Love this video. I have a 2007 Corolla and a 2004 Suzuki gsxr 600. The only reason my Corolla is cheaper is because I use premium in my bike. And at that it’s maybe 10$ more every 1000 miles to ride my bike, and it’s a supersport.
Great vid! I have a ‘98 VFR 800 with 71k. Can’t quit her. Steel braided lines and suspension were best mods, followed by Corbin saddle, TBR full exhaust and Power Commander. Changed the R/R and fuel pump as well. Clutch went at about 62k. Nice to see another VFR well ridden. Love those tires too . Maintenance is the key to life, in machines, bodies, and relationships. Stay safe!
Right there with you. 150 miles a day in California. Temecula to San Diego. ‘12 Vstrom 650. 82k miles my next upgrade is going to be a shaft drive bike. Nice video
Sweet. I see a lot of those. Murrieta to orange county myself. I went to a scottoiler a year ago and love it. I owe them and update video. Chain maintenance is now just a simple adjustment on the Scott oiler to compensate for temperature effects on the viscosity of the chain oil.
Running a front tire until the belt comes through the tread? Hit an unexpected puddle leaning into a turn and that bald tire can hydroplane and skate sideways. If you're lucky you'll only have to change your shorts (just throw them away, you'll never get that stain out). Tires are cheap compared to broken bones and a totaled bike.
Never said I recommended it. The real recommendation would be to change a 2/32nds. BUT Where I live, the weather is very predictable. I wont see rain for 6 months over summer. And as explained, I am checking the tire every time I get off the bike, with a tire on hand and I change it on the spot. It would complicate things if I was not performing the work myself. THIS DEFINITELY WONT WORK FOR 99% OF PEOPLE BUT To your point, as soon as our rain season hits, the night before the first rain, I put a brand new set on. I stretch those through one rainy season. What these tires can do brand new in the rain is shocking. I ride some of the most dangerous freeways in the US in the rain... 130 miles a day, and manage to keep it shiny side up. Every day. For years. But I wouldnt try it once on a bald tire, I have some unfortunate experience in the bald tire/hydroplane area driving a customer car. I would take the bike with new road 4's over a car with under 2/32'nds, or even 4/32'nds any day. And honestly people, if you have a car or truck, drive that in the rain. I dont ride in the rain for fun, it is all business. Commute time on bike: 1 hour 15 minutes. Commute time in my Hummer or Jeep: 2.5 hours. Lane splitting is legal in California, and Express lanes are free for motorcycles but up to $15 each way for cars on the 91 freeway. Car commuting for me is too unpredictable so I would have to always be very early to everything in case traffic hits (and it typically does) too expensive, and simply way to time consuming... A bike fixes those with a substantial amount of risk and less isolation from the elements. My video was not intended to give you recommendations on how to stay safe. Hope this clarifies.
@@paulkelley86 I hear what you're saying, but the risk/reward calculation would still have me changing out the tires at 1/8" I live in California too and yes, it doesn't rain for months on end, but I've hit water from lawn sprinklers spraying into the street in mid-July. My first crash was when I hit a wet spot at the driveway of a coin operated car wash. Milking that last $10.00 worth of tread life just isn't worth it to me. Take care out there my friend. I've been riding for 40+ years and I've seen the cager risk to us increase exponentially. Just yesterday some idiot cager nearly sideswiped me changing lanes while talking on her cell phone. I ride a big BMW 1600gtl with a big fairing and lots of surface area to see, but she wasn't paying attention. Keep it shiny side up!
@@steverandall5814 I just had to run to an appointment on my bike and was thinking about it.... I want to make a follow up video that is a little more geared toward the typical person. I changed over to a scottoiler and I am having good results. I think a new vid that explains the tire situation better would be good. I would hate to mislead someone into thinking they should run them that low and not understand the risk. What area of CA are you in?
@@paulkelley86 Also worth remembering that when the tyres are anywhere near that low then the risk of a blowout is greatly increased. I think the stats are that 90% of blowouts occur in the last 10% of tread. Other than that great video my friend, greetings from the UK!
