I really enjoy this video, Im starting my detailing business as well and you most definitely saved me some money! Appreciate your experience and sharing!
@@Detailers-Business-Academy So have we done this yet? Because I don't believe that there is any real way to do that. I am talking about wheels as well, a full wash. I know I am at about 20-25 min typically for wheels, tires, wheel wells, and inner barrels alone. If you do this... please for the love of God, don't use a car that is clean enough to where you just have to wipe the wheels down with a rinseless wash, that's not realistic.
No I haven’t had a car that shows dirt on camera. If you believe it can’t be done, then you will never be able to accomplish it. Finally for this type of service don’t waste your time cleaning what the customer never sees. Wheel barrels and wells only receive APC foamed on, and pressure washer, the wheel faces and tires get brushed.
Coming back to this video to leave a helpful comment for viewers. I was always nervous to do a “true” rinseless wash, not even pre soaking just straight sponge to paint. I tried it and it not only saves so much time it also cleans incredibly well and left no marring. Obviously if the car is beyond normal dirt and film you’ll need a pre rinse. But if you’re already going to be claying and or polishing you shouldn’t be worried about any minor marring this may cause. Seriously it’s a game changer. And I followed Yvans way of not drying the paint but going straight to claying. I found as well that although manufacturers recommend a stronger mix of rinseless as a clay lube, if you’ve left the rinseless on the surface, and apply some more 256:1 to the area, it’s more than enough lubricant for the clay bar to easily glide along. I hope some other detailer’s begin to incorporate this faster wash process of cutting to the chase in their details, saving water and time, and ultimately increasing profits. Seriously, you can wash, clay, dry, and give the car a quick once around polish in like an hour.
Yvan just casually dropping knowledge bombs. Picked up very useful insignts. The 5 Top things that improved my efficiency the most in the past: 1. The Detailing Cart with 3 diffrent polishers, all plugged in, ready to go. Also built in, a suction system for polish residue. 2. The Belt with the Compound and Polish around my waist -> Shortest Paths possible 3. The Scan-Grip Light on my head is the only light I use. I have two, one is charging in my trolley. 4. The Wash Process -> Wash rinseless, Clay directly when the paint is still wet, dry with a bit of IPA. 5. Simplyfy the polishing process to cutting with microfiber pads and polishing with foam. I also reorganized my workspace, I now use see-through containers to store microfiber towels, retractable cables and pressure lines.
The mention of a 'detailing cart' was brilliant. At my age (53) I am ashamed of how much time over the years I've lost literally walking 'back and forth' because I forgot a bottle of product I knew I needed/wanted yet simply forgot. 'Clean shiny scratches'... :) I'm learning. I need to lower my passion and enjoy life more.
Im only an enthusiast, not a pro but the last few years implementing yvans tips and switching to onr etc has saved me so many hours, days and days worth of time. If I were a pro that could be money 💰. Thanks yvan
I will do an experiment. I just bought a foam blower, smh. I will do a car with foam cannon and then do a waterless wash on another car and see the difference. I will also work on my SOP. I will post it and I’m excited to get your feedback!! You really did an amazing job calming all concerns and made it exciting to do it knowing that I can cut the time in half….. great breakdown
I'm not a pro, just a guy who loves detailing and a big fan of Yvan over the years. That said, so much good info about how to survive in a business. Yvan is giving the same dose of reality I've heard from our friend Mike Philips; and that reality is... the general public is not that critical of the paint on their car as we are. They're going to take a 10 foot view and call it good... they are not likely to whip out a swirl finder light and go over the whole car looking for slight defects and imperfections. I've watched a handful of these videos and it's obvious to me(as a business owner) that Yvan knows a lot about detailing and business.
