Best video onTSI timing chain replacement ever. Thanks you so much for taking the time and effort to help out people like me to fix their cars. Only wished you didn't cut the part when you rotated the engine twice before tightening the bolts. Thanks heaps ❤️
This is awesome explanation and examples with all tips and tricks included. Great job .Many thanks to share and support others who are really straggling to know and to get their car back in the road and safe to drive without a noisy engine. Thanks it was very useful.
Great video, got a 1.4 tsi cavd that is suffering from a cold misfire which stops when the engine comes up to temp. Just replaced the camshaft pulleys and timing chain as thought the vvt pulley on the inlet cam was the issue but still missing when cold. 150 psi compression on all 4, new plugs, tried coils
About to do my timing chain kit on my 1.6 fsi vw golf got the timing tools and done Ford timing chains in past but they don’t come with dial.. quick question all I gotta do is put it to tdc on cylinder one with tdc dial then lock cams and crank change it all turn engine over twice to see if still in time and job done? Everyone telling me I got to find TRUE TDC with the tdc dial ?? 🤦🏼♂️🤷♂️
A can't believe how much detail you go into its great u make it sound easy I have mk5 golf 1.4 tsi blg with fault code p2004 can't get rid of it you ever come across this code
I try to be informative in the videos if i can. I make next to nothing out of youtube, so I'm glad to get comments like yours. P2004 is inlet flaps stuck i believe. I'd check vacuum to the actuator, and check the solenoid that the ecu uses to control the vacuum to the flaps. If you have access to vcds you should be able to do an output test of the solenoid, and put a vacuum pump on it and see if the the solenoid works. That's where I'd start. If the engine has been apart, from memory some of the earlier fsi and tsi 1.6 and 1.4, the flaps can get bent/jammed in the port if you don't open them slightly when installing. Hope some of that helps.
@@FourRingsAuto I got with turbo blown replaced it it was still smoking when I checked car closer inlet wasn't on properly as u described flaps were jamed I wonder if it has bent them I can see the rod what controls the flaps move when u turn egnition on thanks for your help
@@FourRingsAuto think I will check could this cause a misfire on 1 cylinder only doesn't show any fault codes just on misfire counter u can notice it on idle changed plugs swopped coil to different cylinder it stays with the cylinder
@@peterhardy7680 possible as it would be similar to carbon build up i guess. Also, make sure there isn't carbon build up whilst you're there. Compression test is always worthwhile on a 1.4tsi though. Cracked pistons are a common issue. I have another video discussing this, and would make sense with your oil burning too.
Hi thanks for the vid, just a question. On re assembly, before timing case goes back on... Did you take the crank bolt out, how to get crank pulley back on, wirhout removing crank bolt, is it ok to remove crank bolt with tensioner released? Or am i missing something? Thanks
Great ! fabulous description¬ having just acquired a 2011 Skoda SE, 1.4 TSI with 24,000k, when would you recommend this procedure carried out, and does this model take the updated chain kit? I'm in Northampton - any clue who can properly do it?
I have this engine in a SEAT toledo. Its 5 years old with 50,000mi. What would you say would be a sensible mileage to have someone take this apart and check the timing chain as a preventative item? I've bough a vacuum extractor to allow me to change the oil and hopefully avoid leaving a couple hundred ml in the sump as you mention happens when you drain from the plug. Great video.
There is a way to measure timing chain stretch with a degree wheel on the crank pulley. That is the way vw workshop manual explains how to do it. You can also remove just the sump and look directly at the timing chain tensioner from underneath and easily see how far out it is protruding, which would give an idea of how worn the chain is.
hey thanks for the video! I have a problem with my 1.4 TSI CAXA because the timing of the outlet camshaft seems to shift after running for about 10 seconds. Everytime we start it runs fine for a couple seconds, then runs rough, and a couple seconds later the engine stops. When we check the timing we can see the outlet camshaft is off by just a couple degrees. We have put everything into timing about four times now and tried new bolts, loctite on the outlet bolt, higher torque on the outlet bolt but to no avail. It just doesn't grip the outletgear tightly enough. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this or if we are forgetting something? Might get a new camshaft and gear but i dont think that will fix it. The outlet cam bolt can have a max of around 80 nm i think and when we loosen it it seems to be near 75 so giving the bolt an extra 90 degrees will most likely cause it to break. Any help or insight is appreciated!
Thanks for all your videos on this engine, they have been really helpful to me. At the end you say to crank the engine without starting to build up the oil pressure. What's the best way to do this on this car. Is pulling the ignition fuse enough? If so, which one? There are two: 'switch' and 'main'. Many thanks.
I have one question.The fuel pressure pump make a clicking sound at idling and the go more loud when accelerate, is that normal? And I getting two faults code p0016 and p2293.The engine management light is on. Could you please help?
Thank you. It is very helpful . I am opening a 1.4 tsi 160 . I don’t find a Technical Repair Manual. Can you give me a link where i can buy one please.
Is it a spring or hydrualik tentioner? I have a a3 from 08 with th 1.4 tfsi engine, and it rattles on startups, but it disapears in seconds. And the chain has been replaced from 30.000 km by a proffesional. Is it to worry about or is it just before it gets lubed og tensioned
I am currently doing mine and i have got the chain on. Onto tighthrjing the sprockets up. I have both tools in to lock the crank n cam and am tightening them but i don’t seem to need a holding tool due to the sprockets not moving… Can i do it this way if i can still get enough talk on it?
