Great tutorial! I am glad you mentioned the possible chain tension change when you tighten the axle nut. Some bikes are more prone to this than others. Cheers from Louisiana!
Great tips, did not know about the marker paint trick. Have been watching your videos before I started motovlogging and still look forward to them appearing in my feed :)
Delboy, I've checked out your vids several times before. Wanted to let you know that these videos are great and have been very helpful for me and my '07 Scrambler. New tires (Metlzer Tourance) and a front 19T sprocket are the latest changes. Adjusting chain tension is a must and this video is my 'go by'. Thanks again.
Thanks for the reminder. I need to do this as well. Ive got the first 2k on the bike, and have done little more than lube the chain, change the oil (after my first 500mi), clean the breaks, and wash the bike. It's looking like a rainy weekend, so I'm going to park the bike in the kitchen after a wash and get all my maintenance done. Also we sign the papers for our new house today, it has a HUGE (can fit 4 cars) work shop. It needs a bit of fixing up, but I cant wait to have a proper shop again!
What! 4 car workshop! Now I'm just jealous! Well done for taking on your own maintenance, and I wonder if the new people in your house will know what their kitchen will be used for lol!
If anyone is having a new one it will be me. Just put the additional spacers on top of the Ikon front fork springs (after using the springs this last year or so without them) in the hope it will pre load the springs a touch and prevent the front end nodding its head when I grab a load of brake in those nasty situations that happen all to often these days. Was going to have a ride today, but the weather changed to full on intermittent rain, so that idea got rapidly changed.
Thanks for the video guys, easy to follow, clear and massively helpful, especially for a newbie. The advice is really appreciated and I look forward to your future videos. All the best. Rob
Thanks Rob, it is for riders like yourself that we make these videos in the first place... we're glad it helps you, please drop us a line any time you need a tip, ride safe, mate, Del & Penny
The honor is all mine Uncle Milo... welcome back and great to have you watching...we are not worthy.... hope you are both well, and enjoying life over there in Cali... keep safe buddy... all the best.. Del & Penny. .
Moonfleet41 I've been here the whole time.. sometimes I may not comment cause you know how it gets and I know you know I'm ease dropping as well as tinkering at the same time.
Thanks for the video guys, easy to follow, clear and massively helpful, especially for a newbie. The advice is really appreciated and I look forward to your future videos. All the best.sudhir potdar pune india
Hi Sudhir, Good to hear from you sir, im glad the videos could help you in some way, and thank you for your kind words.. Ride safe and keep in touch.. Del.
That is fantastic news Derek... you must be very proud! Why have you imported one from the UK... were they not available where you live?... enjoy your bike my friend, you'll love it! Hope the videos can help... ride safe, Del
Moonfleet41 Thanks, can't wait until it arrives! I have a ridiculous amount of aftermarket parts waiting for it when it arrives (it'll be stock for about 10mins LOL). I ordered a new T100 through my local Triumph Canada dealer back in Nov. Triumph Canada imports all of their bikes over from Triumph UK here, and the import waiting list is about 5 months long (I ordered mine back in Nov. when they first started shipping to Canada). It's scheduled to arrive sometime in early April. Unfortunately it's still -20C with snow on the ground here (Edmonton Alberta Canada) and there's still a TON of gravel and sand all over the roads here from the winter sanding trucks (we don't use salt on the roads up here because it's too cold for salt to melt the snow here). Our roads are a sea of potholes at present (so a new suspension on the T100 is a must), and our street sweeping and repairs here don't even start until June. The snow is usually gone here by late May..... Sadly our riding season here only runs from late May - early October (unless you ride a Ural motorcycle w/sidecar). Cheers!
The measuring mechanism on your scrambler is a lot simpler and easier to use than the one on my Tiger, although the markings on the Tiger are CNC machined into the swing arm, so very actuate. Took me a few goes, but mastered it now and only takes me a few minutes :-) Nice educational vid Del :D
What you said about the markings is spot on... my Wife's old CB125F when the wheel was correctly aligned by measuring the indicator markings were way off from one side to the other!!! Also after watching many of your videos where did you get that ruler with the "mushroom" head on... looks really useful and I cant find one anywhere !!!
Best video on teaching to tighten chain on a Triumph. I have a Speedmaster 2015. It seems to have the same set up to tighten the chain. I will be using your method to the tee. Unless you know that there is something different in the Speedmaster I should know.
