Excellent. You mentioned adding weights in case of vibration. I guess I'll have to look up videos that show that, but your video shows the depth of knowledge machinists have from experience. Truly remarkable. I have 3 college degrees and I greatly admire the acumen level displayed by so called "blue collar" workers. It definitely rivals people with degrees, as many I know that've gotten through college are dolts.
You would need a chuck with t-slots cut into it between the jaws. Weights are added to the slots and moved towards/away from center to find balance. I've been fortunate to work with some really gifted people and I've learned a lot. Young people have a lot to teach with technology as an example. I always tell my students "we are all teachers". Thank you for your kind words.
Great video, excellent job explaining the steps and demonstrating dialing in an off center piece in a lathe. I really learned a lot watching this one. Videos like this really help us hobbyist trying to learn new tricks. Thank you
Little trick I use is to chuck up the dead center in the tail stock, lock the stock, and while holding the plate, with the jaws open enough where they don't interfere, introduce pressure with the tail stock until it presses the metal plate against the jaws. You then lightly tighten the jaws, and proceed exactly as you did. The advantage is, it gets you a lot closer to center quicker, making less adjustments to the jaws. Just a time saver.
Ever since I took a university course that involved me in using machining tools I've always wanted to work with them again (never had the chance since covid hit). This was one of the unanswered questions I had since my part only required a 3 jaw chuck, I had no idea how to dial in anything that isnt round or off centered. Great informative video!
Use a lever type dial indicator and adjust hole towards the center by halving the total reading. You can get it very close to true by using the center (light pressure) to hold the block when you start and then bring the jaws in until it touches the block. Then use lever type dial indicator for final setting. Always works and is quick!
Where did the centerhole come from ? - why put everythin op in 4jaws? - so stupid - unaccurate and a lot of time for nothing. If you want to use the lathe use a 3 jaw - its quicker and set a big plate in it with some screwholes and use the pinol to center the hole - then fasten the part with the srewholes on the bigger plate - and you are ready to make the hole. - You US folks are so mutch left behind with your 4 jaws and and and - or use your HURCO - its fast in everything & some US made. Just a friendly adwise from an old tool & parts -maker ++++ from EU with 59 years of experience.
As a cnc router operator, I appreciate the explanation. A 4 jaw chuck has always intimidated me. Maybe not so much now. Kinda makes me want to go out and buy a lathe.
I'm truly convinced it's kids just being dicks or miserable haters. If you don't like it why comment unless it's something that is really unsafe and could injure someone?
It's been a year and I'm looking at this video once again before I set up my lathe chuck for a similar project. I can't imagine why you haven't had any more comments on this. You did a great job explaining every step and precaution needed to machine safely. Thanks so much.
I don't about Mike but I really learned from it! I own a 109 series dunlap lathe and want to make a tail stocl locking device that works with a cam actiom, now I know how to set it upst start! thanks.
The next question is why you would need to do this? I guess part of the answer would depend upon what equipment you have in your workshop and just what you are trying to achieve.
What I don't get is: if he had the part set up in a milling machine to do the initial centre-drilling, why didn't he then replace the centre-drill with a twist drill of the required size and just go ahead and drill the hole?
My 3-jaw and especially 4-jaw chuck are way too heavy to change , so i weld a round piece to the square (or any other shape) , do the work i need to do and cut of the round piece . much faster , but only when accuracy is not important
@@davidwillard7334 You asked how much the lathe weighed and i answered the question! Well oke , my 4- jaw is 38cm in diameter and 11 cm wide , it s out of a massive piece of steel and an adapter is attached . I ve calculated it must weigh about 70 kg . I can hardly lift it and defenitely not on my lathe .
dumb nub here. why do 'purists' think it's best to put a piece of cloth between the jaw and the work? is it simply to protect the work from the pressure of the jaw, or can it help keep the work flush with the jaws as well?
A piece of cloth is a new one to me, uneven surfaces. Most will put a soft metal shim between the work and the jaw to protect the surface of the work. Had the video been anything other than a demonstration I likely would have/should have protected the work piece.
