+Dirt Bike Channel I'm sure who ever buys it will be very happy. far too often you find bikes in the worst way and the seller's put a price on it as if it's New. both the bikes I purchased had to have extensive repairs shortly after because of stuff the failed to disclose (I too should of been more careful and I have learnt my lesson)
Or use a longer wrench, or start with your hand already beyond the sprocket. I cringed watching this, mainly because I've removed part of my knuckles in the past and it ain't nice!
Can't say enough good things about this channel.Great mix of informative,instructional and entertaining content.Has really helped me navigate all the pitfalls of being a newer,less experienced bike owner.really appreciated!
+Genesis Sports Nutrition Thanks for your support. Some days notes like this one are the only thing keeping me going. I certainly don't break even financially on this stuff, and that is to say nothing about my time.
You should do a video on repacking the exhaust. I think it's one of the most overlooked things. Especially on these two strokes that get really oily. It actually has a pretty large performance impact on the bike too.
just a friendly FYI. When removing rear sprocket if you loosen rear nuts first verses the Allen side(just use Allen to hold it still) it will be easier and less chance of stripping out the Allen side. Good vid!
+Tklatti01 These are Torx bolts, but I think it would the same from either side. Whether you are holding it from moving, or trying to turn it, the force is the same on that head... Just a thought.
It's significantly easier loosening the nut assuming you have the same length spanner/ratchet, sometimes I would have a spanner on the back and try to turn both at the same time
Really appreciate the narration over the video. SO much better than using a live mike while doing the work. I'm sure it takes you that much more time to edit but the difference between that most of what you see on youtube is amazing.
+Mark Lee Thanks for noticing Mark. In the case of this video, it made things easier since I didn't have to explain what I was doing while actually doing it.
I just put a Tsubaki chain on my KTM and i had to shorten it a bit.. It took me 3 hours to smash that link out D: Strongest chain/links i have ever seen..
You don't have to be an official mechanic to tackle projects like this. It feels really gratifying to be able to successfully pull off projects like this.
Hey I appreciate the encouragement! I definitely understand and welcome the feeling of accomplishment. Between this and my first tire change coming this weekend I’ll either be super pumped up or in a insane asylum. I did get one of the Moose tire changers so hope that aids a lot! Thanks again!
@@lukefish7562 The tire change is more of a challenge, but do-able also. If anything will put you in the asylum, it will be the tire change. Make sure and have true tire irons, more than 2 if possible. The biggest tip I could give you is that when you get to the final bit of tire to get over into the rim, pinch the tire together on the opposite end, forcing the beads together, and sinking the beads into the deepest well of the rim. That gives you the little bit of extra clearance to work the final bit of tire under the rim. And during this final stage, it's important to take "small bites" with the tire irons. Watch a few videos in preparation, and you'll be fine.
@@kings17court well dang I’m glad I “bumped” into you. I’m very hesitant with the tire as I’ve read the horror stories in the comments in the videos I’ve watched. It’s raining here all day tomorrow so I was hoping with no rush to ride I’ll be able to take my time and take breaks when frustrated. I sincerely appreciate the tips because I need all the help I can get. We shall see! Have a great weekend!
When you are taking the old chain out use the master link to connect it to the new chain and pull it through. It can save a little bit of time and effort
Hey Kyle, great video. I wanted to throw in a couple more tidbits. 1) recheck your chain tension after a while riding as it will stretch. not as much with an x ring as conventional but still worth a quick check. 2) There's a website a friend put me on called gearing commander which is a great resource if your not quite certain of what sprocket combination you need. it's very useful as you can apply different combinations and check estimated RPM in certain gears at certain speeds and vice versa. it is machine specific. Thanks.
+desertghost Ya, I also always just sit on my bike after tightening the chain. I'll even jump on it to get some travel in and make sure it doesn't tighten up.
Love your vids Kyle thanks for the content. Dying to hear about this new 250XC TPI. One thing I noticed on the sprocket change I suggest loosening the nut on the bottom of the sprocket while holding the torx bit stationary instead of holding the nut on the bottom stationary and trying to loosen the torx bolt from up top(hoping that made sense). Just my two cents. Lot less force required to loosen the nut from the bottom in my experience.
