Top man Sam, renovated properties for years, but didn't know about these dry rods, they are so much faster and easier to use. Will update at a later date whether they work or not, thanks again.
Hi Sam When filling gaps between the floor boards and the wall with expanding foam, will the foam become a bridge to the floorboards or plaster board in future. Your videos are amazing, I don’t miss any of them in fact I look forward to your videos. You are doing an incredibly amazing job. Regards.
Time Lord hi and give my regards to the Dr, The polyurethane foam is waterproof enough to cope with any ingress it may get where it’s positioned. If it was immersed in water for a long period changes could occur with its make up. For what we use it for I’m confident it will last a lot longer than the guarantee. Glad you like the vids please share them 👍
Hi can you explain to me about the bricks below the dryrods, does the damp come through the lower bricks and is stopped penetrating by the line of the dryrods, if thats the case then the lower line of bricks where the skirting board is will be damp, or am i missing something here ??
You put them in the lowest mortar course to the floor inside and it is recommended by the manufacturers you leave a gap at the bottom on a solid floor around 2-3”. Some then say to apply a liquid DPM to any masonry showing in the gap but iv never had any issues in that area the whole time iv been dampproofing. They also say to coat the back of the skirting with a liquid DPM too.
I have dampness above the skirting on an interior wall. Thinking I should use rods inside and outside. Do the rods need to be inserted at the same level on the outside and inside walls ? The damp course on the exterior wall is about 5 bricks below the interior floor level. I cant get below interior floor level. Advice appreciated, love the videos !
Thanks for the video. Can I plaster over a wall that has the dry zone rod inserted exteriorly. And can the usual wall filler be used before painting over the wall. I have multiple holes on my exterior wall and didn't like how it looks.
Without seeing pictures of the wall and knowing the type of filler it’s hard to comment, plastering over dry rods can leave a small circular grease stain on the plaster surface
recently bought a property that has rising damp in the living room but also has cavity insulation. How deep do you drill with cavity walls and can you still use these rods? Thanks!
Hi the rods can be inserted into wet masonry, you drill 2/3rd if the way into the brick around 20mm off the far edge don’t go through. If it’s a 9” wall drill to 20mm from the far edge
Hi Simon the dry rods needs to be install from both sides of wall ? My damps is main outer wall along half way so need from both side to attack with rods?
i put these rods into the internal 'skin' of a 9" solid 1930 house wall about a month ago. i was expecting the rods to 'melt' as the dampproofing compound spreads thro the mortar joint? they actually still look pretty much unchanged in appearance?
Hi Sam, the line of mortar I need to fit my rods into is crumbling and missing in parts (a very old partition wall which will be cemented and plastered afterwards). Should I repoint before fitting the rods? Or will they work anyway if I don't?
You probably dont give a shit but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on Instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my brother for the last few days :)
I have just recently bought a property with bad rising damp on the outer wall. There has been a damp course done 26 years ago but the holes were never filled so water and rain just ran straight in. Can I use the same holes to pop the rods into? X
Hi Sam found your videos useful just doing a house with rising damp have down one wall with drystone rods and renderguard two coats sand and cement and skimed with multi finish seems dry after two weeks but at the wall base where its meeting concrete wall seems still wet any ideas I left a 40 mm gap
Sand and cement shouldn’t be all the way to the floor if it’s rising damp and the floor is solid and you have installed a dpc. It could also be a number of things including condensation forming on the cold part of the wall if the property has high humidity.
Thanks for that no I left a gap if I use drystone rods can I tank the wall as well I have renderguard for the sand and cement have watched your videos on the quick method also do you think it's worth me paying for a survey do you go near darlington
Hsilver dale they work the same as the cream, they work only when it’s wet/damp by altering the meniscus of the water inside the masonry capillaries from concave To convex thus stopping the moisture rising up under its own pressure. Complicated init 📚📉📈📊
Hi do you advise plastering over these holes once rods are installed -as the bricks in this video my own wall is quite old and crumbly. When drilling wall has lost significant volume to achieve the 12mm hole. The rod sits loosely. Should it be plastered over?
Hi, if there are pre existing holes in the brick (I'm guessing from a previous damp proof attempt) can I just do it in the brick? The holes are diagonal going down to the mortar
Adnan A.Shahban if you’re familiar with the BBA you will know they 3rd party test to see if what the product says it does, to get a BBA certificate they test and check everything.
So do you really believe that Safeguard Europe have sent a product that has been BBA approved doesn’t work? When products get brought to market in England they have to be tested by an independent 3rd party which is the BBA to see if it does what the manufacturers claim. If the product doesn’t work it don’t get passed. That’s all I’ll say regarding your comment from another made up profile.
You must make a fortune doing surveys from your armchair, it’s a great skill to have guessing you way through life. Any time you want a chat let me know, I love Architecture and talking to RICs surveyors especially the ones that de value properties. I might have a lot to say on that subject.