Hello Gene, I think your bike is pretty much the same as the other Bonneville models, its all a pretty generic design... see how it goes and feel free to drop me a line if you get stuck withg anything mate... happy to help.. Del
Moonfleet41 Perfect I love my bike. Its the last one I will ever buy. I love working on it but i am not as studied on motorcycles so I watch your videos. My back and balance strength is not good anymore so my 865 does me just fine. Thank you for your help
Great vid Del, don't own a Scrambler but hey ;) Although I will say that my Daytona felt really un easy on the road so I got the rear wheel laser aligned. It was 20mm~ out of alignment, although the marks on the swingarm said it was perfect. So maybe not all that accurate! Got some tip-ex on the adjuster nut, for the future adjustements so the wheel *should* stay perfect through the life of the chain.
hi, great video. I have a Triumph Bonneville Street Twin. Can that also be adjusted on its side stand? What torque do you suggest for the axle? Love the tip about the nail varnish!
Great video, very clear. I have Thruxton 2015; the manual recommends tightening the adjuster nut to 5nm after wheel nut. Is it the same for this bike - could it move the chain?
Lovely presentation as always, Delboy. Stunning camera work too! So many good comments with excellent tips, did i miss the one about finding the tightest point in the chain run, not the slackest, first, before measuring?
Hi mate, thank you most kindly for that, due to the bike being almost new, the chain has no tight spots yet, so forgot to mention it, good point well made mate, thanks for the ear flick....thats why i love youtube, many minds make light work.. thanks for watching and ride safe.. Del.
Hi Del! Just a small suggestion. Before you torgue the rear axle you should keep the chain in tension so that the adjusters on both sides fully touch both ends. A good way to do that is by lifting the rear tire (after the adjustment) and put a screwdriver inside the teeth of the rear sprocket. Turn the wheel such as the screwdriver gets blocked in the sprocket. That way you 're sure that you've got full tension. Then you torgue the rear axle.
Who told you that mate?.. that is not only completely un-necessary, but could upset the alignment because you're pulling one side... as long as the bike weight is on the wheel and you have the adjustors set correctly, then do up gently and then increase torque, step by step to full value... and as you saw, it pulled up exactly the same both sides after torquing... thanks for watching...
Moonfleet41 I used to do it your way on my old vstrom. The thing i encountered is that sometimes the aluminium caps at the end of the swingarms were rattling. The problem was caused by the adjuster bolts. They did not full touch the end of swingarm when i was torguing the axle. A mechanic in the neighborhood tipped me this trick. I don't know if it's wrong. But it does the job.
Just watched video of chain tightening ordeal for new Triumph Bonneville and that's when I realized these are true Triumphs just like my '72 650 Tiger was back then. The most agonizing event back then was changing the headlight bulb frequently (new law in Fla then required it stay on in daytime.) This event required about 2 hours expletive enhanced effort in the heat. Cleaning the carburetor and chain tightening back then were then somewhat less taxing than now apparently. When I needed cash for a move and advertised bike for sale suddenly to my utter chagrin one of the 2 cylinders refused to fire. Believe it or not a gentleman with British accent came along with a novice rider to consider buying it. Following advice from my mother never to reveal any flaws of something I was going to sell I made no comment. The two rode off on the temporarily one cylinder Triumph. When the Brit and his friend returned the Brit said: "It's a Triumph!" I then admitted to the untimely one cylinder condition and they paid the asking price. (In spite of trying 4 other brands since then including my present 2003 1600, nothing has ever matched the thrill and handling of the Tiger.
Hi Del, did my first chain adjustment last night! Easy peasy thanks. No torque wrench though, thinking of getting one but my socket is 1/2inch and all the sockets in my socket set are 3/8. Should I get a 1/2 inch torque wrench as i will mostly use it for just the axles, or would a 3/8 with an adapter be adequate allowing me to use it with all my other sockets?
Hi Alex, a 3/8 wrench is fine for bikes as 90% of your bolts will be under 70Nm, then you can use it with all your sockets.... by all means get a 1/2 inch wrench and use adapters, no harm in that, but make sure it will serve you when you need to check things like fork pinch bolts that are 20Nm and less..... as bigger drive may not go down that low...