Good job with some helpful tips. And, vice-grips or channellocks and a set of pliers works, but you're right - a low cost tool that makes it easier is nice.
Use a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer to remove the master link. Press up up to the open end give it a tap and it usually comes off unharmed, it works well to put new ones on as well. And if you dont have the the press tool, a large pair of channel locks and a small socket work to press the face plate onto the link.
Nice video but top tip is for you to turn those spacer bolts around to shorten the wheelbase of the bike. Why do this - by shortening the wheelbase or moving the axle bolt forward your bike will turn better in the tight stuff. You'd have to remove a chain link but that's simple with a chain breaker tool. Keep riding and smiling
+Dirt Bike Channel have been following for a few months .love your video's its so clean and professional .you deserve alot more subscribers.. Keep up the good work ..i have a cr125 ...😉👍👊
Do you think it's ok to remove it and putting the same one back on? I recently got a dolly type carrier, which has my front tire off the ground but back tire on the ground. I've read it would be good to take the chain off before towing it. Thoughts?
I just bought all the same stuff as you for my YZ250. I have 2 questions though because I couldn't believe how heavy the steel sprockets and chain are. They are all primary drive steel units with the same gold chain as you. Question 1: Am I going to have any fitment issues with the new chain being that it is wider than stock due to the O-rings. Question 2: Am I going to regret putting these new parts on, considering how heavy they feel?? I haven't taken the OEM parts off to weigh them but I can't believe they are going to be as heavy as the new parts. Thanks!!!
thanks for that however you dont say where the chain tension adjuster is set at before you can work out the length to have your chain at? much appreciated if.you could help me. thank you
hey Kyle love your channel really helpful and I have a question I got a cr250 2 stroke and I was wondering what do u think would be a good measurement on chain slack?
Just an idea, but if you did a video on what the different sprocket sizes and ratios do to your bikes gearing and performance that would be awesome. Its kind of a confusing topic. If you could brake it down for us that would be cool.
Just think about a mountain bike and you're pretty much there.. bigger front sprocket gives more speed but harder to accelerate, smaller front sprocket gives less top speed but better acceleration. Bigger rear sprocket gives more acceleration and less speed, smaller rear sprocket gives more speed but less acceleration. Front sprockets are usually cheaper and easier to change so people will often change that by 1 tooth as a starting point and then consider changing the rear if you need to change further.
You should try one of those "supersprox" rear sprockets, theyre aluminium centre with steel teeth. They last so much longer than those standard ktm ones in my experience
Should there be any type of play on the front sprocket? I just bought a 2015 200XC-w and had to replace the countershaft seal in it. . The seal kit came with a thicker Snap ring than the factory one and I haven't installed it yet. It seems like there is to much play and the seal is still leaking. Thanks
Is there a certain amount of links that should be used for each bike? I have a new chain that is 118 links and too long on my 2015 350 XCF..Should I make it 117? 116?.Is there a spec from KTM?
+Solar XSniper You need to look at the teeth on the sprocket. When the shape of those teeth start to change, it's time for a new chain/sprocket. You can also look at the o rings on the chain. If they look worn or broken, then It would be a good time to replace.
+Dirt Bike Channel okay, thanks I'll keep that in mind when looking at it. Every time I lube my chain I look at the chain and how tight it is to make sure it's not to loose
It sure looked like you used the chain press the wrong way, and that is probably why the chain felt stiff because you pressed on the links Damaging them and the rings. Thanks for the video.
hey was just after a bit of advice. i followed ur vidio step by step but when i installed my new front sprocket it had a some lateral movement in it now. also it is clicking now. have you any advice on how to cure this. thankyou
Kyle, i just bought EXC500 2016 and its seems to me that 14/48 stock sprocket set isn't good for tight trials and deep sand! Can I go to 13/52 to improve and reduce wear on my clutch ?love your channel
+BikeFreekShow If have a 16 500 exc the stock gearing should be 15/45. 14/48 is what im running for open desert and two track and it seems great. Id be cautious about running to short of gearing as the 500 exc has so much power that you want a bit longer gearing or you will be digging trenches up everything you want to climb. That's part of the 2-stroke desire, you can put the power down a lot easier and with a lighter package.
