DIY Cheap Haimer Replacement Tips! | WW234 

John, When you dial in a 4 jaw (or 4 set screw), don't look for the high or low spot. Look for the high/low readings ONLY at the points in line with the opposing screws. Adjust for 1/2 the total runout at those points. Much easier than chasing some "high spot" at a point in between the 2 actual adjustment axis.

Any other German here for whom the Haimer 3D Teister sounded funny? Haimer is a German company and as such they write the product name in German (3D Taster). It has nothing to do with the taste you may or may not have. Taste in German is a trigger switch and the verb tasten means to touch something, so a 3D Taster is a 3D touch probe. The a is pronounced [a] compared to [ei] in English.

Whats the correction?

Reading the left of the block to the second block says you have the length of center of the ball to the base is pretty close. But since the pivot point and the ball are far enough apart you could have a fair error in the z axis and only show a few tenth's in xy.

Note: The screws re part of a flexure and are not meant to accommodate a lot of motion. It may be better to limit this adjustment to be less than a few thou. I worry for those who just crank very hard caused the flexure to fracture.

Damn you, after watching this video I went home and broke a Haimer tip :(

Enjoyed the video on the Haimer. One of these is on my 'want' list even though the cost is substantial, especially for a home shop hobbyist. But then so is a mill, lathe and all the other tooling. I am strictly manual but I thoroughly enjoy you videos. Your presentations are always great.

Not sure with the new generation haimer but on the previous model, when trying to adjust the run out, the stickyness on those adjustment screws is due to the Bolt in the top of the shank, it's pulling the haimer body onto the shank and that friction of the mating surfacing is preventing that easy adjustment on each of the adjustment screws. I figure the new generation model is using the same method which makes fine adjustment a pain. as David S. had mentioned as well, you want to use those adjustment screws as your reference for the DTI instead of finding exact high and low spots, you set them by rotating 180 degrees between the opposing set screws and centering out the DTI that way, much less guess work involved and only takes a few adjustments to get the DTI to have zero movement.

Hey John, the runout will be only canceled if the machine turns the spinde 180 degrees after going x+ to x- our Haindenhain Probe and controller on the Deckel Maho 220FD does this. Like this it always uses the same point on the probe.

I realize that the pencil lead is fairly stiff and brittle but have you considered simply 3d printing the whole thing with the 3 little pins made as thin wall hollow tubes? That way all you would need to do is slip in the lead and add the glue on the end.

Thought I was having a case of déjà vu. Then realised what was going on haha. Cheers for all the wonderful stuff you upload, super entertaining.

If you found the tip I assume you have the base, so just heat it up and the ceramic piece comes right out. Now you have 2 original parts to use a piece of 4 mm glass tubing bought on Amazon to reassemble it. Few people could print that part.

I love those engravers. I set up a job in copper to see how long it'd last in soft stuff and it's over 6 hours of cutting at 16k rpm

Funny thing happened... Tried the pencil lead trick, but instead of using the jig, I kept filing down on the three prongs until I reached the desired length. My testbed was a 1-2-3 block on the vise, and kept measuring on both X and Y axes until measurements checked out. Oddly, the resulting tool length is 2mm shorter than the original one (got this data from the previous tool offset). Now, if I'm getting consistent measurements on X and Y, shouldn't it also be implicit that Z axis checks out (due to, let's say, trigonometry ???) What worries me is that the original tip got stuck in the threaded part (I crashed it on the Z axis, so the tip went straight through and got lodged in the metal part that screws into the Haimer), so I fear that maybe the Z axis mechanism could have suffered some damage.

Could the Jig be 3D printed as well ? Since the holder is 3D printed there's already a compromise in precision that shouldn't affect the overall outcome.

These pencil leads are available in very much different hardness grades, which one would you recommend? And should it be graphite or better the colored ones which seem to be a little bit softer but maybe more resistance against humidity?

Thanks for another fantastic video! What a great idea! Just curious, I noticed that you created two 3D printed parts to hold both ends of the Loc-Line that is attached to your Fogbuster. Are you willing to share these drawings?

The youtube playbar fits perfectly in the fusion simulation lines ~2:53

after seeing your broken tip collection I don't feel so bad !

Nice solution!

Awesome "out of the circle" thinking!

I want to order a plastic tip and it look everywhere and can't find it , where to go for buy it ?

This is great! How much for some 3d parts for us people that don't have a printer yet?

Is the Z set in the software?

Best thumbnail you have ever done. Hahahah. Love it. :D

"Just the tip" Thats what she said

10:54 so thats 0.01mm 5 tick on dial. have to get those. we only 0.01 line acuracity. thats allfine. better than paper

I have machined professionally for over ten years, and not once broken a probe tip by my mistake. Have broken one Haimer tip when toolchanger error dropped it. The jog directions should be in your spine, and not rush it. If you dont have time to think it over, how on earth you'd have time to do it twice?

7:11 that never happen when use handwheel

The ONLY problem is you'll have to do this to every tip you produce. No consistency.

3d taster?

Should try this with a piece of dry spaghetti

Some days later: M6 T99 M3 S10000

3D taster? some kind of food expert?

I sneezed and pressed the wrong jog button.. rip haimer tip =(

8:11 is it correct lenght lol. lets glue it lol. you not get correct measure if it wrong lenght. who cares better than paper measure and that can be acurate as hell lol

5:21 how you break them i still use original lol. you cant hit rapid. your selector is steps and max step is 0.1mm oh you are using bad desingned machine. i have never in my life even rapid move by hand. why?

i forgive you

Or just snap a new tip over a single edge for a clean break and glue back with crazy glue. Strong enough to use breaks on the glue cut. Cost 00.2 cents.

and only for a minute.

I feel this is a jab at AvE...

first?

30 buck real haimer tip allready cheap what u talking bout lol