Well I already own a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench that only goes up to about 25Nm so I should be covered for that. I'll get a 3/8 and to match all my sockets and just use an adapter to go up to 1/2 inch to torque my axle nut. Is it wise to check the measurements each side after having ridden following a chain adjustment just to make sure that it hasnt' creeped. Maybe I'm being OCD but hey ho!
Alex Carpenter As long as you've torqued the axle nut up right, and the chain side adjuster is set right, it shouldn't have moved.. but hey, you cant check something too many times, and if it gives you piece of mind, then its worth it..
Nice vid Delboy. I hate chains! Though they are very forgiving alignment wise compared to belt drive they are such a hassle and make a mess of everything! Chains stretch in such weird ways and in many different points along their entire length. It’s always a good idea to check if there is a section that is tighter and adjust your chain at that point which is the SHORTEST length. If you happen to adjust your chain at the LONGEST length and there is a section that has not stretched as much, what will happen is that every time the shorter length comes round it will tighten too much even to the point of breaking. Been there, done that! Hahahaha For measurements I always prefer to find a common center line at one end (say the pivot axle center punch) and measure from there to the center of the rear axle. I find it much more accurate as plates, swing arm ends and what not may vary considerably from side to side. And you are soooo right with the tork setting. I’ve seen shops completely ruin the threads or not only axles but also rear sprocket bolts; in one case I had to cut them off as they were completely ruined!!!
Thanks mate, using the shaft centres for alignment is impossible on the Bonneville series as the right side of the swing arm pivot shaft is completely covered by the chain casing... and I didn't mention the matter of tightening from the tightest point as this is a new chain and still has uniform tension all the way round, but good point well made my friend.
Hi Del... thank you for the excellent video. A quick question, when checking the tension, to get the full slack, should I push the chain down to get the start point and then push up. Some videos do this, some like yours don't. I only ask as if I don't push down, my chain is showing slightly too tight after adjustment.
Don't overthink it mate, it is an approximate measurement between up and down and will vary with suspension travel, so make sure the wheels are on the ground and I just grab the chain with finger and thumb and measure the overall max. movement!
Hi Del - thanks for the video. I've got a 2014 Thruxton and I'm ready to do my first chain adjustment. The manual indicates to torque up the adjusters to 18 lbf after tightening the spindle nut to 63 lbf. However, when I try to tighten the adjusters with the torque wrench set to spec, the bolt just keeps spinning and the wrench never clicks. You didn't mention torquing down the adjusters in your video, and I'm wondering how much it matters, as long as the spindle nut is in spec. I'm a little scared that I stripped the nut somehow.
Hi Adam. im a bit confused with that recommendation too, Ive never torqued the adjusters, you cant!, they don't do up tight, you just set them to the right distance then torque up the wheel nut.....if you keep winding on the adjusters, you'll throw the chain tension or wheel alignment out..... unless they mean to do up the wheel first then lock the adjuster in tight....but i don't see any reason to do that. .. best thing is to just set the alignment, torque the axle nut in right, then check it a few times over the next few days, make sure it hasn't moved..
Great vid Delboy 👍 I would love to know what’s the make and range of the black torque wrench you use? The quality and clarity of the readings look far superior to the one I use.
Hi buddy.. its a really old item that i should have replaced by now... it was made by Sykes Picavant..and rated from 10Nm, to 80Nm.. There are better ones available now..!!
Love your video series! Thanks so much for sharing! I watch every single one of them :-) I just got my new 2014 Bonneville. How do you suggest I tighten rear wheel lock nuts with the torque wrench like you're doing in this video when Bonneville's exhaust pipes are not allowing enough room for torque wrench to fit. Thanks!
+Petar Jankovic Hi Petar, I know of this problem, the pipe gets in the way....the proper long answer is to drop the right hand pipe off so you can access it...but nobody does that...just tighten it up so its good and secure, then dot some marker paint on there to keep an eye on it... that's whay most people do... good luck matey, take care.. Del.
Good video Del, I've actually seen a garage mechanic standing on an extention bar trying to get these undone where the Muppet owner did it himself with god knows what to tighten it, Good info again my friend, RS.
Yeah seen that too mate.. even had to hear them to get them off myself!... the danger of over tightening these can be catastrophic, stainless steel is brittle and it doesn't take much to sheer the threaded end off... after all, it's not even a bar, it's a tube, albeit a thick one! Good to hear from you mate...Del
Moonfleet41 Cheers Del, a bit more info for me buddy, I never knew they where tubes I assumed they where solid, I've taken em out cleaned em etc but never really studied em, maybe it's time to start paying more attention, lol, Ride Safe Bro.
