My man, Revolver and Certainty will kill all cool season grasses. This is not good advice for the average Joe who knows nothing about herbicides. Then to turn around and suggest MSMA is beyond stupid. There are no circumstances that this product should ever be used in residential turf and people will watch this video and somehow get their hands on it. Finally, the crabgrass. Tenacity is a terrible suggestion to kill crabgrass and clover with. Multiple applications are needed to have any effect. Best practice for crab is to use Quinclorac and even better would be mixing in something like SpeedZone. Triclopyr for your cover. Lot of people going to listen to you on this platform. Be a better help to them.
@@pestandlawnginja watched it in it's entirety and still can't believe you're serious in the vid. You do slip in some caveats here and there to cover yourself, but again, to the average homeowner who doesn't understand what they are doing, their first knee jerk reaction is to do/buy what you're telling them. The fact that you're listing a link in the description to buy MSMA on Amazon is absolutely absurd. This product is 100% illegal for a homeowner to spray.
@@Matt-iw1pz I've taken some time to digest what you're saying. I do agree with you that as an educator my primary job is to keep people safe and also uphold the label and the law. Understanding that certain sprays can cause damage on certain grass types is a legitimate concern. I added additional disclaimers in the description of the video. Even before your comment, grass types for the specific herbicides were listed before the links in the video because I know how important that is. A disclaimer in the video was made very clear that you need to read the label and only use herbicides listed for use by specific grass types. I respect your passion for the situation and it's good to hear all arguments. I initially didn't like the way your comment was coming across. After chewing the fat a bit I can see you're a passionate person and made some valid points that I can respect. With that said an edit has been made to remove the mention of said product to help clear up any confusions.
Video edited well and the disclaimer for msma that was added in place of the paid link was the right thing to do. I want to see more education in the industry and it starts at the home owner level which I'm guessing makes up the majority or your viewers but anyhow good job over all 👏
I recall previous videos discussing weed ID and treatments. It’s your excitement and personality that keeps me watching. Time for collaboration video with someone. Don’t know who but someone. If you wish to visit the Pinehurst area you can hang and play on my plot. I’m a retired chef, hint hint. Thanks Ginga
After 2yrs i finally used up my first bottle of Tenacity. I went and reordered from amazon and was surprised the newer bottles no longer come with the syringe but instead of the squeeze bottle to measure into a smaller reservoir and then dispense. Its convenient but at the same time Im having to measure have a gallon more than the product label rate because it sticks to the inside of the bottle and cant get 100% of it you measure. Just a fun story i thought Id share. Your videos have always been great and has made my lawn looking great over the years with your knowledge. Thank you Ginja keep it up!
Bought new property 3 years ago, thought I had crab grass. Lawn Ginja helped me identify it as dallis grass, now I only have 2 small patches left to eliminate from an entire acre of it. #slayed, thanks lawn Ginja
Thanks for this! Wasn't fooled but had no idea what I was fighting since nobody takes the time to tell you how to identify what you're dealing with. If you've got more info on IDing grass and weed types, I'd love to see it!
Super confusing between the two for sure. Also, shouldn't use Tenacity on Bermuda, but Quinclorac works great. Thanks for helping with the identification. 👊
I was fooled and have spent close to $300 on crabgrass killer and hours of labor that wasn’t working because it actually is dallis grass seed heads and leaves so thanks for helping me to identify correctly
Thank you for this video. I have a grass that it grows straight up and has a very deep taproot (it may also have rhizomes) because I can dig it up and a week later it is back. This is in my garden and flower beds. If it is in my lawn I guess I don’t notice it.
a big invader in central NY is Nutsedge grass....bright green shoots that grow taller than the perennial rye and pop up all over the yard...Tenacity works best for it but it is so hardy year after year....crab grass has been reduced with Tenacity too....great video Ginga
SO GLAD you mention Methylated seed oil. I have this & using it as my surfactant on all my chemicals (Halo 75 recently) for NutSedge control. Hearing you, it doesn't some like best practice. This stuff is potent!
I was fooled. Guess the good news I finally got my actual crabgrass controlled thru pre emergents and post emergents...but now I have Dallasgrass. Thanks for the info.
I was fooled! Never heard of orchard grass or Dallas grass before. Learn something new every time I watch your channel. On one hand there's a little relief... But then on the other the solutions for Dallas and orchard Grass are not exactly a cheery thought.
Got this problem, thanks for posting that. I wish I had let mine go for a month to see the seed heads to make sure. My "Picture This" app identified a lot of mine as Dallisgrass (it's been in the lawn for months). Someone in a forum posted pictures of whitened Dallisgrass that they used "Roundup for Lawns Crabgrass Destroyer1" on, which does list controlling Dallisgrass after a second app. Herbicide is 0.0092% Topramezone, results are like Tenacity, turns it white. A lot of it looks like it's dead now after my second app. I also have some Bermuda creepin in from a neighbors smorgasbord, I sprayed it and it's turned white and looks like it's gonna be toast. Thanks again for your great content...
Ginja...the reason i am here is to possibly catch a glimpse of you interacting with your beautiful children and to see if Big Headed Dog #2 Big Rolls Royce will make an appearance. I am in the South so our grass and seasons are different. I still have learned from you however. But mostly i enjoy Family Dad Ginja most of all!!
I put quinclorax early this year, followed vy tenacity two wks ago, that's is was I learned watching your videos since 2021. Also, I have to put seeds as I have a ho grrass there for 3-4 yeats after renos at my house. My questions: i bought scott seeds and read label where kentucky blue grass are only 4% of the seeds in the bag. I chk university of colorado to chk why I have a mix of fescue, ryegrass, etc in my bag and is it ok to put on my lawn after usibg 2 pre emergents killers grass for crabgrass. University wrote no new seeds for one year after using one of the products I used. I add surfactant and blue color with renacity and quinclorax. I am from north of NY.
