They Dont Want You to know This How To Earn ££££s From Dampproofing, 

Nice one, that’s Awsome

Thanks 👍

Nice one good luck with it 👍

Yes , I want every job I do to work and be a success for the customer and if there is ever an issue I want to know why so it doesn’t happen again if it’s a fault of our which these days is few and far between.

Thank you for your kind words 😋

Go on Safegaurd technical site they will know

A home buyer surveyor is not a specialist damp & timber surveyor but in their reports they should recommend you have a specialist survey done if they find anything

@@dampsam sorry I should've specified, it was an independent damp and timber surveyor. We had a level 3 survey when we bought the house, which missed a lot of things and didn't suggest we should get a damp specialist in. It's our first house so didn't realize the surveys were that basic.

Glad it helped

You need to make sure it’s diagnosed correctly. If it has a physical dpc like you say it’s low level damp due to bridging., it may have bridged in one or two places but not everywhere. Make sure it’s a qualified person that is doing your survey.

Hi Tina , each job is different and the reason timber are wet is because they will be in contact with something wet. You need to isolate the timber from the source of moisture. In regards to fixing, they can be stuck in place with one of the many waterproof glue mastics . If a screw needs to go in for a fixing drill the hole and fill it with a clear mastic before putting in the plug. Hope this helps, thank for watching

If you go on damsam.com iv a course you can buy tells you everything you need to install the system

Hi Andy, If you have dry rot the treatment is totally different to dampproofing and I would advise reading up on treatments. Don’t use PVA or should I say ordinary PVA, I hear you about the trolls but I do try and let anyone comment and try and answer them .

Holes first joint above next doors floor level if it’s a solid floor. Plaster below should be a waterproof system to stop any latteral dampness

You need to go on safeguards web site and read how the work, there is a video too, taking mortar reading means nothing

erics vids if it’s the cream it diffuses into the masonry and components of the cream change the structure of how rising damp moisture acts inside the capillaries. The spacing needs to be equal, around every half brick.

100mm and every perpendicular coming down and going up on the mortar course

Hi thanks for joining, yes you just make sure you get the right drill bit length

I can’t say without seeing it

I’ve not herd that but thanks for the info

Get it diagnosed with a competent qualified surveyor on site it might not be a rising damp issue

Yes there the wall can be drilled from outside no problem. My concern would be why are you not taking off the plaster inside if it’s rising damp. Only drilling from outside will not dry the inside plaster if it’s been wet. Again you need to be certain exactly what type of damp you have as not all damp is rising.

You don’t have to if your drill bit is long enough, I find it easier to do both skins though

Never drill through the plaster to install these it’s bad practice, always hack off the plaster if it’s contaminated or damp and reinstate with one of the salt neutralising methods. You can install the rod internally and externally or just from one side if you get the depth right.

We always retrofit above floorboards but every job is different, inside this particular job the floor is solid to that room.

@@dampsam thanks for the video, but surely one would damp proof below the floor boards and joists to prevent rot ?? I am not a builder so im a bit confused .

Yes I keep the off cuts in one of the empty packets and use them up, there’s no waste that way

john smith if you need any advice send me a message via our website.

Don’t as it’s nonsense peter ward has proven this.....that house has cement pointing and that’s causing the damp......should be lime.....simple

@@adventureswiththelittleone493. Maybe you're correct, however, a modicum of time and a few hundred quid for a DPC v's your solution which could involve sand blasting (if the exterior is painted), raking out and re-pointing everything, not to mention changing the windows as I saw you post above..... this solution will win almost every time. No, it's not the purists way, however, if it works it's a very good solution.

You follow the line of the stairs up to the height of the meter, you may also have to do under the stairs too

@@dampsam Thank you

Hi Ash, check out The Damp Show podcast i do there is an early episode and we explain how to get in to the preservation industry . Have a look through the list

This is because they are nonsense and will not cure a damp problem......rising damp is nonsense.....this house has cement pointing on it holding in moisture and was most likely built with lime which is breathable......needs taking off and use lime and the issue will go

@@adventureswiththelittleone493 Johnny Rocket commented above saying they did work...You talk about removing all non lime products on a building and replacing like it's a straightforward job...If I'd of carried out the kind of work you mention it would've cost me nearly as much as the property is worth. Talk is cheap, carrying out the sort of work you fire off about isn't. It cured my rising damp problem(oh it exists I assure you) as it did Johnnys grandfather so I'm guessing you're not as knowledgeable as you'd like to think you are..

