Not just going to stop the barrel from collapsing, I would have thought it would reduce the stress on your dust extractor's motor, too, if it became blocked somehow. Great idea for the DIY version of the valve!
A blocked hose doesn't create stress on the motor - it actually reduces the load on it since the load comes from the air it's pushing around. The pitch of the motor rises because it's able to spin faster with less load on it. There is a risk of it overheating though, since a lot of motors use the air they're moving to provide their own cooling, so this is probably better for the health of the motor.
Nice job Matt....from experience I would suggest using a nyloc or locking two nuts together on your pressure valve. I made something similar and found that after a few months, the nut walked itself loose and the valve mechanism shot through the pipe into the bowels of my extractor!
Neat idea with the home-made pressure relief valve. Seems to work effectively. I built my own using a cheap aliexpress/Banggood cyclone and a 25kg glass fibre resin drum. The cyclone didn’t come with a sealant ring so I just used silicone sealant around the cyclone to ensure it sealed properly. The drum does pull inwards a touch when you first start the vacuum, but as it fills up it stops doing that. Amazed by how well it works for such a cheap unit, there’s literally nothing in the vac and all the dust and shavings end up in the drum.
Another interesting video Matt. The home made pressure relief valve is top notch! I also have a record power extractor and bought their Interceptor lid (£19 from Westcountry4wood) and which fits a regular plastic dust bin and some of that foam you used for the relief valve glued around the lid to form a gasket, it works perfectly. With the planer thicknesser I regularly fill the bin, but the extractor is virtually dust free!
I hate drilling through thin metal with a hole saw Matt. Just a pain and fraught with things that can go wrong as you demonstrated, plus the moment the hole saw cuts through and bites…. I swopped my plastic barrel for a metal one like you had because it was a pain and kept collapsing and got a hole in it, due to the number of times it collapsed. The metal one was great, no collapsing even without pressure relief valve. Unless you are using a planner / thicknesser I found 28 litres to be a great size for separation. But it is what works for you! Keith’s video is worth a watch, definitely 😁
@@Badgerworkshop definitely not Matt. For smaller holes the step or cone drills bits depending on which side of the Atlantic you live are really east to drill thin metal with 👍🏻
Very timely as I'm looking to upgrade my dust collection. Looks ideal and I was wondering how that CTS cyclone worked. I think their products are top notch
Curious to see what results you had. With my camvac, I found that with one motor on, wasn't strong enough, and with both motors on it was too powerful and half the dust when into the vac itself.
I've heard that using pressure relief valve is not a good solution, for when it is opened the extracted dust goes straight into the shopvac. I'm not sure why would it do that, and most certainly never trued such valves before, but that's what I've read. If you did try it in action with real sawdust did you experience anything like this? Or this is just fake news? :)
Not fake news. The air that enters via the relief valve must flow up out of the barrel and picks up the dust that is trying to fall down and blows it back out. The root cause of the excessive pressure (vacuum, actually) in the barrel is the too-small hoses and piping, and the fact it is corrugated makes the problem worse. Use shorter lengths of a larger-diameter hose (like 4 inches) for the best results. -Old dude
