I gotta say, I LOVE your videos. I love building and making stuff instead of just buying it. I will definitely be doing a few of your DIY progects very soon! Keep up the good work man!
that is awesome stuff man... you make it look so easy... i would drive my wife nuts camoflauging stuff around the house like that.. i love how you did the light switch panel,and the picture frame, that is cool... definately gonna have to look this stuff up..
Freaking awesome man! I never knew it was possible to do something like this myself. Thanks a bunch for sharing the info. Great clear demonstration too. This got my pulse going, man. I cannot wait to try it.
Thank you for this video... your the only one that actually gave a good view of you dipping multiple shaped items (im surprised how the stock turned out)... thanks
AWESOME -- Thanks for sharing!! You made it look very easy. If I made the only way it would have been any better would have been to show all of the completed products dry and put together. Keep up the Great Work and Videos
I'm really looking at getting into this using a decorating station and a paint booth to clear coat everything. It seems like a very low overhead thing to get into. Then I want to get a printer/cutter and do graphics and signs/banners as well. The beauty of both of these things is they are such low overhead....nice vid thanks for sparking my interest even more
The process is incredible durable. The film, paint, and clear coats all have UV inhibitor. Also, the clear coat cures, or hardens over time to provide protection from the elements.
I use to do this 30 years ago, just get a bowl of water & slowly pour multy colours of oil based paint on the water (oil floats on water) then just dip whatever as shown, use to get some cool psychedelic paint jobs & camo jobs.
@btrules it's the same exact stuff that the professionals use...if you have a gun or bow that's camo, odds are it was hydrographed. once you let the dip dry, then you clear coat it...it's not bullet proof lol, but it holds up awesome.
@robbie8600 I would recommend that you dip the stock in 2 parts...that will ensure good coverage. Mask off one half of the stock (right down the middle) then dip that side and let it dry, then mask of the area that you just dipped (make sure it's dry- i would let it sit overnight) and then dip that side. If you run into spots, use a magic marker or airbrush to blend it all in- if you mask off and re-dip spots, it will look jacked up, the marker and/or airbrush blend it a lot better.
This is completely cool as cucumbers. I happened across this video...and the rest WILL be history. HAHAHA! I'm not going to have a damn thing left that isn't camo'ed. Thanks for posting this. I actually held my breath when you dipped that stock. LOL
After watching your video and a whack of other videos on the process of hydro dipping, I came to the conclusion I NEED this stuff in a bad way! I went and ordered a whack of different patterns and a gallon of activator. Obviously you've got the dipping process down pat and do an amazing job at it, so any little nuggets of wisdom or caution you can share with us? I am so looking forward to getting my supplies. I can see this will be very addictive! So cool! Thanks for sharing the info and video!
hey does it has to be like cold or hot in the room? I heard that there has to be some kind of temperature and air specification to store the film and make that hydrography is that true?
@retroxb I'm not into dipping yet, but i did read a lot about it, so it could be several things that can go wrong like: to cold water, not enough activator, or even the wrong side of the film on the water. Just ad a little water on both sides on a corner of the film. the side that is getting sticky is the side that should contact the water, so face down while the other dry side is the side where you spray the activator on.
That was a very thorough demonstration, nice job. I have a question, you said you can paint the base coat any color, can any paint and primer be used, for instance Rust-oleum enamel based paint? Thanks
In reality you want to use a "quality" base coat clear coat. Like an automotive paint. If it's just for you, yes, you can use it. It will eventually lift/peel. You have to start somewhere though.
Just to be clear, this is the exact same film that professional shops use, just in a DIY kit. There is also a can of satin clear coat that comes in the kit to finish your dipped item. Thanks for the vid!
if you buy all the items needed seperately it is about 40 dollars cheaper. In actual hydro graphic film and activator, maybe $15.00. Green scrub pad - $ 0.50 220 grit sand paper (plastic parts) - $ 0.25 Quality auto adhesion promoter (Spray Can) - $ 6.70 Quality Primer (Spray Can) $ 5.50 Quality Flat Tan base color (Spray Can) - $ 7.50 Quality Satin Clear Coat (Spray Can) - $ 8.00 8oz can spray activator - $18.00 Painters tape - $ 2.00 Walmart 18"x12"x10" plastic tub - $10.00
Oh i totally get it...there is a very easy explaination for all this ;-)...make a bunch, take them to the pro shop, and ask for a trade lol...i got a BUNCH of stuff from a local pro shop as a trade
@phantomshooter01 if you're throwing your stock in a wood chipper, yes it will chip and crack...the film is tough stuff, you need to protect it with clear coat...as with anything, it's not indestructible, but its not a coating of flower petals either lol
WOW!!!! This product is awsome !!!!! always wondered how they did it ,now i know. I want to order this but i hope they can ship it to Cyprus . I got 5 guns that need doing .(including an antique shotgun tha belongs to my dad :0) ). Great vid bro . ( my mind is now like ok so what else can i camo now aahhhhhh!!!!!!!
@trippledigitss lol thanks man, I am really surprised that there were no instructions...in a nutshell, you dip the item (make sure the water is WARM..a lot of guys are having this problem, the water is too cold and the film just melts away) after you dip the piece, you want to immediately wash the slime off. after all the slime is gone you let the piece air dry (i would say overnight) then you clear coat it. Make sure you do a few test runs first...get comfortable with the process..good luck!
Me too, I need to get a thermometer in my pool haha I just jump in and either freeze or freeze most of the time until I get used to the temperature. XD That's why I don't think my pool reaches 70-75F though it does depend on where you live, could reach warmer temps there :P
Great Video , one question please , what is the durability after the clear coat , you had this item for a few weeks , do they scuff up easy or if you take care of them will look good for a long time . Regards Tony
What don't know why people are taking time to leave douche bag comments. Thank you for taking time to post this. Gave me some idea on what is involved.
looks great dude! I am thinking about it but have a paintball gun with piccatinni rails.... how does that work? will the rails have any goopy stuff in the little corners? Is it resistant to scratches? We play hard and the guns get a little worked sometimes....
Great vid! i wonder if you did the rest of the gun at 06:58? i also wonder if the coat is durable for wear and tear? How well have the coat lasted on the gun you coated? /blue from Sweden.
@S0C0MIII you can do metal, but you need to get a self-etching primer...i would suggest calling the manufacturer and get a recommendation on a specific brand.
@UltmtSniper it's the same exact stuff that the professionals use...if you have a gun or bow that's camo, odds are it was hydrographed. once you let the dip dry, then you clear coat it...it's not bullet proof lol, but it holds up awesome. bowhunter4e 3 months ago
So... Could you send me some of that in the mail??? haha... I wanna camoflauge my dog! That would b sooo... funny. I loved that website for the zebra print! Thanks for being so AWESOME!
@prolificglass I think it's just the water. I'm guessing if there were air bubbles the lack of water contact causes problems with the change from film to liquid paint rather than leaving visual anomalies in the camo.
Nice job, couple questions though. What are some common mistakes that rookies end up making and how do you fix mistakes, like wrinkles? Also, how do you get "some" of the background color to show through?
I think I would find it difficult to run out of stuff to dip. In fact I am going to start my own shop so that I am going to always have plenty of suplies to do my own stuff as well because this seems so awesome that I just can not pass.
