I'm getting my bike delivered tomorrow 9 am. Just wanted to say thanks as I don't really have anyone to show me the (skills) common knowledge on these kind of jobs but you have showed me and you will have saved me a shed load so cheers Del and penny stay safe.
Thanks mate, glad we can help you..and congratulations on your bike tomorrow...enjoy every minute of it, and ride safe aye... Oh, and come over and join us on the forum too...lots of help and advice, lots of fellow idiots to make friends with...and a lot more fun that facebolock..... heres a link chap.. bikers.boards.net/
Great vid guys i now do this regular and the bobbin bolt trick..Pressies in post today .DBG hoody and DBG sticker..lovely bit of kit..even Mrs Springy loves it! Sticker is now in top spot inside top tool cabinet lid...Thank you so much...Ps big cheers to Duke Dyson from the brilliant Q&A series ..Awesome!
Thanks Springy... glad you got the swag and pleased you are happy with it! he Q&A's were great fun, we're thinking of doing a New Year Special if we can get enough questions together!
Another great video, Penny's input always makes things more entertaining! Cleaning the brakes is something I feel like gets forgotten quite a bit...or maybe that's just me... either way it serves as a great reminder and how-to.
It sure is mate, like all those boring winter chores...but they are so important to keep it safe... those front wheels especally, they MUST be free rolling to stop the locking in the icey weather..
Top tip mate, always worth reminding people about these basic maintenance routines! For those who are scared of using grips on the brake calipers to push the pistons back in: you can just open the brake fluid reservoir and remove the diaphragm, then push VEEERY GENTLY the pistons or you'll end up with a squirt of fluid on the ceiling AND on your bike! ;) keep up the good work mate, always respect your passion and commitment! Matt
I would never mess around with brakes! I own a 13 plate tiger and after watching this video serval times I decided to change my front pads. 40 mins later all done 😉 your video saved me £50 lol. Thanks
Why thank you most kindly sir, its just simple house keeping, and the benefit of taking proper care of your bike is way more then money can buy....you get a greater pride of ownership, and keep yourself safe too... Thanks for watching mate, ride safe and keep it upright.. Del.
These videos are really helping me learn the basics as I didn't have a clue! Did my first chain adjustment Sunday and the bike feels awesome as well as me =) just got my 125 and is relatively new (1600 miles) coming into Winter I think i will do this before I ride it as my back brake is squeaking slightly. Cheers for the videos! They really do help :)
Nice one Ethan, I love to hear that, we take the time to do this for the sake of riders just like you... good on you buddy.. get stuck in and keep it in tip top shape... the first thing the accident investigators do in a bad accident is look at the vehicles involved to check for faults, neglect and dangerous dis-repair.....and 'a binding front brake' will get you blamed every time... plus it can lead to the accident in the first place... just drop me a line any time you need a tip or any help..alsways here and happy to help fellah... good luck aye.. Del.
Just bought a tiger! And found your vids! They are great and really easy to follow for the home mechanic!! Thanks your saving me loads of money in garage bills👍
Great video gota say penny never misses an opportunity to see something funny love her sense of humour. Was just tinkin I gota clean my brakes starting to squeal after having to ride tru some flood water the other day coming home from work
For clarification the Loctite wax stick you called CSA is C5-A (anti-seize copper lubricant) or Loctite #8065. Just wanted everyone who may be looking for it to ask for the right thing and avoid them from looking like Frankensteins Monster! Another great vid Del + Penny, thank you for all the hard work and few laughs along the way. -Scott B. [USA]
Cheers Scott...i read that on tle label right after id said it..Doh... oh well, told you i was an idiot..lol... thanks for watching buddy... take care.. Del.
Always worth seeing this again as I believe we take something new away from it every time (I always tried to place both pads in place and THEN tried to push the retaining pin through - much more fiddly my way). Going to see how freely my front wheel spins tomorrow now...
Cheers brother...you're right.. i guess brakes count for a bit on a fat pig 955 aye.. see you next month... oh, and CONGRATS on re-joining the gravy train fellah.. !!
@@Moonfleet41 it actually did more than that I have only had bike for a month and have been concerned about a high pitch noise when I got up to about 60 that would dissappear as soon as I slowed down and now it has completely gone so I think thus caliper was probably loose and now that I've give it a clean and torque set the bolts 🔩 it has cured it and probably saved me from what could have been a very nasty accident so I cannot thank you enough. 😀 and shall heed your advise if you service it yourself you self serv.rear brakes weekend chain ⛓ already done keep it up you make a difference 👍
@@MrAlbertsnelson Thank you so much for your feedback on this Albert... it sounds like you got away with that one and lived to fight another day.. Thank you also again for your support on Patreon too, welcome aboard sir... Take care and have a great week.. D&Pxx
Ay up, that time of the year again. Good tippage on the dust cover -mine welded to the rear caliper last winter & I had do drill it out. No problems with it since though -the waxy copper slip really does the job! :o)
Hi Del & Penny, just in the door from a long day on the road and really enjoyed this vid. Very useful information and entertaining as well. Greasy ring, a squirt of brake cleaner should do the trick Del lol. Ride safe
I was doing the usual upkeep on the bandit last night in garden .A fella from the bowls club next door asked what i was working on.General weekly checks..Fluids .Brakes.Pressures .etc etc..Oh Don'T they pretty much look after themselves these modern bikes?.. He was amazed at the amount of care needed to run any bike! NUFF SAID..