Without seeing the job it’s hard to say

It would depend what you lenders terms and conditions are, they normally put a retention on the property until the work has been done by a PCA member company.

Hi si again...its concrete block inside not breeze.thanks

Hi Kevin, the concrete block of breeze should not need a dpc, they would have been say on a plastic or physical one so rising damp won’t be an issue, check for other types of dampness

I would get some advise off baxi tech department.

Only if the subfloor ventilation is inadequate. Check if the floor is springy by applying your weight in places. This could tell you if the supporting joists have dropped.

Good subfloor ventilation is essential check vents arnt blocked

Oak ,Ash Thorn yes you can, you have to measure the door reveal for the wall thickness and the take off the plaster and 25mm from the far edge, then use a drill bit that’s long enough. Push one rod in then another after it then cut the rod to fit so it’s not sticking out.

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW excellent stuff..have a good day 👍

It should work on the inside skin but it anything is bridging inside the cavity the moisture can track across it rainwater splashed back against the masonry.

I would do both skins inside and out, you drill to 20mm off the far side. Always check the manufacturers instructions on their websites

Hi Balraj, I can’t give ball park figures as I offer a bespoke service and there is usually more than one type of damp affecting the property, we usually drill inside and out but it can be done from one side if the drill bit is the right side

Does this not look easy and you can do yourself?

sanbucaone hi thanks for watching, if there is no perp you drill the mortar bed on the same horizontal line. Don’t drill the brick, just keep the spaces equalish

Hi JD, it would depend on what the damp issue is.

@@dampsam rising damp as there is no water source anywhere near

No it won’t compromise the structure

No you insert the rods in the mortar course just above 150mm on the outside,

​@@dampsam what if the wall is built of bricks and stones and they are not perfectly aligned? I mean I can have a layer of bricks, but behind it just irregular stones. I have this very old house with 70 cm thick walls. Unfortunately is not just bricks. It's not the typical English house, since it is located in a different country. There is a wine cellar below the room I am trying to patch. It is really humid, and I think the humidity comes up from there, so I am planning to use these rods to stop it. We suspect the main pipe coming from the roof is draining the water into the ground instead of the sewer. I bought a probe with a camera to inspect it. The wall is 4 meter long and I calculate I would need 270 pounds of rods. So before I buy the product I would like to know if it will work anyway or if it is a waste of money for my use case.

Hi Simon how far should the drill go in ,would the cream not go in the cavity or should you just drill in 100mm. Thanks

I can’t comment on what I can’t see get a survey done

Hi Tone, yes just step up the line doing both perps. The dry rods come in different sizes, but if the stick is short you cut a piece off another rod to make it up, there is a special tool for cutting them.

@@dampsam Thank you Simon, a great help👍not seen other sizes though only 180mm yes I'd already decided to buy enough so that perhaps 10mm short face and rear.

No you drill to within 20mm of the far side

Hi Rio, Nearly right, You point the hole with sand and cement when finished. the cream is the other system and we are trying to show how both work. Have a great Monday. all installation instructions will be on Safeguards website.

NO::: use the cream coz the silozane sticks are shit...drill 10mm dia holes in the horizontal mortar bed ...above inside floor level ...every 12 cm ...10 cm deep !:::DO THE JOB IN THE SUMMER WITHOUT 2 wks of rain as the silicone wont expand in wet walls ...contrary to their claims !

All depends on what type of damp it is and the cause

It looks like rising damp @@dampsam

I think you mean insert the rods or inject the cream, you can do either so it’s what every is best for you, I find it quicker and less drilling to do inside and outside as opposed to drilling one side. Everyone is different.

We point them with sand & cement mortar 4-1

Thank you. 😊

Without actually seeing the job I can’t really say unfortunately

@@dampsam Sure, I'll try to upload a short clip. Also which areas do you cover.

Hi mate, Look like a philosopher with a beard. Suites you. Got a strange question. If the motor near the damp proof needs re-doing. Would you do that first and then use these? Or do the rods and then do the pointing in. Have a property I manage and it has rising damp. The damp proof course is visible but not 150mm above ground level due to slabs. Maybe 70mm or 100mm above ground. One builder friend recommended the dry rods and said a soakaway a foot around the property was overkill. The soakaway was suggested by someone who wanted to get paid. Great to see your reviews. Thanks

Hi, in not familiar with Ytong building blocks, is this a manufacturers name, what type are they?