DONT TRY THIS AT HOME! Running a tyre down to the threads..it could explode at eighty on the motorway. Not good. I'm amazed you haven't fitted a Scott Oiler. They're fab!
Thanks dude, I am doing similar things with my bandit 600, currently at 74k kilometers. I really enjoyed your video, big thumbs up. I was wondering if you could do an update on your current bike talking about the same stuff, maybe even add some info about the Scott oiler you mentioned in the comments below etc. Cheers.
Your chain and sprocket set should last 30k miles. The set needs to be changed as a set since a worn sprocket destroy the chain fast. Using a tire till the cord shows is just plain stupid. The vfr is a good choice for a commuter but the gas mileage is not that great. Vstrom or versys May be a cheaper bike to run as the mpg and tire life are better.
Yeah I missed this comment but you are right. The tire thing is unique to me, I keep tires at home and at work and do them myself so I push it more than I should, and I definitely don't recommend for the typical consumer. Plus southern California is extremely predictable. If anything, tires are the most important at least from a safety standpoint. You are probably right on the other bikes, I just have a thing for the Honda stuff and the Hondas that may be cheaper are either to bulky or too weak. More than anything this bike allows me to cut my commute time in half so the small amount of savings to go to a different bike wouldn't be worth it to me. Check out my new one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y5L9vIG5SvY.html
What about air filters? I've seen some bikes they're almost $100 for the filter. What about rotors? What kind of insurance coverage do you have? I'm currently paying nearly $3000 yearly for full coverage on a car, but with all these extra things to replace, (sprockets and chains) taking my car 100k would be cheaper. I also don't think I could get near that mileage on the tires, as I drive 10 miles to work and I wouldn't let the belt show.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention the air filter. I go K&N then just clean it every 30k properly. I have not changed rotors, never needed to. I checked the thickness a few times but they did not really wear much. I run straight liability for under $20 per month. If I wreck it, and I have, it has been another drivers fault except once when I ate it crossing a flooded road. If someone else is at fault as shown in the police report, their insurance pays. If it is my fault I just take the hit. I would not recommend this on a nice/new/expensive bike! For a $2,000 to $3,000 I take my chances.
Holy hell 140 miles a day, I would just move closer to work or switch job ls if either was a option but anyway this was an excellent video and should be (monetized) because this shows how to get everything down to a science, like a motorcycle pittman for a race team...
A Kardan shaft avoids all of those annoying chain/sprocket costs and aggravations. That means Honda GL, PC, ST or Deauville. I loved my 1982 GL-500I Silver Wing Interstate, but the 650 is probably better. Why did Honda ever stop making them so quickly?
I have 99 VFR with only 18K miles on it - I agree these are very reliable bikes. How often do you change your brake fluid? It's wet here in the midwest and I've started to have trouble with the (pretty complex) linked brakes that Honda used back then. I believe brake fluid supposed to be changed every 24 months in these?
Honest answer, I don't change it unless I have an issue. I agree a recommend interval would be smart, it's cheap etc. May be good to do the clutch fluid at the same time since they are both dot3. 20 years and 120k miles and it did not give me a problem, not to say the moisture absorbed by the pretty well sealed system may not have begun causing corrosion on the bottoms of the master cylinder and caliper bores... but i had no brake fade or seal leakage. Don't use me as a reason not to do the maintenance, just as a reference for how long it could potentially last without fluid change. Generally in automotive i see it called out around 3-5 years, or more precisely you could use a dip strip that detects copper which has a proportional relationship to moisture and change it when it actually has measurable evidence of needing replacement. To me, that is the better way, since there are a lot of variables like you said, i am in socal, bike garaged, doesn't get rained on unless I'm riding it etc. Now all the RU-vid experts can weigh in on how ignorant/stupid I am 🤦♂️ As for the linked issue, I belive I had done the block off front rear link eliminate on that bike. The 02 I am riding now still has it and no issue. Not sure what the common failure is on the system.
I have been riding for 30 years. I would be much more concerned about being smashed by a bad driver than the cost of maintenance. I don't lane split and give cars a wide birth.
