I just want to say Thank you for taking time to do what you do. I am a beginner woodworker and your videos have helped me tremendously. I also like your style of teaching. I wish I lived in England, I would sign up for one of your classes. Best of luck with your channel and business. I only wish you the best bruh
If you're interested in getting the Katz-Moses guide, please be aware it is only available direct from this website: 1:8 Ratio: lddy.no/stpg 1:6 Ratio: lddy.no/stpe Shipping is cheap to the UK though!
I tried to get one of those Katz-Moses dovetail jigs but they were out of stock the other day so I'm going to wait til the new year to see if they have them back in stock then Matt.. They're both really nice jigs tbf so either one will do me.. Thanks for this awesome video my friend..
Matt, Thanks for the side by side. I was debating which one to order and now I know the Katz-Moses one is best for a beginner like me. Thanks for making this video!
Such a great review and comparison. I was trying to figure out which one of these I wanted to purchase and your video sold me. The way you present the info was to the point, very helpful, and done in a way that's easy for anyone to understand. Thank you so much now excuse me as I go look at every video you've ever made lmao
Great comparison Matt. I already have the David Barron guide, which I find does the job for someone like me who isn’t cutting loads of dovetails, but the Katz-Moses guide does look good...
I really like the idea of these, as I am yet to build up the muscle memory. The Katz-Moses one is the one that intrigues me the most, but I’m worried about import taxes.
I have both and love the David Barron one because it doesn't slip but the glide tape on the side is a pain and can throw your alignment off if you don't pay attention or replace it. The K-M guide is brilliant but it feels like it has been dipped in mineral oil every time I touch it despite cleaning it off with multiple solvents. Also, sandpaper doesn't stick to it at all. Does anyone else have that issue with the K-M?
Hi, great video. Just on the David Barron guide- he does have a 90 degree guide for those shoulder lines as well as a 45 degree for cutting mitres. Heal so makes several pitched dovetail guides for every joint imaginable. 1-4 To 1-8 I think. Cheers Dan
I own the David Barron guide and it’s nice but he saw does have a habit of losing its track, there’s also a learning curve because you have to flip the David Barron guide to cut either pins or tails. I’ll probably switch out over to the Katz-Moses one soon.
I love your videos Matt, they are clear and concise every time. I assume there is no chance of the magnets cutting or scratching a groove in the saw after time?
Nope, they are very VERY slightly inset. Means you get the full force of the magnet while still getting proper location on the edge of the guide. Another thing that the Barron lacks due to the plastic protector over the magnet.
The Veritas guide has a clamp that can be used to hold it in place so that it can't slip. The clamp can also be easily removed if you want to hold the guide in place manually. They also make a 90 degree one for beginners that could be used for that one cut on the outermost tails.
I have the David Barron aluminum guide. I like it, but I consider the workmanship to be extremely substandard considering the cost. On less than 5 uses, both magnets fell out. This is because a very (VERY) small dot of adhesive was used in the very center of the magnet. However, when you look at the chunk of aluminum, that dot of adhesive rests over a counterbored hole that is in the center of the magnet recess. So they have literally applied glue to a magnet on one side, and to an open hole on the other side. In all, there might have been a few thousandths of an inch of surface area to which the glue was stuck. The UHMW tape gets torn up quickly. I've also had to replace that. Yes, it was an easy fix. But it's a fix I shouldn't have had to make.
I absolutely hate the Katz-Moses DT guide. I have been woodworking for decades and learned how to do accurate dovetails about 25 years ago. Or so I thought... Then I tried the JKM dovetail guide and the very first time I tried it I saved a few minutes per end and my dovetails were visibly better, in that they were tighter. In the interest of fair disclosure, I use sort of a combination of Bob Cosman's approach and my method, but using this DT guide. Now-- and the reason why I hate the JKM guide-- is that I can never go back to not using it. Sure, if I really take my time and am using one of my better saws I can get a similar result. However, it takes me about 10 minutes longer per draw or box (mostly safety margin chisel cleanup), and I still have a much greater chance of having to "fix" some minor issues when I don't use this guide. So, thanks a lot Johnathan Katz-Moses...
Hi Matt. Thank you for everything you do. Learning a lot but, I’m struggling with saw technique with Japanese saw when cutting joints. What is correct angle, start position etc. Some start at the back of the cut, some at front. Some hold the saw in the centre body position and some to the side like a western saw. It’s confusing. I just refurbished a western tendon saw which does not wander at the front of the cut like the Japanese one does, but I would prefer to stick with the Japanese style. I’m using a Ryoda I bought at Axminster. Do you have a video on this? Cheers
My Katz-Moses guide hella cracked when it fell from my bench. It's not useable and they don't stand behind the product if damaged 'in use.' I'd go with the one out of metal.
Thanks for excellent demo, Matt! Could you please recommend any place where to buy Kats-Moses guide in UK or Europe. Need it urgently, have no time to order from US.
