I’ve been looking at a ton of Harley transmission videos. This is the best by far. I’m just a weekend mechanic and material this good is invaluable. Great work!
I bought this video set of 5 VHS tape about 13 years ago. They cover anything from Shovehead to Evolution total tear down from crank up, and transmission 4 and 5 speed. Great videos. I also bought a CD called "Chopper Assembly Videos" (evo softail), another great video. Did the assembly 12 years ago using these videos and never had a problem with my bike, 30,000 thousand miles later.
Any thoughts on the easiest way to get the main shaft disassembled so I can drive it slightly through the transmission to get room to remove a 'walked' IPB race?
Very good and clear video....except that you have to put up with incorrect nomenclature here and there. Example...Not even 2 and a half minutes in he is calling the shift drum pillow blocks pillar blocks. He does it several times in the same paragraph, so it is not just a one off slip of the tongue. At 11:40 he calls the Nylox nuts Nylex several times. This slick voiced radio DJ style narrator does not know about what he is reading, obviously. Very good video otherwise.
@@garymoody7249 loosen the main shaft nut on the trap door side. Then take a soft hammer/dead blow. Strike it toward the primary side a little to give you enough clearance to pull the output race
@@campsite21 Thanks. Good pointer. BTW, I had a mechanic buddy who tack welded a piece on the race and pulled it right off. Then we put on a Baker primary bearing. Perfect so far with about 500+ miles on it.... :)
@@garymoody7249 the method I outlined above, would warrant to replace the trap door bearings. Once you put pressure on the inner portion of the bearing by striking the main shaft toward the primary side. Renders the bearing useless. Might as well rebuild while there if it has higher milage. Easypeazey
Invaluable, I just pulled primaries to replace shift shaft lever and found that the male spline on the end of the shift pawl shaft are woen off. Thank you!
This is one of the best and most detailed videos. I have a RSD 6 speed and needed to adjust the shifter pawl. This was detailed and left nothing for the imagination. Thank you!
Thanks for this step by step detailed instructions. The best video I've found. It has enabled me to rebuild my transmission. I wouldn't have stood a chance using the workshop manual or the Haines book of lies.
Thank you very much for the info , so valuable ! This reminds me of the days gone by when people would help you not thinking of money first, we should be here to help each other.
☆VERY IMPORTANT☆ 51:00 PER THE MANUAL, ENSURE THAT YOUR TRANSMISSION IS ENGAGED INTO 3RD GEAR PRIOR TO ADJUSTING THE SHIFT PAWL ON THE DRUM!!! (NO MENTIONED IN THIS VIDEO). ADDITIONALLY, DO NOT BEAT ON ANYTHING WITH A HAMMER AND WOOD, ALWAYS EMPLOY PROPER PRESSING TECHNIQUES VIA ALL THREAD MATERIAL AND PLATES.
@luckyPiston it's critical for accurate shifting because it's in the middle of the gear cluster. If you had a 12 speed you'd want to do this in 6th gear. Hypothetical scenario but it's essential for even shifting through your gearset
My gears won't select 4th or 5th gears,I have the top cover off and the shifter pawl disconnected but when I turn the selector by hand it won't turn past 3rd gear,this is after replacing the inner primary bearing which jammed up as I was riding the bikes and the mainshaft seized up,I can't see any damaged gears inside the gearbox,any suggestions what might be wrong, bent shaft maybe?
Good video but no video substitutes for your FACTORY service manual AND FACTORY PARTS CATALOG whose exploded views help understand the task (and of course help order parts online which is easy as searching the part number). Have the books open while watching the video if you've not done one of these before. You'll thank me later.
they left out the counter shaft closed needle bearing install into the transmission case. Is it Press in when the case is hot or room temp . 17:22- 21:18
@@kennethwise7108 I left my case in the bike pulled the shafts gears out , used a 1 inch socket and small 40 oz ball peen hammer with a 12 inch extension to drive it out . I have bearing race seal installation tools I tapped it back in till it was flush with the case . no heat just cold bearing did mine when it was 20 F outside the shop was 70 F inside , I set the bearing in my freezer for 30 minutes . I watched a few videos they pressed it in with a shop press had the case out .
@@kennethwise7108 watch grim press it in . You do not need a press have to have a good flat surface to drive it in tapping it little at a time . bearing race tool worked great . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Iimz96T4c-c.html
@@JCcanU yeah you're fortunate, my case is still in the bike. I'm gonna do my best to install it without having to beat on it. My bike has 140,000 miles on it and I'm basically replacing all of the bearings and upgrading the shift drum and pawl to a Baker one. They make some nice stuff, expensive as all hell but REALLY good quality stuff.
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They need to take out that annoying guitar sound between every two minutes it's very annoying so annoying that I'm going to turn it off I don't even want to watch it