DBXL-E 2.0 Center Diff Upgrade 

Now that's one well modded rig. I hope it runs out as well as it sounds. Thanks for sharing your upgrades. 😎👍

That is awesome!😎👍

I found the upgrade to help in almost every aspect of the handling and running of the car. I hope you like it. Please let us know what you think of it when you get a chance to give it a try. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios I finally changed the center diff to 500K and all I can say is WOW~~!! much better. So this got thinking, what if what if I go even thicker. Haha

I'm glad you think so. They are a lot of work to produce. 😎👍

Thank you! Cheers!

Glad you enjoyed it. AJ

I hope you like it. As we say, tune it for your driving style. Ours works really well for our style. Best of luck with yours. 😎👍

Good info all. Thanks for the update on your build. It sounds like a beast. Keep on bashing my friend. AJ

It is pretty good for a lot of stuff, it’s big though. I hope you have the room to run it. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍

30K front and rear, 500K center. Thanks for asking. AJ

Why only 30k? What happens when you go thicker fluids in the front and rear? Does it make it kinda like a locker? 🤔 I was so pumped when I saw this video drop! Lol

The kit came with 30K in the front and rear, and I love the way it handles with that weight. So, there has been no reason to swap it out. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios awesome! :D all my local shop had was a 30k, and a 45k. So I’m going to go with the 45k in the rear, unless you advise otherwise? :)

Great channel subscription hit! I have the gas 2.0, you recommend 500k for the center diff too? Thanks again

Maybe one day

For 1/8th scale, say like in my Kraton EXB, I use 30k front, 50k rear, 100k center. That seems to work well for me. It may be a good starting point for you.

Letting it drain is a good thing but I would be careful not to lock the center diff up as it can be a lot harder on the components.

@@AJJAMStudios i agree, locking it up is not a good idea but tightning it a bit more will. Thank you for replying

Just tuning the center diff made a world of difference. We still haven’t had to do the front or rear. Thanks for asking 😎👍

Nice. Thanks. AJ

I used an Arrma 6s wing mount and connected it in place of the rear wheel mount. It required a thick zip tie but works awesome. Thanks for asking. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios Thanks for the fast response. Looking forward to your next video.

I feel your pain. The mods can be as expensive as the original purchase of the car itself. Still, we mod...because it's cool. Bash on my friend. AJ

@@AJJAMStudios 🤘🤙✌️

The aluminum braces for the top plate and chassis are a lot tougher, but I would recommend waiting until you break the original parts to buy the new ones. While mine broke straight away, how you use you machine makes a difference and you may not need them, depending upon your usage of the vehicle of course. We are usually very hard on our rigs around here and thus we were in need of the upgrades almost immediately. I hope this helps. 😎👍

@@AJJAMStudios Thanks For Your Honesty 👏👍 Many Other RU-vidrs Would Have Promoted The Upgrades Straight Away (As Many Are Sponsored) Once Again Thanks & Keep Up Your Fantastic Videos👏👏🇬🇧👍

I'm glad we could help...that's what we're here for. 😎👍

Nothing too special. We wear them out pretty fast so you'll see a variety of tooling in the studio. We usually buy local, hobby stores and such, but eBay is always an option for us here. We search Metric hex drivers and see what pops up. If it looks well made we try it. If it looks cheap we don't. We don't have a favorite set we use.

When I have the chance to run it some more. The weather here is terrible at the moment. Thanks for asking. AJ

Heavy it may be, but we like the way the car handles with 500K. There's nothing wrong with your setup though. If 20mil works for you, awesome. Thanks for the input. AJ

We used it. It just went on off camera.

When I do a full rebuild I do clean the parts completely, it's just a good idea, but when I'm just doing an oil change for control purposes I don't get too involved and here's why...sometimes I switch out an oil and hate it, so I do it again and potentially again, and that can be labor intensive if I'm doing a complete job of it. Yes, you're right, doing the job right every time is the right way to go about it, but I get impatient sometimes and can't wait to see if the new oil works, plus, the small amount left behind is negligible, and really does little to affect the new oil. And for the second comment, there was a bit of residual Loctite left on the threads and they tightened up really nicely, so I was willing to risk it. As before, you are right yet again, as I should have demonstrated the proper way to do it, but it slipped my mind at the time of filming. Thanks for keeping me on my toes. AJ