Honda No Start? Old School Problem Shows Up!! 

😂😂😂 I should get a Columbo trench coat. Thanks for making me laugh & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

Shows that Kenny is either self taught or had a bad teacher. The modules and could are also a lot cheaper and very easy to replace. It's only about 5 screws. The only reason I would replace the dizzy is if it had oil inside it. IE internal seals leaking..

That job just cost someone a lot more than it needed too. And I do the same as you with the leads. And suggested it above.

My kid had a Nissan with an optical sensor inside. The oil seal leaked too much to just clean it, so we replaced the distributor. Later, I'd read where lots of owners drilled a small hole in the bottom of the cap and oil would drip out without affecting the sensor. I never got to try that free fix...

​@@robertbigler7743 I have a u13 Nissan with a similar problem I clean it every 12 months or so as the dizzy costs more than I paid for the car lol. Super reliable tho. (It did just shit an alternator tho) and 360,000 kms

I got the same problem from blowby. Need little hands to get to the bottom fastener. Oops got it. Hope I can get it back on. Lol! Oil in the distributor. Hope that's the problem. Intermittent start.

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧

All it takes to fix is some spray adhesive

Just more work as he said most caps have the firing order on them.

I'm glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧

Worse yet is un metered air.

We used to find these exact symptoms with Subaru engines, on those it turned out to be crank angle sensor. Literally 5 minutes and a $130 part and problem solved in the driveway without having to book it into the workshop. The service manager authorised a stock of about half a dozen to be available at all times so service advisors could do this. We charged about $20 to fit, even in front of the customer where they could see how easy the access was at that time. Many unhappy customers were turned around by this fix.

Ya my 93 Civic was similar ... on numerous occasions wouldn't start first thing in the morning, but after she started, she started fine for the rest of the day. So one morning I hooked up my timing light and noticed no spark ... this is an OBD1 critter. So I pulled out the Hayne's and ohm'd out components in distributor. Bad ignitor ... IIRC I also changed coil for shit's and grins😊

i’m having pretty much this exact problem but the car is stalling, i just replaced the ignition coil and it’s driving me nuts lol

@@josephsprinkle8783 Check spark once it dies to see if you're actually losing spark.

@@derekr3895 yes i verified tonight that once it does stall it’s losing spark, im guessing since it’s not ignition coil or cap and rotor it’s probably the igniter

That shop is backlogged... Plus he's going to leave and do his own thing soon

Old cars tend to do that... adhesive just wears out over the heat/humidity

Isn't the no #1 on the timing belt/chain end side?

​@@metzmatu8409 yes. Number 1 is at the front of the every engine. And on a four cyl number 4 is closest to the box. Always.... 🤦🏼‍♂️. The person above has no idea

@@Alberthoward3right9up So what I hear you saying, is that the timing belt on the engine shown in the video is on the driver's side? If so it would explain why the numbering in the K series was later switched..

Wait. Does that recall include a 1994 del sol si?

where did he buy the new one from? and what brand?

Check for spark first. If you have no spark change the distributor. If you have trouble go on Facebook Wrenching with Kenny. Input all the info about your vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. You can try our FB group, Backyard Mechanics (3.8K members) they can help too. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!

i’m having the same issue!

let me know when if you figure it out please 🙏i’m thinking maybe the distributor?

Yes, it sounds like its got a weak hole. Not unusual at all those miles.

should get a valve check/adjust. Honda says every 105,000 miles. lol. the old skool early 1980's ones were every 17,500 mile intervals. At least that way you'd remember you have non-hydraulic camshaft. lol. Prob a burnt exhaust valve. : l

Some manufacturers when through a phase when they used electronic timing based on the crank and cam sensors even though the old mechanical distributor was still being used. In that case they didn't need to accurately bolt the distributor into place using a timing light because the correction was done electronically by the PCM. My old 1998 Dodge Ram is like that. In this car we saw there was very little adjustment possible for bolting the distributor housing on. Controlling spark timing with electronics allows the PCM latitude to adjust timing on the fly based on transient factors like rpm, load, engine temp, knock sensors, etc. Any minor variance in how the housing is bolted on is easily corrected by the software.

@@spelunkerd I imagine you're right in this case. I wonder why Kenny didn't mention that.

Great question. With the key off and not in the ignition (I did take it out) , there is no power at all at the distributor. I should have pointed that out. Thanks for asking about it !

@@WrenchingWithKenny And the wrench falling/ moving around on the battery had me jumping in my seat. (yeah I know the positive was covered but krap happens sometimes)