To Photography clear objects .... while photographing laser a black object above the area you are shooting like a large piece of foam core .... it is the reflection of the light that is the issue. Casting a shadow will allow you to see through it
With all due respect Matt, you could do a dovetail by using your saw with your feet while blindfolded and they’d be better then what I come up with after concentrating for a week. So the difference between the two? Not a big deal for the average guy
They both seem like nice guys. I love David Barron’s videos (sad he doesn’t publish nowadays). I have the wooden K-M’s one and works brilliantly. I have just purchased the new clear model though your link. By the way, Matt, once you start with project videos (no hurry, I love your tutorials and tool duels) making David Barron’s tool chest would be nice. Cheers!
A box or a tool chest was on my list of ideas! I think David posts in batches rather than continuously. He gets progressional videographers in for a couple of days to make sure the videos are as high quality as possible. Pays off! Thank you for the kind words, glad to hear you’re enjoying the tutorials!
Nice comparison Matt. Do you think you can talk a little slower it’s difficult for me and I’m sure others to keep up with you and let it all sink in while you’re talking so fast please slow it down a little.
Quite a good review. I wasn't aware of the infringement issues some of the commenters have mentioned. Now seems the Veritas is the original and you need to include it. Does Axminster not carry it?
They do sell it, however I don’t like the fact you have to clamp it in place. As you can see with these guides, there’s no need to do that whatsoever. Also, look at the amount of surface area you have on the Katz compared to Veritas. Much better location over the length of the saw.
Just checked out the Veritas guide. Interesting, kind of pricey. Could be used without clamping, though Veritas doesn't mention that. Looks like David Barron made a minor design tweak plus omitted the clamps. All things considered, I concur that the Katz-Moses one is the most interesting as you concluded. Have to check out his channel.
Thanks for comparing the two, but had to reduce the playback speed to 75% so I could follow you at what was more a normal talking speed. I don't know if you alway talk this fast, or if maybe you did a little pick me up before making this video...regardless you need to slooooow down.
At 3:10 "It's very easy for beginners to cut the wrong side of the line." I've been doing wood working for 25+ years. I must still be a beginner. No offense. I'll always be a beginner at heart. Cheers.
I hate you, just ordered both the 8:1 and 6:1 from Katz Moses. No more excuses, I’m going to cut some dovetails and put the Domino on the side for once.
I would argue rosewood will outlast the plastic as plastic breaks down with uv sunlight. Aluminium is easily damaged if it falls whereas rosewood won't be so easily damaged in a fall. We have timber buildings in UK over 500 years old.
I imagine they work just as well as these so price and features are what are going to decide. The fact that tge veritable clamps may be important for some, but I like that these are more flexible without that.
Young man,you are trying to bring your knowledge across. In order for the recipients to be able to follow what you're spitting out, you need to lower the avalanche of information to a speed that your watchers can follow.
Yeah, I think he's just shortening the name. Urethane isn't a plastic. And the monomer of polyurethane, which could possibly be referred to as urethane, isn't a plastic either.
Stick with David Baron.I have both and DB guides are precision machined and superior. Katz Moses albeit with 90degree useful benefit is very poorly cast in the plastic. Magnets in KM guides securely retained but faces on which saw runs are not at all flat. You can see daylight when resting saw so you really just have a succession of high points and as such minimum contact. Design feature or just poorly made. Also got stung £19.75 import fees of which £11.75 vat and £8.00 international fees. Don’t rule out veritas guides very good and machined very accurately.
Matt, you must SLOW DOWN.....(Come up for air Bro !) You are unfortunately not understandable, without "repeated replays". It is even worse for American English speakers. You have so much more to give than most people teaching on RU-vid......however it will all be wasted if we are forced to obtain knowledge elsewhere because we can't follow you. I would much rather learn from you. :)
You have a real future in teaching woodworking, and not just on RU-vid. You stand out among woodworking RU-vidrs, your information is solid, you explain things well, you are excited, youthful, and a handsome fellow. Don't be surprised if someone in TV sees that too. If the BBC calls you to host a show for them on TV they will absolutely tell you about the pronunciation thing, and they will expect you to fix it right away. If someone gave you advice to improve your video quality with better lighting, or something technical like that, you would listen to them. But because this seems like a personal attack on you, you are insulted. Don't be. I had a speach impediment when I was a kid. Once I was told about it, and worked on it, I corrected it. Concentrate on it, and you'll be fine. To make the d sound, put the tip of the tongue in the same place you do when making the t sound. The difference between t and d, is d gets vocalized along with the release of air, while t is just the release of air. The j sound is also vocalized, but it has a longer, less explosive, release of air than the t or d. There are videos explaining it all. All the best to you. I think you have a great future.
I live in the United States, so my knowledge of English pronunciation is limited. However, I watch a fair amount of English television and RU-vid videos, I have never heard anyone pronounce a 'd' that way before. And the English guys I watch who make videos on sword use have never pronounced duel as jewel. I'm not saying that jewel is not spoken in places in England, but it doesn't seem to be universal there. As you know, we have various word pronunciations in the U.S. that may be considered acceptable alternatives, but many are not. Also, I am not an expert on phonology and don't claim to know any more than what anyone else knows about it.
