I'm not sure, but I think the design of baffles is only there to provide more heat surface in order to completely vaporize the liquid propane before it enters the primary regulator. Liquid entering the vaporizer is controlled by the primary regulator. 3 PSI in the vaporizer section will exert enough pressure on the primary diaphragm, through those two holes, to close the primary seat and stop liquid propane flow into the vaporizer. As engine vacuum lowers pressure under the secondary diaphragm, the secondary diaphragm pushes down on the secondary lever, opening the secondary seat and allowing propane vapor to flow through to the carburetor. This flow causes a drop in the primary pressure, which allows more liquid propane to enter the vaporizer.
:D:D:D Interesting tear-down, I can now see why the L series IMPCO converter is so reliable. The cracks in the body are probably casting flash lines rather than cracks. for $240 the new one was a bargain; it would probably be around $150+ for the rebuild kit alone-so not worth a diy rebuild anyway.
My converter is 20+ years old and it sprung a leak between the bottom plate and the main housing I can get a rebuild kit for $122.50+ and am capable of the job My question is - where did you get a new one for $240? I'm getting quotes for $415 for one Can you help me out? Much appreciated PS I'm in south east Melbourne
I am rebuilding one of these right now along with its brother and man it was nasty inside, looked just like yours,forklift wasn't running worth a crap, not fractured or nothing, just dirty, i cleaned that area where the water and gas go thru squeaky clean and just waiting for a rebuild kit.
I'm curious if this converter would work on a Vanguard generator? I have a problem with the 300 pound tank freezing in cold weather was thinking of changing it to lpg instead of vapor off the tank and using engine oil to heat the vaporizer whats your thoughts? I'm perfectly capable of hooking up safety switches just not sure if hot low pressure hot oil would hurt the diaphragm at all. I'd imagine oil would be less harmful than coolant🤔
thanks for video I have question mi forklift regulator is frozen every 15 minutes and the forklift shut down after desfrozen forklift run again justo do this just when is cold once when the forklift warm up running good all day now I can running only 15 minutes thanks
My guess for the residue is rubber / neoprene from the deteriorating vaporizing chamber gasket. Over time this residue could find its way through the low pressure seat. Propane can produce a tan greasy looking substance, but nothing that looks like what is shown here. If the system is lacking a fuel filter, it could also be sediment from rubber interior of fuel lines. All systems need a lock off and filter. The lock off is for obvious safety reasons. The filter is needed to protect the system from harmful sediments. A VFF30 incorporates both of these features in one item. An electronic solenoid lock off requires the use of an inline filter.
Nice tear down my friend, my F truck running a 351 windsor backfired this morning and now it wont start. The gas outlet from the reducer to the mixer has very little gas coming from it. Not too sure of the reducers age but it looks to be very old. It has LPG on the body of the reducer and the words Model N-L NO BRAND NAME ... do you think the backfire may have buggered the diaphram ..there is also a choke type cable attached to the mixer, dunno what that is for either.. cheers
I have one with S/N 590731 are they comparable? I have problems with a piece of farm equipment running then dying every couple hours. Have to let it sit.
check your pcv system filter and valve that is oil mist very common for cars with high mileage and the nature of lpg systems is low pressure so the mist will condense in the lowest point in the system and be drawn into places it is not supposed to go oil and rubber do not get along very well leading to failure of the original and replaced parts in the system if the original cause is not fixed
I've gos gas on a 97 food courier, for some reason it won't run on gas up say 40ks an hour. Any ideas? They look like casting cracks to me. I think it would have been the seals.
My car is not starting Noether no gas nor petrol but when I disconnect petrol solenoid from mpfi switch and direct ly connect to petrol it start switch has been changed but problem exist plz help
On the model L vaporizer... what I don't get... why the cover for the water passage - in the video from minute 15:25 - has that "maze" casted in it?! Does anyone know why? From seeing it and the gasket... it could have been a plain cover and work just as good - or am I missing something? The gasket on mine was blown... which lead to debris starting to collect on the cover... pic here: up.picr.de/29171403xg.jpg Regards from Germany - Jonas
it is so simple to stop wasting money on new kits and save gas you need to put something that will only allow the arm membrane to open just a little then just adjust the minimum screw till your car idle ( now it will idle like a brand new car ) your car does not need no extra gas as it gains speed, the opening and closing of the membrane is not necessary in the minimum idle screw is where you will put some sort of metal stick that will only allow the arm to just verily open for the engine to star then you control the screw that is in the middle of the tube till your engine idle at is best then take a drive and look all your troubles are gone this trick will save you lots of gas money maintenance and car trouble if your car is one of those old cars that never seen to idle right ,now it will idle like a brand new car you wont believe it if everything i told you comes out to be true i beg of you to help me get a new car by contacting me and donating some money im a taxi driver with and old toyota that was driving me crazy with the gas and i try everything on you tube and google to no help
