If I understand correctly, this video show pairing new key with car. In your case thief did something wrong during this procedure resulted data lost communication and damage comfort module?
That brings up a bunch more questions! It would seem that Dan is using a hacked key to operate the car (since the physical key doesn't unlock the door). Kind of wish the comfort module programming was at least touched on - but I'm sure there's another video for that.
Excellent demonstration. You're one of the most professional RU-vid technicians out there. Not only are you great at diagnosis but your video quality is superb! Keep up the fantastic content.
25+ year MB tech. No idea why your video popped up on my feed but watched it. You use very sound diagnostic steps but this is a perfect example of why I can’t understand why people want to try to fix all makes… Have never sat in a Audi in my life but most high end cars work the same so I was rolling right along with you while you were getting there. An Audi only guy would have gone almost straight to it. God Bless ya’ll for diving into everything but it is so much easier when all you deal with day in and out is one make. Good show.
Hi Emmett, you are right. Working on just one brand is easier. I've worked on Bmw's for 15 years and at one point i had the feeling i'd seen it all, and needed new challenges.
Hi ,Dan ,you are a great person with full of patience and love what you are doing, and at the same time you are increasing my knowledge .Thanks for your valuable time and support by sharing your valuable video.
Like I said one time , You are the Best. 👍. Just one question or give ne a tip. I am always afraid of burning a module just by giving it power like this case in the gateway module. , sorry if I don’t explain my self clearly, but English is not my primary lenguaje. Thanks 👍. Keep the good work.
Wow this was awesome to follow. It was a Dutch (from The Netherlands) car wasn't it? As a software developer I can totally relate to this progressive way of thinking. Just cut big problems into smaller chunks and that way stuff is way easier to understand. Goof job man!
Hey Dan, I have a similar situation but with a 2018 Q5. I bought it with no keys from an auction. I can’t seem to find the comfort control module(rear left quarter panel). There are free cables, which makes me think the module was taken. If I buy a pre-owned module, can it be reprogrammed to work with my car? We would like a vid of the module programming if possible. Thanks for your time and I appreciate your channel.
Hi Dan, great episode! I hope you can clarify how you programmed the new comfort module to the car, since it is part of the immoboliser. which tool did you use? thanks a lot. When I have to change a module that is part of the immoboliser, I buy an immoboliser kit (usually ECU+BCM+Key+Dashboard... depending on the car) and change them all.
Great video. But I do have a nasty taste left over. The key does not fit to the door lock, only the rf signal is now able to open the car. I know you said it was stolen, but are you allowed to do this on this car? (And why not check the battery of the remote at the very first point of diagnosis?
That was a really neat diagnosis, Dan! Very logical thought process :) Would be interesting to see the programming process too...please show it next time!
PHAD: one of the software and hardware packages to remove component protection is ODIS and another is Abrites. Both are quite involved and very expensive. The ODIS version gets you into the VAG servers (in Germany). You also have to go through a comprehensive registration and vetting process! I agree, it would be cool to see the CP removed and the CCM matched to the car.
Dan, how have you only got 140k subscribers??? You are extremely talented, concise, systematic and organized - and deliver it all in an easy to listen and understand way. I hope you and your channel get better recognition. Thank you for what you do.
@@Diagnosedan you don't make a lot of videos but your videos are excellent. I've learned a lot and try to watch every video. I think you're way too advanced for most common DYI mechanics, and unfortunately you're way over the heads of most average mechanics. Or should I say parts changers. After they all give up you are the next step above and beyond.
@Diagnosedan That's probably because most people who are willing to work on their car or do some maintenance aren't informed the way you are. Ik spreek ook Nederlands. Ik ben een originele Tukker en spreek dus ook Twentsch.
That was a tricky one but you are a master in logical thinking. In the end it is easy for anyone to say " of course " but sometimes coming up with a game plan is the hardest part. It all makes sense in the end but I bet that many would get stuck at wanting to make sure that the key was matching the car. Great video Danny. A pleasure to listen and watch.
Thank you very much for the great comment. In the video the diag looks easier than it was. With no comm. you need to come up with a plan to make any progress.
Always, logical, methodical and proves in multiple ways where the problem is. Great stuff. No taking anything for granted or guessing here. Well done. 👍🏼
Great job Dan , your so right to split the circuits to check for the faults , your customer will be so happy that you have the expertise to diagnose and fix a problem like this , well done sir 👍👍👍
Reminds me of the BMW you diagnosed with a comfort module blocking things due to the passenger side door handle being shorted out. Great diagnosis, great vid - thanks. 👍
@@unclemarksdiyauto The door handle had a short which affect the comfort module because it’s their controller. It was a right hand front door handle that fixed the car, the car came right as soon as the handle was unplugged if I remember correctly
@@sleepwalker8600 that part I remembered! Lol! All because of a door handle. Cars are getting to complex, which will be bad when they get older and the cost of repair is more than the car. We think it is bad now.
