Using the "Blind Marker" and the "Mark-N-Guard" Myron Ferguson shows how fool proof it is to cut out the electrical box after the drywall is hung. The "Mark-N-Guard" may be purchased through:www.thatdrywallguy.com/ferguso...
I still have your book in my tools often go back to it must be 15 years now still work in the trade thank for sharing your knowledge with great respect
Thanks for the tips. While working on a small project I only needed to mark one electrical box. I took four finish nails and glued them to the corners of the box and the next day marked and cut out the drywall. Worked great, just a bit of trimming to get the drywall to fit around the box.
As I've stated on other videos, had I placed electrical boxes so that there was 1/2 to 5/8 inch from the paint surface to the box, I'd have been out looking for another employer. Every contractor I worked for required the box to be flush with the paintable side of the drywall. Much more challenging to cut holes under such circumstances, given that walls are rarely plu mb, or ceilings perfectly level.
Thanks for the video. All of your methods look good. I like the mark guard best. I will be hanging drywall soon and I was wondering how to get tight holes around the electrical boxes. Your methods should simplify that problem.
I wish I had takin the time before to search for your video, what a mess this easy job can be when you measure it all and cut it prior to hanging! THANKS! p.s. Hope you start filming in 1080p.
What if you did not hang your outlet boxes flush with the studs because you are using 1/2 thick drywall? How would you hang the drywall, then cut the holes?
Crap, I did apartment upgrade stuff for 15 years or so and I knew about the drywall router idea but I could never get it to work. I kept cutting through the boxes. I never realized you wee supposed to use a special bit. I'm not sure I'm ever going to hang another piece of drywall but if I do I will get the special bit. thanks
I liked the last two tricks. My method is simple: I apply hand lotion on the perimeter of the electric box, press the drywall against it and cut the hole before I hang the drywall. It always works and never had a goof.
@Andrew Griffin It is not a mess. It is what I use in rich people's houses and never had a complaint. I just remodeled a basement for a doctor this summer and that is how I cut the boxes for all the outlets.
Thank you Myron, this was very helpful. I greatly appreciate you sharing your expertise. I do have one question. Is the router passing along the outside of the box, or is it running along the inside of the box? Thank you again!
Generally you have two people doing (commercial) drywall. One guys screws the board off while another is cutting the board. I've found that if you pull an "over" mark and an "up" mark you have your center. Mark the center on your board PRIOR to hanging. NOW DRAW A LARGE CIRCLE (about a 12 inch) Around your "center" crosshairs. Why? Because when you hang the board this circle will tell the guy screwing off that's theres a box there so he won't screw close to the box. If he does screw close, which happens too damn often with just crosshairs, he'll end up "blowing out" the box (fracturing the sheetrock) which will have to be patched just as if you had miss cut it. A further advantage of drawing the circle is to make them easily identifiable. You can keep hanging and go back down the road to cut out multiple boxes IF YOU CAN FIND THEM EASILY.... so put a circle around those tiny crosshairs.
Mr. Ferguson. I’ve used the Mark n guard kit myself, and it didn’t turn out like yours did. Granted. I used mine when I was using my rotozip through my, wood paneling on top of my new drywall. I used one of the outlet boxes where you have to, use a screw driver opposite corners to tighten against back of drywall, bc their was no stud to use the typical dual nail outlet box like you have. I have the typical for my man cave that I’m doing now, so I’m hoping that, these will make it way easier, quicker and without having to fix/repair or having to pay a higher price for a larger outlet cover which barley covered it. But I’m good enough to where no one can tell, and I’m not tearing the paneling down to redo it.
I am not sure what you mean by extenders or adaptors but I would guess that cutting would not be any different. The drywall would still be hung one layer at a time. If the adaptor is sticking out more than a half inch then there will be more pressure against the drywall which can lead to a blow out of the drywall while cutting. This can be avoided by pulling the drywall away a little to alleviant the pressure.
