DIY -How To Diagnose No Spark No Start. Bad Crank Sensor? FREE SBQM VIDEO 

The relevancy, quantity and quantity of information here meets and exceeds anybody’s wildest expectations for people who value learning and growing in knowledge and discernment, and intuition,. This is coming from a guy 74 years old who is cross training into automotive diagnostics. Matt is a really good model and teacher.

💜💜💜 I love seeing your more detailed videos from the website on the SB RU-vid channel. You are always doing something to help others, the repairs, the videos, etc. Love you 😍

Nothing better than investing in the younger ones. Hats off sir. You explain everything in detail and I watch with intentness. Awesome video

Nice clean diag. I have done this one before on a friend's Civic but it had NO compression to the point where after getting the ICM installed had to squirt oil into the cylinders to get it to run. There was so much fuel in the engine that the oil was all washed off of the cylinder walls. Once we did get it started it ran fine but told him to change the oil before driving it.

Good to see there is someone like you , who is not a parts replacer, this problem with most mechanics would be in the $500 dollar range with parts and labor . Maybe even more. Having just replaced a crank position sensor on a 2003 silverado it was definitely a challenge to say the least. I got lucky with only replacing a oxygen sensor then the crankshaft sensor which was the problem. Your video was so interesting in your diagnostic testing. Your a smart dude and thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Hi Matt. Thanks your video I solved a big problem with my Old Subaru 2.2 16V 1993. Here in Brazil things are complicated. Lot of mechanics don't work with old car, and leave me with my problem. Your explanation about Fase Sensor was a key. Thank you very much

I highly doubt that there is a better value on RU-vid or the entire internet than SBQM. You Rock, Matt!

Thanks Matt! Great troubleshooting as well as great detailed explanation of the how and why of the issue.

I am a 60 year old tinkering mechanic, I do not own a scope ,just the tools shown in the video. I’ve learned more in this video than all the rest that I’ve seen!! ❤ Nice! Great Job!

I have never seen an accurate diagnostic video like this before! so I really appreciate that. You did a great job

This was amazing. I like how you combine the scientific method into the mechanics, going deeper it gave me insight to functionality of electric principles underlying the major components like the distributor in this case. I feel like I understand really well how a distributor works now.

TDC -Top Dead Center sensor. Trigger 4 times per engine cycle. Once at every cylinders top dead center. TDCP -One of the wires for the TDC sensor TDCM -The other wire for the TDC sensor CKP Crankshaft position sensor. Triggers 24 times for every engine rotation. CKPP -One of the wires for the CKP sensor CKPM -The other wire for the CKP sensor CYP -Cylinder Positions Sensor Triggers once every engine cycle at top dead centre of cylinder #3. CYPP -One of the wires for the CYP sensor CYPM -The other wire for the CYP sensor

I've just now found you on RU-vid! Awesome and really smart I think I'll sign up for your online paid videos. Thanks brother

Been watching your vids for a few years , I'm a keen diy mercanic just work on my own car ....really really good instructional video

There is an absolute plethora of knowledge contained in this one video alone. If you work through all the projects on SBQM, you can equip yourself with enough knowledge to rival a masters degree. Where else can one attain that level of knowledge for less than the price of a pancake each month? You do the math. 💰💰💰

You are very thorough when explaining what you are troubleshooting and I appreciate that. I also know you have checked the fuse or ckt breaker LOL. Keep up the white board explanation, that is what I find in my opinion puts you above 90 % of the Instructors found on the internet. There are way to many parts swappers and it drives me nuts when I don't know what the actual problem is before ordering parts. Thanks for all your hard work, I subscribed to you when ever you first started and had very few subscribers.

Very good presentation, I have been dealing with Honda and Toyota Igniters since the early 80's and I have replaced a million of them over the years, hardly any coils. Just so you know, back then they made really good parts, they don't any more so unless it's original Honda or Beck Arnley it probably won't last so keep that in mind if it quits 6 months from now you might have to do it again so make sure you keep the reciet.

Very nice diagnostic demonstration. I take my hat off to you, sir. Wish I had found out about your channel a long time ago, not last week. I had an intermittent ICM failure during 4 months last year on my 99 Honda Accord V6. 2 shops and 3 different electricians couldn't diagnose, until it finally gave out completely. A DIY mechanic friend of mine diagnosed it doing a similar coil test, and ruling out injection or fuel pump. Many videos had led me to believe the main relay was faulty, but again, this friend of mine simply observed if the immobilizer light in the dashboard worked with the relay disconnected, didn't, so he immediately ruled out a bad main relay.

