Yo Yo hopefully this helped you out! If you have any questions leave a comment and i will try to help you out! Please Like and Subscribe! Check out my Instagrams: @alden_build @aldenmassey
no problem that was the goal! Everyone else beats around the bush and teases ya! haha i had to piece together about 80 videos and forums 💀 have fun man👍🏻
I cant thank you enough mister. I fortunately bought one from 97 i believe but I still had a Huge air leak coming from somewhere which ended up being a bad iacv/throttle body. Thanks again!
@@bonecrushereye I actually ended up getting an Edelbrock performer x intake manifold and a skunk2 alpha, throttle body, which is 70mm from the junkyard!!!!! Was worth the $80
Not gonna lie I thought that for a second when I first was researching how to do this swap lol. I found myself a 96-98 auto y8 intake about to do the thang. My d16 runs really good but needs a lil something extra I can't wait to see how she rips
@@AldenBuild thanks for your teachings in the video I got all my hoses, pcv, gaskets and y8 throttle lever spring thingyI also have a fuel rail from a y8 and I'm looking for a z6 head for VTEC that I want to port and polish myself but I'm still researching if I'll need a z6 ecu and exactly how to wire in the VTEC solenoid and if it will all be worth it. I just don't want to ruin a perfectly good engine by creating a bunch of chaos with a mini Frankenstein build. I feel like a little more top end will be a lot more fun though and I just like the satisfaction of tinkering with the car to make something different.
I did this exact swap with the 96-98 Auto Intake and throttle body. At first I had my MAP and TPS sensors switched which lead to it not wanting to start, I swapped those and fixed it but I still have an idle that revs from 1000-2500 or higher, it just goes up and down. Not sure what is leaking but I do not see anything leaking, I felt all around. I used a new intake manifold gasket as well. I had allot of air in the coolant system so I am going to bleed that tomorrow.
I’m assuming it doesn’t have the air injection holes like on mine. The idle issues i had, which sound very similar to yours, was when i had the 2 sensors swapped and the air injection holes. Any check engine lights?
@@AldenBuild I fixed it, no check engines lights. Before bleeding the coolant I watched EricTheCarGuys video on Honda idle problems. Turns out when I was cleaning my IACV it somehow got stuck. His solution in the video was to "Hit it with a hammer." So while the car was running I gave her some love taps with old faithful and sure enough she idles perfectly now!
On my 99 DX Hatch I used a 98 Auto EX intake. I kept the original Y7 throttle body with new gasket (recommended in many other video's and write ups), just swapped the throttle wheel assembly from the Y8 throttle body to the Y7 so the throttle cable lines up good. Also got a Y8 throttle cable. You need to keep the original Y7 injectors. Got some new hoses (some factory Y8 hoses and some generic) and everything hooked right up. Only the purge valve assembly (the 'Denso' thingy in your video) has to be tucked in below the throttle body and tied down with some zipties. Everything works great. No idle issues at all.
If you put the Y8 in-take and head on a y7 automatic Civic? Can the automatic transmission handle VTEC. Another dreamswap would be my 98 LX k24 CVT AWD swap for a winter prepped daily. I have a K24 CVT AWD CRV and a 98 Civic LX. So I can build the ultimate daily Civic or just pimp out my CRV. If I had more mechanically inclined friends I would build the Civic and use my CRV as a parts car.
I must say this video is a big help when it comes to swapping out the manifolds but what has me stumped is that I thought manual Hondas had the 2 wire iac valve and u have to convert it from 3 to 2 wires when doing a different swap or is it different all together? But when I can finally get my 00 hatchback to finally start I’ll remember to use this video as reference
So you’re right if you’re putting a manual intake on a manual y7. I put the automatic y8 manifold on a manual y7 because the iac and wires are the same as y7 manual. So i didn’t have to do any wiring. I recommend finding a AUTOMATIC Y8 Manifold and it’ll be much easier, almost direct swap. Keep in mind, i had a 99-00 manifold so it had the cold start assist holes that i plugged with jb weld in the video! Good luck, make it rip!
@@AldenBuild yeah I have the automatic y8 intake that I pulled from a 99 ex civic along with the vtec head that it was bolted to now I just need to find an auto ecu that has vtec with both cabin and wiring harness so I have the vtec working.
ayy mini me swap in action, love to see it! depending on what ecu you get you should be able to keep y7 harnesses and just wire in vtec👌🏻 good luck man, hit me up on instagram when you finish it! @alden_build
@@AldenBuild I mean I also have a manual tranny that was built with short gears along with a manual cluster all I’m missing is the correct ecu that would work for it along with needing the pedal cluster shifter/shift linkage and a few other parts I can’t find and I don’t trust eBay these days.
Bro I need your help, I'm getting massive vacuum leak and not sure why. I got pretty much same setup as yours, the only thing different is I'm able to find a 96-98 automatic manifold that didn't have to air injection ports that you had to block off with JB weld. Any idea where it might be leaking from?
Best i could give ya without lookin at it, is make sure everything on the manifold is plugged up. Check back right for a baby cruise control opening. Feel around for air. Hit me up on instagram if you need, @alden_build
You know anything about the Skunk 2 y8 instake that's for sale everywhere? For the 96-00. I assume you could get one of them and do the swap just like this but not positive. Not sure if they have better flow or if you can get an auto one and have an easier time converting stuff.
From what i remember, if you’re swapping that Skunk2 onto y8 then it’s pretty direct swap but onto y7 you gotta convert it to a manual y8 setup when it comes to iac wires and throttle body. Seems like you have a y7 so this y8 auto manifold swap is the easiest swap you can do. And i’ve seen flow test and the y8 manifold seems to be plenty for even high psi boost builds! plus you save A LOT of money doing this. Trust me, it works!😋😈
Bro what throttle body you using ? Im about to do the swap but I have y8 throttle body right now but it dint come with that iacv part like it does on my y7 throttle body. You know that green sensor. I’m so lost
See I did exactly this but my d16 won’t idle right. Wont idle at all now which is weird. Start it up and it will go to 2k then die out. Unplug the sensors on the throttle body and it starts and runs like shit? Idle surge when it warms up too. Idk what’s going on. I cleaned everything too and new seals and gaskets.
pretty much, you’ll need some of hoses and such i mention in the video. If the manifold has the throttle body as well it’s just plug and play. But if you’re getting a blank y8 manifold, you’ll need to swap the throttle rotor in your y7 tb👍🏻
I did this auto y8 manifold because you don’t have to swap anything. Just directly swap y8 auto manifold, and y8 auto throttle body for everything to hook up the same👌🏻
i have a video on my channel about the full exhuast if you want to see it but it’s a DC Sports ex header to an ebay high flow cat to Megan Racing Drift spec 2 3/8 catback. Was the best sounding n/a d16 i ever heard!
honestly don’t waste your time, do a y8 manifold. it’s way worth the money and people have proven you don’t need aftermarket manifold for high boost even
@@AldenBuild okay am asking cause my engine blow up and I had a 1.6 d16y7 engine on the side and I installed it and put on manifold from the original engine witch it was a 1.5 d15b7 and everything worked but the throttle body don't work and want to make sure if I need a different manifold before buying one
if you’re using the same manifold as before it blew, there shouldn’t be a problem since it’s the same setup. Just make sure the throttle rotor where the cable latches to opens the correct direction