i've been holding off doing this on my bike for weeks now and been taking the car! considering i first learned how to do this from your bandit video, i think it's a sign to do them again!
Sure is Barry....every year and no less...if you ride all winter like i do, ill be doing mine every month or so once the satl and ice comes... get it done buddy, much safer in the wet..
Thanks John. im glad the videos can help you, and happy you can learmn a bit along the way... feel free to drop me a line if you get stuck... all the best. Del.
Nice one Bex, good idea.. just give the wheel a spin and see how it is.....and if you get stuck, then obviously drop me a line any time aye... good luck with it.. Del.
Cost me a bit extra but when I rebuilt my caliper (a 4 piston ) I decided to get stainless pistons,the old ones were really corroded, I recommend the stainless ones make cleaning mutch easier, and they will probably last longer than the bike.
watched the one from the bandit last night funnily enough, got two bikes I need to do this to, one that's got its MOT and one I've just bought, cheers for all the vids del (and penny of course) there's just some stuff that doesn't come across in the manual like it does on film!
Perfect timing, my crazy KTM got this exact treatment last weekend. Not that it needed it, but better to be safe than sorry, right? Great camerawork Penny!
I'm sure this is the third video I've seen you do this? ;) For some reason my brakes bind, I've refurbished the callipers and clean them every other week, even tried changing to a different brand of steel lines but no luck. I'm definitely guilty of having tons of pics on my phone on how stuff fits back on the bike!
Photographing a job as you go is wise old practice buddy, any way better then a Haynes manual..lol... It is probably the thrid one ive done...but then i do it eveyr year on a different bike, so why not... If your calipers are binding, have you actually stripped and cleaned the pistons, new seals and rebuilt them yet..?
Yeah wouldn't trust a Haynes too much, to remove a headlight bulb it says to remove half the bike.. Im too lazy and would rather have scrapped knuckles and do it in half the time lol Yeah brand new seals in the callipers and the pistons couldn't have got any cleaner if I tried. Rebuilt is what I meant when I put refurbished! =)
I did the same thing on my old gs550 Suzuki Unfortunately I lost her in the flood we had here. But, all is good I got the Triumph. I did test ride a Triumph Adventure this summer and loved it to bad my wallet didn't (hate my wallet) But anywho... I did a vlog on the test ride maybe you seen it if not have a look and get a laugh. Oh right don't forget to wash Bash the tiger. Ride safe and all that blah blah some old stuff.
Ayup Bash, I also have a wallet like that....its tends to step in and spoil things all the time..lol Bash the Tiger is washed every day when it rains...he dries out again, and still looks clean and fresh today..
Do you have any experience of doing this kind of thing on a VFR800 or something else with linked brakes? I would like to do it but I'm terrified of all those brake lines... It's a bit of a plumber's nightmare... Hoodie arrived yesterday, love it! thanks!!
Hey up chap, glad the hoodie arrived safe, it's always a worry when we send them off with the postie... I've done a brake bleed on my Blackbird, which has the same system, which is a few years ago, and it's not complex, just a little fiddly... the best method is to pressure bleed them with a pump device, but if they're working ok at this point, mate, then why do you need to bleed them? As long as there is no air in the system, and the pivot is moving on the front forks, it should all be fine... as long as you change the fluid every 2 years, or 3yrs at absolute most, you'll be fine...
Not sure I will bleed it to be honest as they still feel firm enough. I've had the bike a year now and I'm not sure how long ago the fluid was changed, but it is a good colour so I'm guessing not that long ago! I might just whip the calipers off and give them a good scrub then, provided all the hoses allow for that, and leave the bleed for another year! I'm lucky enough to know of a really cheap garage with a good reputation so they can always sort it for me :) Thanks mate, take care
Really enjoy these videos, Delboy. Keep 'em coming. Recently stripped my calipers because of a leak about a month ago (turns out it was shoddy mechanic work after a Suzuki GSXR master cylinder recall). Had them apart twice before I realised. Grief. After the dealership fixed what they fudged in the first place, they then asked who was working on my calipers because they were leaking (very, very mildly) at the seam. The pistons were fine so it leads me to think either I didn't get the gunk out from underneath the O-ring (brand news seals by the way) or it's because I didn't use a torque wrench (haven't yet invested). I believe the pads are contaminated to an extent now too so I'll have to chuck them in the oven. Any suggestions for this pleb?