I would love to get a Lake Country wash pad 4000 but they are almost impossible to get in Portugal sadly, if you ever come by Portugal please bring one Yvan I will pay you dinner Awesome awesome video
Love my lake country pad washer! Had to Frankenstein my draw tube since it cracked off. But she still does it's job. Tried contacting LC to see if there's a part I could purchase to fix but they haven't answered my emails
Your channel is growing on me. I've watched two years worth of that one guy. Then the two other guys and the girl. I have learned alot. Weeded through the smoke screens. Your approach makes way more sense. Time is money. I've kept some learning and moved on from others. I'll keep watching.
Yvan, some of the things you comment on apply to other service based businesses as well. I have a computer consulting company and efficiency is something we discuss much of the time.
Completely agree with everything you’ve said! Very insightful! Keep them videos coming! I like efficiency as well. When doing interiors which I do a lot of! I hate cleaning them down with an apc and then going over everything with a dressing. So I came up with my own mix of 2:1:7 of apc:dressing:water. That way I can clean and dress the interior in one swoop. No need for an interior dressing and leather dressing and what not. Same solution for the whole interior except shampooing. Thanks again!
@@yukonstriker1703 yup no worries! You can always play with the dressing and apc ratios depending on the interiors Condition. This techie works for about 80-90% Of the jobs. If it’s super neglected then you might have to do the regular 2 step method. Clean with Apc then go over with dressing. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Hi Yvan, as always another great video, awesome information and saying it how it is… And me ONR, a big steamer 😉 = shiny ✨ vehicle and happy customers. Looking forward to next one.. have a great weekend.
I videotaped myself the first time I heard you suggest it, it cut my detailing times almost in 1/2. You need a patreon so we can give back to you what you have given to us.
I’m definitely coming back for a tutorial video to see the rinseless wash in action! (I’m more of a visual learner) and I wish I saw this video before I bought a foam cannon 😭
Hey Yvan, great points as always. Two things, first, I like your idea of Wash/Clay/Wax. Give us an idea of a clay towel that you like/recommend. Also, you say to use a wax that works with a clay towel. What should we look for and how can we tell which wax is compatible with a with a clay towel ? Secondly, The Lake Country System 4000 is absolutely, the best thing I ever bought. It's affordable and works 100% like it's supposed to. I honestly don't understand why detailers are hesitant to get one. It's a massive benefit to efficiency.
Thanks for the comments Dale. The Rag Company towel or the McKee’s 37 clay mitts work well for this. You wast a good quality spray wax without high solvent content. The System 4000 is one of the few products I openly recommend, it should come with every polisher.
I use the foam cannon to spray the soap (oh no soap 😱🤣) and clay when the foam is on the surface. Did that to my Subaru and it actually came pretty good. It looked like it was polished. Thanks for the tips Yvan!!
Hey Yvan, Thank you so much for these videos they help out a ton! At the detail shop I work for I am going to switch them over to a rinseless wash. I was thinking of getting McKee's N-914 and am not sure what product would be the best to clay and wax or seal the car. Is there anything I should look for? or will most of their products work in a synergistic manner?
The rince less wash followed by the clay mitt with the iron remover saved me tons of useless steps! You gave me that tricks yrs back, and i never looked back! also, 3 polishers i have rotary---15 mm DA, and small DA different paint hardness, different approach! Standard ops... Efficiency~! i also use super concentrated products in 1/2 gallon or Gallon size that i can cut from 1:4 all the way to 1:20 depending on products..[tire/wheel cleaners----glass cleaners---enzyme bug removers.etc... ] save tons of money and you control the power of your mix!
I am new and guilty of trying way too many products and my storage locker has reached full status. Time now to pick one in each category and follow your advice.
@@Detailers-Business-Academy And space and make me better informed detailer as well! Need the LC Pad Washer 4000 but I rarely find anyone wanting a paint enhancement.
Great video Yvan 👍🏻 just a Quick question though how would you clay and rusttreat a car with ONR without rinsing afterwards? also why is ONR out of Stock in all shops in Denmark 😒 keep em coming 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Unfortunately rinsing is required with an iron remover. You can wipe it off with your Rinseless, but there may be some residual red tracing the next time it rains. I retired from Optimum 3 years ago, so I have no idea what’s going on.