Great vid. I am new to biking a have been wondering how to correctly adjust the chain on my BMW F800r. Quick question, do you need to spin the wheel round in order to find the lowest point of the chain or is the chains lowest point the same all the way round? I hope that makes sense, I know what I am trying to say 😆. Thanks.
+Count Miffed I know what you're trying to say Count... its a common question buddy.....spin the wheel round to the TIGHTEST point.....the point where there is the LEAST slack.....then set the tension at that point.....remember the chain must have the minimum required slack.. setting it to a "more slack" point will mean that once you set the tension and it rolls round to the tight spot, then your vital slack will be gone and the chain will go tight... this can be dangerous to you and your bike... so slackest point, and set the tension there... too slack is always better than too tight...and measure the slack with a rider sitting on the bike too...! hope that helps buddy.. good luck with it.. Del.
Another great video, you’re videos have saved the day on many occasions working on my ‘07 Scrambler. What tyres are on the scrambler in this video? On another note, I fitted a pair of VW beetle tail pipes to my scrambler as an experiment, they were a perfect fit, the sound was awesome and there was no performance difference BUT can it damage the engine at all? Keep up the good work
The tyres are Dunlop Trail Wing fitted from the factory and not very good and with your pipes, if all you're running is V Dub baffles in the header pipes, then I would certainly go along to your Triumph dealer and get it re-mapped to run on universal baffles, it won't do it any good long term running on the standard map with those, it will soon start to run lean in the warmer weather.
Thanks for the video Del, I found it very helpful. My 2015 Triumph Scrambler has aftermarket factory fitted Arrow pipes I had a Scottoiler fitted prior to purchase by the dealer. Unfortunately the Scottoiler is interfering with the running and throwing the fueling out. When I disconnected it, it returned to full power again. Any advice on this would be most appreciated, as I would love to have the Scottoiler working if possible. The Triumph dealer told me that it was a common fault with this model of bike and they don't like Scottoilers!! Thank you. Steve
Hi Steve, that's odd, I fitted a Scottoiler to the '13 Scrambler we have and it worked just fine, but there were very specific intructions with the Scottoiler to make sure to connect it to the right vacuum take off... and they even give you a specific connection for it... is it possible they didn't read the instructions? You could contact Scottoiler direct as they know exactly how to make them work and could advise you... if you contact Matt Ennen at Scottoiler direct, he's a really helpful and knowledgable guy and I worked with him on the promoton of Scottoiler about 3yrs ago, why not tell him we said Hi and we recommended you to him and am sure he'll sort it out for you... am sure it'll be fine, as I definitely remember there was some specific mehtod of connecting it properly and if the dealer's ignored the instruction and connected it up to, maybe, a more obvious place, but at the same time, the wrong place, that could be your problem... Hope that helps, let us know how you get on, Del
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Del, just a quick note to say thanks again and to let you know i've now fully sorted the issue out with Matt being incredibly helpful with his advice. The dealer who originally fitted the Scottoiler had connected it to the wrong vacuum spigot, thus throwing out the fuel injection settings. I passed on your comments to Matt, who sends you his regards.
@@HinckleyHammer Oh that's wonderful news Stephen, Matt is a great guy and I knew he'd point you in the right direction... the Triumph vacuum take off is a very specific quirk on your bike, it's not obvious where a normal take-off would be, so fair play to the mechanic, they just used common sense... great news! Enjoy your bike and keep in touch mate...!
