Just bought a 2002 Triumph America and this is one of the things I'm tackling. Better than a Haynes service manual any day. Thank you for taking the time in keeping us safe. Well done sir.
Thanks mate. As soon as I'm done with this, I have to get my wife's 1978 Triumph Bonnie up to snuff. Just looking for a trustworthy cylinder puncher so I can put 20 over pistons in in it. I had some shops that did that up north but down her everyone is into crotch rockets or HD's. I'm more comfortable with old school Limey bikes, the new computer crap sucks to say the least. I appreciate you mate.@@Moonfleet41
Thank you for taking the time to do these videos they are a huge benefit made life easier. Keep up the amazing job appreciate you sharing your expertise.
Del, Greeting again from Huntington Beach, CA. Thanks for taking the time to do this video. My front pads are right there needing to be changed and with your video I am confident to change mine. Appreciate these as always, JimmyO 15' Thruxton Ace
Great advice again, I did the clean up of the pistons etc... before putting it back, brake cleaner and some rags and pipe cleaners and it was dirty, the pins in the drill really worked well, I did it without a vice.
Just changed the front pads on my T100. Your vid was a great help . Looking forward to having a crack at the rear ones. Thanks so much for these vids they give me confidence to have a go and a real sense of satisfaction
Thank you for making these videos. I am getting a 06 Speedmaster ready for my oldest grandson.We are taking a road trip this summer. Y’all have helped us so much.Thank y’all.
Thank you most kindly Sir, we're honoured that the videos inspire you... thank you for support, ride safe all and have a wonderful trip, all the best, Del
Brilliant video. This has given me the confidence to clean my brake calipers which I need to get done on my Bonnie SE, Fingers crossed I get the job done with your help thanks man 👏🏻
Thanks very much, Delboy. Beautifully put together and informative demonstration. It gave me back some confidence and enabled me to tackle the job easily, despite arthritic fingers. They didn't have decent affordable gloves in the seventies
Hi Colin, Thank you for your message, its kind of you to get in touch, and we really appreciate your support, Im glad the video was able to help you out. happy new year and ride safe.. Del.
Brilliant! As a newb rider your simple and clear explanation has inspired me to tackle this seemingly easy maintenance job on my own. and that drill tip!! subscribed.
This was an excellent video. I just recently purchased my first triumph America! I needed to change the brakes and I have never done it before. This video made it very simple. Thank you, looking forward to watching more of your videos. Cheers, from Pennsylvania.
on BLAST Thanks mate, im glad the video can help you, its good to do these things yourself, gets you closer in touch with your bike.. Good luck with it, and please feel free to drop me a line if you get stuck...
Del, you're a shining asset to the riding community. Thanks very much for taking the time to do these vids. I'm going to be lowering my Yamaha Stryker with a set of dog bones soon. Can't wait to see the suspension set upon the Bonny. Thomas
Well done Thomas, glad you're getting stuck in to your own bike... the Bonnie forks will be fitted out with a set of Thruxton progressive springs and lowered 1/2" to match the back... video will be up by the weekend! Thanks for kind comments mate, Del
Glad you mentioned your tip on cleaning the brake pins. Noticed you used 320 wed/dry. For my street and race bikes, I use 1500 wet/dry on brake pins and axles - makes them slippery like glass. Grease the axles, but not the pins. Pads never bind and wheels glide. Great video.
Another happy Triumph owner in America. After watching the video it took me about an hour and it was done. I am slow and old, being 72 I needed a little mechanical help getting the pistons back to flush. Also on my 2014 America LT, the spring in the bottom has a bent piece that contacts the slider guides, pushed it down with allen wrench and it slid right in. Thanks again for your tips, tricks and how to. Don in Arizona
Hi there Don, good to hear from you sir, and thank you for taking the time to comment... im glad the video could help you out... its great to hear that you're taking care of the bike yourself, it makes ownership so much more fulfilling and rewarding to know you maintain your own ride... Take care my friend and ride safe... Del.
Hi Del, Just wanted to thank you for the helpful tip on freeing up the stuck piston in my brake caliper. It worked like a charm. Front pads snugged up in about 40 strokes. Now on to the rear brakes! Riding season has arrived so need to finish soon. Thanks again! Frank
Bought a '14 Thruxton last summer and have spent much of the morning watching several of your videos. Very well done. Penny's a great videographer and your presentation if excellent. I will certainly refer back to these in future. Thank you. Daniel J. Roe, Fort Worth, Texas
djrtx9429 Hi Daniel, thank you for your kind comments and taking the time to watch sir, and i hope the videos can help you with your own bike...have a great summer and ride safe.. Del.
