I’m just an old lady but here’s what I would have done: weld it all shut and cut your pipe fittings out and your skimmer intake hole. dig it out and drop it in the ground. Sandblasting it first. Then close cell insulation spray it, and maybe shoot a fiberglass layer over that. Then order a liner. No leaks and you have a solid base, backhoe it to level and the soil will hold it, you won’t have to worry it will break
Your deck can be what ever level you want it to be, and an apron around the the pool a little higher than the deck with the ground supporting the sides maintains the whole 40' as a lap pool. That thing in the middle deletes the purpose of a 40' pool. It's now two separate sections divided by a shallow spot. The video is still useful so thanks for posting it. I would go with the plan above.
ive been saying this for years..why dont more people do like this. I made my dad one 10 year ago, and the total cost was around 4000 dollars... And that was with great pumps, filters and heating. Didnt do any digging, but cheapest big ass pool ive heard of.. It can even be a downstream pool with the pumps so that was a plus.
I was a pool guy, when you paint next time do dark blue or do dark blue tile line. With that light blue color it makes your pool water look green, dark blue makes your pool look crystal clear that’s why they have fake tile lines on even liner pools
About to do one my self. Bought 2 and going to put them together (I'm a welder/fabricator) . Was hoping you could do another video showing all the leaks, flexing and bottom seam and bond between concrete and metal walls.
Having had several steel above ground pools, would it not have been more practical to have support struts/legs on the outside to bare the weight giving full space for swimming?
Maybe.....maybe not. I do like the center shallow "end" and with it full swimming over it is no issue, and going under it is fun. In my head it made send to me that both sides want to push out, so connecting the 2 would counter them selves.
Big props for taking on the task. It may be too late at this point but you could've bolstered the container with 45 degree supports connected to a long horizontal bar on the outside. This would also allow you to have that shallow platform on one end of the pool with the underneath restricted by a net. As it stands now, maybe you could add a tight rope from end to end under the center of the shallow platform? Someone can just pull their self if they get disoriented. Also, you stated that you're getting some small leaks. Are they from the holes you drilled for the bolts? I didn't see any type of rubber seal between the wall and the angle iron.
Hi Paul, having the shallow end just 12' wide, swimming under it is not an issue. Of course with young kids we make sure to monitor them and make sure they know the risks. I just siliconed the bolts and made large hardwood washers on the outside between the steel plate and container, zero leaks from the bolt holes.
Pretty cool. I think I would do bolted metal in the center and then pour concrete 3 to 4 feet tall making a ramp. Of course a dirt mound in the center and did it as one concrete pour
No radiant floor tubing built into the cement? You could add some Evacuated Solar Tubes panels and you would have a nice little setup to warm it up. You can still heat it with the tubing by mounting them on the side or bottom in panels.
In hindsight, that would have been pretty smart to have pex tubing inside the concrete, my shop is heated that way. Not much cost to add either, even if I never use it. Darn
Great to see a video from you again. Miss the videos of your shop and the work going on. Pool is very interesting concept have not seen it before. Good luck and I hope all is well in the northlands.
Why not just reinforce the outside if you want to prevent the middle of the container from bowing outward? Having that shallow part in the middle seems like more trouble than its worth.
Im a year later here and still watching, but i wanted to ask if you couldve braced the sides from the outside. Again, still watching so im sure you got the job done.
For sure bracing could be done from the outside, but it would have to be pretty beefy and "engineered" well. My method super simple I think in comparison.
water is going to get into the bottom of those pipes @12:00; you didn’t weld the underside seam and the water pressure has 100% worked its way into those horizontal pipes
The bolts went through where the steel had about a 2'' gap on the outside to the steep plate, I made hard maple "washers" which were lust thicker then the gap, applied silicone and once bolted tight they were held very tight against the skin of the container. This is one part i've had zero leaks or any issues.
Id say I ave about 12k Canadian dollars invested, the container was $4500 + $600 to move it. Steel, Pool paint, concrete and of course the pool components. Lot's of time also!
i love this video! im a bit confused at why you put the shalow bit in the middle as i dont think you would be able to swim laps of the pool. i think it would be cool to add in a system to move it up and down. i just hope the container dosent collape!
I can confirm swimming laps is no issues with the shallow end height, reason it needed to be there was to hold the container from bowing at the center because of the weight of the water.
Fantastic job on the pool. Just wondering how much something like this would cost compared to a traditional purchased pool. Also, why didn't you grind those nubbins sticking up on the sides from the tarp room system of the shipping container?