I am bikeless at the moment but love these videos LOL ...Great work Del and Penny Superb ! Del did you buy the Scrambler brand new ? What's the score with starting to Mod a new bike still under warranty? At the bike show last week the guy i spoke to on the Triumph stand told me any exhaust mods on a new scrambler would have to be an official Triumph exhaust as to not invalidate the warranty. I'm pretty sure when the time is right that the "Scrambler" is the one i want because i love that engine with the 270' crank gave me a proper BIG Grin when i test ride it :-) My biggest problem at the moment is deciding wether to buy secondhand or New? They seem to really hold their value second hand and Black Scramblers are like rocking horse teeth ! What's your thoughts Del? Cheers Paul
+Paul Trew Hi Paul, I think you know my feelings on warranties and dealerships, tbh, I am sick to the back teeth of dealers and their cocky, sarcstic and santimonious attitudes, most of their staff don't know their arese from their f'kin elbow and coulnd't knowledge their way out of a child's nursery school unless it's written the brochure! Look first at what a warranty is - it is guarente from the manufactruer that then machine is free from macnufacturing defects, fit for the purpose designed, and NOTHING ELSE... so within 100 miles you will have discoered any manufacturing defects and the very fact it's ridden 100 miles proves it's satisfactory for the purpose designed, anything else beyond that is 'customer service' - and lets face it, in this country, most customer service is appaling...! The stories we hear would curl your teeth my friend, so to answer your question in straight terms, I would buy a new bike, and forget the waranty To qualify this, I'll put it this way... IT'S A NEW BIKE! It has no wear and tear whoatsoever, everything is brand new, even the hairs on the tyres, so buy it, like I did mine, ride it 600 miles, take it back for 1st service... then never return! After that, you've used the dealer as a vending machine and got yourself a bike for life - you are not buying someone else's wear and tear, someone elses bodge ups and mis-treatment... Penny now rides the Scrambler I bought and ThreeX Motorcycles will never see it again - quite frankly, I wouldn't trust 'em to wipe it over with a cloth, so I hope that answer your quesions, simply put, buy it new, but treat it like you would a second hand purchase, that way you get the best of both worlds ! How's that!!!
Hi Del - Great video as usual, sound advice, love it. This may be one for a future Q&A but related to chains - what's your view on dry chain lube? I use it on my Street Triple to avoid "fling" but the chain never looks particularly lubed (although it is greasy to the touch and isn't tarnished)...any strong views??? Cheers - Andy
Andy...i LOVE dry chain lube, and as soon as the bad weather is gone ill be switching the Scott Oiler off and switching over to a PTFE based powder lube. The dry lubes are used in racing and there are no more extreme conditions than that...Its always disconcerting when you cant see any build up or 'wetness' but there isnt meant to be, they are designed to keep race tracks clean of oil and flung off lube...so as long as you use the correct lubricating regime they are perfectly fine, and my own choice in summer. Start with a totally clean dry chain, lube it with a single pass of the spray and take it for a ride...then relube again with a 'double pass' once the chain is good and hot....then, as there are no anti-rust qualities to it, make sure that if you have used the bike in the rain, dry the chain off after the ride with a dry rag....then relube it again while its still hot.. Hope that helps you buddy.. Del.
Moonfleet41 Great news - cheers Del - that's pretty much the regime I have been using (and the Street Triple is my "dry weather only" bike anyway).....glad to know I'm in good company - thanks for taking the time for such a full reply - all the best...A
Chris Lopez Hi Chris, those are open megaphone silencers modified to fit the standard header pipes, which I customised to match in... the whole system is for sale now if you fancy it....
Moonfleet41 I'm planning on selling my current ride and buying a Triumph Scrambler next year after I graduate from University. I'll be look for an exhaust system like this, then.
sla malenko No Sla, i have now changed the wheels for some proper tough off-road style wheels with Talon hubs and heavy duty spokes, but can see how the standard factory ones would not stand up to much abuse!
Hi Del, Learning to do a chain adjustment has been on my "To Do" list for some time, but as yet never got round to doing it. Before the chain came off on my YBR 3 years ago, I didn't even know about chain adjust. However since now having owned 4 bikes, 2 of them brand new and the other a shaftie, it's just never got to the point where I needed to do it. My XJ6 had around 4K on the clock before I part exed it and it was within the tolerance, but I've now covered 6K on my Honda NC700X and the chain is looking a little sloppy. Can I apply this to a jap bike, would i be correct in thinking that after cracking off the axle nut and the adjustment locking nuts, I then need to TIGHTEN the adjustment nuts to pull the wheel back in contrast to your Triumph where you appear to slacken the nuts?
Hi Alex.. the direction you rotate the adjuster bolts varies from bike to bike depending on the design and whether they "push" or "Pull" on the axle locator , just turn them a bit first to see which way they work on your bike, dont worry, it will be immediately apparent when you look at the axle and see which way it moves.. Good luck with it, and remember to double check the alignment once you have locked up the axle nut again as it can move a bit.....all the best, Del.