He is not really a mechanic, rather a diagnostic technician. A true mechanic would do oil changes, brake pad changes, air filter changes, spark plug changes, brake fluid changes all day long, and tire rotations twice a year during the seasons, do wheel alignments, deal with rusty bolts and nuts, rusty exhausts, timing belt and timing chain changes, and hardly ever be confronted with serious electronical issues apart from broken light bulbs. Thats why diagnostic technicians have a separate qualification track and a separate name should be used for their profession.
Dan...the newest car I've ever worked on was a 98 Ametican Camry. This stuff is fantastic, optical cable coms(!). I'm wondering..was the fob with the wrong key ever determined to belong to the car?, or did the reprogramming accept the fob, regardless of originality?
@@Diagnosedan its very possible that the metal key does belong to the car. Its very common that those metal keys never get used and fill up with gunk and dont work. Ive had it happen on two cars.
Really Nice!!! Did you do a board level inspection of the old module for simple obvious component level failures (water ingress, shorted tantalum caps etc)? I would love to see a module programming/coding.
Great job,well done. The VW family is too much complex to get a diagnosis,but you make it easy. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Happy new year from Brazil.
Unlike many mechanics, you approached this as an electronic tech. Good work. One question remains though: Could the original comfort module be reprogrammed? It might have gone into a default status due to detecting unauthorized use of the car.
If there is no communication how would the old module be reprogrammed? There are non OE solutions to read/write the chip directly but for waranty issues and not knowing the history we choose to go with a new module. If you want to know what i think happend to the car, click on the link in the top comment
Dan can I just say a massive thank you. I have been watching your Channel for a while now as I'm trying to get my head around and get into the diagnostics side of the automotive trade. Your videos are so informative and easy to follow and your knowledge comes across. Your videos are definetely playing a big part in my learning so thanks for all the time and effort you put into your videos. If anyone has any recommendations for training for anyone looking to do diagnostics on cars please fire away thanks. P.S the list of tools I need is ever growing after watching your videos 😂
Still my most favorite auto-diagnostician, Dan. You explain things so well and make it seem like we could do these diagnostics on our own…..which I clearly could not. 😂 keep up the great work, Dan! Lifetime fan, here. I know you have your TSB stuff going on, Dan, but I miss you when you’re gone for so long between videos.
Another great video, Dan. Very informative and interesting. Glad you shared it with us. Once again you solved a difficult situation with your unique ability to logically break things down and explain what's happening so us far less talented folks can understand and learn.
I had almost exactly the same thing on a prius that had been attempted to be jumpstarted in reverse polarity. Nothing aparently broken such as fuses and relays hat were easily accessible. I found it surprising that there seemed to be no reverse polarity protection for such events.
Like fr Toyotas are so advanced they don’t even let the cat heat up, instead they’ll just blow a fuse and put the car in limp mode so you don’t mess up your engine. They do a lot of little safety hacks like that so I’m confused why they would allow that to happen
@@MasterProductionsTX What I have found is that there is some voltage/ charging regulator beween the start battery and the hybrid battery that usually goes AWOL in such conditions. As you say though I don't really understand how that is not accounted for since it shouldnt be the most uncommon scenario.
You have some of the best videos on auto diagnosis on RU-vid. They are always well explained even for someone not familiar with the make or model you are working on. Thank you for producing them. Take care.
@@moestrei I sure did. Get the odd call from the shop for advice. Go back to the shop to visit and see some of the jobs and think I don’t miss it. One example is now leaking heater cores on Q5’s , windshield and dash have to come out, warranty pays 18hrs. Yep glad that’s behind me.
TLDW: The Comfort module is a control module that acts as a second layer of ignition security between other systems that rely on it as a reference. It wouldn't let the ignition circuit complete, so the car appears dead and also unable to communicate with a scan tool. The battery is good, and every interface and power supply probe (and each ground/earth) checked good while the car's main computer tried to communicate with the module. Dan added temporary power to the ignition circuit so the scan tool could finally communicate with the main computer and scan the car for error codes. All the error codes shown referenced no response from the Comfort module, despite it being able to receive a communication signal from the main computer and receive power. So the module is shorted or broken internally. The module is located in the rear right. Dan ordered a new Comfort module and programmed it off-camera. Dan replaced said Comfort module and the car now runs and communicates correctly. How much did the new module cost? Too much!!
I'm sure it's a very expensive part, but remember that the car was bought from an auction, most likely at a huge discount, which probably more than covers for the cost of the module and for Dan's labor.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Ok, but the amount really doesn't mean much. What's a week's pay for some is a bottle of wine for others, in a restaurant... Of course it's an Audi, so parts are overpriced, but who can afford an Audi won't find that extremely expensive.
