Thanks for this! I just used this to take my head off and it helped so much! Someone had their hands in this 280z motor, it has flat tops, 240z rods, and a diesel crank! No wonder why it had good power!
Blown head gasket between cylinder 5&6. Very common on these old L6 engines because of the poor coolant passage design in the back of the head. Look at what Nissan did with the RB engine design to rectify the issue (it's pretty neat)
Hey Jason! Man, if that's the case, I'm glad I took off the cylinder head. I didn't think it had a blown head gasket because 1) there were never any smoke in the exhaust, 2) I didn't find any oil in the coolant, nor coolant in the oil, and 3) compression testing revealed low compression in only cylinder number 5... So I just thought it was a valve not sealing properly in #5. But looking at the pistons, you might be right.
Thank you so much for this! Ive been preparing to remove the head on my 83' 280zx and watching this definitely gives me reasurance considering this will be first time opening it up!
I have a 1980 280ZX that I'm told was parked when it overheated. I suspect I'm going to have to pull the head because it's probably warped. But I have to get the engine to turn first so I can check the compression. This video was helpful since all of my engine experience (which is a fair bit) is with pushrod engines.
This video is ENORMOUSLY helpful! I've got a valve seal leak and I figure, If I'm going to be replacing the seals, I should replace all the other gaskets as well. This is my first car and this video really puts a lot of confidence in the removal. Is it possible to get in contact with you if I have any further questions?
Hey sorry for the late reply man, I've been just slammed with my day job! Yeah, you can either leave me a message here, or send me an email at restorationforbeginners@gmail.com. My channel isn't that big, so I do read every single comment and reply as I can.
Nice! I hope you have a better time with the cylinder head rebuild than I am having. I just put out a new episode showing you talking about the DEBACLE...
Maybe a case of dyslexia for me. But just curious regarding the timing chain tension holder tool. It looks like you might have placed it in with the straight side pointer to the passenger side of the car? The timing chain holder tool I got from Z car depot, seems a bit thicker than the one you have, I had to hammer it lightly into place but the curved side is facing the passenger side if the car. I'm sure the most important part is making sure the tensioner has something blocking it. I'm probably just being a little paranoid as this is my first round with the L28. Gravely appreciate your videos, they help out a ton.
wow that head came of easy. Agree with 5 and 6 look to be loafing. Based on how easy it came off and the confusing cam/oil bar combo, clearly some one has been in there since it was new. Can you see on the cylinder that are exposed how do the wall look? I have heard that the blocks on these are very robust. Any ridges on the tops?
Yeap, I guess it's good that I took the head off, since the engine really wasn't showing the "typical" signs of a blown head gasket. The cylinder walls are pretty solid, at least the ones I can see right now. I didn't notice any ridges or oddly worn patterns. I'll have to get a flashlight and take a closer look though. I'm REALLY hoping that the block is solid... I'm not ready for complete engine removal yet!
from what I have read, the bottom end on these are real solid, I suspect it will be fine. really odd about that oil bar, I can't recall the specifics of how the oil gallery is configured and or blocked off for oil tube usage.
I have a problem with spark plug number 4 on my 1972 240z E88 head. Whenever stuck in traffic, plug gets fouled and engine looses power as it starts misfiring. Compression is great. Any clues??
Hey Simon, I think my odometer reads ~40K, but you should know that the odometer "resets" after 100k. So unless you're personally familiar with the history of the car, I'd assume that it has turned over already. So the actual mileage on my car is actually, most likely, 140k. Hope it's not 240k. Not that it matters at this point!
I was fortunate enough to purchase the car from the wife of the original owner and have the documentation for the car. I paid up for the car, but it is in remarkable condition. Although prior to my purchase it had sat for the better part of a decade in a garage. I've had her 2 years now...
That is awesome! Yeah, I know nothing about the history of my car, so I'm just hoping that the odometer didn't spin over twice. I'm constantly finding out stuff that the previous owners have done to the car, and I'm not a huge fan of those. You should dive in to the engine, if only to learn more about it. It's been fun for me (but not easy on the wallet to be sure...)
Wondering if you know the max allowable number for head warp? I haven’t pulled the head yet but I’m right there. I know the guy before me replaced the headgasket and wondering if he warped the head in the process
Haha I have no idea Brett, I'm digging through the L-series engine guide to find that out. I'll let you know if I find it. Generally though, especially the straight sixes have a bad reputation for blowing head gaskets. If you have the head already off, it might not be a bad idea to take a quick trip to the machine shop to sort that stuff out (and get it pressure tested).
I know it has been a while since you have posted this vid, but do you by chance have an amazon link for that chain holding tool? I can't seem to find that one. I have prime and want the fast shipping as I am going to try and do this asap. Thanks!
@@jjosue1971 www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q8TVO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SCJSCSERR1YT9FAYB98N Although it says 1980 for the earliest year, it should work for earlier engines, as the L28, L26, L24, L20b, L18, & L16 were the same as far as the timing chain configuration, in earlier years. The Nap-Z, etc, from the early '80's which are listed first, had different heads, but the block part was the same as far as this wedge is concerned.
Haha I hear you. Some people just hate seeing power tools be used on engine components, even if it's only for disassembly. You run the risk of breaking bolts if you're not careful, but I decided to roll the dice here, especially since I didn't plan on reusing the head bolts anyway.
Hey Dave, nice to hear from ya. I'm still waiting for the head to come back. There was a hiccup at the shop; turns out the head needed some extensive welding work, so I decided to trade in the core for some work done on the intake manifold, valve cover, and some other stuff. I bought a rebuilt N47 head and I'm waiting for it to come in. Should arrive in the next week or so. I also ordered a BUNCH of other parts like seat upholstery kit, headlights, headers (my exhaust manifold was way too far gone), exhaust, etc. I honestly haven't done much in the last couple of weeks. Just planning out the work, ordering parts, and waiting. A lot of stuff to come though, I'm very excited to get this thing back running!
Was yours an N42? I just bought a '75 280z and have been watching your vids, thank you!!! Great job!! two of my cyl's are low on compression and we think the brass valve seats are the issue. Especially because we cannot adjust some of those valves, maxed out and can't adjust to get the right gap. I was quoted about $500 to fix the head/valves so i'm wondering what other options I have. Was the N47 a better choice or just one that you found that was more cost-effective?
@@RestorationForBeginners the camshaft that is in my l24 is missing the knobs that should lock the wrench down in place, any other suggestion on how i get the camgear off properly ?