Just want to say thanks for video - very helpful and informative. I didn't need to replace the pads on my Thruxton, but a clean up was needed. I did the front and rear brakes at the weekend. Both were pretty grotty - cleaned up the pins with a drill. Applied copper grease to the backs of the pads which stopped the squealing on the back which was annoying me since I got the back pads changed by the main dealer. I used to do all my own maintenence when I was younger - now I will be doing a lot more thanks to you.
Aidan Hogarty Hi Aiden, glad to hear the video could help you out...and good on you got gettting stuck in yourself mate... feels good doesn't it.. thanks for watching, and ride safe on the Thruxton... all the best.. Del.
This video might have saved me a couple hundred dollars at the local shop! I plan on swapping my rear brake pads this winter for the upcoming season. Appreciate the upload Del, safe riding!
Another "Very Important" task complete, well done as always !!! I really hope the viewers take heed to what you are telling them, this is SAFETY !!!! Great job brother... Ride Safe....
Thanks you brother, I appreciate your sentiment... you're right about safety, can't take too much time with the component that keeps you outta the hedge! RSMF, Del
Hi Del. I'm sure lots of people in Oz are watching you. You are very good at explaining things and a big help. I've been watching you for some time now even when I had a Harley Sportster you were a big help. I have now have a T100 Bonneville and its a fantastic bike. We live in Queensland on the Sunshine Coast and even married an English girl from London for 42 years ha ha. If you ever have a trip to Oz come and look us up. Were 1 hour north of Brisbane. The Gold Coast/ Sunshine Coast are the best places to come for a holiday. Stay safe, stay upright. Cheers mate Ted and Jeanette Gardner
Hello Ted and Jeanette, how wonderful to receive your amazing message, we're so happy to know that the videos have helped you out and that you've enjoyed them! We have it on the list to come to Oz for a holiday some day, my brother lives in Maryborough and I've many cousins in Coomera and they have a restaurant there in town, so plenty of reasons to visit, so you never know... but we'll be sure to let you know, would be great to catch up, and Jeanette could reminiscence about London, a place we both know well... keep enjoying that sunshine, and ride safe, all the very best, Del & Paulax
Grazie per le gentili parole di Renzo, ..... Im felice si può fare uso del video, li carica in modo che i piloti possono risparmiare qualche soldo e imparare cose nuove. La sua buona sentire da voi tutta la strada da Italia, Ciao, Del
Great vid Del, full of useful tips as ever! I actually replaced the rear pads on my Speed triple yesterday and the previous owner had mangled the heads of the pins to hell. I had to hammer in a torx bit (not the best idea I know, but I needed it sorted asap). Goes to show they definitely don't need leaning on! Ride safe mate.
You are so right mate, they tighten themselves up even if you do them up hand tight... and why they use allen heads, I've no idea! They are so prone to seizing, you just need a nice flat head one side with the other end poking out and a split pin through it... they are only screwed in to make them look posh and flush!
Great to hear mate, congratulations on your first repair project, am sure you'll agree, it's great to take care of your bike personally, gives you a greater pride of ownership!
100% agree with that!! And it also takes the fear away of “what do I do if I need to do this by myself on long trips”. knowing how your bike works gives you peace of mind :)
Great to hear Ted, and good to hear from you all the way from Oz, we hope you're all bearing up down under at this difficult time, you guys have had your fair share of bad luck what with the dreadful fires before this, never a stronger test of the great Aussie spirit aye? Keep smiling, keep in touch, Del
Hi Del. Spent many hours watching your vids. I love the way you present. Love the wealth of experience you have and share. Love the relationship you have with the lovely Penny, and your good friends and fellow bikers. I've been riding bikes for about 30 years, started with a FS1E (like everyone lol), fallen off every early bike in every way possible, riding in ALL weathers, and ended up with a bullet-proof ZZR600 which I clocked up 100,000 miles on without anything more than housekeeping and wear n tear items. I'm now seriously considering a GSR750 (naked bike), which looks perfect for an old fatty like me lol. Even though I've done all work myself on all bikes (money restraints of course!), including engine re-builds, it's been very reassuring that I've taught myself to do things in the same way you seem to tackle everything, though like EVERYONE that watches your vids, I have picked up some little gems on the way from you!. I'm an old-school biker that ALWAYS stops when I see a bike on the side of the road, and have helped countless bikers along the way...It's the only way to be. Sorry for waffling, I really just wanted to say how much I've enjoyed watching DOZENS of your vids, and how, without even having any contact with you, i can almost say you already feel like a friend...A fellow old fashioned keen friendly biker...Who goes that extra mile dedicating his (and Penny's) time to educating others and encouraging biking. Well done! Thank you! And long may it continue. All the very best. Ride Safe. Martin.