Yeah that's a good point, but I dont ride this for fun, its all business. I do have some other bikes I ride for pleasure and treat those quite different, also I grew up in upstate NY and never lane split, but I bet you would change your stance if you tried to get around southern California. Even to get into the Canyons and country roads you typically have to work your way through gridlock.
@@paulkelley86 If traffic is not moving at all I might. I left Commiefornia years ago and do not plan on returning ever. The fantastic weather and tech jobs kept me there for 15 years. Commuting on a bike is statistically too dangerous for me. I have supernatural luck but even my luck could run out if I push it every day.
@@needparalegal I beyond respect that position. It's only gotten more commie every day, I came 10 years ago haha. During the initial covid lockdown, practically no cars on the freeways! It was amazing, like nothing I have ever seen. Where did you go, and do you like it better?
I use pirelli angels. So far 6 k on rear tire and should have 1 k left. This on my bmw r1100s. Front should be good for 10k. Tires are good when aggressive in turns right up to edge. Best wearing street tire I ever used so far.
Hey again Paul, I have 40k miles on my original chain and sprockets on 07 FZ6. DID option looks to be about $175, but there are others for around $50 that appear to be very similar. I don’t really want to spend 4 to 5 times more for this but based on your experience what do you think?
Did are good but I found EK X ring to last even longer with its crazy o-rings. Stays lubed longer. And I was paying $130. Although I changed over to using a Scott oiler a couple years ago and am still on the same chain so that may be my new recommendation. I plan to do an update video.
I have, the lock cylinders were a little and they popped open if overstuffed but changing the lock cylinders fixed it. I have also been down on them so they may be a little twisted. They are good cases. My e360 top case has way over 100k and no problems
I ride a 82 suzuki 750 every day .and all I can say if you keep your chain oils weekly..i never had to buy sprockets and got 110000on the bike..got to keep that lube up ..i look at that chain in horror
Yeah, if I leave home, go to work, and come straight back that is 140 miles so when I oil it weekly that is still potentially 700 miles. Sometimes I work even further away or have to go other places and often see 1000 miles in a week so once a week is not often enough. I do lube it more than once per week but riding that many miles in the rain tears it up. It is what it is. Cool to hear about your long lasting sprockets though.
@@paulkelley86 some times I pump grease on it too...then some times clean with sea foam and wire brush it ....its all about riding for me ..i got woman in 3 county's round and a bed roll.. what the hell would I go to work for
Nah they are all a little big for my taste. I need to keep it small since I spend so much time splitting lanes (California) and dodging distracted drivers. I installed a scottoiler which has been a game changer for chain maintenance. I have been meaning to do an updated video on my newer vfr I have put 40k on so far.
@@paulkelley86 The Honda NT Deauville should be similar to the VFR in size, though less powerful. However, I don't think it is very popular in the US. The Pacific Coast is, of course, a legendary and still much sought-after commuter, and the 1983 GL-650I Silver Wing Interstate is a lovely classic. They all run forever.
I scooped up an 02 with 3k miles wrecked. Kind of like hitting the reset button. Got 40k on it already. Miles have slowed some with covid. Sold the 99 with about 130k on it still running fine.
I've got a honda hornet 600s 2003, I'm going to need to change the chain & sprockets soon but I don't know what a good make is? There's so many to choose from.
Figure the bike manufacturers don't make chains. They use DID or a high quality brand. Sunstar are good sprockets. Generally made in Japan and US will be good.
How often do you lube the chain? I do mine about every 2 to 3 tank fulls. I think my chain is getting there at 16K but there's a lot of me riding around town and having fun.
I was doing it once a week... but some weeks that is 800 miles or more. I have recently went with a scottoiler so I will do an update that. No more lubing the chain for me!
I was sitting at a restaurant with my bike parked outside and I saw the wires peaking out of the rubber like that and I freaked. Changed the tires that day. But. You do good. Lots of highway?
@@paulkelley86 What is your recommendation regarding valve inspection? How often you had to adjust them and how often you were checking the clearances?
