That is a fantastic video. Great job with your explanations of the entire job. Now I just need to know where I can drop my 2008 Jeep Commander off to you so you can take care of my howling 8 1/4. :)
Appreciate the video! It was just what I was looking for and I've seen next to no info on rebuilding this model rear end until now. I'm dealing with a rear end whine that's been slowly getting louder over the past year or 2. It's the worst around 67-74mph. Below that it's not an issue and as you cruise closer to 80 it becomes more tolerable as well. I'm suspecting the pinion bearing. (2008 Grand Cherokee w/ the 3.0 CRD and QDII w/ ELSD - 290k miles currently) Noise also increases or diminishes with load, such as cruise set on highway as going slightly downhill vs flat or a slight ascent. *I think the noise is less while traveling slightly downhill / driveline load decreased. I'm curious why the ring & pinion were replaced as well, instead of bearings/races only? Assuming the pinion bearing and too low of preload remaining and doing the work to my own personal vehicle, do you think it may be possible to drop the center section and snug the pinion nut back into spec? Alternatively, if I replace all of the bearings / races while I have it apart (with quality OEM parts), how likely is it that I could simply re-use the original shims instead of going through a whole new setup procedure? I've rebuilt several engines / transmissions over the years, but I've never done a differential, aside from wheel bearings. ( '91 vo-tech grad with Associates Degree in Automotive Technology, how times have changed! )
I have found that when a bearing begins to fail it can cause a couple of issues. The first is the bearing will now not be riding on the same height of the race as when the gear set was set up new. This can cause the ring and pinion to wear unevenly due to the increased clearance of the pinion bearing. The bearing race material will also get ground into the gear set as well. The gear set can start to make noise after the bearings are replaced. The vehicle in the video shown is a vehicle under warranty. If I had not done both I would have not gotten paid if I had to do it again. Hopefully that helps.
I would have only changed out with new bearing sets and crush washer, and pinion nut ! I’m talking pinion bearings only. Simply would have degreased and blown out carrier bearings.
Thank you for the nice detailed video. I need to do this on our 2008 jeep liberty. Question: What do you call the tool you used to press on the out bearing onto the pinion ring (14.10 in the video time line). Thanks
Thank you for watching and for the great comments. The tool is called a flange installer. It is part #C-3718 from Miller Special Tools. Hope that helps.
00:50 clean filler plug bottom. Easy to see they never changed diff fluid ever in 130,000 miles. They were supposed to change that fluid every 15,000 miles. Their fault.
This is the best video! Thank you! One question, how do you set carrier bearings preload? You did mention that it’s done by adjusters, do you just tighten them to a specific torque value once you got the backlash set? What’s the process? Thank you very much!
Thank you, I appreciate the support. To get the bearing preload on the carrier side bearings after the backlash is set the adjuster rods are torqued starting from the right side then to the left to 75ftlbs. The caps will need to be completely torqued prior as well. Hope that answers your question.
Great Video sir! Any chance you are in North Carolina? I need you or someone with your knowledge that can do this job on my jeep commander, seems easy but I don't have the tools!
Quick question, what is the torque value for those 4 bolts on the driveline flange? Can't find it anywhere. Seems like it would high...70-80 ft pounds? Thanx
Factory specifications calls for 80 ftlbs on the rear axle flange for the driveline. I tend to use blue thread locker (medium) just to be safe. Hope that helps.
The tools are special factory tools from Chrysler. Unfortunately they don't come as a kit anymore. The part numbers are: puller 6444B, puller rods 6444B-4 (2), puller flange 6444B-1, plug SP-3289, and jaws 9641A. The web site to order them is www.moparessentialtools.com Snap-on runs the site now. Hope that helps.
@@Tech_1968 That's for D44 though, the 8.25 is 10-20, is it still safe to run that tight? asking because i'm in the middle of building a rear with locker and 4.57's and can't quite get it right.
So you are right. An open 8 1/4 has only 10 bolts. However as I explained in the beginning of the video this is a 8 1/4 that has a factory electric locker. The cover is a different shape than an open version. All exact diff designation from Jeep is C213RE. All the specifications are the same for the open version and the electric locking version.
@@Tech_1968 Thanks for the response. It was a good vid, my mind's eyes saw it first. I was taking a break from putting my '01 Dakota 8.25 together. I could've worded it a little better, I regret that. After doing a simple 8.25, I envy you the knowledge.
@@djinhelo Thank you, I really should fix the video title. I made it during the pandemic form my students so we could do remote lab for class and went a little quick with things.
Dude... You tend to TALK too much about what you're going to do and why FIVE and SIX steps ahead of where you're at in your video! Just focus on where you're at - at that moment in the video... All that babbling about future shit doesn't mean anything to the viewer, if they're not actually seeing it being done in the moment! You're welcome...