Hello Martin... what a fantastic message brother, thank you so much for making our day and taking the time to send such a lovely comment! We're clearly kindred spirits and from an era when biker's were a little more of a brotherhood... but these days it's changed a bit, there's now sister's involved (excellent!) and the really good news is that nothing's actually changed, it's all just gone online lol! Which brings me to the most important bit, why aren't you on our forum?! Open this: bikers.boards.net/ and join and become a member and then get involved with some of the other amazing people we've met through YT... we all meet up at least once a month, so check out the ride outs section and see if you can be with us at some point, as it would be great to meet ya fellah! Ride safe, see you on the forum, Del & Penny
Moonfleet41 one great thing bout you guys... Replying to messages. Well done. And a lovely touch my fella. I will now join your forum etc...I've only just subscribed to RU-vid tonight, just so that I could send you a message of support and appreciation. It's hardly surprising you get so many views on your vids.. I really think you pack up work, and have your own slot on one of the multitude of tv channels. I'm sure there's a gap in a market here! I've not owned a bike for a few long years now, but I reckon I will be back on 2 wheels within a couple of months from now...Just looking at bikes. For once I can afford a NEW one, so choosing carefully. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply, and i will join your forum, and hopefully get to meed you and the aptly named idiot collective in the very near future :-)
Thanks Del,just got in from a ride on the Thruxton/Meteor and guess what? Yup, I need rear pads. Ordering now. Much appreciated. Ian, Putnam Valley NY.
Nice Vid Del, it's strange the different ways we get taught things, I was always taught to remove the lid of the master cylinder in case someone topped up the brake fluid as the pads wore away eg:- a garage, Good Vid buddy RSM8.
Thats still sound advice if the rez is a cast alloy one you can see in... but the beauty of clear plastic pots is you can see how low it is and watch it back up to the top... !
great job as always hope you lot hand great ride and day at the ace café tride to come as it only 4 mile away but had a oil leak problem after top end rebild on my sportster keep up the good work
Oh no mate, you must have been sick, so close you could have got the bus lol! Would have been great to meet you, may be you can meet us at the next event in Swindon on 11th May... check out our forum: bikers.boards.net/
All your videos are really educative for any bonnie owner for sure! Got my brake pads changed at the service shop recently. I realised that I could probably prevent some inadvertent brake application and hopefully extend the life of my brake pads if it were sitting a little lower and weren't in a position where my foot inevitably rests on the brake pedal. But for some reason the guys at the service shop said it could not be adjusted. Was looking through your videos hoping for a solution and saw one for the Harley, but was wondering if you have any specific suggestions for the T100. Thanks again for the great videos!!
Great vid Del, I haven't been watching much youtube lately and I miss your videos! Just been focusing so much on my own channel...I'm sure you understand that feeling better than I ever will. That is an interesting location for the brake caliper...seems to me like there is no protection that way from road grime and especially rocks and stuff from gravel roads. At least on top of the swing arm like alot of bikes they have a little more protection. Regardless great vid as usual. I don't let ANYONE work on my bike but I wouldn't hesitate for a second to let you work on it. Ride safe man!
Hi Jake, thanks buddy, thats very kind, and yeah, daft place for the shock and they even sell a bracket to mount it on top....seems to me like a sales ploy..lol Good luck with your channel mate, i know how it is indeed, i never get time to watch the people i used to follow so much.. but there you go, we make it we want it aye.... take care and keep at it..
One final tip: take a wrench and check the tightness of the brake hose bolt. Manipulating the caliper while removing it and reinstalling it can slightly move the hose where it contacts the caliper and slightly loosen the bolt. It just takes a second to make sure it’s tight.
Cheers MoonFleet41 really enjoyed watching your video's have subbed. Looking forward to moving house in the next few weeks so I have the space in my new garage at the moment its just full. Its going to be a man cave at the new house!! :)
good one again matey, the only thing i do extra is pop out the caliper slider and clean / re- silicone grease up the pins and rubber boots, slight ocd creeping in there. rsmf Ade
I'm considering doing my own brakes for the first time ever and don't have much experience with DIY jobs. I've been a tad frustrated with the other videos because they are poorly done: skipping steps, poor camera angles, poor articulation. For a complete newbie like myself, your video was crystal clear in what I have to do. I'm nervous but think I will give it a try. Thank you for this great video.
