Looks like you really know all the risks and preventive action: fuse, cable cover, xt60 connector, large size cables, and some measurements using multimeter.. This is really worth diy to try. Thanks for sharing...
Thanks Kim for the great video! I have an non working hf viking 450 amp booster. Batteries are at full power and will charge. Unit will not turn on. If I build a diy from this what bms controller would I use? Thanks, mn mike
@@HBPowerwall I've got a bunch of INR 18650-13Q, according to the Samsung official specs they can output 15A maximum, I take it if I paralleled enough of these they are more up to the job? They came from unused cordless drill batteries and are all giving the same amount of mah when tested (~1350 mah) so are in good balance. I've seen your channel and plenty of the videos on it but not checked if you ever built a booster pack from 18650s, I should go have a look 👍
Hi @Kim Tinal, I built the same battery 3s x 3p means 3 in series and 3 in parallel with same BMS of 20 amp but car didn't started then I built a little larger 3s x 7p with same BMS (20 amp) but car didn't started then I built a littler more larger 3s x 10p with same BMS (20 amp) and car didn't started I increased the parallel batteries to increase the amperes but it didn't worked. Now I built a new battery 3s x 30p with 25amps BMS and again car didn't started I used the battery with 1KVA inverter / UPS and it worked well. As I have gone through the comments so I found there that you have connected your battery pack directly. So do you think the hurdle is BMS ? If I directly connected the battery pack (without BMS) it will start the car ?
sorry for late reply, you may use 4S for your type of battery, it would be drop the battery voltage to much for you starter to crank. and make sure that output from you battery to the engine starter must be direct, bms is used for charging only.
@@kimtinal9353 thanks for your reply. I am getting ur point for using 4s because when I used 3s(12v) the voltage drops to 11v after first crank but car didn't started normally we have 12v battery if I will use 4s which produces 16v it can damage car electrical components. What do you say about this?
@@yjtechnical4700 when you connect to low car battery the voltage will not stay 16v...the moment you connect 16v ...the car battery will drain the booster and the voltage will drop instantly....you can use 100A BMS ...the white ones....same price.
Nice work but 12v is not enough to start dead battery on a car, you need minimum of 13v and 14v is sure to start but not 12v it just wont work because the car battery with that pack can never be raised above 11.8V and therefore it can't start
And that fuse needs to be what 150A? Bigger wires, no fuse but a clip set with the Schottky diods and one more cell set added with 4s bms. This would be perfect and outshine most store bought units.
Those cells are not very high drain. Also you have no reverse current protection (ie you have nothing protecting the cells from the 14.4v that the cars alternator will give the moment it starts, when you have it hooked upto 3 series connected 18650s, that totals out at 12.6v max). You are asking for a fire. A very large diode could protect it.
To protect the battery is very easy that you can use two starter relay separately on positive and negative one is for positive wire relay and other is for negative wire relay. Direct connect to the starter motor with the battery and disassembly the wire that connects to the voltage regulator. For charging battery in background connect bms
so you are starting a car from a battery that can output about 23 amps continuous? through a XT60 connector via what looks like 12 gauge wire? Also let me guess, that 60 amp fuse blew right as the engine started? lol. For about the same price you could build a 4s headway LiFePo4 pack which can output at least 200 amps.
I don't think so. one 32650 has same price but you must have 4 cell to make 4s. 1 32650 have 30A discharge current so if you want 200amps discharge current you need 24 pcs of 32650, if 1.5usd, you need 36usd. But in video, you just need nine of 18650.
continues current is not imporant in jumping. car drains ~100a while start but for very short time. if it is not fast blew fuse- it shuoldnt blew from starting car
Your process is good. But the specs are not workable. (cause I built this the same way you did minus the fuse and it failed) that fuse needs to be what 150A? Bigger wires, no fuse but a clip set with the Schottky diods (can get from Ali express for 3$) and one more cell set added with 4s bms. That made it work. This would be perfect and outshine most store bought units.
Car can not be started by just these cells. You need high discharge cureent cells or more cells in parallel to 4S. At 14.8v with many in parallel can boost engine to start.
i don't use high current BMS, the BMS that i use in this project is just 20A BMS. the BMS is used for charging the battery only. for jumpstart i connect the battery direct without BMS. the reason is about the BMS price. for V4 or V6 engine that velocity below 3.0L. the starter would consume current about 150A. if i use BMS that smaller then 150A, the bms will cut off. it i use bigger then 150A price is high and size too big. for jumpstart the engine it would draw high current at first second and it would not be long for starting engine. it would take about 3 to 5 seconds to start it. so in short period xt60 could handle the much current as well without any problem.
oh and about the fuse, because of i don't use bms to protect the output of the battery, that why is consider using fuse to protect it from accidently short circuit.
@@kimtinal9353 Hello, I am very interested in your Starter Power Bank, except that I am a starter battery for my motorcycle (1100 GSXR) that I want to make, but with LifePO4 in 4S https: //eu.nkon .nl / a123-systems-anr26650m1b-a-grade-3-3v-a-grade.html For the BMS I thought to take a 40A continuously, but which has a peak discharge current of + or - 120A I measured the current when the motorcycle was started it is 94 99A fr.aliexpress.com/item/33027173225.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.22bb1b769eTZKP&algo_pvid=8e9e853d-b8bf-42da-855f-db74dabe5b07&algo_expid=8e9e853d-b8bf-42da-855f-db74dabe5b07-3&btsid=0b0a187916015637613187139ec8d9&ws_ab_test= searchweb0_0, searchweb201602_, searchweb201603_ Do you think the 40A continuous BMS with a peak discharge current of + or - 120A will be enough to leave 94 99A when starting the bike? Thanking you
@@pauldupond5653 1100 GSXR is a big bike. 99A starting current is almost like starting a car. for me i don't think 40A continuous and 120A peak is enough for your bike. honestly i don't trust the BMS. you better use bigger BMS for 99A start current you better use at least 160A peak or more. as my experience on BMS , its peak current usually double its continuously current. 40A peak should be 80A.
@@pauldupond5653 oh one more thing, in my video, the BMS that i use is just for control charging the battery only. i direct the battery terminal to the starter battery.
It's not a jump starter... It's battery charger... I do it with drill battery 20 volt .. to charge the battery then disconnect the drill battery then jump start my car with its battery after charged
Don't LOL, just learn before comment. The BMS does not handle the output current, it balances the input current and voltage when charging. It seems you know nothing about Li-Ion battery and BMS.
This is a scam.. Isn't the battery high discharge, BMS is also 30A?? It can't start the car. Even the electric wire is too thin... If you start the car with that electric wire, the electric wire burns right away.
i put the text in the video already that the BMS is use for charging only. the output that use to start the engine is direct from the battery. the battery is not high continuous discharge but its surge discharge is high in short period. this power bank is use to assist the car battery it mean that the current is not draw from the power bank only but also the car battery and the car engine that it can start is just for small city car type not very car.
in my video the car that is use is Kia morning 2004 gasoline engine and it crank current is about 90A at the first second of the start. the power bank could provide about 70A in 2 second the remain current it will draw from the car battery.
Very dangerous & childish dezine. No protection from the returning current to the battery once the car starts. Very thin wires used in the mains. Fuse socket placed in a very dangerous place, if blown will damage the cell.
