Courtney, thanks for all the videos you do. Showing folks the tractors, skid steer’s, and implements, and what they can or can not do makes it so much easier for everyone watching in making decisions as to what we may want or not want to purchase for ourselves. From all the folks who watch and subscribe, thank you and we appreciate you! God bless!
Thanks Marty! I really appreciate that. The last three videos aren't being seen by a lot of people and sometimes it's easy to get frustrated and lose steam toward making the next video. But comments like yours help keep motivation high, so thank you!
@@GoodWorksTractors I do my best to watch and like all your videos. Just think about making the videos fun and interesting and the right crowds will come.
I have used a straight blade like this for years. IMO, it is one of the most versatile and underutilized attachments for any tractor. If I had to choose between a box blade or angle blade, I'd pick this one any day of the week.
For an open drainage ditch, I usually dig the first part with the loader (and tooth bar) leaving a squared off edge, then put the wheels on one side of the tractor in the ditch and use the loader for making the slope. This provides plenty of drainage, but you can still cross at right angles without dragging any implements. You end up with a very clean looking and uniform appearance also.
Nice swales! Best way to do it so you can mow the grass in them. The town I live in believes that the ditches should be deep so that any cars that go in them are severely damaged... Makes me shake my head when I drive by them.
I love my 6 foot offsetting rear blade on my 1025r. The best thing I use it for is as a rear wing when snow plowing. It keeps my wheels away from the ditch when snow blows in level and covers where the ditch begins. Really useful for pulling the gravel back up that was pushed over the edge in spring too.
I ordered my tractor with a box blade, and I love it. That said, I just bought a 5’ rear blade a little over a month ago, it it’s already been super handy. I see a lot of box blade/land plane/ rear blade comparison, but each is really its own tool and shines in a different area. I started a lawn renovation last fall and we got too much rain in Oct for me to finish it. After the snow melted, we of course got more rain. I was able to cut a small ditch using my rear blade down to the road and then run 3 branches off of it parallel to the road to empty the standing water I had. It worked like a charm. It of course rained again two days later, so I still have my work cut out for me. If I can have a week of dry weather, I should have it ready to seed soon. That’s asking a lot in MI, but I’m hoping for the best! 😂
Rear blades are very useful. I think not enough people have them. I think you can do a lot more with a rear blade than you can with a box blade. I think most people don't know how to properly use them and don't buy them. Also just like a box blade the top link is your friend. Nice video I always like seeing blades do work.
Great job with the ditching and your lucky to have almost rockless ground but I can offer a tip when using a blade to cut ditch lines. Always keep your blade pointed in the direction your traveling, that way if you catch a rock or root it is being crowed into the corner of you cut by the angle and it will peel them right out. Plus it keeps the force consistent in one direction
Fun seat time and a great job Courtney, it turned out nice 👍🏻. love my rear blade but it doesn’t have the tilt function like yours 🤷🏼♂️. Have a great week 🙂🙋🏼♂️👍🏻
look around for a "EQUIPCO" grader blade it will dig even water lines it has many selections 360 degrees rotation and both directions tilt. my great grandfather had one and I finally got it and the old 8n. I use the blade and attatchments with a 2019 3025e jd I dug ditches in beaumont clay 5 acres long with it both sides of driveway. put in a 2000 ft water line etc this year.
Looks pretty good Courtney. RU-vid some road grader videos for some ditching theory and general grading most are applicable to a back blade. I saw an old Wabco video that was good and if memory serves an Allis Chalmers as well.
I've gotten a heap of use out mine this year had to put a lot of drainage in due to the stupid amount of rain we've had 66" since the start of the year with 44" this month
I bought a hydraulic top link like you for my 4066 R . I have it hooked up to my 4th function valve on back of tractor. When in Float function the cylinder will not move freely. Does yours work properly?
Nice work, water will flow! I’ve not tried the ditch thing yet. Question: did you adjust the top link to pull the the top of the blade forward for a less aggressive cut?
Why not dig with the dirt going towards the road and raise that up instead of towards the other side? Looks good. Do you have those in stock? The one in the link doesn't match the one you are using. The one you have can angle and twist. The blades your link points to only angles.
We removed all top soil from the road bed before installing. Top soil has organic matter that breaks down over time, so we don’t want to mix it back in with the gravel. Plus it makes it muddy. 5’ Rear Blade is the only one that doesn’t tilt.
@@GoodWorksTractors I also think it is better to build up the road, but you have to do it first. The order I think works best is: 1 - remove organic matter 2 - cut ditches on each side of the road piling up on to road to make a crown. 3 - add gravel that packs well (IE crush run or recycled concrete) 4 - pack gravel 5 - add stone that grades well with land plane or similar If you want the ditch to be smooth on both sides then cut away from the road. Once you already have the road, the way you did it is the only option I can think of. Then as you said, add more gravel, but it takes more gravel in the end to do it that way. Tony’s tractor adventures has a good series recently doing it in the order I listed.
@@GoodWorksTractors Could you update your website with the pictures that show it where they can tilt and angle? That could be selling point if you don't have adjust one of the 3 point to get the angle.
I'd like to hear your opinions on the r14 tires after using them for a bit. I need new 13.6x28 tires on my Massey Ferguson 135 before too long, and am considering radials (instead of two bias ply). Side flex on hills is my big concern.
My eyes might be playing tricks on me but did you have some angle on the three point arm as well? My very limited experience tells me I need more experience with a rear blade to not just have fun making a mess!!
I'd say the rear blade is a jack of all trades, it's a master of none but if you're on a budget its better than a master of one Edit: I wrote this before you said you thought it was a jack of all trades so I guess we the same thoughts about it lol
GM. Why am I having such difficulty keeping the slope even? Water collection in certain spots. It didn’t matter how many times I went over those spots, the blade magically lifts up every time. 😩
