DIY CNC 4th Axis Follow Up and Details 

Cutting some nice chips ! You have a really clear style for technical explanations. Thank you.

This is one of the coolest diy I have seen!

Hey Jeff, great addition to the mill. 👍🏻

Great vid dude. Planning on buying a mill myself and using your video as a guide

That's a nice 4th axis, and it's not a horribly expensive or complicated build kudos to you on that. I may need to build one of these for my tormach 440. Only thing is, I have my ATC chilling right above that location and I'm wondering if I could somehow mount it on the other side. To guarantee no interference with my longer tools

That's a great looking set up you have there , I have made a similar 4th axis for my mill using the head stock from an old mini lathe but I just attached angle plates to the side of the head stock and bolted direct to the table, this allows me to use the original tail stock for support between centres , Mine has a nema 34 with I think 8nm holding torque but only 2-1 reduction , I have attached a bicycle brake disc to the spindle but need to re do the mounting bracket to fit the caliper , I intend to use either a small pneumatic cylinder or servo motor to operate the caliper and hopefully run it through Mach3 some how but I think that's a long way off yet . Keep up the good work.

Oh man this turned out awesome!

You can do simultaneous 4 axis toolpaths in Fusion without the manufacturing extension. It's in 2D contour, check the box "wrap toolpath". Bam

very good video..thanks for your time

Thats really neat. You did a fantastic job on that rotary. I love My 4th axis. I Will be making a video of a cool part i am making in my rotary table on My cnc mill soonish. 👍👍👍

The "Use Radius for Feedrate" is poorly understood. It is Mach3's method to adjust rotary feedrate to achieve the tools velocity in the cut regardless of the diameter of the work. If you use the centre of rotation as zero, it is still relevant. What happens is Mach3 adds that setting to the Z axis DRO at any time and uses that total number to adjust the rotary feedrate. So even if the setting is zero, Mach adds zero to the Z axis DRO reading and adjusts accordingly. There used to be a bug where, if the setting was zero, then Mach would automaticaly turn the feature off. I always used a very small mumber (0.00001) in that setting even when using centre of rotation as a work around. As I remember this bug was fixed but I don't remember what version that was. It is a while since I moved on from Mach3.

Can you turn? I mean that if you can make pieces as if it were a lathe, roughing of cylindrical materials; Does it reach speeds like a lathe? I want to make one but with a CNC router and mount the rotary lathe but be able to use it as a lathe. I hope you understand me and your machine and the work you do are excellent, regards.

Would be awesome to see a video on your methodical probing. Seems you have it pretty down pat. *thumbs up*

Could you do me a favor and let me know how much width this machine takes? As in footprint width for a shop? I want to get the same one with cnc add on but not sure the width with power motors installed. Thank you, great channel!

I do not mean to point this out for a bad comment. But you need to check the Z linear movement. @5:00 it's wobbling a lot! 😏 Nice DIY btw... 👌🏻👍🏼

Huh... surprised that you are not getting more issues with rotational flex from the belt drive... I might have to cook one up myself. 🤔

How do you calculate the steps for rotary motion instead of linear motion? I am contemplating adding a 4th axis to my mill.

What do you use for the sprayer? Looking for something like this for my drill press.

Nice

Hello what if I want to drill the center of the piece u cant do that with a 4 axis machine can you?

Try climb cutting for a better side milling finish

I’m curious, when milling the hexagon shape, why the loopy path? *asked by someone with no CAD/CAM experience

Man, just think how much time you can save making spline shafts...

I know this is nearly 2 years old now and maybe you've already come to know this but in case not, 2:55, no, that poor side milling finish in this example is not the tool or the machine, it is because you were "conventional milling" which will always leave a rather poor finish because of the flute cutting edge entering the cut at zero thickness which cause it to rub and flex rather than cut and basically tried to push the material out of the way rather than cut it until it builds up enough for the cutting edge to actually cut and then the next flute does the same, and so on... For superior finish any time side milling, you have to "climb mill" especially in softer materials like aluminum so the cutting edge is always entering the cut at the thickest portion of the cut and thus the edge actually cuts in and shears away the material like its supposed to. If you are afraid of the tool grabbing and walking on the part, "Conventional mill heavier roughing pass (passes) and leave a few thou minimum for a finish pass and do the finish pass in a climb mill direction. On small cutters and shallow radial depths of cut (a few to even as much as .010", especially in aluminum and other soft materials), the pulling force from the cutting edge grabbing the material and trying to walk along it is so low that you could even technically hold the part by hand with no problem.

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