+Katherine Park Thank you so much Katherine, its nice to have won your trust with this....take your time, and drop me a line if you get stuck, and just make sure you check and double check everything once its done...then take a careful test ride before you put the bike back into full use... Good luck, and happy new year, all the best.. Del.
wow just wow - so good ! your video's are amazing ... Hey quick question l What do i do if one of my pistons is stuck and when i press the brakes one piston comes out and the other does not ? Any Tip Delboy ?
nice job! I've got carpal tunnel syndrome & arthritis & I don't have the strength in my hands anymore to push the pistons back in so I use the old pads & a cloth on the back of the caliper and use a c clamp to press them back in. Once they're in I slide in the new pads after removing the c clamp & old pads If your disc is grooved like that how bad do you let them get before you replace them?
Thank you my friend!...I used your video to do my first brake pad replacement and the job was successful.... Replaced the front pads today in half the time....had a little trouble getting the springs back in after they fell out but luckily your video showed me where they went.... The pistons were VERY difficult to push in...is there a tool for that?? Thanks you saved me $40!
Hi Thomas, Glad to hear we could save you some money... i use a large pair of grips to squeeze the pistons back if they are stiff, but wrap some cloth under the jaws to protect the paint on the caliper body.... Ride safe my friend, all the best. Del.
Bless you Mark... thanks for that... that reminds, whereabouts are you in the world, and isn't it about time you joined our forum: bikers.boards.net/ Del
I'm near wolverhampton Del. I am on the forum but I've only done one post (In the introduce yourself thread) as I'm busy with work (BP) and blood bikes (shropshire and stafforshire blood bikes) at the moment. Shifts mean I get in at 10pm and after that I just go into monster chill mode lol. Got a hole in the bandits exhaust now too, just hope its cheap to repair as its right next to the join between the downpipes and link pipe
Hi buddy, I probably only covered that in the TEC Tracker Exhaust video we did, as you need to take it off to mount the new exhaust, so maybe that one can help you in the Scrambler Video Playlist??... Good luck with it, hope it goes well for you!
Hey There Del, thanks for putting these videos out. I've learned alot from them and do appreciate the visual guidance. I recently changed out my rear brake pads and they're squealing quite a bit; is there a way to reduce or get rid of the noise or will that go away after some use? Thanks.
Hi mate, If your pads don't have the stainless steel shims behind the pads, then the commonly accepted method in the motor trade is to apply a very small amount of copper grease to the back of the brake pads, and this will vastly reduce the high frequency vibration that make the squealing sound.. but not much, just a very thin smear of it, and only to the back of the pads. .. Hope that helps buddy.
Great video, Delboy. So I took the calipers apart to put in some new pads because mine are starting to sound really squeaky. After really looking at the pads currently on my bike, however, it doesn't look like there has been much wear on them at all. In fact, they almost look brand new. Any idea why I might be having a squeaky break issue?
Hi Craig, yes mate, can help you with that ! Don't go replacing them, they are fine... sometimes the surface of the pad gets 'glazed' and stops gripping... this is often done by prolonged light use, not your fault, just wear and tear mate... all you need to do is drop them out, give the surface of the pads where it's 'shiney' a light sand over with some wet n' dry , just to break the glaze off it (don't breathe the dust)... and then when you re-install the pads, smear a layer of CopperSlip on the BACK of the brake pad plate.... this will stop the pad making that squeal by damping out the high frequency vibration, or juddering, that's caused..... don't spread on any more that you would butter on toast, and DON'T get any CopperSlip on the pad face, as this will compromise your braking force..... get that right, and it will stop them squealing straight away... hope that helps !
As always an informative video thanks, I was thinking of fitting an up and over rear caliper hanger to my scrambler what you reckon to lease del? Worth the initial shell out and would it be a do able DIY for a returning biker with reasonable ability ? Could do with you doing a walk through video, nice one be good Jamie
Hi Jamie...i tend to have a practical thinking to this kind of mod...its pointless for easthetic reasons and nobody really notices it...so its only for the purpose of keeping the caliper from filling up with crap...so if you're gonna ride all year, or go off road... id say its almost essential...(Bandits have the same underslung fitting and its the stupidest idea since black Hi-Viz)...so hell yeah.. get one fitted... but if your bike never goes out in the crap and dirt...then why waste your money...it'd be like buying waterproofs for a summers day... so its all down to your usage and whether you 'need' such a mod....and yeah, really easy to fit buddy...drop the back wheel out and the existing bracket falls out...then just bolt the caliper to the new over-bracket and fit the wheel back in.. anyone with common sense can do it... Id love to make a video of that, but i have to buy these things first and so many existing expences take priority first...you know how it is..lol... Good luck with it matey, and let us know how you get on... Cheers Del.