As I suspected, it's about 55mm, it's only supposed to be 35mm. MOT for the magna tomorrow, did my checks with your video and all good so wish me luck.
1 MOT cert signed and dated for another year :) Advisory for the tyre but I expected that. I made the assesment that it would just about get through with the tyre so thought I'd skip buying one incase it failed on other counts but it sailed through. Even though I did the checks from your vid and confirmed it myself, it's the "dreaded" MOT that we all for some reason fear each year. So now, time for new tyres, I want knobblies.
Another superb video, thank you! After watching I noticed on the chain side I am at the 3rd notch, other side at the second notch. The chain has proper slack, should I tighten up the side with only 2 notches to 3, or chain side to 2, for proper wheel alignment? Btw all my DIY vids couldn't have been done without you! Cheers mate :)
Hey buddy, with adjusting your chain, the notches are irrelevant, well, certainly which notch either them is on is irrelevant, they are simply a guide for symmetry... set the chain to the 'correct tension' (1.5" up and down movement at the centre of the chain slack) and then wherever that leaves the right hand notch plate, you adjust the left hand notch plate to correspond... re-check the chain tension and then re-check both sides for symmetry... job done! Good luck with it and good luck with your videos, my friend! Del
Moonfleet41 Yup that did it, symmetry and chain all done up properly, thank you! I do have another question if you have a sec…I was wondering if I remove the baffle from my 2:1 Arrow exhaust system, can I reinstall it if it is too loud or runs too lean, which I read it does? Thanks again!
Hi. My bike also says to adjust chain while on the side stand. Is adjusting the chain while the bike is on a paddock stand just as good? I assumed the weight is still on the rear wheel when on the paddock stand? Cheers.
Hi Del, quick question on torque wrenches. There seems to be different views on wether the torque wrench should be kept at 0 or at its lowest setting (such as 10nm). Which would you reccomend?
Just adjusted my chain for the second time (6400miles). Did everything just as you showed; but, I was puzzled that the left side turned very easily. Can you explain why it wouldn't have the same kind of resistance as it did on the right side?
Dennis Hofmeister HI Dennis, the left side of the Triumph has no weight on it as the chain is on the right... audjusting the right means pulling back on the weight of the chain to set the tension, but on the left...all you are doing is squaring the wheel up so match...no weight means no pressure on the screw.. hope that helps... Del.
Hi Del and Pen! Very nice demo, as usual. Just wondering... how does the factory determine torque settings? I.e., why do they spec 70lbs and not 60lbs or 80lbs? (I suspect there's some formula math involved pertaining to fastener sizes as well as the strength of the various metal alloys used in each specific case.) Also, why do some fasteners require Locktite and some don't?
Hey Byron, good to hear from you buddy... axle torque settings are determined by the maximum load bearing capacity of the inner cup on the wheel bearings... the thickness of the axle tube... and the type of nut used...! With regular bolts it is, indeed, a maths calculation, arrived at by using the thickness of the bolt shaft against the receiving material of the inner thread ie. stainless bolt in to stainless thread high torque, stainless bolt in to alloy thread low torque........ how boring is this lol!
Thanks Del! I guess my real question is how do they / we know when a fastener is tight enough? And when to use locktite or lock washers? I've had fasteners come loose and it's a bit scary to think of something important falling off the bike at 70mph :)
Byron Anderson Oh I see what you mean... it can be a concern... Loctite is generally reserved for really important fasteners , like suspension fittings and internal engine components etc., but generally speaking you don't need it... just do the fastener up to the correct torque value (as listed in your Harley service manual (and they are all there and easy to find))... and use the trick with the marker paint on the nut or bolt head, so you can keep an eye on it... But as Harley's vibrate a little more than most bikes, the torque settings have been worked out by year so of development and testing ... you can trust them!
Thanks Del. Here's a good example of my concern and mechanical clumsiness: I had removed the seat to get at my battery and when I reinstalled the rear seat bolt I tightened to what I thought was reasonably tight. About a week afterwards I noticed the seat bolt had come unscrewed and basically would have fallen off, allowing the seat to come free. This time I used blue Loctite on it and screwed it down tighter. But the next time I needed to remove the seat, the bolt wouldn't come loose and I ended-up mincing the head. I finally got it loose using a different driver plus vise-grips, and obviously had to get a new replacement bolt. I'm mechanically pathetic, I know! :) All the best Mate and Hi to Pen!