I have about $12,000 invested which includes everything! I always planned to clad the top with wood, but spent my time chasing leaks. Now with leaks fixed, I think I will just cut off at the end of the season.
I don't not agree, and ya I learned I should have taken them off during the winter when I could walk on the water, would have been so easy. Next winter!
You seem to be a skilled welder. I would think it'd be better to weld the steel structure through holes to the outside plate, and then along all the edges. For less likely to have leaks around your bolts as silicone only lasts so long. Also without welding angle irons below your shelf to support the weight everything is on sheer on your bolts. Every time people walk around on it it's slowly wiggling those bolts.
so far zero leaking from the bolts, considering how many 1/2'' bolts I used I'd think its enough sheer strength, but ya I guess it could be inducing some movement into the bolts. I have them exposed on the outsides of the container, to keep an eye out for any leaking.
Nice welds.had to take a while with the hole drilling.on every rib.then on angles iron and outer steel plate.seems a little over kill .unless standing alone or being mobil.if you put it in ground,pack soil after piping installed I don't see it bulging.i like the engineering thought of shallow end in middle.unique idea as well.seems like it would be fun to swim in.all those holes drilled seem like a lot of leak spots.anxious to know if it leaks at all and what you will do to seal the holes..
So far zero leaks at all the shallow end bolts holes, we siliconed and made big wood washer / spacers which are on the outside and seem to really work well. Overkill perhaps, but I'd rather not fins out. I did't burry at first because of making sure no leaks, so it was needed. Swimming under the platform is fun for sure!
Since it's going to be under a deck anyway, why don't you just support it with footers underneath? You won't be able to see it. Put concrete footers with steel beams on a slant holding the center walls square?
Hi, Thanks for watching, right around 12k Canadian. Container was around $4000 and $2500 for the pool equipment. Then all the other stuff, concrete, stone under container, epoxy pool paint, steel and bits and bobs.
Amazing! Great work. I’m in Ottawa and wanting to fabricate one (20’) this winter to drop in the hole next spring. Would love to have a chat with you if you can spare 15 mins. Cheers!
I want to put one next to my future container house, but i couldn't find a detailed video until now. Can you go over a cost breakdown of materials, so i can get a general idea. Thanks for this video.
What would be the cheapest option if you were to put the seacan in ground, could you get away with just doing pool epoxy no concrete, or would it be cheaper to run a liner,
Yes perhaps cheaper to do a liner, when I started the build it was during Covid and there was like a 1 year+ wait time for a liner. I also wanted to keep the feel and look of a container on the inside.
Ya i'm dumb, I did use a 2 part epoxy to fill that gap but I did get a touch of rust showing through, in the end I did end up welding the underside joint also.
Awesome work. Thanks so much for sharing. I’ve built a container pool and I have just had the wall bow on me after I filled it. Love your solution but may try an overhead brace rather than a shallower middle. However, I would like to know what epoxy pool paint you used? I used Semco liquid membrane but not terribly happy with it. Any help would be appreciated Well done
I used Ramuc Pool Paint Type EP Epoxy, for sure happy with it. I did not want to brace from over head. Very happy with the shallow end, can stand nicely for kids and still swim over it with out any issues.
Looks good! Just some learned info on drilling metal - maybe it just makes me feel better but a little lubricant even WD40 tends to save drill bits a touch. I think 😂😂😂
I did't not like the idea of 1/4'' thick material being welded to the very thin material of the container which is about 14ga. Also figured it would be easier to change if I needed to. So far the bolting has had zero issues in regards to leaking or strength.
I don't understand why you used the shipping container at all. Why didn't you just buy a pool liner and make a regular pool? It would seem to be the more practical option and less inclined to failure. (No joints to leak)
Ya I caught that one, I did a bit of welding upside down testing then went back and welded that part. It was easy, should have just done it at that time.
6:32 no wonder you burnt through so many bits… you’re drilling metal you can put all your weight behind the drill and push as hard as you possibly can. It’s not wood, it takes a while. Just apply a little bit of pressure, it takes a long time… it’s not wood!
If metal.cant be in concrete then WTF is reinforced concrete?? All slabs are laid with metal Rio mesh to hold the concrete together.. Do educate yourself big shot 😅
I'm about to start on mine right now. Jk, but this is an awesome fucking build. Use some lube or even water if you have to to keep your drill bits cool. They will last longer. There is a literal night and day difference between a Milwaukee and a DeWalt drill. Put one in each hand and see which does better. I promise you'll throw that DeWalt away.