DIY Electric Bike V2 

What kind of motor did you use, was it the same as Tom's?

Fredo do U have video on ur build

@@grahambate3384 Nope! I don't think I'll make one as I'm bad doing vids xD So far I've been using it for about 5000+Km and it's still fine! I've been runt over by a car once that completely destroyed the prints, I've reprinted stuff and and fixed it no problems :)

@@knicklichtjedi6833 Yes, the same motor but I've sensored it.

I am also trying to re-create Tom's V1 bike, but the cost of a VESC is the main limiting factor for me. You said that it works fine with just a normal ESC, would u recommend getting a ESC or should I invest more in to a VESC? I was thinking of getting the FCESC 4.12 but it doesn't look like it can handle the high power requirements for the the bike. What VESC did you end up going with? What Normal ESC did you test?

Lol

It's only slightly more than moped speeds, but a helmet would be prudent. But I would assume he already has got one.

👀

I loved it. I am a boy here from Brazil, I am studying your project, so far the one that most develops potential of harnessing electric power. I am in the beginning but I intend to replicate it.

W͓̽i͓̽n͓̽t͓̽e͓̽r͓̽ ͓̽ F͓̽a͓̽l͓̽l͓̽s͓̽ dude you just need a wedge between them too motors to stop them coming together

harry loud this

Or even better, a brake lever with a potentiometer on it to feed into the Arduino to override the throttle and tell the VESCs to brake.

Might I add to the topic? First, add a housing for the motor housing. Why? In part to keep you or others from accidentally losing finger[s] when you have the drive unut exposed as in this video. You could have the housing have plenty of air flow. Inside, add at least one high-speed fan to make sure that the air flow is strong enough to maintain a lower overall temperature. Secondly, you are using your current front-brake system in the current model. Have you thought of using that lever to apply both front and back brakes? I am thinking that you could use the travel and force of the handle. Basically, when you move the front-wheel brake lever, you use the electric information to cause the motors slow down and, thus, you have the rear wheel slowing. This will keep your bike from having the front wheel lock which might cause you bike to rotate over the front wheel which might ruin your day (if not your death). You can take feedback from the motors to keep the rate of decrease from burning your motors and/or stretching (breaking?) the belts. Finally, why not use gears to connect the motor drives instead of using the belt? That would be the approach to avoid stretching/breaking the motor belt. Why use two motors in the first place? A single motor system is so much better than the two-motor design from, at least from "number of things that can break" view. O!, I just wonder why you keep the batteries in your back pack instead of placing it to, at least, the horizonal bar that you show or just have it connected immediately under your electronics below your seat. Are the cables able to disconnect easily or would a fall force you to be linked to the bike? I love your design. Keep it up!

ABS (system, not plastic:) on the bicycle might be a bad idea (that's me driving bike to work for several years through city not suited for bikes). ABS will try to unblock wheels, and instead of falling (when both wheels are blocked) you will continue to run forward with breaks on low(ish). In city environment it is sometimes safer to fall then to move further forward few more meters. And in any case ABS should be installed on front wheel, not back one, as on the back wheel it would be just ineffective - blocking back wheel is not dangerous per se, and can be used in extreme maneuvers (aka street racers on a car do:)).

Came here to say this. Those motors should easily be able to handle regen braking a la a Tesla or at least provide "thrust" reversing like a locomotive.

Yes, regen should. Give you some braking effect. Brake with throttle first and friction second.

Haha ignore what others say and get that ebike going!! Thanks!

I don't think it would matter. If you have enough braking power to lock your wheels the limiting factor becomes the tire compound not the brakes.

Fred Flintstone didn't have brakes :.)

Whats the point of owning a 3D printer then?

It's just too heavy and expensive to pay off

@@Fred_the_1996 regenerative breaking is not a separate mechanism, the breaking and thus the regeneration is done in the electric motor. a generator is just a normal motor used in reverse.

Much better than the calipers given the power but I suspect it’ll cause alignment issues with his printed gear

Ah, the whole metal thing spins? thought it only was the plastic

Skateboard bearings fitted into the pulley end caps and a turnbuckle would make an adjustable rung/spacer that could be moderately adjusted for plastic warping, belt slipping or belt stretching.

I also thought about a spacer between the motors then realised that the outer casings spin

You could attach the spacer to the back plate in a T-Shape. You'd have to put bearings on the ends of the spacer but it's doable.

Yeah, add bearings to the end of the motor pulleys, and connect a floating link to hold the two motor pulleys apart against the tension of the belt more securely, removing the bending force on the main motor mount. The link could incorporate a belt tensioner of some sort as well.

usertogo if you print pla with thin walls only 1 maybe 2 shells and a really low infill like 8% or lower you can do lost pla castings.

There is SLA resin for lost wax casting, no ash residue

Where can we buy these motors? Thank you

Thanks man!

Hardrive33 ....bingo..

Probably enigne motor 775. But I don't know. I think so It's motor 775.

Super

Serg Cas you feel it and hear it

Torben Voltmer how about printing in ABS? May need an enclosure for the cr-10, but it has a heated bed and should be able to print abs. Maybe PET is better than abs.