Great video!, what does it mean when the ground positive & negative doesn’t connect to the module mine doesn’t light up when i connected to those wires you said in the Video in the trunk, thanks
Bruh, a couple of years ago I tried fixing the GPS antenna on my car. So I pulled a couple of fuses and relays out from the trunk and plugged them back in. It was only in the evening when I got back in my car to go to the shops when I found out that I immobilized my car. 🤦♂
My neighbor's Audi convertible experienced the same problem. Cause: Leaves built up in the drain that is hidden underneath the battery (located next to cowl in front, a leaf catcher). Rain water flooded the inside of the driver's side and the "body" module was located under the carpet. Under the carpet, in a convertible. I wonder what engineer thought that would be a good location?
The first thing the bad boys do is look for a tracker. They will unplug just about every thing resulting in loss of signal to the cars protection system.. Well done Dan !!
perfect , mijn Nederlands is niet goed maar is beter dan mijn Engels, maar ik kan je gewoon volgen en door jou werd mijn Engels beter. Bedankt voor jouw moeite✌🙏
When you connected the temporary power to the gateway module's ignition black and white wire, how did you know how much voltage to give it? Was it a simple "generic" 12v or 5v, or...? Did you have access to specs for that power demand amount, or estimate it, based on your previous knowledge and expertise? Thanks, just curious. :)
Indeed, every diagnostic is interesting and challenging - that's one of the reasons I like auto-diagnostics. You have to be a little bit a detective to find out the cause of the problem:)
Great this is exactlybwots happening with my car. Stolen returned no communication to ECU can't Reprogramme old keys. Bcm module was disconnected reconnected but same problem. Suspect bcm module gateway 😮
Hello, I have a 2008 Audi q7. Replaced battery and have not had power ever since. Replaced battery overload module, still no power. Tried jumping no power also key was in ignition when changing battery now it is stuck. Any advice would be nice!
No, it likely did not. The lock cylinder is a mechanical part. If it does not move, no electronics, coding or software in the world can make it move. You will need an appropriate key blade then that matches the mechnical "code" in the lock cylinder.
Hallo bro please make video on Audi a6 2013 model , ACC breakinc guard not avialable, almost everybody has this problem, but not working due to different causes
Hi, Dan my question is as comfort module you change had IMMO did you remove protection and immo off by some diagnostic tool or its came from main dealer plug and play and key was not operating in door lock did you bought new key. Hope i get answer from you in your free time's love your all videos'.
Hey dan , hope you will reply Facing exactly the same issue with a skoda superb mk3 1.8tsi The only difference is that the cluster wakes up as soon as the doors open , no ignition , i was able to scan the vehicle by repeating the door open close in every 5 seconds A few codes are in the start stop interface , where it's telling , ignition button implausible signal , and ecu has lost communication with all the modules , and not receiving any voltage on terminal 15 . If you can give any hints , i will be thankful.
One time I has same issue in audi a4 2014. The car drive in to workshop for the accident repair at rear side (not major). After finishing the body work car is not responsive at all. Same proceedure I followed as you done. I replaced comfort module and then car was started. But had another issue, the instrument cluster is not responding to the vehicle. Means car can start without instrument cluster. Then I checked power, ground and communication to the instrument cluster and those are fine. After I had to replace instrument cluster too. The car is absolutley fine after that. We couldn't imagine the reason for the issue. May be something went wrong with body work.
Dan... my 88 mini 1000 only fires when you release the key back from cranking, wont fire while cranking...replaced ignition switch and ig relay, coil, battery...it runs purfectly...what could it be?...i dont have a scoobie.....
My BMW F11 had the same symptoms as this Audi just a month ago. It turned out it was the Gateway Module itself that was broken in my car. Love these diagnosis videos 👏
Nice catch! I was looking for Repair Manual from AUDI A3 Hatchback (8L1) 1.6 2002. Do u have something? I need to change the crankshaft sensor but I don't know where it is.
Hell yeah...i fixed my audi A6 2006 thanks too Dan and this video, i"m am now a gateway hacker...best regards from mr.Jan Berge/J.B.carpartner in Oslo.
German sh motors allit takes to uk up is somebody tryiing to steal the motor to totally jk up the motor . tooooo much electronic sh . thats what makes them sooo undiserable to jo flolks too sensitive . . go TOYOTA . AND MAKE LIFE SIMPLE .they allow for shit like that .
Great video. Having similar issue with same car (Audi S5) which has had two Body Control Modules now but dies after a couple of weeks. Bad battery has been diagnosed, could this be a possible cause?