Hi. When I put the t10171 tool for timing the camshaft, I saw that two inlet valves of the second cilinder are open. Is it right? Or all valves need to be closed? Thanks
Yeah cylinder 2 would be at BDC so likely small amount of opening on the inlets. Cylinder 3 will likely have small amount of exhaust beginning to open. Do u have any running issues? Replaing chain due to stretch or jumped timing?
@@FourRingsAuto hi. Thanks for the solution. My chain jumped and the chain guides destroyed over all engine (little plastics). Broken all camshaft followers and hydraulic tappets . Valves changed 16. New pistons and rings too. New rear main seal, crankshaft bearings, vvt pulley. Tks
Salut ✌... j'ai le même problème sur une Audi A1 1.4.l tfsi 122 (CAXA). Le moteur claque aussi, j'ai un message pression d'huile insuffisante. 😟 faut-il que je remplace aussi la pompe à huile ? Merci beaucoup pour votre retour 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Hello I’ve got a seat Leon 1.4tsi CAXC my chain only makes noise on cold start but goes away when warmed up, do u think it’s caused damage in the engine now Bcus I heard the valves can bend etc also I don’t have any lights on dash
If the valves were bent it would run terribly, or not at all. Rattle from cold start is due to either as stretched chain and the tensioner has to refill with oil that had emptied out, the slack chain then rattles. Or it is the variable valve timing variator. Both require the timing chain cover removing to get a proper idea of what the issue is.
Yeah that bolt puts it at tdc, but it is still advised to check tdc with dti guage on the piston crown through the spark plug hole. Whenever I've done it with my kit though, tdc is the same spot as the bolt stops at against the crank.
Hi there, thanks for the great video. Unfortunately a family members 1.4tsi golf 5 jumped timing. I was going to tackle job myself as I’m fine on the tools but with time constraints sent to a local garage. The engine didn’t run after slip. Garage reported valves are bent. In your opinion what’s req for the job? can you just change new valves in , Lap them, new head gasket and be done or would you be changing anything else. Thanks
Valve guides can be cracked or ovalled when valves get bent. Depends on rpm that it occurred. Better off sending the head away to a machine shop for testing. A good machine shop can make there own valve guides as vw doesn't specify them as a spare part. Don't use a machine shop that puts inserts in the guides!
@@FourRingsAuto thanks for the reply! Going to tackle it myself as there’s so much labour involved. Will send to a machine shop. is this video the same for the 1.4tsi GT variant?
Great stuff, you guys are very professional & meticulous with your repairs. I hope the owner of the featured vehicle has been shown this footage! As an aside is it worth removing/replacing the sump on these tsi cars after 9/10 years? I imagine there would be a lot of sludge in there regardless of oil change intervals? Anyways keep the vids coming, particularly the twincharged ones!
Only needed if there is wear/sharp edges or teeth on the sprockets, or the inlet variator doesn't lock. It is not 100% necessary to replace them, unless there is damage.
Four Rings Auto hi mate I have just done my chain and I’m getting a oil pressure warning coming on now could you give me any advice? Ie do I need to bleed anything also the timing was checked a few times after hand turned the engine and I had a metal knock sound but only happened once shut the car off but still in time🤷🏼♂️ any help would be great 👍
@@lammindrives2763 yeah I forgot to plug in a sensor 🤦🏻♂️ had the car for two years only other thing I did was refurbished the turbo great little car traded it in about 4 months ago now
Did a similar job on my eos 14 tsi. How far after the install of the timing kit should the tensioner protude? Mine was over half the way out is this normal didnt get better after rotating either
10mm is roughly what I've been seeing. If u start off with more on a new chain, it'll take less wear and less time before it is noisy or jumps. What brand timing chain? Don't trust ebay kits.
hello friend easy repair when taking it out i think i know combined to the two work i watch most of yours video and i noticed all the repairs happened in around 158000 km range any idea or it could the maintenance range
That's probably a good observation to be honest. Most chains i seem to do would be between 120k and onwards, so 150 to 160k kms would sound right as to when they're required. Poor oil quality, from incorrect oils used or extended service intervals only reduce the kms travelled prior to this becoming an issue.
@@FourRingsAuto there is a problem i noticed and face it from korean cars german and french i bought and drive in last 20 years oil life and change intervals when to change the oil and its life and using engine flush its less in french cars coz the dealer want to use the flush every 30000 km so imagine
Hi, I have a different issue I am battling with. New timing kit, but if I turn the engine backwards the tensioner piston moves right back into the body, there is then enough slack to let the chain jump! On a forum someone told me tensioner was supposed to be a ratchet type that cannot do this, but I can't find one. Here is the issue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TZqgx4g1pmA.html As you can see, even with all new components, timing can slip. It's a destroyed engine waiting to happen. what has happened to VW that they can make something like this?
I thought there was a modified timing chain for these engines? The early ones used to stretch even if oils were correct grade and changed on regular basis. Did my BMY engine at 50k..no problem since (210bhp)
@@FourRingsAuto Okay. Mine doesn't rattle, but for 3 years I have been sort of worried. The engine still sounds the same and drives well, but it is a 1st gen BMY from nov. 2006, so it is prone to stretching the chain. I am about to change the oil to 5W/30 504.000. Should I use Castrols LL oil or VW's own brand of LL 3 oil? Thanks for your tips.
@@danielfl.9347 as long as vw 504 then either is fine. VW audi use castrol for their long life oil anyway. Just don't do the longlife service intervals. Maximum of 10,000km or 1 year.
@@FourRingsAuto Okay. I have driven 8.500 km, but 14 months, so I will change very soon. I have also been driving on the autobahn, so perhaps I should change even more often.
