten top and bottom and use as much of the log for strength as possible. As for getting it in place, add a temporary gin pole to the posts and use block & tackle to raise it. Tying it off to the post as you jump back and forth, end to end. I’ve done that myself. Use the tractor forks to reach as high as they can and then ropes and tackle for the last little bit. You could also fabricate a crane boom for your loader or maybe the log trailer might reach that high.
Hey Robert! I like that look with the log sides being left and the flattening of the top and bottom. I'm tossing around ideas still on whether to go full log look or dimensional beam. I like your block and tackle idea. I may also try the gin pole idea but I don't have any experience with that so will be a bit of a trial and error on that if I go that route.
@@sawingwithsandy Sandy… the gin pole is just a vertical extension above where you want to lift something. You just need a point above the final position. Hard to lift above your point of attachment. I am assuming you will be putting a block on the pole so you don’t accidentally push the beam off while placing it… just make that block extend a couple of feet higher to attach a pulley to run the rope thru. You only need it tall enough to accommodate whatever tackle you plan to use (plus, a little more space as a cushion)… one of your rafters would work. As for the appearance of the shed… the rafters could also be two-sided logs to carry the log look thru the roof area.
If you haven't shot the video of raising the beams for the roof yet, you could laminate them together from thinner boards. If you are going for an 6x8 for example, you could make 3 2x8's and glue and nail them together. This would make each individual member of the beam lighter. Granted, it would me more trips up and down a ladder to secure them in place. Either way, looking forward to seeing how that portion of the Hill Billy Hideout V3 goes.
Always great to see ya here in the comments and thanks for all your support over the years. I like the idea of a laminated beam. I'm not sure what to do yet but I have had success building strong beams by making my own laminated beams before and glueing and sandwiching in plywood for strength.
I put some big beams up on a sawmill shed saved the guy some money he was going to hire a guy with a log loader I told him he didn't need to do that this is how i did it! a one man operation he was their to view it. get a angle iron lets say 3x3 about four or five feet long weld a diamond shape gusset up on the angle about the three foot level this sets on top of the post at the top of the angle weld on a plate that over hangs the Dimond gusset about two inches so if the Dimond plate sticks out three inches the top plate should stick out one inch more put a hole near the end and hook a clevis to it if you have a pulley hoke it to the clevis. take this and secure it on top of one of the middle upright posts and take a ratchet strap and ratchet strap the angle to the top of the post this secures the lifting apparatus to the upright post then get a rope and pass it threw the pulley at the top of the post to the lifting apparatus then get another pulley and secure it to the bottom of your upright post. Bring in your log in to the bottom of the upright post and center it tie the end of the rope that is going threw the lifting apparatus pass the end of the other side of the rope threw the pulley at the bottom of the post and tie it to your tractor then drive away the post will lift up till it sets on the top of the post secure both ends of the log when it is at the top and then pull out the lifting apparatus. the reason for the bottom pulley is that it will prevent your upright post from pulling it over. It would be easier to show you rather than trying to explain it! Happy lifting!
Great job you are doing on this new project! I have an hm130 but I have never tried to mill more than one log at a time, I think I'll try it. Also those new blades you have seem to work very well, where can I buy some?
Hey John! Thanks for coming a long for the videos! Was a great time firing up the sawmill again today after a few weeks off of it. I put some links in the video description for where people often get Ripper 37's. In the US I believe Jerry's Resharp is the place that many get them.
When you open the blade door closest to the T-Handle...do you get a fair amount of sawdust build up under that wheel? I am contemplating drilling a 1 1/2" hole through that flat plate where the sawdust sits.
I do get a good amount of sawdust there for sure. Builds up pretty quickly as well. Probably only a few logs and there's a good pile. Keep me updated if you would about the holes you're thinking of drilling. Could be something I do as well
Hey Brian. That extension to change the oil came that way from Woodland Mills. I have called a hydraulic shop but they want me to bring in the cylinder for an estimate on repair and I also priced out a hydraulic cylinder seal kit for my machine and it's $150 CDN which surprised me a bit
Good question. Usually I cut true to dimension for 4x4's so they are actually 4"x4". For 2x4's I've lately been cutting those at 1.5" x 4" and for 2x6's I've been cutting those at 1.5" x 6" .
I'll try to explain how my brother and I did a similar beam. On the back side of each post screw a 3' or so 2x4 sticking up 12-16 inches past the top of the posts with the top of the 2x4 rounded off, and a strip of wood on each side going 6" or so higher than the rounded top of the 2x4. Then all we did is screw an eyebolt in each end of the beam right where it will sit over the center of the post. Tie a rope to each eyebolt, and put it over the rounded 2x4. If you do it by yourself, you will need a tie off spot for each rope, but with 2 people, you just pull down on the rope, and the beam goes up and the 2x4 keeps it from falling off. I put a screw through each 2x4 into the beam to hold it until fully secured, then just pulled the 2x4's off and the beam was set. Hope this helps.
@@sawingwithsandy I really hope it helps, but it worked for us and is almost too simple. We tried to pull them up with the same setup using a tractor, and it tried to pull the post over more the higher we went. Straight down and straight up, so all of the force is going down, but if you have the stuff we didn't like pulleys lying around then that might work better.
That's a good point for me to remember about the straight up pull otherwise I may end up pulling the posts over like you mentioned. Thanks again! I appreciate it
