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Basically a 555 pulsed flyback driver. I love those IC's! I made a strobe light from one using a 5v relay on the output and an 8 led flashlight. I wired the relay to the flashlight switch terminals, used a potentiometer to control the pulse frequency & It was awesome.
Thank you for a really interesting video. You presented some very useful points. I have been around electronics all of my life but hadn't thought to use a car coil for this purpose. Love the ubiquitous 555 timer of course! All the best to you.
Love it, I have, at this time, 4 fencers and purchased new all 4 of them would not even tickle a goat much less a horse unless the horse sticks her nose on it I have tried coils before but was only setting them up on the hot lead out of the fencer.
The circuit that is shown starting at 0:37 is missing three things: Pin 4 should be wired to the positive supply (pin8), a 0.01uf capacitor should be wired from pin 5 to ground (pin 1) and a 1N4007 diode should be wired from the drain (the lead of the mosfet that feeds the coil, the 15 ohm feeds the gate and the source is wired to ground) to the coil with the cathode to the drain and the anode to the coil. This will protect the mosfet from induced voltage in the coil. I also placed a 2K ohm resistor and a red LED from pin 3 to ground (cathode of the LED to ground) so that I could see the pulses. This is definitely an option.
The old fence charger I had around the chicken coop had just quit working and I was ready to buy a new one, but then I found your wonderful schematic. I had to make lots of part substitutions from your original design, with parts I had laying around, but son-of-a-gun if it doesn't work great. And it cost zero! I added a 120k resistor and LED across pin 3 on the 555 and the input to the transformer primary and that gives a visual indication at night from a distance that the charger is working. I Ty-rapped everything inside of a clear plastic mayonnaise jar and it looks pretty weird. But it works GREAT! Thank you for your design! Lloyd
@@clintm2010 Sure. I didn't change the schematic, but I did substitute some parts, as follows. For the power source, I used a 12vdc plug-in wall wart charger. I tried a 9volt battery but it didn't last very long. For the 4700uf 16v cap, i just wired two 1000uf and two 470uF caps in parallel to get about 3,000 uF. I used the 1Meg,18k, and 15 ohm resistors, 555 timer, and 1 uF cap as shown in the schematic, without change. Instead of the 1N4148 diode, I used a 1N4002. An IRF740 mosfet was used instead of the IRF244. Instead of the .33uF 250v mylar film cap, I used a pair of 250v 104 mylars in parallel to get .20uF. After trying unsuccessfully to find a good substitute for the automotive coil, I ended up ordering one from Rockauto parts for only $7.67, pn CUC12. I was ordering some other stuff from Rock, too, so the shipping cost wasn't a factor. I added a 12k resistor in series with a white LED, and connected them between the gate of the mosfet (where the 15 ohm resistor hooks to it) and the drain of the mosfet (where the negative primary of the ignition coil connects). That flows enough current to see a dim flash in the LED each time the coil is pulsed. Looking at my charger now, I see that I also installed a small 0.1uF ceramic cap across the - and + primary terminals of the ignition coil. Not sure why I did that and it might work fine without it. Just a note, all of the substitutions were made so that I didn't have spend any money on this project. I guess spending $7.67 on the coil is ok. This charger is powerful. With the 12vdc wall wart power supply, it gives a healthy blue spark over 13mm long. Be careful! I haven't found out what the weak link in the circuit is yet, because it is still working just fine. Again, thanks to Ludic Science for his well done video. Lloyd
@@ranveeradav1402 yes, the intensity will vary with the fence length. You can connect the positive terminal in various parts of the fence to avoid this problem
Hi a have a question aboute the miniature voltage booster does it matters if the winding of the primary and secondary in the same side i mean from left to right both of them or it should be opposite. thanks anyway
Mate the components specs were listed on the schematic, and tbh when dealing with these types of electronics the specs aren’t really that important, as long as you don’t put a 10 volt cap in a 10,000 volt circuit that is some extreme smooth brained shit.
i have 3in plasma ball and a ignition coil, made a similar circuit with 555 with pirmary in the collector of the transistor, i got mild hv shocks on the -ve of 12v battery. how to connect the common of hv to common of the circuit.
How about using a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer with just an on off switch? That would give me a 60 cycle pulse out of the ignition coil but is there something I am not considering I dont want to give my dogs a permanent smile. Should I use some kind of resistor to limit the current? Thanks
If another coil was added using the power from the first, would it increase the output? I use 7 joule chargers but they are A/C powered. I want to build something solar I can use away from the barn.
You can get fencing at any hardware store like Home Depot or the like. The sheep you can find out in public anywhere yelling at people who aren't wearing masks or social distancing.....
How about using a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer with just an on off switch? That would give me a 60 cycle pulse out of the ignition coil but is there something I am not considering I dont want to give my dogs a permanent smile. Should I use some kind of resistor to limit the current?
Nice video. However, I've experimented with different variations of these 555 ignition coil drivers, they work pretty well. That is of course until the 555 gets fried from HV feedbac into the positive rail. They fry 555s all the time. Do you have any ideas for improvements that would isolate the 555 from HV feedback? Maybe use of an opto-isolator or something similar? Thanks.