As always Matt, love your content! Been busy with other projects so not on RU-vid as much, but when I tune in your channel is top.

The Honda system is known as the P.G.M.F.I. Sequential fuel injection , the ignition module is a very common fault and although it looks quite complicated to check it’s not half as bad as it looks, the fact you had a pulse at the injectors tell you that the cam and crank sensors are ok , I’ve got a detailed breakdown of the system somewhere in my tool box I’ll send you a copy when I come across it, it may help in the future cheers

P = plus M - Minus Thanks for the great channel!

Awesome video as usual. Excellent explanation and demonstration of concepts.

Thank you for your patience and the education that you provide thank you 😊

THANK YOU! My 2001 Honda Cr-V has an intermittant Crank but No Start when it's cold outside (below 47F). I've been looking at the same wiring diagram (basically, honda). Tomorrow I'll use this info to crack on. I've really been at a loss. I've thrown way to many parts at this (despite doing my best to diagnose things - also used your videos for fuel system issue). Not sure if it's wiring or PCM issue at this point. The distributor is new & had the issue before. One thing I'm runnning up on is the blk/yel wire from coil to 15A fuse has continuity to ground. Does not when I pull the fuse. Not sure if thats OK - but I''ll use your technique to pull it down. Thanks again!!! Your videos are EVERYTHING!!! So good! I tried using "JustAnswer" auto mechanics "experts". Terrible experience. Very generalized and turned out to be A.I. chatbots anyway. Do you offer a pay-to-ask service? Anyway - keep at it!!! You are amazing!!!!

Great video Matt. Typically it’s always best to ground on the battery vs a sensor ground or any other ground due to possible voltage drop when using an oscilloscope. Thanks for sharing, excellent.

Great video as always, the only videos I like before playing them. The content is amazing Sir

I'm new viewer to your channel. Algorithm from RU-vid got me here😂. But I liked your video about the 'no start issue' with the car. I had a better understanding of the ignition problem. I have a 1997 Chevy cavalier which I had given up on, it was parked for 2 years after the diagnostic tool indicated I had bad PCM. So I bought a brand new one from O'Reilly's. Then it was recommended that I get it flashed. I went to two GM dealerships about flashing my car's PCM but they told me my car is obsolete and that it's too old and they only flash (reset) a vehicle's computer for 2000 yr and newer. 🤷. So I went to the junkyard to get a used PCM and my car started. (My car started to have anti-theft activation which I was overriding by doing the 10 minutes intervals 3x, {prior to my breakdown in 2021} until the theft light stops blinking and it was working for awhile until the 'no start happened' no one could figure out what was wrong with my car) One day probably 2 months ago a coworker at my job came over to my house and he tested my fuel pump relay and determined I had a bad wire. So he took out a small section of the bad wire near the firewall. And suddenly my car's fuel pump engaged (but he didn't bypass the fuel pump relay it remain intact). The only thing now is the anti-theft light stays on, but the car runs. Only issue I have is the car has hard starting issue. I suppose it is the fuel injector problem, I do see the leaks in all four fuel injectors. I ordered 4 brand new injectors so I plan to replace them. The car runs good after it starts. Once in awhile the anti-theft activates when I have a starting problem....then I have to wait 10 minutes for the anti-theft light to go off. I did see a RU-vid video where they said the anti-theft wire the middle wire can be cut to get rid of the problem for good. What is your take on the anti-theft activation problem? People suggested I put Seafoam in my gas tank because of the stale gasoline... yeah it seems to hv help clean out my fuel system, but I really suspect the fuel injectors are bad. The car runs good when I hit the hwy. The anti-theft situation I have no clue how to fix it. I keep overriding the anti-theft with the 'ignition-on' and waiting 10 minutes...it's a hassle. But most of the time I managed to start the car without activating anti-theft. Yes I felt like pushing my car off a cliff in 2021 after anti-theft system and fuel pump failed to engage. If anyone knows anything about anti-theft problems with 97 cavaliers give me a holler. My cavalier is my commute to work.