Byron Anderson Oh i see, well don't get too bothered by that little experience mate, those bolts are a damn liability, if you don't fit the factory 'shake proof' washer under it then it will rattle out every time....that is one modification i make to every Harley i have ever had... swap out the daft pathetic screw (that seems to be made from stale pastry) for a nice stainless steel alun bolt...that way you can wind it in hard enough so it wont unscrew itself.... Glad you got it sorted out buddy, and always drop me a ping if you need any advice or help with anything.... all the best.. Del.
Hi del could you advise me im putting the alternator cover back on and it states in my Haynes manual and it says apply a suitable sealant to the wiring grommet, could you advise me on what I should use for this or what sealant regards Aussie Bob
Thanks Del! So I guess it's the same as with what I do on my car: step on the wrench with my weight for that last tight when hand is not enough anymore and that's it, right? Thanks man!
+Petar Jankovic HI Peter, on a bike, hand is usually enough if you use a 12" long bar or wrench, they are easier to overtighten than car lug nuts...you can crack the wheel bearing cups if you go standing on them too much... if you want a measurement, then about 70lbft is more than enough..
Hello. I'm new to your vids. Love them. I noticed you didn't check for any tight spots on the chain before adjusting it so that it was at the slackest point
Hi buddy, I guess I didn't show it in the video, done many videos like this, and always made that point clear, just missed it on this one - thanks for the heads up... and you adjust at the tightest point, not the loosest point... thanks for watching!
Hi del i have bought a triumph trophy 900 and not sure how you adjust chain on these they are like the ones on your tiger only ever had the nut and bolt type ones could you poss do a vid demonstrating or let me know how to adjust have searched you tube but cant seem to find anything thanks mate
Hi mate, good to hear from you again, does your Trophy have the cylindrical type adjuster rather then the slide type? as i thought they used those on all the big touring bikes....send us a picture if you can and ill guide you through it fellah.. ?
Found out how to adjust those those adjustment tensioners in the end its the same set up has the triumph tiger also lowered the bike for my short legs by turning the adjusters 180 degerees so has the axle is at top rather than bottom lowering the bike 40mm got this tip from triumph owners site thanks any way del
bruvamonk Hi mate, thats why i asked if it was the drum adjusters, you said 'same as on the tiger'... but not on my Tiger.. the 955i has regular slide adjusters....so they can vary between models, fortunately you have that great facility if being able to roll them over and lower the bike...clever aye... Glad it worked for you buddy, always drop us a line if you need any help.. Del.
No mate, I've seen people on the Triumph forum saying they lock it up to 100ft-lbs 'to be sure'! It's proper dangerous as it can literally sheer the threaded end of the axle clean off, not to mention, crush the inner bearing cup... specially at speed when it gets hot! Sometimes less is more!
Hi Aaron.. not sure off the top of my head buddy, why not have a search online, find a PDF of your bike's torque settings, and save it in your saved box.. i do the same for all the bikes we own..!
Moonfleet41. Thanks very much buddy tgink it be worth gettin a haynes manual.long story short need to replace my chain and sprockets after watching ur video think im guna attempt it myself.thanks again
Have they done away with the castle nut and split pin like on my ye olde kawa ? You will laugh at this, when ive had to take the wheel out to replace the tyre, ive stretched wire from the front drive cog to the rear one and adjust the adjusters to lose the light gap, then use the nut turns much like you did. I used to wear chains out, i did use engine braking a lot, i know its a bad habit :-(
Its known as a 'Contemporary' seat...designed flr the Thruxton, and they were made by Triumph as limited run accessories...but long since stopped production now, however you may find one second hand on eBay, if you can afford it...they sell for silly money..
Moonfleet41 Thanks. Also could you make a walkaround video of your scrambler and the bonne, i think they are some of the best customised triumphs ive seen and it would be nice to have a full view of them. Thanks.
zac coombs Hi Zac...sounds a bit Goash to me..kinda says "look at me, here's my bikes"...but thanks for the kind complements, they're hardly customised, just a few accessories and basic changes...but then, they don't need much to look good, i guess thats why they are pretty popular... if we get to a point where a walk round is relavant, ill do them for sure... thanks mate, you're very kind.. all the best.. Del.