Transient voltage suppressor across the power rail, try a 1.5KE18, in parallel with the 4700uF capacitor, and use something like a 78L09 regulator to feed the 555 timer’s power. The TVS clamps the voltage to no higher than 30 volts. A 555 would still blow up with that spike but the 78l09 won’t. Use recommended capacitors around the 78l09. Also, add a 12 volt zener from gate to ground across the MOSFET. You can also use an ignition clamped IGBT in place of the MOSFET, but do make sure it is meant for ignition coil service, not the usual motor drive versions that are not clamped.
There is a resistor on the board that is not in the schematic connected to the ground rail. The drawn schematic does not correspond to the prototyping board. What is the resistance value from A25 to the negative rail.
I'm going to make this to stop people pulling up my plants in my front garden. The plants are not expensive but well established. I'm on a low income and resent people thinking it's fun to spoil my floral display. It's for the benefit of everyone.
what is the minimum amperage source I can use to power this circuit? can I use a 120v to 12v transformer? I am on my way to buy the parts hoping it will keep my dogs in my yard, we already paid $100. to get them out of dog pond once. Repaired fance $70. and one of them still getting out.
Its called an automotive ignition coil. Here is a link to one that I just bought on ebay. > www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-IGNITION-COIL-FOR-FORD-JEEP-LINCOLN-MERCURY-AMERICAN-MOTORS/224007691442?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Its just the old style of ignition coils for older cars
The first rung is the battery/power supply. Second rung shows 4700ohm 16v. ohms are resistance but the schematic shows it drawn as a capacitor. Please clarify this for me.
I would read through all the comments some have changed that cap ( the original is a 4700uf 16v) the big one on the left but like I mentioned there are a few possible changes to this circuit so you should read all comments they can be confusing but if you draw the circuit as is in the original diagram and then draw what you see in the video how it is on the bread board the comments will fill in the rest that seems to make since to me I think I've got a pretty good plan using original and then Airgunlab's comments and Mark Kay's comments adding to the breadboard pictured in the video. It's all I could do because the follow up on questions isn't getting to many replays since this circuit is pretty old. Good luck friend !
@@tracyforbes7317 Heartfelt thanks in fact I have read almost all the comments, honestly I'm trying to build it and hopefully well, you are very kind of the answer thanks, in fact the wiring diagram lacks the connection of pin 4 of the NE555 to pin 8 otherwise in my opinion it doesn't work, I'm using a circuit simulator I hope I can get it to work. Thanks
so these ignition coils are kinda expensive, the ones for cars anyway. and i saw these small coils for motorcycles. do you happen to know how these compare to the car ones by any chance?
you forgot to say that the poles that hold th fence should not be out of metal, and one has to touch the ground and the fence to get a shock which only applies to animals since they go not have shoes.
...of course the poles can be metal...the electric fence wire is attached to an insulator, not the poles. At least once a week you will find me replacing plastic insulators after a "deer strike". And the idea that only animals will get a shock if they touch the fence since they "go not have shoes" is absurd. While wearing boots is helpful in avoiding shocks, a 10-15 kV pulse will do it's best to find a way to ground; a task made sooo much easier if the grass/ground/boot leather/ feet are wet. [and sometimes the horses are wearing shoes. Metal ones. Doesn't protect them a bit.]
@trench - chuckle: I wear rubber boots and I touch my fence wire with the back of my finger to see if it's working. It shocks the tar out of me every time "unless" the fence wire shorts to the ground through grass or anything else that conducts the voltage to ground. When I get no shock OR a weak shock I walk around the fence and remove whatever is touching the fence wire and the ground at the same time. Oh, and if on some days I want a milder shock I pull a grass shaft and hold that in my hand to "test" the fence. When the fence charger is working I still get a shock (that won't make me jump back) while wearing boots. Touching the ground with my hand definitely gives a me shock, but touching the ground isn't required. You'e right about preventing the wire from touching the metal posts. I'm using T-posts driven a foot or more into the dirt but they have insulators to prevent them from shorting the fence wire to ground.
மின் வேலி அலாரம் சர்க்யூட் பற்றிய குறிப்பை எனக்குத் தர முடியுமா? நான் இலங்கையைச் சேர்ந்தவன் Can you give me a hint about the electric fence alarm circuit? I am from Sri Lanka
Please how can I use the high voltage from the ignition coil to power my home appliance. Or how can the voltage be reduced to usable voltage to power my home Thnx
This only produces very short duration high voltage pulses and the average power output will be far too low for your type of application. To produce AC power for your home from low voltage DC you should research inverters which are available with power outputs from about 50W up to many KW.
I was thinking about feeding those pests using a metal bowl, a metal 'mat', one of those $3 'taser' modules from ebay, a motion sensor and a delay circuit (to allow time to commence eating :-P). Non lethal but they'd hopefully think about crapping elsewhere in future.
good idea but it is not working very well .firstly ignitial coil is using 2.7 amps at every cicyle so battery slow down ,secondly electrik shock isnt efective which is very poor ...thanks