Yes sir... what a blessing you are to us.. thanks 🍻

enjoyed your video matt, very helpful

You’re the BEST! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Crank and Cam position sensors are the key to the control of the engine. Some engine have missing tooth on the crank for a reference to TDC...Once the computer has crank and cam information it knows exactly the position of each cylinder at a specific time and knows what to do in relation to ignition and fuel. I learnt all of this the hard way while designing a knock control system that listens for know only during the power stroke. It also determined which cylinder was knocking.

You are the best on here omg 👏👏👏👏👏 every single of them is very helpful

That was great,really appreciate yu. I've learnt a lot frm yu guys stay blessed

As an amateur scientist I can fully appreciate you using the SM. I am glad that you are so passionate about going through all the steps. Also I don't know how much you were charging this young man but if you were charging the typical $100-$150/hour wouldn't have been cheaper for him if you ordered a $70 distributor from Amazon and stuck that in? If it didn't fire up then you still are able to run your test. Just a thought. still a great video, you definitely know your stuff.

You have put me in your way I thought not possible

The electrical and fuel trims are my fav.!

Got same problem had problems with it cranking weird not wanting to start and now I’ve put a new battery in that’s not it took it back this definitely helped all have to check this now.

Thanks for the knowledge

Awesome stuff!!

Great video

I have a 88 mercedes 300se with this problem. You'd stop to get gas and the car wouldn't start. Sometimes some starter fluid would fire it off, then it would run. Finally i saw a video from a mercedes tech with the same car and problem. The crank shaft position sensor would heat soak when the car was shutoff hot. Then the ignition control module would not fire properly or good enough to start the car. I changed the crank sensor after measuring the resistance on the hot sensor like the tech did and replaced it. Engine ran fine after that. I didn't take notice of the tach not working in my car, interesting to note that.

That was fun! 👍

Hondas have relays before the igniter. The relays I've found on older ones were up in the instrument panel and difficult to access. Cars cranking endlessly without spark out in the field that I've gone to check, needed main relays alot. The internals of the relays looked as though they were poorly soldered. Others had igniter issue. That's a "what has been fixing them?" comment from experience. But fuses are a must check, no brainier. I had a Honda in the pitch black dark for a lady in a parking lot at a shopping center parking lot. No light to see by, and she had three dollars to her name, left for the month. The dollar store was nearby. We took the three dollars and bought a flashlight and batteries. I went to investigate her weird sudden no start. System prechecks are always a must. (Ford factory training) One of her fuses was missing. I think it was a 10 amp? A red ATC. We put one in there. Started and ran. Happy motoring. Where did her fuse go? FIIN. You can't leave a car unattended in some parts of the city. She could have caught a ride and returned to God knows what the next day. This place didn't even have the basic lights to see by in their shopping center. (Democrat run area) Her cars interior lights were also defeated or bulbs had failed. Good thing she still had a few bucks for a basic need in her neighborhood. A light to see with and a spare fuse.

My mercedes since it was 88 was pre obd2, i didnt have the star tool for the mercedes connector. I had an ignition control module - expensive, the crank sensor connected directly to that. Took that to multiple shops snd they were chasing their tail trying to figure it out when the car was running. Apparently the hood had to be shut on a hot car to get the crank sensor in failure mode.

I been working for weeks on a 2000 prelude with a similar problem. Even changing the whole distribuidor and I can’t get a spark from that. When the initial concern on the Honda dealer was the immobilizer control. That what they sold me and they cannot fixed after almost 2 months so I decide to start trying myself. I’m getting a better idea of how. Thanks

Good job

Absolutely a very useful video. Thank you so much 💓

Thank you for your videos

Nice video

That was good thank you

You & sma...are the best

🎉merry Christmas matt❤🤓👍🏻

You are a legend 👍

Excellent

Top video

I had a Toyota Camry, roughly the same year as this Honda,that had a similar problem but just had a really bad miss. Investigation showed there was an arc to the distributor shaft from the internal coil. It actually left burn marks on the shaft.

Thank you

I love to try what you teaching

Matt : If you want to spend some money , the ATS E Scan Elite will do a relative compression test at the OBD 2 connector , in seconds , also a Volumetric Efficiency Test ( clogged cat , bad MAF ) and a number of other tests . I am sure you have seen Bernie Thompson use it in his videos . However , at $ 1800.00 , a DIY could not justify the expense . And there may be a cost to update . But it's there if you can use it . I see it's all about using diagnostics instead of the parts cannon .