@ 16:51 How can you "clean" the documents of a stolen Audi and buy it very cheap? the simplest method is to steal it and intentionally damage one or more components that you can easily restore in order to greatly reduce the value of the car at resale ... then you make sure that the car is found and you still have to send a intermediary or even the end customer to buy it... and that's how you get a cheap Audi for little money with legal documents...😅
Hi I have a problem with A8 2014. The stop start. Turn the car and it's not working but turn off and start again it's fine. So turn the on and off and on again it's fine. Any idea? Thanks
It got me thinking. "HOW are new cars better than old ones?" With so much b.s. in them, they are no damn good. I would rather have a 1960's car with simple wiring. IF THE CAR GETS STOLEN, YOU KNOW IMMEDIATELY WHAT IS WRONG BECAUSE IT IS NO LONGER WHERE YOU PARKED IT. This wiring snake pit is just so you can't fix it on the side of the road or in your driveway with a hairpin and a piece of wood and foil...from gum or cigarettes. SNAPPING ARSEHOLES. I first would have started...is this the correct key? Being stolen, I got to wonder "HOW DID THEY STEAL IT??" So much for the claim of ANTI THEFT DEVICES WILL PREVENT THEFT. If key is correct and nothing works, then I break out the disk grinder and cut the car apart....only because I have another motor to install in it with simplified wiring. The only comfort module I need is "Southern Comfort" in a bottle.
I remember a sticker on the back of an A4 "I'd rather push this Audi than drive a BMW" That was true 10 years ago. Audi's are dogshit engineering now, especially performance engines.
Great approach to solve this problem. I had a hint that it could have been the immobilizer module but I had to wait until the end. Again you are GREAT at what you do.. Thanks
No wonder the customer was really happy. That's a real nice Audi. From what you showed us in the video it is in great condition. Compared to Volkswagen (2017 Golf) this one was easy. The Golf has all the modules sealed and bomb proofed, ready for the next war. What was amazing about this one, is your easy to follow explanation on the Gateway module. The basic function of the Gateway is well understood, what was not understood is the huge role it plays in passing signals to the diagnose connector (DNC).
Hi Dan I'm having problems with electronic hand brake i believe it's a fault on near side rear of car ABS fault, plus one mirror not operating just bought new battery for the car. Because left not running the car as often as i should. Any help would be appreciated Thanks Billy. Cars an Audi S8 V10 D3 meny thanks
As described in the video the gateway module is a communication hub, but it also isolates the buses from the DLC. Why? The reason is, if you tie directly into a CAN bus used for real-time control, which usually means no additional message headroom (due to minimum real-time control latencies), the scan tool traffic will delay the real-time critical data and disrupt the control loops. By using a gateway module you have a scan tool front end that can be processed and routed without disrupting a critical bus. I find myself using a test light less and less and relying on my Fluke 289 DMM more and more. If I don't use the Fluke I am using my Power Probe. If I want to introduce a load when I use the Fluke I have some non-inductive power resistors soldered to a pass through banana connector (which plugs into the Fluke) to give me a selection different load currents at nominal 12VDC or 5VDC. I really don't like a filament bulb load inrush current when the filament is cold, which I think is an unnecessary small surge. I also have the 5 VDC load power voltage adaptor for the Power Probe, which means I can introduce loads at 12VDC and 5VDC just like my selection of load resistors.
my newest car is a 1993 and my oldest is a 1980 ( toyotas and nissans) . that german electronics shit is worth shit . only thing germans did good was to invent fuel injection I mean DB-601 pre war , bosch injection only perfected by japanese industry , Japan the best . I d trust more a Lada than a Audi... even a chinese built car
Well Dan you can check the computers by activating the emergency flashers. step on the brakes, and hold the bright lamps switch in the flash position and the run your diag. It wont work with the cheap scan tools because you have to enter the vin manually
Hey Dan, thank you for a great video , but how did you manage to 'recode' that comfort module, as these newer cars have SVM, and software like RossTech's VCDS,is quite useless!! we are having a great deal of problems with VW/AUDI newer vehicles, from 2014 onwards, any help would be appreciated, thanks 🙂
You have communication on the CAN lines at the module. How did/would you determine if the communication you can see is coming from the module or from the car? You can unplug the connector from the module but as far as i can tell this still does not prove the module is not responding. Any clarification is appreciated.
Dan the man - maybe you can help? 2004 Mercedes SL55 clamp meter (blu toothed to phone) shows a 2.6amps draw on 'convenience' battery in trunk with nothing on car locked. Pulling all fuses behind seats didnt make any difference. No appreciable mV across any of the fuses in the front. In your experience, where would you start your search for mystery drain? Battery control module? Voltage regulator? Any tips advice from the master would just be amazing. Mike
