I’m sure someone will have said by now- The blade is either a car body filler spatula. Or Similar use but ‘good grade’ sometimes stainless steel icing spatula. Great videos man thanks for sharing.
Many, many thanks! Like many others, I appreciate that you took the time to make a well organized, clear, thorough set of steps. Very easy to follow. Thanks again!
Thanks for that yougoattube, nice to hear it’s easy to follow. I absolutely adore this product, very satisfying to use. The only problem being you can get through a lot of silver especially any scrap that’s been saved up for something special … cheers … Nick
Thanks Laszlo, i’ve learnt a lot by watching other peoples videos and playing with this fabulous product over the years … so it’s nice to give back a bit and contribute to the pool of knowledge on RU-vid … all the best … Nick
That blade is called a dough scraper. It is used in the pizza industry and restaurants to size up pizza dough in different size weights and to scrape the dough out of the proofing trays before making a pizza.
Thanks for that Tri-Force Blades, seems obvious after googling dough scraper but you would never know if you’d not worked in a kitchen. If it had been sold as a sand casting scraper in the jewellery industry it would cost 10 times more … Nice to find tools at the cross boundaries … cheers … Nick
thanks for your comments, i’m never that certain of style and content….. I can only go with what I know … and hope its ok not sure what to do next… maybe more casting or bending jigs. all the best… Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Looking at this video again I felt you covered a lot of ground and could have possibly got 3 videos out of it. I cast mostly Aluminium name plates but dabbling at present in smaller decorative items and I must say having seen your range of cast items it has inspired me. I think another thing is people like to know in detail what equipment, like your Sievert gas set up and your raw materials & findings . I use an homemade furnace to melt my metals in a Salamander crucible for large items and small Cookson crucibles for the decorative pieces. Anyway keep it up !
thanks for your comments covehithe, yes I was going to have more content in these videos but being new to all this a two-part video was enough of a challenge to start with. i’m always wondering what video to do next …. maybe it should be more detail on materials and equipment … have been wanting to scale things up to a larger crucible and furnace for more bronze decorative pieces one day…. just not got round to it yet. aluminium nameplates sounds like a great skill to learn. I would like to do some natural looking nature scenes in bronze possibly plate shaped with dried flowers and grasses. all the best Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Nameplates - basically little skill - model 3D printed - the pfaff is getting a draft on the text so they release from the mould - you need expensive software to do this yourself - we use a free drafted text from Thingiverse and create back plate on FreeCad. The bronze plates sound good especially if you are artistic as some of your work shows. For me a bigger furnace would be good, but the problem is that the big gas ones create a lot of noise.
yes I see, pattern making with text must have dramatically changed with the introduction of 3-D printing. i’ve always fancied having a go especially after seeing what resin printers can do. but unfortunately have been put off knowing how much pc time and effort I would have to put in to learn Digital 3-D…. I started out and was very inspired by a workshop I participated in… a weekend of bronze bell and sculpture casting techniques using lost wax and ceramic shells….. and big pots of molten bronze…… Nick
Hi Kenton, I made this casting flask out of a piece of steel box section that was 75mm x 50mm x 3mm. Had a lot of use out of it however it’s not quite big enough to cast a ring shank. Have been meaning to make another a bit bigger for rings … Cheers … Nick
Hi Jihua, I made this casting flask out of a piece of steel box section that was 75mm x 50mm x 3mm two pieces cut 30mm long. Had a lot of use out of it however it’s not quite big enough to cast a ring shank. Have now made another one a bit bigger for rings … here’s the link to the video showing how I made the new one … ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tM5fhFKHNBs.html … Cheers … Nick
Hi Bikash, the standard torch a lot of jewellers use is called a “Smith’s Little Torch” it runs on a mixture of propane and oxygen and can burn incredibly hot … N
Hello, Nick, love your videos, their very informative and fun to watch. I'm interested in starting a sand casting and purchased a cast iron flask that came with 5 pounds of 130 mesh Petrobond quick cast sand casting clay. The Petrobond that came with the flask is a mixture of fine sand, clay and oil. I tried casting and the mixture seems too dry and crumbly. It didn't hold it's shape in the flask and I wasn't able to pour the casting. I looked at remarks from customers on Amazon who bought the same item and some had the same problem with dry Petrobond. The advice from others on Amazon was to add a few drops of oil to the Petrobond mixture. One person adviced 30 weight non detergent motor oil, another suggested linseed oil and the last person to give advice said he had success with mineral oil ( Johnson's baby oil ). Which type of oil to you think would be the best to use? Thank you.