Mr Ferguson, I have a shop that I built awhile back.... I have all my outlets and swithches installed...... How can I cut the holes without pulling the fixtures ? fustrated DIY rookie.....Thanks Bill
The outlets and especially the switches will hold the drywall too far out for the router bit to do its job. So you will have to measure and precut around the protruding outlet and switch before attaching the drywall. Once tacked in place you can use the router to finish the cut around the outside of the box. Keep in mind that often the box will set back from the drywall face so it will be difficult to attach the covers. You may end up having to shim out the outlets and switches to make them flush.
Cool video but never had much trouble just measuring, cutting, and hanging. I guess us old farts just didn't have the new fangled stuff guys have today. Old school always worked fine.
No but the power should be turned off. I like to pre-cut the boxes but not to the full dimension. Try and cut so that the outlet or switch is exposed. This will help the drywall fit tighter to the electrical box. Now use the router to cut along the outside of the box or you can use a drywall utility saw to make the cut.
nice tool but what do you do when you are hanging the sheet rock and your switches are still in the box. This is my problem. Your showing new constructions mine is old constructions
Measurements are only as accurate as the corners are square! Therefore scribing is best method, and the simplest thing to do is to put screws In electrical boxes at top and bottom and then press sheetrock against it and boom!
Thank you Myron. I am enjoying your book now. I have never used a drywall router. Since drywall is only 1/2 inch thick, seems like your bit is too long. Were you holding the router off the wall some to prevent nicking the wires? Would it make sense to shorten the bit? Again, I never used one. Also, does it matter if you cut counter-clockwise? Does the bit cut better in that direction?
I always have the bit out more than a half inch. There is a guide tip on the end that does not cut. Plus I have it out a little extra so the bit will still cut easily even if I do pull the router away a little. Counter Clockwise is better because the tool is easier to hold tight against the electrical box because the bit is spinning clockwise. IF you moved the router in a clockwise direction it would be harder to control.
The easiest method is when you just mark the ground and measure up. Just plunge into the center of the box go to the side jump over and then cut out around. One thing that should be mentioned it when you install electrical boxes have to keep them a half inch away from the stud sticking out from the wall otherwise it doesn’t work
I had a monkey who did that into a recessed ceiling light box. He cut 2 wires and didn’t say anything about it. Yes, the wires were SAFELY tucked into it. Lots of bad work besides the wires. The whole crew was fired.
Are you aware that the manufacturer of the Mark n Guard product posted a shortened clip from this on their page? I hope they're paying you for your work!
When you start at the center of where the box is located and start moving the router toward the edge of the drywall, how do you know when you reached the outer edge of the electrical box
The guide tip of the router bit will not cut into the box so it just stops. Next just jump the bit over about 1/4" or less and start cutting around in a counter clockwise direction.
actually he's probably not dumb at all... just inexperienced and trying to learn something good on him for asking questions to learn more about something he doesn't understand. no shame in that
sheetrock people don't care. they use a 3" rotozip to cut 1/2" sheetrock . They stick 3" in the middle of the box and work to the edge. How are you not going to cut wires. You can only push in the wires so much. Take the freaking time and measure and adjust the rotozip maybe 3/4". plunge in at inside corner and then work outward instead of middle.
Just take your router and cut up to the edge, jump over the edge with router and simply trace box on outside edge with router counter clockwise. Yeah right. This is such bull$hit! Unless you practice or are a natural router operator you will f it up. My experience saw the router start off into never never land on its own. Really messed things up. “There you have it a perfectly cut outlet! “ Don’t believe him...it’s not easy! Measure carefully and cut hole while rock is off the wall. Or use chalk on outlet, press board up to chalked outlet see Mark on back, use that to locate your lines to draw & cut.
Seriously, it's not that hard to mediate it cut it and put it up. Save UR self from buying all that shit. And tools. If u can't measure something this simple then I think u should find another job. Lol By the way u talk way too much for something is too simple to do. It's just the A B C project.
+kevin vo Don't know if you're in the trades or not and if so how long you have been... I believe Myron is showing you different options that can simply make you more productive and not suggesting this is the only way... You can use a hand saw to cut your lumber, but I don't think you'd be as productive as the guy using a power saw... And I guarantee the guy using the Blind Mark will double your speed when you're using the measure/cut/hang method.. I say this from experience...