Great vid del, love the drill trick!!! Would you recommend and grease or all in 1 spray on pistons? Just cleaned out calipers on 2 year old gsxr 750 seemed to had 2 each side that were stuck. Brakes feel great now after it all.
No grease or oil of any kid of any kind on the pistons, it will melt and run on to the pad faces... and also, will serve as a fly paper and attract dust to jam them up again... whip them out, buff them up like a new pin, and lube them back in to place with a smear of fresh brake fluid only... if there are a little tight, you can use the 'merest suggestion' pf a little red rubber lube to help first assembly, but nothing more! Del
Moonfleet41 cheers mate. Ive always used a bit of copper grease on the back of the pads. Just surprised about the new bikes sticky pistons is all. Thanks again mate keep the vids coming
Nice one Del, Penny's Golden Chariot is going to look amazing for her maiden voyage :-) I'll think you'll find Del, your toothbrush is used for those tough stains around the toilet bowl ;-)
Hi del. Ive also got a mag wheel bonnie. Does your trolley jack that you use in this vid just slide straight under it with ease? I have to put wood under the wheels and side stand to raise it up as the bike is just too low for my jack to fit under. All the best Sam
Hi Delboy my 2015 Newchurch only has a single disc, I have changed the pads but the brake is rubbish worse when riding 2 up, you got any ideas on making it better? I was looking at a 4 pot caliper but not cheap and a change of mastercylinder
Questionn!!! Can you rotate the pistons in the brakes ( as in is it physicall possible to spin them by hand )when your brushing them to get the dirt of the other side, as theres no point cleaning one when the other side of the cylinders still rusty???
+NineG ANSWER: No you should not be able to, at least not by hand, if they were that loose they would leak... the need for a fluid seal, under pressure, requires them to be snug in their sockets... if you use a toothbrush and pump the pistons out until you just see the dust seals, then you should be able to get the toothbrush in underneath, however//// if you actually have rust on them (which won't actually be rust, as they are stainless steel, it will be just dirt) ...then it's time to strip them and clean the pistons on the bench properly
Del, i can see that the bike weight looks like its resting on the down pipes on your hydraulic jack. is that advised? i didnt want to do that with mine but the pipes are slightly lower than the frame. what are your thoughts?
Yeah, Del, will do. I did pump these brakes at least a hundred times with not much result. I will follow your lead and see if some dirt has cocked up the recalcitrant piston and let you know. BTW, I purchased some DOT 4 brake fluid today just in case. factory manual is a bit vague on use of synthetic though. Any thoughts? Best, Frank
Hi Frank, I have used DOT4 fluid in both bikes with no issues, the hoses and internal brake parts are the same quality as brand new sports Triumphs..so it should be fine to use... if there was any problem, then rather then be vague, it would have warnings against... hope that helps.. good luck. Del.
Great video, Del! Went exactly as planned until trying to get the pistons up & back into place. I had to clamp the free piston to get the other one out enough to clean. After some scrubbing and brake cleaner, I had an hour long fight to get them both back into place. One of them was no sweat but the other is still sticking out. Even tried using grips with a rag, maybe I need a larger grip like you used for the Tiger front brake cleaning? Brakes were bled last April, only 2500 miles since then. Any help please, thanks!
Hi mate, sorry to hear that, sometimes when you've cleaned them with brake cleaner, that stuff can have an incredible 'drying' effect on the rubber and metal interface, so a little lubricant can work wonders ...pump them back out again and aply the thinnest smear of copper grease, or lithium grease, around the wall of the piston and then push them in a fraction, then back out, etc., working them in a bit at a time so you insert the grease inside the seals... it won't do any harm as long as you just use a TINY amount and wipe any excess away that builds up once they are pushed right back in... take the cap off your resevoir as well, and this releases the hydraulic pressure in the system
Sri Rao That's a perfect way to do it, but don't apply too much force and if you are using a C-clamp, put the old pad in and bear down against that (and not the piston itself), that way it pushed both pistons back equally.... if that still doesn't get it, it's time for a re-build
Hey Del, just wanted to say thanks on the advice. Used a thin wooden ruler with the C-clamp and both pistons went in. A tiny smear of anti seize too. Thank a billion!
