you could pour concrete also around the container outside, going up higher that the concrete level in the inside. That would stabilize the bottom part of the walls.
People laugh, but Flex Seal works great. First thing I thought of when I saw this. Flex Seal is already expensive, and still a well kept secret... it will get real spendy once people realize how good it is.
Discovered my swamp cooler had rusted through in one spot of the pan, dried it out applied tape, it leaked ever so slightly since I apparently didn't get t completely dry. Applied a milk jug full of water as a weight(wasn't about to turn off the swamp cooler in a heat wave) and it did seal after a day or so.
When flexseal came out I thought about using that on an A/C pan I had that was cracked. Was either that or remove the whole thing to remove the pan from what I assessed. Got rid of that place before summer instead.@@TheLoiteringKid
Amazing job. This turned out so great, you should be proud of this project (I'm sure you are!). When I saw the pup at the start, I thought maybe it would be a good suggestion to put in a safety platform for the dog to be able to get out incase he/she falls in when you're not looking.
I would suggest welding rebar 2 inches off the floor all along the walls go across the span every 4 feet with rebar and pour another 4 inches of concrete
Great video got to hand it to you to take on the undertaking and work out the bugs nobody's first piano is perfect but if anyone decides to take on this project they will have your build to benefit from✌️
A bond breaker at the corner (concrete to steel) would be good…so that all the flex (strain) can get spread out over say 2-3 cm instead of right at the 2-3 mm of movement…cool pool idea. I’m inspired! (Also, love the wood videos lol😂)
Greetings from Denmark. Love your project and I'm going the same. I think I'll add concrete to the walls to avoid the creaking between metal walls and the concrete floor. Hope everything is working well for you this summer.
If i were you I'd would have used the tanking paste everywhere. Then paint over it... Also can you get CT1 or OB1 ( I think ) they are excellent in both sealing and bonding.... Excellent build though great effort and lot's of enjoyment I hope...
Love what you have done. I’m stealing all your designs as I want a full depth container pool and I live in Ontario so both costs and winter suck. One question about your build, why not use a pond liner? You’ve structurally solidified the container, which has been the thing I’ve been stuck on for a while, but it seems to me that a pond liner would sort your leak issues. Again I really like what you have done and am grateful that you posted it.
I am curious why you didnt just use a pond liner on the bottom siliconed to the sides and save all the cost of concrete and then having to seal it all. Pond liner attached a few inches up the sides would allow any flexing to not be a problem, and it would have been away cheaper. Can you share your thoughts on this please?
The bottom of the container was in bad shape, metal hooks and all sorts of stuff, that 3'' of concrete would cover up. Yes looking back, maybe a piece of pond liner under the concrete and up the side a bit, but then attaching it to the side? Also at the time was during covid, pond liners and pool liners were way up in price or not available.
Why wouldn’t you just weld in some steel for the floor? Also 2 boxed beams on either side running the length of the pool would keep the sides in shape without the shallow end.
Concrete was around $400 bucks, steel + time = much more expensive. I don't think the boxed beams would stay straight if running the 40' length. The top of the container is already built with a boxed beam, that bent and broke from the original owner filling with water.
could you bolt or weld a piece of angle iron the whole length on both sides, then weld some rebar from angle iron to angle iron. then pour another shallow layer of concrete which will connect it all together?
I left them so I would get 1 million comments about removing them (-: I just had so much other stuff to do that I did not get to them, they are pretty round and are kinda nice to pull your self along when in a floaty and beer in hand. I think I will remove this season.
@@CanadianWoodworks it is HDPE, but it is properly UV stabilizer (as natural HDPE is not) and has an anti-skid surface (commonly used in pools and grating). That’s all, that HDPE should be cracking any day now if it isn’t
@@CanadianWoodworks Maybe if you want to keep them purchase some t-post or rebar caps and paint them if you can't find the color you like. Those could do some serious damage. As a kid we made ramps out of old plywood for skating, bikes, etc and we didn't notice a nail that we had missed and I fell on the ramp and fell on the nail then slid down the ramp. It left a deep gash in my outer thigh. Just don't want anyone getting hurt. Thanks for the vids and good job!
Looks great! If you did it again, would you just use the liquid rubber product with their mesh? Can it be painted over? Do you use a skimmer and suction from the bottom somewhere for the filtration system? Thanks!
Thought about that, and the answer is maybe. Would be nice to be able to spray it, I think it would work as the full coating. I would want to tint it instead of blue. Fortunately we get almost nothing on the surface of the water, at first I had a skimmer but removed it. I have 4 jets on one end as water into the pool and 2 on the other end as returns.
Did you have the solar cover custom made? Curious how you got a solar cover with those dimensions (I have a square pool and everything I've found is either round, rectangular or oval)
Spray foam cement... I saw someone use it in a hot tub build. If you used it where the sides meet the bottom, then use your pool seal. It may be enough. Enjoy the season of swimming.
Your exactly right, under the concrete was plywood and all sorts of hooks and metal stuff, really bad shape so I did not consider doing something before concrete, but ya might have worked better.
You could, but I choose not to. One reason was this was durning Covid and wait time was over a year for a custom liner. Also I thought it would be an issue to secure the shallow middle for strength with a liner.
@@CanadianWoodworks yeah google its realy simpel solution that wont cost you mutch if done richt i breed shrimps my self and this works extreemly wel no alge etc
I'd say it wasn't a waste of time. The first year was an experiment to see if his idea would work. The second year he learned from his first year and fixed the shortcomings. I'd watch his videos and call them educational. He showed us what he tried and didn't work, then tried something new the next year that did work. Now he is swimming in a leak free swimming pool and having a great tim. I'd call that a hit and a success.❤ I will agree with you on one point though.... those nubs poking up along the roof is the sea container. I'd definitely recommend removing them. To me they do look like a hazard.
I hope you don't let kids swim in there unattended. That "shallow end" is an absolute death trap. Can you imagine how tempting it would be to try and swim under the platform... and running out of air half way?
No offense man but what a waste of money and energy. That center platform can’t be up to code, I would be terrified someone would get stuck and drown. I would have just paid the money to do a pool properly.
This is a one of those things that seems like itll work out on paper but is a stupid idea in reality I could think of a handful of better ways to make a pool.