@@st3fan0s I did it at 30k, in spec. Did it at 60k in spec and no different than 30. Never bothered to do it again. Checking isn't that difficult but to adjust them will be a lot of work. Another bike I have has valves that tend to tighten up and eventually be held open but i just pay attention to how it starts and runs now. This will not be a popular opinion but it is working great for me to run bikes till 100k+, sell them, and buy another. If any of my bikes being street ridden needed a valve adjustment (actually needed it, like it was out of spec) I would change my mind. So far 0. By all means check it but dont underestimate the difference in labor when checking vs. Pulling the cams and shimming for adjustment.
Shit I got a Hyundai Accent and all I ever do is put tires and belts on it! It has 200k on it now and ain’t cost nothing! It’s as cheap as my motorcycle to drive! I gave $2k cash for it and have done over a 100k miles!
Pretty good. If traffic wasn't so bad in California I would go that route too. But here a motorcycle offers lane splitting, carpool lanes by yourself, and free express lanes 3+
Yeah on all of my bikes I do the first several and have always noticed they tighten up a bit but still in spec. If not ridden hard it seems they will be on the tighter end but still in spec with 100k. Never adjusted. On my Honda 450 though, adjusted a bunch of times and even changed from titanium to stainless to get longer intervals between adjustment.
I checked valves a few times, then I got a feel for how much valve seat recession occurs over time and realized the way I ride, on this particular bike, very very little to no change. Valves tighten up toward the camshaft over time. The problem that will occur if they lose clearance is that they will be held open once it reaches or drops below 0.000 But it is a slow decrease from .009" or so. When I checked them around 30k. They were still close to .009. Then at 60k they were closer to 8 but still in spec I made a decision that I wasn't going to bother with it again. If a valve starts to hold open and give me hard starting or worse, valve gets burned, I will deal with it at that point. Now this is going to being out some haters, and the people who know everything. And even the people who know nothing but watch RU-vid videos how to play it safe and maintain everything but I dont care. I dont inspect valve clearance on VFR's anymore. I do on my CRF's because those are always tightening up. Regarding clutch, I don't replace discs as maintenance but when I bought the bike, it would slip slightly under very heavy acceleration. This was at 30k, the bike had clearly been ridden by a novice and the clutch showed as did the wrecked fairings and some other details. I ran that clutch till about 60k when it started slipping a little more. Then I replaced it with EBC friction plates only. Had I run it longer I may have warped or damaged the steels. There is wisdom in replacing the frictions to save cost. But to me, i would do it at the first point of slipping. I have since gotten a newer VFR. Bought with 3,000 miles. Put on 30k so far. 0 clutch issues and I plan to run this clutch to 100k. I don't slip the clutch much, saving wear. Clutch life has more to do with the rider, so no specified mileage will fit everyone. Run it till it starts to slip on heavy acceleration. Or if you rev it up and pop the clutch and go wide open in 3rd or so....it should pull the rpm down indicating clutch holding. If it winds up, the clutch isn't holding it back and it is slipping. I wouldnt do it in first unless you are planning a big 500 pound sport touring power wheel that will probably end badly..... Remember, these bikes are just commuter tools for me. I am not trying to keep them pristine or show off all my service records. I dont care about resale value, my value is in the cost savings day to day. They allow me to work in a high paying area but live in a lower cost area where money goes a lot further. They offer me a predictable and much quicker lane splitting commute time of about 1 hour for 70 miles traveled. They might as well be a 2 wheel toyota Prius.
This is a commuter. Simply a tool to get to and from work in some of the US worst traffic freeways. I have 4 other bikes all with different purposes, MX, dual sport, supermoto, and a 1000cc street bike for canyons. I work in a high paying area and live in a less expensive area 70 miles away, I couldn't afford the other bikes if I lived where I work. SO This cheap transportation allows my lifestyle, splitting lanes and not breaking the bank. Cheap cost, cheap fuel, cheap insurance. It's a tool. I did however let the last 3 minutes of my life pass me by responding to you. Can't get that back. Keep er shiny side up old chap, with your ethos and all.