Del, Many thanks for this and all your videos. I just started replacing the brake pads on my '06 Bonnie (6,000 miles). Followed your guidelines to the letter, starting with the front. Everything went smoothly, until I tried to pump the brake lever to seat the pads in. Nothing. Pumped and pumped....and pumped, but no resistance. So I took off the front caliper and pumped the lever to see if the pistons were moving. One did (the lower one) and the other moved, but retracted when I released the front brake lever. It feels just like I have air in the lines. Is this possible?? Or is there something else I should check?? I have changed brakes for years on many different vehicles and have also done complete brake jobs on cars, so I am familiar with bleeding, but never encountered something like this when doing a pad change. This is my first pad replacement on this Bonnie, so wonder if I am missing something..... Appreciate any help. Absolutely love your instructional videos!
Hi Frank, good to hear from you... As long as all you did was push the pistons back to put the new pads in and you didn't break in to the hydraulic system, or cause any fluid to leak out anywhere, then they may just need properly pumping out... each pump of the lever only moves the pads by about 25thou, so they may as many as 30-40 pumps to pump them back out... check they are all clean and not sticking due to an accumulation of brake dust, it may be that when you pushed the extended pistons back in, you pushed some dirt in to the seals by mistake, which is pretty common... and this is jamming them up and causing just one to move only... so if you only have one moving, then the trick is to drop the pads out again, use a small soft implement, like a small plastic screwdriver handle or something, to wedge the healthy moving piston in place and stop it moving, then all hydraulic force will be focused on the stuck one... and that should free it off.... irrigate the whole thing with lots of brake cleaner and an old toothbrush, then grease the sides of the pistons with a smear of copper slip, and then push them both back in and try again... hope that helps, buddy, let us know how you get on!
Hi Del, firstly, just stumbled across your videos and thank god I did, have been looking for some easy to follow down to earth guidance for tinkering! Especially useful as I own a 2003 Bonnie T100 and you have Penny's to demonstrate with, or your Scrambler of course. Anyway... I'm about to change the front brake pads as I've been getting a pulse like feeling through the brake lever when braking with the front brake, and its not stopping me so well anymore. I figure the pads need changing, and maybe the fluid. I was wondering if you could do something about bleeding brakes, step by step? So after cleaning the calliper as per your videos, new pads go in and re-assemble everything. Then bleed the brakes? And how? Hope this is possible, sorry if its a stupid question! Thanks again for your videos, great work, keep it up! Ben P.S - I can't wait to polish my brake pad retaining pins with my drill, hahaha, great tip!
Ben Hensley Hi Ben...ive always kept a policy of not making videos to order, im sure you can imagine we get so many on a daily basis....but i have already covered bleeding a clutch, and its exactly the same prceedure. Have a look through the back catalogue and let me know how you get on!
Moonfleet41 Sorted! The new pads went in and I bled the system using a Mityvac bleeder. The bike stops a lot better than before. I haven't however managed to get rid of the pulsating through the brake lever. I was wondering if this meant the brake disc itself was perhaps not perfectly straight, or if it meant the cable was old and needed changing. Could you possibly enlighten me on what else can cause a throbbing feeling through the brake lever, when we know its not worn pads. The other thing I noticed was that the new pads that went in, Sintered Brembo pads, were not fatter than the old organic looking ones that came out. Is this normal? I pushed the pots back as far as they go to help seat the new (what I thought would be thicker) pads but I really didn't need it as they were thin. Thanks again, I can't wait to do some more maintenance and things to my bike. Your videos are so helpful!
Ben Hensley Hi Ben, The sintered pads i used in my Tiger were a lot thicker...were your old pads worn down almost to the metal, or did they have miles left in them?.. the usual thickness for any pad material is for it to be just a bit thicjker than the actual steel backing plate itself... and as for the pulsing lever... it is more than likely to be a distortion in the disc if its a fixed and non floating one... if you can lift the front wheel, spin it and check for runout with a screw driver held against a solid fixed item like an axle stand... it should have no runout at all on a fixed plate disc... if its semi floating, and has a slight oscilation, then it could be jammed bobbins which can just be cleaned out in the normal way..!
Really great video. I'm looking for some new pads for my kawasaki, but i'm unsure about what brand to get. i've heard horror stories about bad quality pads. What should i avoid, and what's good to get, when i'm scrolling ebay for new pads? :?
Søren Made Thats good.. the Organic pads are softer and have a little less bite, but are kinder to your discs....the HH pads will give you more bite and feel, but long term will play harder on your discs and wear them a little quicker...its a trade off based one what performance you want... i have used the organic pads as they are fine for every day.
A quick question? I have just changed the rear pads on my Bonny inspired by you video, the pads appear a bit tight on the disc, I have not ridden the bike yet is this normal until they are bedded in?