hi Lonewolf, sorry to hear of your problems with petrobond. so annoying to purchase a product that doesn’t perform as it is supposed to. i’ve only ever used Delft Clay and not looked at alternatives yet. I have read a well-made Petrobond is supposed to be very similar to Delft Clay and I once saw a video where somebody compares a few variations. The only real difference was that Petrobond had a bit more of a grainy finish to the castings surface. if it was me with this problem, I think I would test a few different oils with the main issue being the amount used. I would guess a two stroke motor oil would be a good start. I would mix a few very small batches and then try compacting them and open casting a couple of grams of silver into a small depression. all oils burn I think it’s just a matter of finding the one that is the most heat resistant … good luck with it … I hope you get it sorted … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Hello Nick, I decided to take your advice and buy delft clay. I'm looking for the best impressions and delft clay seems to be the answer. With the two stroke oil with Petrobond I wasn't able to get the quality castings that I'm looking for. I hope to make quality impressions of shell carvings that have some undercut to the design. I use the Queen Helmet Shell for the shell carvings. The design side of the shell is slightly domed ( convex). When I receive the delft clay is it possible for me to push the carved side of the shell cameo almost entirely into the delft clay and close the other side of the flask to get the impression of the small amount that wasn't pushed in all the way, then open it, remove the carved shell cameo and basically carve the channels for the silver to flow to the impression? Will there be any problem with the casting pushing the piece almost entirely in? There are some small holes carved into the designs and the design of the piece goes all the way to the outside edge of the piece ( a traditional shell cameo doesn't do that). Looking for it to your repply. Thanks.
Hi Lonewolf, i’m sure you’ll get on really well with original Delft Clay, expensive stuff but I love it for the results that can be achieved. I can try and share a few tips and tricks that might help you with your projects. Undercut is one of the worst enemies of Delft Clay casting. I try to eliminate them by remodelling the pattern using wax or putty to temporarily fill them or reshape them. Holes can even be filled with talcum powder. The perfect model will release and fall out of its cavity easily without causing any of the edges of the sand to tear out. This can be checked before the model is replaced in its cavity and the second half of the flask filled. I always dust the model with parting powder before blowing it off this will leave a very thin invisible film that helps the model release. The tighter the sand can be packed the better the details can be picked up. However model strength needs to be taken into account for this. When pushing your shell in all the way I would use a lot more parting powder around the edges of the shell. This will help prevent it getting locked in after the second half has been packed and will not affect the casting too much because it will create more of a cavity on the inside edges only. My preferred casting position for a pattern like yours would be with a vertical split similar to this short video ru-vid.com6W6Aqv_wKfY For a few reasons … less venting is needed, less airlocks especially with your concave shaped pattern, the cavity can fill quickly in this position helping with thin castings also less Delft Clay wastage. When casting in the horizontal position, the sprue can lock the hot casting in the sand causing more burnt sand and causing more unretrievable mixing of burnt sand when pushing the casting out of the mould. Practice makes perfect with Delft Clay however I would never do a pour until I am completely happy with the mould that I’ve just made i’d rather knock it out and start again or even try it a different way this costs nothing but time. I try to use minimal amounts of parting powder to reduce the dilution effect on the Delft clay. Hope this helps … N
@@Nickscreativestuff Hello, Nick, thank you very much. We'll have the cameos carved with minimum undercut. You're advice of filling the holes with talcum powder is greatly appreciated. All of your advice was great. I'll take all of it into consideration when the delft clay arrives. Thank you so much for your quick response and great advice.
