A simple job, but if you've not done it before, heres a simple to follow guide.. Tools needed; 27mm socket or spanner 12mm spanner 13mm spanner Torque Wrench Chain Cleaner Chain Lube Rags and or Brush Scissor Jack or Paddock Stand
Good video as always, Tony. I guess you never expected to be the primary source for Street Twin info, but I think you're the only ST owner on RU-vid who puts out a lot of videos about it, so you're the Street Twin guy now B^)
Tony, you're a blessing (as always)! Excellent video, very useful and just what I needed. Triumph should be paying you for such quality explanatory videos.
Excellent video, i agree with a comment below which now your considered the street twin DIY man. Hope to see you one day do a valve inspection check, that would be interesting. Thumbs up!
as always informative and clear, you might add that you should rotate the wheel and find the "tight spot" in the chain. all chains and sprockets are rather inconsistent and have a spot where there is the least slack. working from that point will insure you do not over tighten the chain.
Great video. Pretty sure modern chains have o-rings around each chain pin to help keep in the lubricant. Therefore, brake cleaner may be a bit harsh and potentially dry out the o-rings. Kerosene should work and is not as aggressive.
Thanks, Brake cleaner shouldn't attack the o-rings (carb cleaner is a different story) and when you relube you are obviously keeping them in the condition they need to be. I don't use brake cleaner for every clean & Lube, i usually use a degreaser, but a going over with brake cleaner once and a while is good to give it a deep clean. Brake cleaner is largely Acetone which is a solvent similar to kerosene, so I think its a bit of a myth that one is worse than the other?
Tony About to change my front sprocket and back sprocket with a new chain ,is there anyway you could do a video on changing the front sprocket, it looks a little in depth to me but I would have no problem if I seen you do it ,because you have all the specs torques appreciate it thanks!!
Hey Tony, thanks again for another awesome, informative video. Side question, I do notice on this video, you have the motone passenger peg delete/blanking plates. Well, I ordered them for my street twin, but after removing the passenger peg, I realized the hex bolt that came with the Motone is rather short, and after removing the stock washer/rubber bung, it still doesn't quite reach. Did you ended up hitting the hardware store for a longer hex bolt? Or what did you ended up doing? Thanks in advance!
Hey Tony, thanks for this! Super useful video and now I will watch more! How often would you say to do a chain clean and lube. I've had my Street Twin 2017 for about 3 months now, and it's had its first service about 1.5 months ago. Today I noticed a bit of corrosion on the dots along the chain. I don't know what the technical term is. What do you think? :)
Thank you for this helpful video! I had a quick question - I see you are using flat scissor jack to hold the motorcycle up. The chassis frame sits slightly above the oil pan, so wondering if it's okay to rest the bike on the bottom of the pan while raising the bike.
What is the tool number on your special suspension compression tool? I want one... Great video. I have watched several of your videos and I like they short and informative. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, but what about the other side, do we need to do the similar adjustment to be done on other side? Matching the dots? Or just one side is enough?
Thank you, yes you need to match both sides to make sure the wheel is aligned. I mention this briefly at about the four minute mark. Thanks for the comment
Hey Tonny! Greetings from Texas and thank you for sharing your knowledge. I do have a question for you, spraying the lubricant with such wide range will make it inevitable to go over your rotor and pads, would this contaminate the pad surface, did you experience issues with your rear brakes? Thank you much again.
It’s actually quite a concentrated spray, the Wurth cans have a short tube on the nozzle so unlike standard ‘aerosol’ cans they shoot in Avery narrow range meaning you can get the lube exactly where you want it. So, no, no issues with contamination. Cheers
I've always used a piece of Cardboard (old Beer box) handheld behind where I'm spraying which helps to keep any overspray off the Brakes, Tyre and anywhere else it shouldn't go.
Hey Tony, Remus has a set of pipes for the street twin that is a full, single piece that looks like it is a direct replacement for the stock system, including the cat. Any chance you might take a look at it?
I saw Termignoni's system, I wish it had come out on the other side of the bike. I understand having it on the right side is normal, but the Street twin has got the chain on the opposite side as normal.