Maybe you would get a better spark on the testlight if you ground the secondary/body on your coil.

Firing the parts canon at it 😂😂😂 So true

Thank you sir 👍

My 97 civic has a po336 I am wondering if I need to replace my crankshaft position sensor in the distributor in that case get a new distributor the runs and drives but it's intermittent when it pops the po336 code I be driving down the road and i have to clear the code and it and runs find for a bit some days it doesn't even do it.

Awesome video! I'm trying to chase down a gremlin myself on my 2000 honda prelude. Has good compression, fuel, but not getting spark on cylinder 4. Has an obd1 distributor converted to coil on plug. Swapped coils and plugs, still no spark on cyl. 4. I'm leaning towards bad sensors inside the distributor, the cyp sensor

great man

The best way to check for spark is mess with your spark plug wires with engine running 💀💀💀 ask me how i know that 😂 Great info thanks Matt 👌

I replaced my fuel pump but my fuel pump gauge is not accurate, I have 28 gallon tank but then when I gas up it will only takes 20 gallon max,so there is Still 8 gallons in the tank but my fuel warning light illuminates and the needle is in Empty I gas ⛽ up but it will only take 20 gallons.How can I fix this?

I could use some help on this 2010 chevy traverse no body has been able to figure it out I was driving AND battery saver mode light came on and the truck shut off a mechanic checked it out and said that it would need a new motor so I ordered one he put it in and truck Crunk and ran good for a few minutes and then it cuts off and it keeps kicking off a crank position sensor code changed it 3 times and it is still not working it still keeps popping up the crank position sensor code and won't even crank now any suggestions on what it may be I paid $5,700 for the truck now have $12,000 in the truck (motor n shop bills and it is not running

Mitsubishi Pajero 2008 model car V6 does not get current in four flags, does it come in two?

Hat Matt, I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL that had a bad fuel pump after replacing the bad fuel pump with a new fuel pump a ran for less than a month the car started losing fuel pressure had to cut the car off and restart again to keep the car running this morning it cranks but will not start so what should I do to get it running again?

Thank you very much I love SB. How do I get copies of wiring diagrams for that particular vehicle because I'm doing the same thing right at the moment and haven't found the issue yet tested coil ICM ignition switch main relay you have given me the idea that I need to check sensors again thank you very much

I think you nabbed another paid subscription viewer. Well presented , learned a lot. One little comment. Good thing the ICM was not readily available because you seemed to have forgotten your observation of the loosygoosy distributer . Would have been a shame to install a new ICM into a distributor that was heading for the exit. You are now added to my short list. Pine Hollow and South Main are the others.👍

Nice work siiir

Hey Matt...all great 👍I actually had one of those days with that particular system and...distributor ciesed up and broke 😢😳🙄

loved the science behind it ... By the way distributor price Junkyard $20 ...lol, knowledge is also how to save money .

Hi Matt, was just woundering if you did use a diagnostic tool to see what faults it had?

Where I can find the compression issue video??

Hi Matt, is it possible for the scantool to show rpm even if there's a problem with the crank sensor itself, let's say it's on its way out?

Hi, I need your urgent help to diagnose and fix a crank no start on a 2004 Toyota RAV4 in Fiji Islands. After scanning with a Launch scanner I got the following codes : b1800, b1801, c0246, and c1244. Also note the battery charge light does not come on when ignition is turned on. What I also found out was the there was no continuity between pin 4 of DLC connector and the chasis ground on the right hand side kick panel ( white black stripe wire) however when I put a test lamp on Batt ( pin 16) an pin 4 (chasis ground) the the test lamp comes on. What could be the problem

Have you seen the fiat 2.4 with only an exhaust cam and the intake is solenoids? I think the cam was exhaust side for more computer control.

1:24:00 since continuity tests are not as good as testing under load would it be best to test these wires using a test light and jumping the other end to battery so if we see a nice bright bulb while loaded we have a better test this way instead of doing those unloaded resistance tests?maybe even step up the bulb wattage some?

Sir pls do explain the distributor with 7 wire in nissan..thank you so much..i have no spark issue..