+Fluxx43 thnx... It's really 15/45 and its have no lower toque on deep sand and speed is to crazy for any track ... It's a 4 stroke . I'm considering 14/52 for deep sand and dirt climbs .
you would do easier when you turn the nut instead of the screw when loosing the rearsproket. Same when tighten them up. Thats why the have this cone on the screw-head.
If road racing, you will not pass tech inspection unless it’s riveted. I’m assuming it’s a safety thing due to high speed. Never really asked in the 5 yrs I road raced, just riveted my links and never had a failure. I ran 520 chain and sprockets as well to shed drive weight. I will say that it was not abnormal to go 180 mph on a road course, but only on rare occasion I hit 80 on my 300.
My local KTM shop said WD-40 is suitable for cheap chain lube, depending on which chain link is in your chain (forget which one he said would work with wd40). What are your guys' opinion? This shop mechanic also races and does desert tracks often and says it's what he uses and has no issues. Thoughts?
+Dirt Bike Channel There was some video about it where they tested it and they said its good for a primer, not lube. It doesnt hurt the o-rings like many people think
+NukaMoto My guy also mentioned WD-40 doesn't have a lot of fling. But you may be right about it only being useful for a primer. Common sense might suggest WD-40 would be more popular in the moto world if it really did the job as needed.
The film it leaves behind is minimal so it's generally not recommended, although with O and X ring chains the need for top quality lube is reduced as it is lubed internally. The rollers pretty much stay stationary once on the sprocket which most people don't understand, the lube helps reduce some wear at the point where the roller engages with the first tooth and also prevents rust. The most important thing is keeping the chain clean because dirt on the outside of the rollers is like a grinding paste on the sprockets and rollers which is the primary cause of wear. Also, chains don't stretch, the rollers wear internally which increases the internal diameter which makes the chain become longer when under tension. You want to find a lube that dirt doesn't stick to but is also still present once you have finished a typical ride. Personally I think WD40 is more suited to cleaning the chain but if you change your chain super regularly then you don't need to worry about wear rates anyway.
I ride KX500 in the desert. I dont use chain lube. I use o ring chains and twin ring rear sprocket. I have found lube only attracts dirt and makes a grinding paste that makes chains and sprockets wear faster. Been doing this for 35 years. Chains and sprockets last 100 hrs on the open class machine.
because you couldn't have a large 50t sprocket on the front, there's not enough room. Remember there are gears adjusting the ratio inside the gearbox so it's not the same as a mountain bike which only has a front and rear sprocket.
I'm trying to change the sprocket and chain but I don't have the right tools does anyone know what tool I need ? I have this cover on my front small sprocket that I can't get off
Hey what would be the best chain for trail riding. Non oring, oring, or xring. I have a worn out non oring right now but need to get new sprockets and chain soon. Thanks
What is your experience with Primary Drive chains? I've read a few reviews about some people having the rollers snap and break, and other reviews about it working fine for long miles. I'm looking for a new chain for my KTM because I just picked up 17" supermoto wheels yesterday.
You can tell that this video is so sponsored. Hes like "i use the (brandname) tool for like every job he does. When you can do it with just normal tools yourself
Great job and I appreciate the information. If I may recommend one change... Please try to keep your videos to 7 minutes or less. Check out Casey Neistat's RU-vid channel. He is big on the 7 minute videos.
What an absolutely retarded product name for a FINAL drive chain! A "primary drive" chain is like on Harley and Norton and many others the chain between the crank and clutch transmission ....ignorant name How about calling a line of tires "knobby tires" but they are street tires...that is how stupid "primary drive" is for a product name for a FINAL drive chain....someone probably already had that name so they just took advantage of something that sounds cool to the ignorant masses that know nothing about motorcycles in general....only one little segment