Hi John, That's nothing unusual mate, as you fitted new pads, they're thicker than the old worn out ones, so you'll have had to push the caliper pistons back further to accommodate them ... if there was any brake dust or road grime buildup on the exposed sides of the caliper pistons, then you may have pushed that dirt back under the dust seals, and that can make them jam up a little... it's always best to clean off the pistons before you push them back, but if you didn't, no drama, try dropping the caliper off, and pump the pedal a few times to push the pistons out a bit... then spray them with some brake cleaner, an old tooth brush can help to agitate any grime, and then blast them off again so they're all clean... then simply push them back again and refit the caliper... it may be a little stiff still, but give it a ride and test the back brake a few times and it'll free off nicely... Hope that helps mate.. good luck with it.. Del.
Hi Del, thanks for the reply and support mate much appreciated, I cleaned the pistons and brake housing as per your video when I fitted the pads 😀, keep up the good work mate, I am going to take a look at the front pads now, as I suspect they may need replacing as well.
Del. Nice easy job but I still watched it. So now I've learnt that little trick with the drill. So simple, yet so good. Cheers mate! Quick question Del. On a totally different matter.. First service the Other day.(500 Mile) I presume the Old Oil was the Proper Dinosaur mineral stuff. This time round they stuck in Castrol Power Racing 1 Full-Synth. Not too early for that? Hey, they are the dealers. I presume they know what they are doing but just wanted to ask. Cheers mate. Hi Penn xxx ;-)
Oh no, you're joking! I don't believe it! You mean they put fully synth Castrol Power 1 in your bike?? What on earth did they do that for?? You know what that means mate? Now you have to ride your bike like this EVERYWHERE! "City is my Playground" starring Ernie Vigil Seriously mate, the Triumph dealers are brilliant, they obviously know what they're doing and you can trust them implicitly with your baby! An important point mate, you can run a bike in too long and 'baby' it too much, so now it's run in, and you've got your first service out the way, just ride it like you stole it! They absolutely love it, it does them the world of good and makes them a better bike in the long run! Now watch the video again... and we expect to see you arrive at Swindon in full power slide mode lol! Go kick it's arse big boy! Del (and just for you from Penny .....XXX!)
Moonfleet41 As it Happens Del, today was that day :-) I was never that gentle, I prefer the harder run in and I do appreciate the advice mate. Thanks!! Hah, Ernie is awesome :-)
I'd respectfully suggest checking the condition of the caliper slide pins as well for corrosion and lubrication. Have had 3 bikes and one car where rear brakes have seized or near enough seized to be problematic. Only takes a few seconds once brakes are stripped to the level you have shown.
Inn removing them by hand, you grip and maul the caliper about, and you'll instantly feel that smooth glide as the mounting bracket slides in and out on it's pins... also they're inside rubber boots, so I just pull them back to check for a nice oily clean finish, and you're right, it's important to keep the whole thing moving free for safe brake operation!
Нey Delboy's garage. I'm trying to change brake pads on my Bonneville SE and I have a problem. I just can't push those pistons back to place pads properly. Pistons in calipers are in ok condition and there is no rust on them. Old brake pads have a nice even wear on them so i assume that problem is not in pistons itself?
@@Moonfleet41 Can you please tell what mm key should I use for rear brake caliper bolts? I thought it's 13mm at front and back calipers, but it turned out that 13mm is too small for rear caliper.
I just did my rear brake two months ago based on this video. Nice job ! My only problem is that my rear rotor was getting really hot even if I do not use it. Possibly the new pads are rubbing against the rotor while the bike is moving. I did not do anything to the fluid as you noted. Though the reservoir looks to be to the upper line now. The original pads I took off looked to be organic. The new ones I put on are the sintered copper ones. These new cintered-copper pads seem really fat.. thicker than the organic pads, but the part number for the EBC brake is what is listed by Triumph. Maybe there is a narrower rear pad that can be used? Anyone have this problem?
NO Biff mate...its nothing to do with your pads...as long as they are the correct ones fo your bike then they're fine...they will be thicker because they are new.. the old ones will be worn down, so obviously thinner...when ever you fit new pads you have to push the istons back into the caliper a bit to get them in..and that jams on the dirt rim they collect... the problem is that daft design on the back caliper...Triumph see fit to hang it UNDER the swing arm so it can collect all the crap and then jam up....have a look at the latest video we made today, it'll show you how to clean your caliper and irradicate that rubbing... link here buddy.. Delboy's Garage, Triumph Tiger, Winter Brake Clean . Good luck Del.