Hey Mr Bee....we're all plebs mate...just different levels..lol. If the caliper is leaking at the casting joint....i would drop them apart again to make sure you dont have some debris trapped that's stopping them seal... and take the tiem to get some new joint seals. (the dont come in the regular seal kit) then make a really good job of rebuilding them cleanly... its not wise to just wind them up tighter because if it is a grain of debris in the joint all you'll do it damage the threads. I know its long winded mate, but its the proper solution and you cant really take too much care with brakes.. Good luck with it.. Del.
hi to you both - nice and informative as always - was/is that calliper the same as on the MK1 bandits? And thx to penny for killing me with the indies - haha - took a min or to too watch the last few minutes - hehe - have fun keep safe - cheers Nige
Hey Nige... the caliepr is very different to the Bandit Mk1, these are floating calipers with two single sided pistons...and the Bandit uses a fixed caliper with 4 oposing pitons...but the principles are exactly the same in every way... take out the pads, and clean them piston gum lines....put em back together... job done.. and yeah, it takes twice as long in the garage with Penny there... she cant take anyting seriously....and that exactly how i love her to be... cheers buddy.. !
another good video from DB'sG and good to have a wee refresher video at this time of year, think i might have a go tomorrow if my gammy knee lets me lol just a quick question, any news on the hoodies and T's ?? Ive been checking for updates but not sure if ive missed something. take it easy and ride safe mate :)
Hey buddy.....thats spooky and funny you should ask....Me and Penny have been up till midnight packing hoodies for the last three nights...and yours was packed last night and went in the mail today...so you should get the parcel tomorrow or maybe Friday latest.. drop us a line to let us know its arrived safe buddy, and thanks again for your order... all the best.. Del.
Moonfleet41 Fan Fn tastic :) hahah and yeah that is a bit spooky lol guess i have to learn to be a little more patient in the future lol thanks for getting back to me so quickly, yourself and Penny rock and i will certainly let you know when it gets here :) thanks again :)
another great vid guys,got to do a complete rebuild on my blackbird ,do you have any tips on re bleeding them,duel brakeing system and all,many thx and I know its early but merry christmas
Hi Nick. if you dont need to change the fluid in the whole system, then just take the caliper banjo off, and emediatly turn it back on itself,m and hook it up so the fluid doesnt leak out too much... then whern you refit them, you can just bleed them up like a regular non linked system...it can help to bleed them with the caliper off the leg and helr up so the air rises to the nipple...use a chunk of old number plate to represent the disc or the pistons will pop out.. its a bit 'three hands' but you get a totally rocj hard bleed every time. Thanks for wathcing buddy, and good luck with it.. Del.
Man this is awesome, i am a complete ignorant when it comes to mechanics actually i am kind of scared, but you make it look so easy. The rear tire on my bike got stucked but after a half an hour or so it rotates normally again, do you think it is because the brakes are dirty ? Do you think i should give it a try and clean them up... Thanks a lot for any comment on this, i`ll appreciate any advice... forgive my limited english (my bike is Triumph Tiger 800XC 2014)
+Vinicio Aguilar Hi Vinicio, Sorry to hear about your brakes issue.. YES i think you should service the caliper, take it off and give it a good clean to get all the brake dust and road dirt out, then see if that clears it... Im glad we can inspire you my friend, good luck with it.. Del.
+Moonfleet41 sorry to bother you once again my friend, i already took everything apart, clean it up and when i try to put everything back together the piston doesnt want to go in, i am using only my fingers to push it in beacause a friend of mine told me not to use any tools so i can damage the piston. What can i do to push the piston in ? Man thanks a lot for all your help, this video as you said, really inspired me to get my hands in my bike, you make it look so easy, Thank you very much mate !
+Vinicio Aguilar Hi again Vinicio, its not uncommon to have a hard job fitting the pistons back in...first you can smear a very tiny amount of grease around the piston to help it slide in...and if they are really stiff, i use a "G-Clamp", put a cloth on the caliper to protect your piant, and if the clamp will not reach in to the bottom of the piston, you can put a small socket in there so the clamp can puch in the centre... that always works for me... good luck and let me know how you get on... Del.
Delboy, with the side walls of the pistons gathering crap, as the pads wear more of the side walls are exposed, so only if the pads are renewed and the pistons retract this maintenance is more important as the mating face of the seal needs a smooth surface to travel across?
Most pad thickness is less than 5mm, so hardly a huge amount more piston wall from 'new' to 'out'......and who would replace pads every time they clean thier brakes..!
No the point is the more the pads wear the more of the piston wall is exposed, so the contamination issue is only relevant if the pads need renewing as the pistons need to retract more and the cleanliness is more important with regard to the seal...??