You need a competent qualified specialist surveyor to do a site visit

There are lots of different scenarios around how and why the bridging has occurred because there can be that many different types. I would need to have a lot more info on yours before I could make an informed decision.

They can be used on a numbers of different designs but you need to have the problem diagnosed correctly, if the damp caused is not rising damp then it may reappear.

Dry Zone rods because inserted correctly you get the correct amount of product every hole

yes you can use the creams if they have a BBA certificate for damp proofing

I am in Ghana I need the rod can someone help me out

Also what's fast dry wall system .I doing them rods this year in 1 corner of our house

No idea without a site visit

You would be best looking on the safeguard website for quantities

You can do either as long as you get the optimum amount of Dryzone’s cream backfilled to each hole

The rods start to work when they com in contact with moisture, if you need to know the ins and outs just go on the Safeguard website

​@dampsam

Hi, did you research further into this? Is the white paste normal? I have the same issue in my house, lots of crap left under the floorboards, sand etc. Did clearing it all out help?

You would need to go on the Safeguard website for that

You need to have the type of damp diagnosed correctly in order to know what system to use

You should be able to measure the depth on an external door or window reveal

8”

Hi Tracie, I’d would need to see pictures of the damp prior to you carrying out the work then after along with a detailed description of what you did so I could comment.

Graham Neil if the fire place is open you can but if it’s filled in with brick and rubble you would need a barrier system installing as I suspect it will be sulphate salt contamination.

This can happen if the flue liners have been installed upside down . The condensation in the flue leaks out. Lining the flue with metal liner can cure it.

@@leeetchells609 any work around chimney breasts would be different as the sulphate salts need to be isolated normally with a waterproof system.

Graham, the dpc would not have been installed on a fireplace as the heat generated by the fire would have negated the need for it. Only now in modern times fires are no longer in use, the lack of heat in the area allows the moisture to cause issue which would have previously been prevented by the heat from the fire.

Hi kevin, is this a question about the video or your own property?

@@dampsam sorry my own property my bad for not specifying thanks

You can fill it in straight away, no need to wait 👍

Will do thanks for the advise 👍

Top Fella hi, with regards to peter iv no issue with lime plasters, ventilation and old techniques but I wish he wouldn’t generalise all dampproofers, there are bad ones and that is the problem in our industry that keeps being highlighted. Peter used to be a PCA member and there was a court case where he lost and that may be something to do with his crusade.

@@dampsam Thanks for reply mate. Yes I like his videos (peter) but he seems to have it in for the PCA and their members. When I was down at Huntington I found all the lads at the PCA to be very knowledgeable and genuine. I think it's unfair as I'm a surveyor and not a tradesman myself so I've referred countless damp problems onto good qualified people like yourself to carry out remedial works and I've never had a call back. As you say mate good and bad in every walk of life, but it is shocking how the average Joe builder/DIY person think their damp experts just because they can't properly use a damp meter.

@@pmoon9551 the salts come from the cement.

@@SigurdVolsunga really? And on buildings constructed using lime bound mortar only?

You can use any replastering system that’s in accordance with BS6576. Which means a salt neutralising plaster. Renderlite, limelite, dri coat, Dryzone dampproofing plaster are all wet trowel applied plasters that are compatible.

@@dampsam thank you for the response and video! I'll be doing that

Don’t do this externally as the damp/ moisture will then simply travel up the render and back in. Salt inhibiting won’t make a difference

Major League Gamer hi it does have a use by date on it and I would say this is to cover the manufacturer legally, moisture may affect it slightly when opened. How long will it be before you use it again? We leave the open tubes in the applicator in between jobs and have done since it came out 18 years ago and we have not had any issue. Thanks for watching 🤓👍

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW hi thanks for you fast response, I have left it in the applicator since my last job that was about a year ago, so it hasn’t been open to the elements, only the small bit at the end of the metal tube, witch has gone hard, but with a little squeeze the cream came out as normal, I will have to check the use by date on the sausage tube

:/

videoraver 2 thirds into the thickness of the wall or 25mm from the far edge of the wall your drilling. Thanks for watching👍

I thinks it’s the early vids ,

Yes don’t drill into the existing DPC, you need to be certain that the type of damp your treating is rising, I would be very suprised if it had failed in various areas and it’s not bridging

You say bridging would that be on a solid 9 inch wall

You don’t drill the bricks you drill the mortar course

Jenny Davis hi Jenny feel free to email me with your concerns dampsam@alldrydampproofing.com

yes ill run some French drains through my living room ...itll be a nice water feature...lol

Both inside and out or just from one side

Hi Albert, it would depend on what type of damp is affecting the property, the rods only work on rising damp.