Hi Thanks for responding... I will check that video out. But when I say the rear pad is thicker... I am comparing it to a NEW front pad. Just seems way thicker than the front. Don't know if this is expected. I have thoroughly cleaned the "cack on the gumline" as you elegantly showed us. It's crazy the amount of dirty water that a small bucket of water cleans out of those calipers....
Hi Del, my dad has just part-exchanged his tiger 955i for a 1998 Yamaha V-MAX with only 16,000 miles on the clock. What are your views on V-MAXES and are there any problems with them to look out for?
Hi George, the V-Max is an absolute fairground ride, they are a glorious motorcycle and a total legend of the motorcycle world, they're not fragile mechanically and have no real running issues, but being an early Yamaha, they're paint and coating finishes are not the best so they do suffer with corrosion, but that's just a case of keeping on top of it! Other than that, George, it's just a case of eliminating the imbalances in the design ... with all that gloroius grunt, there is wonderful potential to make a breathtaking motorcycle... fit some tyres that grip, get some calipers that will stop you and sort out the sloppy forks with some nice proggressive springs... there's a fair few more ponies under the skin if you Stage 1 it, but don't bother with a Stage 7 tune 'unique to V-Maxes'... as it makes them a bit un-refined and rough to ride... Lastly mate, tell your Dad to watch himself, they can bite you in the arse if you don't reepct them, specially a proper Canadian V-boost model!
07 is fine mate, a pair of brake pads in a reasonable environment won't deteriorate too much in that time, but as they are so cheap, why not just drop in a new set... and if you want a little more 'bite' you could try the EBC HH pads!
I have bought performance pads but i was waiting because they really didn't need it but after watching this and seeing how easy it is it sounds like a good project this weekend lol thanks for all the help and great videos
got front brake sqeeck like mad after cuple brakeings found the pivot shaft bent and made a new, noe it started again !! eny tip? should i sand the rotor?
no !! its way more then that !!! its so loud you can hear me a mile away!! its not the normal iiii nd ten your stopped ,it rings you ear!! really loud , but it breaks good and with no vibes.
Hi Moonfleet. Can you help please with any advice on how to remove a brake pad securing pin, where the 5 mil hex key fitting has been slightly rounded off and the key won't grip properly without slipping. I've got one of the pins out with the 5 mil key, but the other is proving a real pain and I don't want to completely round off the inner section. Thanks
Hi Stephen... have you tried tapping a torx bit in that allen key hole? The sharp edges of a torx bit will often grip and get a 'bite' on it when the allen key won't... try a T27 torx bit and it should tap in with a light hammer so it jams in the hole, you are looking to actually jam it in there, it won't fit in there loosely and if it does, use a T30 and make sure you jam it in tight with a few taps of a hammer... then it should break free, Good luck with it mate, hope that works, all the best, Del
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Del, just a quick note to say that your advice worked a treat and I managed to get the stubborn brake pin out with a torx, as suggested. Bothfront and rear brakes now replaced with EBC Double H Sintered pads and calipers given a thorough clean. Thanks again for your help, which is greatly appreciated mate.
Hi del... Need your expert help. My Bonnie had done 2500km but off late I have an issue with my rear brakes. When I ride in heavy traffic my rear brake suddenly fails and the pedal drops all the way down If I give a few minutes to cool.it's back up again. The brakes are otherwise fine . I've got the brakes inspected by the service centre but they couldn't sort it. My bike runs on EBC pads. What should I do.
That sounds very odd Kumara... as i have not seen your bike, what did the 'Service Centre' guys say?, did they ride the bike and feel for the fault, or just do a visual check.. when was the brake fluid last changed..? or is the bike almost new as you said it has just 2500km.?
Hi del my bike is 2 years old I bought it 2nd hand 6 months back. This is the second time the fault has happened. Service centre guys inspected the bike bledbthe brake fluids and cleaned the pads. Even I find it odd. Brakes are absolutely normal there's no fading at all but suddenly it fails and the pedal drops down . If I allow the bike to cool for few minutes the brakes become normal. This happens only with my rear brakes. What should I do. . The triumph service here in India is not having knowledgeable technicians.
Hi again Kumara, the only reason that a disc brake can fade away when it gets very hot is if there is lots of water in the system, do you think they used proper good quality, fresh brake fluid... ? if it was very old, and has got waterlogged, then that could be causing it..! i would suggest to check all the linkages and connection on the pedal, but you say it 'comes back' after is cools down...which makes me think maybe there is lots of water in the brake hose..?.. why not buy some fresh brake fluid that comes in a sealed, new container and bleed it through again yourself..?