***** No not in practice...its logical what you say...but in reality, the minute "in and out" of the piston in daily opperation is what gets jammed up with road salt and grime..
hey Del another wee brake related question for you, When it comes to getting my bike back on the road again after my off, im gonna have a bit of work to do such as cleaning the brakes again. i was wondering if having ABS would mean using a different method to whats in this video?
Hello mate, how you doing? ...bleeding ABS is a slightly different technique, but if all you're doing is bleeding out the calipers and leaving the lines plumbed up, then you shouldn't have any more trouble than a regualr bleed... take the banjo out of the caliper and turn the hose back on itself to stop it draining... then when you re-connect them, there's only a tiny bit missing... it's difficult to describe in an email, but see how you get on like that, and let me know if you have a problem!
Moonfleet41 thanks for that Del but i was just curious about cleaning, fluids will get done with the next service. I have no idea how ABS works. so wasnt sure whether taking calipers off and back on again needs to be done differently with ABS
Hello, Its almost imposible to get the copper grease in my country (Mexico) what do you think about using Litium grease instead copper grease just for the bolts threads? Not for the back of the brake pads. Greetings from Mexico!
Yes you could use that Enrique, it will work, but if the area gets hot, then the lithium grease can melt and flow... you could also use a threadlock as this also forms a barrier to prevent corrosion and can still be removed, use the medium blue stuff.
Del, I have been told in the past that copper slip on bolts effects torque accuracy when using a torque wrench, whats your thoughts on this? I've always copper slipped and then torqued on brake caliper bolts and I noticed you did the same - I'll have to start marker penning the bolts!
Hi mate...Lubricating any bolt gives you a better and more acurate torque result...it allows the bolt to turn in to its correct value fully and not stop short due to friction of metal to metal binding. and the only lub for anyting that gets hot is copper grease or graphite anti sieze..! and the marker paint is just my old OCD, nowt like being able to check the bolts at a glance any time..!
Cheers for replying. a big plus is less chance of seized bolts! :) I'll continue lubing mine! PS great idea for cleaning up the slider pin, I ended up buying new ones but this would have saved me some cash!
Hi Delboy, Just before 13:38 when pistons are clean and dry I normally spray a bit of Silicone spray on both inside and outside of the calliper and then when after a couple of minutes spray a bit of copper grease on the piston and some goes into the calliper. Do you have any experience with copper grease causing problems with the seals?
The copper powder within it can be abrasive to rubber seals mate, so always use a dedicated rubber lube wherever rubber bears against metal... it has long since been a practice to add a dab of copperslip to the back of pads to absorb the harmonic vibration that leads to squealing, it's even written on the packaging of copperslip... it's heatproof, so won't melt or work it's way on to the disc face, like I said just a dab mate....
Thanks mate, makes perfect sense to me. Although I've never had any problems with this in practice, I'll stop it. I appreciate your response. All the best.
Easy way to check...Salt is water soluable, and if you rinse it with lots pof hot soapy water then you'll desolve the salt....if its still scraping...then its time to look deeper..!
Great advice as always Del, especially the bit about using a dry pin. Never looked at it the way you do it before and now it makes perfect sense not to use copperslip on it. Duly noted :) I use one of these (link) to press my pistons back in and you can nip em in a tiny bit at a time if they're correctly adjusted. Keep up the good work. thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mM5dRjFsQTO3NJeULBDj0uw.jpg
im going to need your advice please, I was changing the brake fluid on my sportster rear brake, not sure the last time it was done if ever, ]only really just got it], it started coming out a dull yellow and plenty of bubbles in it after what seemed like an age on it, then it started coming out a dull white now its back to a dull yellow with bubbles still coming out. iv used about 3 quarters of a litre and its still wont clear do I need to carry on bleeding or do I need to get someone to look at it thanks jim
Hi Jim, your rear brake system holds a total of no more than a small cupful of fluid, maybe 1/4 pint tops, so if you have cleared the old stuff through and the fluid coming out now is fresh stuff you've put in the top, then the job is done... provided the fluid coming out now is the same colour as what you are pouring in, then it's just air bubbles... are you sure you're not allowing the fluid level in the cup to dry out when pumping through?? If so, you are dragging the air in... just bleed through without letting the cup run below 1/2" fluid level at the bottom, and make sure your bleed technique is not sucking air back in to the bleed valve.... do this by making sure you hold the pedal down, whilst you open and close the valve, good luck with it, hope that helps!
ok brake sorted, I think the problem was leaking nipple or a bad seal with the tube, what my real worry was it took 3 quarters of a litre for the fluid to come out clear. I did the front brake first and didn't have any trouble with it. so thanks for the advice keep up the good work and good luck with a Harley thing your trying out see you soon jim