I have! I actually planned to move to PETG if this didn't work. It 'works' but maybe I'll still move to PETG to improve it

Tom Stanton Hi Tom, you should reach out to Matter Hackers and see if they will give you some Taulman Nylon filament to test. They have a number of options. PETG would be a step up, but it is not as rigid as ABS. ABS was originally chemically designed for its ability to be injection molded easily. Nylon far surpasses all of these for strength rigidity and temperature resistance to deformation. Watch Tom Sanladerer's filament review videos ("filaween") to get an understanding of the strength differences between filaments. At any rate, with 21000 subscribers you should be able to get some filament company to send you some nylon filament free of charge. -A Fellow RU-vidr

Torben Voltmer How about 3d print then mold in aluminium!

okfj Well I think petg is a good compromise between strength/temperature resistance and printability... I personally haven't tried abs, but petg works quiet well on my machine. Tom Stanton Nice to here :) Gillenz Fluff If you really want it made out of aluminum, cnc machining is the way to go for something like this.

or just print it in petg 🤔

Marko Petejan this is exactly what I want to see

it sounds cool but it is really impractical unless you are going offroad then it would be sick

I’m about to do a build for my brother starting with front wheel motor , but I intend to add rear motor in future 👍🏼😜

It's dangerous because the front wheel of the bike is not built for taking torque and after time It can fold and break

fredrik 887 why would that be, the rim, spokes and number of spokes is normally the same front to back. The fork may or may not be an issue though?

It looks like the cans themselves spin, which would mean a brace would have to contain a bearing or something or it would stop the motors.

basti_co the chain tension will mostly be defined by the torque being transmitted between the motors, not the preload on the chain.

Nasty oil and sound.

Chains do exactly the same thing as tooth belts, expect adding noise.

Guys. I have a propper project with chains. Scooter motor, scooter sprocket and chain, and my tricycle with charging board, wind turbines, solar panel when parked somewhere, when riding using turbins for charging 2 batteries. So you never need to do something, just changind batteries when getting old. I will show only in private my project free energy tricycle scooter, 2 wind turbines, usb lights, board car lighter and usb port for phones and sat navigation. Its cost £1700 pounds to do yourself. Do not follow shitty ideas. Go on chains.

LegendLength For all RPM and all torque, best is no chain no belt. Direct drive.

It's a Turnigy 6374 192kv from Hobbyking

Théo Guterres super

I hope Tom looks at your comment because you're exactly right, without an anti spark used to complete a connection from battery to vesc the vesc is likely to fry no mater how low the series count.

Get the plastic parts made out of aluminum

You can’t because the motor can spins

Eae mano

Eu queria é os dados do projeto kkk

I think it's dying because of having too long cables between the batteries and VESC. This causes very high inductance in the cables. It causes voltage spikes that get worse and worse as the erpm and switching frequencies of the mosfets increases. Voltage spikes that are way beyond the capacitors can handle. (the capacitors are there to reduce these spikes, but they have a limit too. You could add more caps in parallel, but you need special caps). You could be right though, but I think Vedder already taught about the problem, so he implemented a speed limiter. It limits the current the motor gets if it is close or reaches ~60000 erpm. I am not sure, I don't remember exactly.

Tomas Begley

Back emf when the bike is regenerating

Kketansa Art you could also install an adjustable bearing to this plate (in contact with belt) that can increase tension to the belt between the two motors and can be tweaked for optimisation (similar to what you’ve done on the drive belt but one you can adjust)

Oh, and of course, 3D printed parts are fine, but a spacer such as this is easily cut in plywood or a few pieces of sheet metal. You probably don't have to redo the pulleys, if you can get to a lathe, perhaps you can make some shaft bits that screw in on top of the small pulleys (if the four bolts leave room for a shaft between them).

That's exactly what I was thinking.

+Mikael Klynder the reason for going with two smaller motors over one larger motor is due to the VESCs only being able to deliver 50A constant. So would need a higher power speed controller with current limiting capabilities. I'm working on a half 3D printed, half aluminium motor mount now that will allow for motor spacing adjustment. The belt didn't slip too bad at first, but it has definitely got worse due to stretching. So hopefully the added strength of the aluminium bracket and the adjustability of the motors should fix the slipping issues. If not, I'll look into adding support to the other ends if the motors. Thanks!

Mikael Klynder If 1 burns out you still have 1!

Gillenz Fluff Haha, I'd rather go with Tom's explanation that his other parts could only handle the smaller motors ☺️ While it IS true that one motor burning out leaves you one still functioning, here are the downsides (that I can think of at the moment): - double the risk that a motor will burn out 🙃 - added complexity - more parts - additional points of failure - added mass - lower efficiency (connecting belt plus an extra motor with internal losses, e.g. bearings). - definitely higher cost... ... but I get that Tom already had many of the parts, making this solution a good choice for this particular case 😃 (and fun)!

Selling a kit... that would be highly illegal. UK law is that anything over 15.5 mph, or not working through pedal assist, is a motorbike. As such, you then need to meet regulations for motorcycles. Now, while technically just using the thing on road is illegal, they're quiet roads. But, once you start selling a product, that's when the proverbial hits the fan.

Nathaniel Cleland Then sell it as just a general purpose motor not only for bicycles

Nathaniel Cleland you can limit the speed,add brake and sell it as a kit

Don't let the bastards beat you down.

@@Bellezzasolo so sell it in the usa and india. huge markets different laws

I'm more interested in 73mph Enduro ebike with a 60 mile range

500 w maximum

depends on the speed of rotation

more torque than speed

Certainly

Aaahh 4kw ??? You surr