The only option you really have is back the preload off. The best thing to do would be to visit a suspension specialist and have the spring rate matched to your weight and riding style
You don't HAVE to have the back wheel off the ground to adjust the chain, but its so much easier if you do. It takes all the tension out of the adjusters
How old is the chain and how much has it stretched since new? Will a new chain bring the rear axle up to the "first marking dot" when it's correctly adjusted? With that much slack, it might be easier to clean/lube the chain by taking it off the bike. Pop the master link on the back half of the driven gear and remove.
Hi Tony, informative vid,thankyou.Can you tell me how your scissor jack fits. Ive just bougbt one,(seally), and a little worried the sump and side stand are in the way. Can you lift on street twin sump? Thanks, new subscriber.
Hello tony, peter here again ( I bought the seat from you ) I have a oxford wheel chock and rear paddock stand which are great , the rear stand works ok, but doesn't slide on quite as far as I would like on the brake side of things , but I think bobbins would work a bit better , I know its not quite the street twin look , but because of the exhausts I cant put the paddock stand further down which would avoid the cables etc , and of course if it rested on bobbins it would rest much nearer the end of the swinging arm , are bobbins easily fitted ? I have never put them on any of my bikes before . many thanks , peter
Hello Tony this is Suvo from India just brought Street Twin 2017 edition. The roads back here have a lot of bumps and have adjusted rear preload to Max setting. I would like to know how to increase the overall ground clearance to at least 150mm
Hi Suvo, you could fit longer shocks to the rear for a start, the street scrambler and street cup have slightly longer rear shocks. The fox upgrade is worth doing and is available in the longer length. As far as the front goes there isn't many if any options. Fitting a sump guard would lose a little bit of clearance, but offers protection to the underside.
Views from the Man Cave Thanks Tony for the quick response! I am going for the fox upgrade for the rear shocks. Would like to know if ohlin's would work better? As for the front shocks I let them be stock as of now. I have however already installed the sump guard from showroom itself. Thanks once again!
Thanks Tony. Anybody have a recommendation on tools to loosen and tighten the lock nuts without having to remove the muffler? I find that there is not enough clearance with my standard crescent wrench. Am I missing something? Thanks!
Hi Chris, I use small open ended spanners. The Vance & Hines pipes I have are shorter that the stock ones, so if you are running those there may be less room?
Hello Tony, Peter here ( i bought the nice seat from you for the street twin) good video as always, what make torque wrenches are you using ? presumably 2 different ones ? as it can be 5 nm or up to over 100 nm , peter
Hi Peter, I use a Norbar TT wrench. My one goes from 20nm to 100nm (but in reality it'll go 10nm above and below that). Anything less than 20 and I'll use the old fashioned 'wrist tendon' visual gauge ;)
Tony, on my street twin I get a ticking over noise like a metal hitting metal on deceleration and on acceleration and when I'm just cruising. Do you get this on yours? Just wondering if it's normal
Thanks for commenting with a good point. As you can see I try to give the chain a good coating from all sides possible. I keep the nozzle as close as I can to avoid over spray, and always wipe down any that occurs straight away.
would you have to do the same on both sides or just the adjuster bolt side? the manual is confusing i think it mentioned having to losen the the lock nut on adjuster side but for the adjuster nut its both right and left? thanks for the help
@@mancavemoto so losen the lock nut on both sides, then adjust the adjuster nuts on both sides to line up with the indicator correct? then lock all the nuts back, thanks in advance man
nice ass 🤣🤣 great video...ive got a brand new triumph and have been nervous about how to tighten the chain...this makes it super simple...thank you for the extra bit about it getting tighter with weight on it, possibly causing overtightening
Hi, i have watched this video and wonder why you would spry lube on to the outside of the chain when its only the rollers that need to be lubed,seems to me that it makes unnecessary mess and a waste of lube ? Remembering that the rollers are sealed.Fort nine site on the subject makes perfect sense on the subject, just my opinion of course.Pete,Uk.
Why is it so important to get both sides the same and how would I know if one side was too far off? I drove my bike 12 miles and everything seems fine.
If both sides aren’t the same then the wheel will not be straight in the swingarm. You can gauge it by looking at the dots by the adjusters as highlighted in the video