What is this mat washer you speak of, old nan?! 😁 Never heard of it. Who makes it? Where do i find one? What makes them worth the huge price tag you mentioned? You didnt elaborate, like, at all. Thanks for the tips and your time Yvan.
@@Detailers-Business-Academy Ahem... I asked about the MAT washer. I know what the pad washer is and personally-and this is just my opinion - they're way over priced . I can buy a metric ton of pads and use them only once for the price of the pad washer. I use Persil which has been tested and shown to rinse out the most thoroughly of all brands tested. Additionally, I have a clothes wringer and a clothes washer that spins at 1100 rpms. No exaggeration, it spins things nearly dry. I can't justify spending that kind of money on something I see as a gimmick. Now about that mat washer you spoke of ..
I'm in my late sixties and enjoy detailing my cars. What 3 or 4 tools would you recommend for older guys like myself that are much better ergonomically for the knees, back, joints, etc. ?
Thank you for creating these videos! Since I have started detailing I have found your videos very informative and helpful! I have been able to offer a better service with less work. For they wash/clay/wax simultaneous process, will it work they same if you use a spray sealant instead of a wax?
Hey Yvan. Would you say its a waste of time to clean the client's fuel cap when doing a WCC? I'm not sure how picky clients are that pay a lot of money to have their car detailed?
On the pad washer, is the lake country "similar in theory" to the old optimum unit? I have the opt and they seem eerily "similar". Also Ive found while using optimum polishes that after a few panels the pad gets full of oil and even washing with power clean on the pad the washer just isn't able to clear enough out to continue without swapping pads. I use maybe 4 pads for a mid size SUV. Waffle lake country/opt pads. Maybe I'm over working the product or using too much?
Yes, same unit. I would agree on both counts. Only one spray on the pad, never put clean polish on a dirty pad, lowest speed your rotary will go. If you’re using a da the slowest speed that will maintain backing plate rotation. In both cases no pressure on the machine, and 3-4 overlapping passes.
@@Detailers-Business-Academy Oops! I think you just inadvertently just recommended a product, albeit software, Yvan. 😀 I like it! I feel it's ok to make recommendations based on your experiences with it. It's when you're given the product for free or paid for a review, that the appearance of a conflict of interest comes into play. If a company has a good product, they deserve to have it talked about. It's what we do as consumers. If you don't share, and I have a crappy experience with a product I chose, I may never return to detailing and be turned off for good. Where as, had I used your recommendation, I have a better chance at a favorable experience using products that others have already vetted for me, and I continue to detail forever. 🤣 I probably didn't change your mind, but at least I tried. Haha
@@joelpasserell4525 agreed, for detailing products themselves there are too many good products in each category to focus on one. Where there is a definitive clear choice , then I do recommend it. Urable is one of those that really has no equal in my opinion. There are a few products/ tools that I make mention of because they are unique, and definitively stand above the crowd.
Okay Yvan, I have seen the TRC video of you doing the clay with Optimum Spray Wax. Question have you ever seen this done with some of the spray sealants instead of the spray wax?
Ivan, which clay towel and spray wax do you recommend? There are literally hundreds out there and it's very confusing so any spray wax and clay towel combo that you have worked with and can recommend would be truly appreciated, thank you
I've asked an youtube detailer haow many pads he's using for a car correction and he said 6. If I can polish a car with one pad and lake country pad washing bucket that would be nice. Is that what you're saying ? Thank you for this video
I have been playing with onr and multiple towel method. Seems to be working great, except I have a tendency to miss spots, mainly getting into tighter areas like grill and front bumper inserts. More so then with soap and a wash pad I mean. Any tips or advice on why this is?