Hi Paul, glad it helped. Some 4-jaw chucks, usually larger, have t-slots in the face. The slots are between the Jaws running towards the center of the chuck. These slots are used to bolt counterweight. Thanks for watching and your note. Bison%204-Jaw%20Independent%20Lathe%20Chuck16%22%20Size%2C%20D1-6%20Spindle%20-%207-853-1636%20%20Four-jaw%20standard%20duty%20independent%20Lathe%20C...
As a retired toolmaker making moulds for plastic bottles this was done on a daily basis.The parts were halves of moulds usually 4 impression so 4 bores ,each one had to be accurate to .001.I had to clock each part machine the move and so on.The biggest moulds I did the steel blocks were 13"x6"x8" when offset to machine the last bore they needed 25kg of counterbalance
Great work, but I think you should balance the spindle for a more accurate precision work. The off balance of the chuck will make a MICRO oval shaped hole due to the unnoticed wobbling. Great educational video however.
You did that pretty fast! I recently bought a centering microscope that will fit the tailstock or the mill spindle. You video makes me think "why do I need the centering scope for the lathe, after watching this?" But I guess it will stil come in handy on the mill with a rotary table or the dividing head when I have a four chuck on them for milling, boring, drilling odd shaped or eccentric pieces (and that DOES happen from time to time in model engineering, like scale locomotives and such). Thanks!!
But the workpiece is sitting further away from the chuck face on the two jaws you reversed, no? It is snug into those two jaws, but for the jaws you didn't reverse it is just floating and it may move once pressure is applied by the tool...
+machiningmoments ....this is mi job in Mexico, and that was an excellent trick or idea . If you are going to do a big diameter this is the best option to find the point X and Y ...I will check it out your channel...
Don't have the RPM too fast or you'll be wearing the chuck for a Hat! I know of guys where the centrifugal force has broken the Lathe Spindle & taken a guy's head off!! Slow revs are the order of the day here or balance weights!!
Yes. Good one. Did exactly the same thing just yesterday with a heavier n larger plate. How would one counter-balance the the overhang without using a Face Plate ??? Thanks anyway for showing and sharing ATB aRM
In the past I have used a 4-jaw with T-slots between the jaws. It is very convenient to attach a counterweight to. If you can't rig something up I'd recommend low RPM or your suggestion of a face plate. Thank you for sharing!
I've used that same method myself, as well as using two crossed scribe lines for rough work. With a little Dykem and two scribe lines, you can detect center pretty darn close. Good vid.
great trick, you could do this with most standard dead centers too as most have a center drill hole in the end of the shank from when they were originally ground, no need for a special shaft. thank you for sharing this!
Good to see fella. Not many would think of that but merely put their center in the drilled hole. I was taught this method by an old turner I met in a unit where I worked after getting my old Myford super severn. I made my bar from ground stock. It is the best way. I was trying to tell a newbie to lathe's friend the other day and I said I bet there is a youtube video on it and better than me trying to explain it if you don't know the terms. Then I found this so I'll Link it to him. Thanks for posting.
+Fred196407 Hi Fred, thanks for the note and helping the next generation learn. I too learned tricks like this from an "old timer"...funny, I have become the old timer! Good point about the ground stock.
Best to do that with all four jaws reversed if the part allows it or use a spider to support the side of piece that is not resting on the jaws. Great video! Keep up the good work!
+Bob Cartwright If I remember right the issue was the jaws touching each other before it was able to tighten on the material. Thanks for your support, stay warm!
I normally don't work with square offset pieces like this, but that rod you used to indicate the piece in is something I will definitely store in the back of my mind. Never thought of that.
Get that revolving centre or dead centre up making sure your parallel at the Jaws then clamp it up it should centralise with the centre wound up ....you’ll know when it’s right
Well done sir. My only difference is that I just use a wiggler in the tailstock to indicate the runout rather than a machined piece. Also measuring the offset to center to start the setup makes things a lot easier. Have an upvote.
Great way of doing it , in the toolmaking trade we use a small fixed centre between the rotating centre and the centre drill hole and index off this so it wobbles the same , save making the tapered tool you have made and they are hardened steel and will last forever Nice one same principal , Keep up the good work , Alan
I have used this technique but instead of making a tool I just used the dead center that came with my lathe. The end of the dead center has a center hole from the original grinding. Works great.
Nice to watch a video on here without all the music banging out and good content well done will make the tool for my dial indicator to run on good trick
