Finally a video that explains this in detail step by step, I’m working on a 78 bronco and had no idea I needed to hit the arm out of place to slide the knuckle out. My dumbass was trying to bash the joints out while the knuckle was in place and I didn’t get far, I didn’t realize there was a camber locking nut in the top holding that upper ball joints in place. Let me just say this that locking nut at the top is a beast it won’t let you push out the joint. Anyways I got that special tool coming and hopefully after that it is relatively easy…
your style Is unique made it look really easy. I have not see that style of removing the ball joints and that is how I am going to do it in my 1992 Ramcharger 4x4. thanks
smooth job. i like how clean just about everything is including the floor i like that. i think i have issues LOL. I have a 1992 ramcharger everything is out just finished with the Dana 44 changing all the seal and re gearing it during the memorial day put it back on the frame and tonight will do the ball joints. good job my friend
The upper threaded insert you put in second is supposed to be 40 ft lbs and you have to adjust as needed to obtain close to 26 pounds of back and forth pull with a digital fish scale. It is in the Haynes manual and many other videos on this. If it’s too tight, it will prematurely wear out the ball joints
A 1974 F100 4x4 uses the same Dana 44 front axle, and this video was extremely helpful to us as we replaced a spindle and a bunch of bearings and seals. We too didn't properly torque the Adjusting Sleeve (Ford term, installation begins @28:50; Spicer calls it an "Adjusting Split Ring"). The 1974 Ford Truck Shop Manual agrees with @buttonysquare8501 - the spec is 40 ft-lb. FWIW, the Ford manual doesn't say anything about adjusting as needed, it just says 40 ft-lbs.
@@WorkinOnIt I would grease it first then do what the Haynes manual says which is to buy a handheld digital fish scale and pull in the tie rod hole until you get 26 lbs. I had to adjust one. The other was fine. You are measuring the force it takes to turn the ball joint in the socket. That nut will change the distance it takes for the ball joint to start to tighten down. Then the upper ball joint gets torqued to 100 ft/lbs and 70-80 i believe for the lower but I can’t remember what that one was.
Thanks Peter! Wish I could and maybe one day. For now it's a little bit of DIY help and a little bit of having fun. Really I'm only posting things I'm having fun doing. And I'm too much of a family man to let it consume my life. Hope to have our trip to Moab for Easter Jeep Safari up soon so stay tuned!
Only thing I'd do differently is pregrease my Ball joints a little bit before I put it in and torque it down. Then you know all of the joint got grease before any weight was put on it . Not really necessary but it's what I do.
I borrowed the kit from a friend. I wana say the brand was Astro Pneumatic Tools. But any of the heavy duty kits should work and you can usually rent them from any parts store.
After you pull the hub off the axle will slide right out. Check out my other videos on the front Dana 44. I show how to remove the hub and axle. If you’re going as far as ball joints might be worth doing some of the other stuff too.
I wish I could but there is enough variances between Dana 44's be it Ford, Jeep, International, etc and all the years for each that part numbers vary. Go check out RockAuto.com they're very good at narrowing down the part you need after you enter the vehcile make, year and model.
How did this ball joint install hold up? Some people say that after driving the turning will loosen up and won't be as stiff... is this true in your case? I'm replacing mine tomorrow 😬
Yo ando buscando los birlos que tiene esa base donde van las rótulas y no los encuentro por qué son más delgados los busque en todo San Antonio Texas me podrían decir donde los puedo conseguir se los agradecería mucho
Would you happen to know model number of the ball joint press you used to do this job? I just got a brand new loaner from autozone, damn threads in the C are messed up. OEM TOOL brand new - no good. I might just by a press lol
I wana say it was this one. I borrowed a buddies kit. Orion Motor Tech 21PCS Master Ball Joint Press | Upper and Lower Ball Joint Removal Tool | Automotive Mechanic Tool Set a.co/d/iAvzJX2
@@4HIGHGARAGE thanks!! I ended up buying a northerntool 12 ton press on ebay friday morning, dang thing will be here tomorrow on a sunday - fedex. My k20 has been a fighter every inch of the way. Every wheel bearing, seal and balljoints, tierods universal joints being replaced.
@@UcantBeSerious03 Nice! You’ll use the shit out of that press. Great plan too. If you look back through my older vids that’s exactly what I did on this ‘79 Cherokee too.
Did it require a snap ring on the Upper Ball Joint? The joint I have is installed straight and fully seated but doesn't allow clearance for the snap ring on the upper. Either I bought the wrong part number or it's not needed?
@@4HIGHGARAGENo worries mate, I have been a dummy several times trying to learn how to repair cars. I started to learn in 1979, made several mistakes and I am still learning as I go today. Any good service manual should describe using the method I suggested. I have done three dana 44 front FSJ axles this way and it worked well every time.