Get a good wash sponge, the towels don’t follow contours well. Towels create pressure points, require too much effort, and as you’re experiencing are not as effective. amzn.to/2ZVdGkP
The multi towel method was born from people entirely too petrified of “scratching” their car (which the term scratch can mean 1000 things online) There’s video evidence of how even a slightly dirty towel and ONR (or other good rinseless) can be safe on a just corrected panel (not that you _should_ do that HAha) Here’s a better method: use a good sponge like Yvan said, or get a plush wash pad. AutoFiber sells pads that can be adjusted to your desired level of thickness. Stick a single, plush towel in your rinseless bucket and also grab a soft synthetic detail brush to put in there too. Use the detail brush for those hard to clean areas. Mirror trim, window trim, grills, badges/emblems, etc. Wash with the sponge, and use your soaking towel to gently go over and re-wet the surface for drying. This will grab any random spots of missed dirt, then dry! Will also save you lots of laundry.
Unless it’s so hot it’s drying before you can finish, whole car is better. You’re also reducing the risk of your drying towel accidentally hitting a dry, dirty spot and dragging it into your clean panel.
If you perform a traditional wash with car soap and then rinse, is it ok to use a waterless product (like Meguiar’s waterless cleaner) as a drying aid?
ahh the not seeing the forest thru the tees (infant step)... progress to seeing the leaves on the trees (intermediate step) but those who can see the space between the leaves... ahh yes grasshoppper you're ready to be predictive and to anticipate. it's not the good or great that makes the proficient detailer but the few, if any mistakes padawan makes
I'm not running a big enough operation to justify the cost - but I can see where it would benefit a larger shop. That said, I am looking for ways to speed up the process, especially some of the hammered floor mats I see on the regular 👍
Keep them dry to remove the majority of the dirt. A common procedure that make cleaning them difficult is starting with a pressure washer, it creates mud. Starting with a brush will remove the majority of the dirt, and often no water is needed.
How do people make $100 an hour doing an interior?? There is no way. A standard car starts at $200. I have never ever seen anyone clean fully clean a dirty car in 2 hours. I am talking clean the seats, carpets, mats, panels, glass, door jambs, and then UV protection, and leather condition if leather. That takes closer to about 5 - 6 hours to do and I don't see many people willing to pay $500 - $600 for the interior. Heck even if it took 3-4 hours... still not many are going to pay $300-$400 on an interior detail.
Take a video of yourself doing the job, you will see where time is being wasted. If you’re not being profitable doing interiors, either figure out how to be profitable, or stop doing them. Dressings should be optional. Cars do not require interior UV protection unless it’s a convertible ( automotive glass stops UV).
@@Detailers-Business-Academy Exactly, if you need more than one layer, I say it's not a vary good product if you need twice the product and twice the time for the same or similar results.
Not really a fair comment, technology moves on, and Optimum was one of the first in the game and did a lot for the industry. also 3-4 coats with optimum? It was one or two coats depending on Pro or Pro Plus.
@@Obsessioncardetailing As far as I know currently it's still a 3+ layer system they were advertising it as a lifetime coating early in the year now its a 7- year coating. Not exactly a bad product but more of a unnecessary one in my opinion. I've have yet to see a single coatings hydrophobics go more than 3.5 yrs with proper mainance and that's what most folk would say is the purpose of the coating. Really they need to switch to a standardized rating system. We aren't washing our vehicles with dawn dish soap and I would say most folks wash there vehicles once per week. The top companies should set a better standard otherwise ppl will put water and silicone online a bottle and say it lasts for months and months and charge a premium. F11.
@@dustin3700 I had cars with OptiCoat pro plus go 4-5 years owned by people who washed them regularly. I don’t know what they are doing now though, three layer etc. however there are plenty of companies that make and advertise 2-3 layer coatings, and they are designed for a very boutique clientele and use case. The Feynlab self healing coatings for example, or Kamikaze coatings, they aren’t for your everyday customer and you charge accordingly.
