I'm gonna try this out as soon as I get the new set of bearings so I can assemble it right away afterwards. My approach will be to add a steel plate or mesh at the bottom and then throw a whole bunch of random steel onto it to act as sacrificial metal, that way I'll get a lot of surface area without the need to put wires between them all
DOOE=D 1970s, first O last number of decade 0, second O is original application (don't know O off top of my head) usually C orT car or truck, E is part type, E is engine. That casting is a 1970 production iron engine block. It should be the early heavier/stronger block but you need to measure it, this could be a 9.2 inch deck height before Ford went to the 9.5 inch deck height. It will work fine but be aware of the measurements, they will effect parts selection and final assembly. The first tank should have Red Devil lye and Tri Sodium Phosphate and the second one should have clothes washing 'Soda' the first was where you were,(the paint department of the big-box store)( the second product is in the cleaner/clothes washing area of Walmart). What you are using is probably safer but a lot less effective. Put the metal can on an old grilled stoke up the Fire. Both baths will be done by morning. Be safe and Take care, -John
PS, I forgot to tell you... Have a big pot (like an old syrup kettle) full of real hot (was recently boiling) water, a couple of cans of WD40 and your air hose with a blower nozzle. Rinse with a cup of t h e water and a little brush or rag and blow dry with the compressed air. If you start seeing ANY Flash rust, go ahead and spray down the block with the WD 40. Start with the oil passages, then bearing areas and lifter bores and then the deck surfaces. It will prevent it from rusting and can be wiped off with the LAs Awsome from dollar general store, when you are ready to paint the motor. Ya'll Take Care, -John