@@dampsam cheers Simon yes it’s rising not to bad but don’t want to let it get out of hand cheers for reply

No it’s not that deep, you don’t drill past the first brick leaf if doing both sides

It’s on safeguards website all the info

Charles Brown hi, yes they can be inserted from outside, make sure it’s not condensation forming from inside, scratch the surface and if the plaster is light underneath it’s not coming from the brick, it will be forming on the surface.

@@dampsam Hi I will take a picture and send it to your email, i do get a lot of condensation in there roof is metal and all walls are breeze blocks i put a ceiling up and insulation then i plastered all the walls, some days now and again you see a lot of condensation on the outside wall

i will take pics and end to your email, is has a metal roof and i put insalation and a ceiling up then plastered all walls , all walls are breeze blocks and the external is one breeze block this some days the is a lot of condesation on the outside wall, i leavethe window open, I might put a vent in the outside wall

Ok thanks for your specialist knowledge in this field based on your guesses 🤦🏻

It’s from over 10 years ago I think, not been called back

Yes everyone minus the damp proof companys

Yes done this myself to a horribly damp single skin brick outbuilding I was told there was no damp corse, the slab had failed, rising damp etc I took a chance and removed the cement render from the outside and the gypsum from the inside and let dry out for a week replastered with a 3 coat traditional lime render. It cost 300 pounds on materials and is now dry as a bone! The building also houses a pool heater exchanger and filter that used to be basically a condensation factory 😂. It’s now dry as a bone even the rafters have now dried out! If it wasn’t for the expense I would be confident enough in the buildings damp extraction/breath ability to fit a shower and jacuzzi

"Why not use lime mortor and rendering to let the wall breath instead"::: your Comments DONT make any sense....the wall in the video didnt have rendering !::: have you been watching Schizo Pete Wards videos ?:::Old solid bricks arent very porous but the mortar bed is a porous as feck !

Is that what your told the new house buyers of your damp ,mouldy house...lol@@edjackson3663

@@TheMiiiyyykkk Older buildings work by releasing water out through the masonry, the main way this happens is through the mortar beds. That building has very obvious and inappropriate portland cement strap pointing. This means that the water coming up the wall can't escape as easily out the mortar beds (because cement is not as permeable as lime) so the water hangs around in the wall and makes it damp. You don't need cement rendering to cause damp, though, if you do have it it can cause even worse problems than the pointing (obviously). This isn't an opinion you can have, it's a fact! There are official guidelines and advice surrounding using lime and not cement on old buildings for a reason (it's just a shame not that many people unless they've done research know about it)! I mean even the people who make portland cement (e.g. blue circle) say you shouldn't use it by it's self on historic period properties (they suggest adding "Hydralime" which is pure non-hydraulic lime, though, obviously it's better to just use pure NHL but I don't think they produce that so I doubt they'd ever suggest it)

It’s already been done when they invented it, if it’s left on paper you see the product working after an hour or so

Take off the plaster to find it

John Jones what’s your point, did the castle have Gypsum plaster on them, er no 13th century not event wattle n Duab.

where do I see Sam's Email?

Damp sam is a con artist

Really? What grounds do you have to make a statement like that?

Drill into mortar if using creams or damp rods,

@@dampsam thank you for the reply..your a top gent 👍

Glynn Hancock hi Glyn you can use either, if you look on the Safeguard website there will be drawings showing you how to drill each type of wall , solid of cavity. 👍

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks Simon. When I rang them for advice, they said to avoid the cream dripping into the cavity it was best to use the rods. Your videos are really useful. 👍

Glynn Hancock hi, the rods are great I love them as you get the right amount in the hole every time, you could still use cream if the wall is drilled from both sides, When drilling a wall you don’t go all the way through, you drill two thirds the way in. Or 20mm from the far edge, takes a bit of doing though on some walls .

Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks much appreciated 👍

Bet you would 🤷🏻‍♂️

20mm off the far edge

Thankyou for your professionalism

You can but need a good reason why