Will a will a bad crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor (CKF) cause a crank yes but no start on a 2001 Honda CRV? Not the camshaft position sensor in the distributor, the sensor down with the timing belt. I have a mystery crank no start when it stalled half way to work. Original only code was P0108, Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Circuit High. I replaced the MAP sensor twice, 1 used, 1 new, no luck. I have spark on all 4 (same when swapped with 2 new and 1 used distributers, same issue). Plug wires ohm'd out correctly for length. Cleaned plugs, replaced plugs. Fuel pumps rapidly out of fuel rail inlet. All injectors pulse, removed them and they feed gas to a paper towel, BUT if i pour gas directly in the manifold, it will start and run like crap for about 10 seconds if I rapidly floor and release the throttle. Removed the valve cover gasket and checked timing belt all the way around Belt is good and intake and exhaust line up correctly. No missing teeth or damage. Was considering replacing the CKF sensor and a new timing belt since I would be there anyway.

I wish I could bring my van to you, Sir.

Hello I have a 2011 Buick LaCrosse CXS that will crank, but will not start and I was wondering is that got anything to do with the ground like the video I saw you do on the truck for the mechanics.

My truck cranks but foesnt start. Starts with the starting fluid and runs well after but if i shutoff, will need starting fluid again to start it... what to do?

The reason why they switching the ground is because they can use a simple N channel mosfet and switch that mosfet with signal of about 6 volts on the gate of that mosfer. The other way around to switch the 12 volt means they need 12 plus 6 volt which is 18 volt they have to generate specificly for only driving these mosfets. The could use a P channel mosfet but these are less efficient.

Oh ok im confuse when you test the injector to see if it was ground side or power side did you had your test light connected to ground or did you just backprobe it without connecting to ground and then the computer completed the ground ?

Hi mate you have replied about p0336 you said the pcm what is that please thanks 👍

can you put in a link for the Cam/crank lesson you talk about in this video. Thank you

Greetings to all, I seriously need your help, I have 2008 Nissan note, this start but unable to accelerate, when I press the accelerator Paddle it does respond, I've change the padle, the ECM and the throttle but it still won't work

I have an 02 Silverado which has a intermittent no start but starts on the 2nd sometimes 4th try I sometimes have to feather the gas peddle when starting so it’ll catch. I have no idea what this problem could be and it’s driving me crazy I have replaced pcv valve, fuel regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, purge valve, cleaned throttle body, and cleaned Maf sensor. All I have done is make noticeable change for the better of the vehicle but this intermittent no start is so random it happens cold start warm starts after reverse parking after driving all day and sitting a little awhile even sitting for a day and me just moving it back or forth 5feet and starting it back up. So I am at a loss and does it 2 to 4 times a week or sometimes goes days or weeks without doing it.

in how many instances does light on with power and light on with bad ground happen?

What state are you located in sir ? If I may ask ?

Nice diag, as usual. Is it possible that with no ignition and injectors firing during all that cranking that it was just cylinder wash in one or more of the cylinders or did this car turn out to have a real compression issue?

Hello, nice vid. I have a daihatsu sirion 2 with K3-VE engine and it stopped running all of a sudden. It cranks, but no start. I checked all the fuses/relays, they seem good. I checked the crankshaftsensor and it's giving me close to 2000 ohms. So that seems ok. I tested the harness with ignition switched on, no voltage. Any idea what that could be? I still have to check to camshaftsensor though. Regards

I love your video 1 million times better than scotty Kilmer click Bait video keep up the good work at least you understand car and how they work unlike other people on RU-vid

I have a 2010 Kia Rio, has power but will not say a word, I had a mechanic over today to replace the starter it still wouldn't start rechecked all the fuses even the relay switches is still won't say a word but it has power what could possibly be wrong

Long time viewer here, thanks for the content, but I'm wondering about some things. 24:30 you have your test light connected to the switched side of the injector, and the alligator clip of the test light to ground (not shown in your illustration). Aren't you turning on the injector now? Is flooding the cilinder not a problem? Also at 11:24, how much inrush current does that light bulb use, an amp? Isn't there a possibility of frying the pcm/a sensor this way?

Next time you leave the distributor plugged in on the power connector remove the 3 Bolts use to secure distributor to cylinder head with a 12 spanner. To diagnose coil turn the distributor cam by hand you will get spark that way.