Do NOT use Tenacity in Zoysia. I will kill it. Drive, on the other hand works great on crabgrass. Still need a Zoysia safe goosegrass killer. Any suggestions?
I love ur channel, really helpful information for new homeowners like me. My front yard had nice grass but this year I saw something like crabgrass has grown recently and spreading and I live in Chicago area so my last week my husband used spreader and spreaded turf seeds he got from Costco but lawn has small yellow patches now so we are so confused. Please tell me if we need to wait winter to get over and use any preemergent next year or we shud use something now to get rid of crabgrass spreading over. Please reply.
Hard to say. Yellow patches…. If they were the color of the seed that germinated that would make sense. You could also look at a fungus called dollar spot to see if that matches as well.
I mostly have my crabgrass under control. I still get some occasionally where the lawn meets the curb/driveway, and I'll rarely find a piece coming up in the middle of the lawn, but I've gotten to the point now where I'll see a sprout while I'm mowing and I'll stop and pull it out on the spot. I have some dallisgrass encroaching from an adjacent empty lot, but I've found a combo that _seems_ to be having a good (negative) effect on it. My usual combo is Tenacity (for crabgrass and clover) 2-4-D (for violets) and Sedgender (for nut sedge) with a non ionic surfactant (all at the label rates) and that generally takes care of my most common weeds. I had a little leftover and decided to spray some on the dallisgrass that is encroaching and I'm seeing the "suppression" you're talking about. It doesn't kill it (at least with one application) but you can tell it ain't happy, and I think with weekly or semi-weekly treatments I'll eventually get the better of it. Same goes for the violets. They typically don't die after one application. But as my granddad used to say, you can pester just about anything to death if you're persistent. Hopefully the weather will cooperate better next year and I can get my preemergent out in the spring. This year we went from cold, straight to murderous heat, and I didn't want to stress the lawn any more than it already was. I've got one more grassy weed I'm still trying to identify, but I haven't had any luck yet. It grows faster than the rest of the lawn but it isn't a sedge. It's a paler green and the blades are very limp. After it gets more than about two or three inches tall it just flops over. It doesn't have any discernable bulb so it's not wild onion/garlic. So far I've not had any luck with my usual herbicide combo, but I have a few new ones to try so hopefully I'll get it under control. As always, Thanks for all of the great content!
@@pestandlawnginja UPDATE! So I identified the troublesome grassy weed from the previous post and I figured out where it came from... Evidently when I bought my "cheap" topsoil for my leveling project, I got a bunch of dirt full of goosegrass seed. Everywhere I placed that dirt for leveling, I ended up with goosegrass. It was tough to identify at first because all of the surrounding grass kinda forced the goosgrass to grow more vertical than most of the pictures I've seen but once I saw some of it growing flat it was an easy ID. So after watching a video from Jason over at Lawn Care Life (warm season turf guy) he suggested a couple of warms season products in one of his videos, and both had the active ingredient of sulfentrazone. So I started looking for cool season products with sulfentrazone and stumbled across T-Zone SE. That stuff is AWESOME! It did a pretty good number on most of my goosegrass but some of it was so mature it needed a 2nd application. That's where I decided to really put the spurs to it and went with a combo of T-Zone SE, mesotrione and quinclorac (with a splash of surfactant) and that was the last of the goosegrass. So far that combo has worked on every weed I've encountered in my lawn, except for the clumping tall fescue which I'm going to dig out soon enough. (though I suspect some of it may be dallisgrass so I'm going to try spraying that too) Just put some ironite down to make the neighbors jealous. :D Thanks for all of your guidance!
Hi Ninja great video. There was a short bit where you put Dallisgrass and Crb next to each other, looks like on the sidewalk. It would be nice to show all three all together. Question Would a good pre emergent like pro-diamine help prevent Dallis and Orchard? Thanks for all your videos! And that backpack sprayer is the bomb!
pre emergents help. they will never be 100%. timing is everything. they need to go down before the ground temps hit 55 degrees F. I'm addicted to the flowzones LOL
What ended up being green foxtail seems like crabgrass but there were two traits to it that made me suspicious that it was not crabgrass: № 1: I don't see any purple in the stands close to the crown that crabgrass usually displays; № 2: the grass has an opportunity to grow a horizontally but it's not: is preferring to grow straight to the sky. I use the "Picture This" application on my cellular phone and this is what the application identified the plant as.
This is an ignorant question but can orchard grass spread from cut grass clippings? I have a lot of orchard grass in my fescue lawn and just want to make sure I am not spreading it by mowing over it.
I always come back to your videos for reference but I'm in a battle with puncture vine, would you happen to know of any treatment before I set my lawn on fire
Thanks! Apparently I have dallas grass and orchard grass... never knew those were a thing! I always assumed it was crab grass - but my treatment has been the same anyway... just pull em out!
Love your videos. In Tennessee, Bermuda is invasive in my K blue/T Fescue lawn and Crabgrass and Dallisgrass are a nuisance. This video seemed to hint that you can control dallisgrass but you only mention digging it out as effective. I’ve worked with both tenacity and xlr8 as recommended for crabgrass and clover and they work great. Do you have any experience with PYLEX?
Pylex was / is expensive and i didn't buy it. the problem with most products that suggest control of different grasses is they are not rated for use on kentucky bluegrass.
Now that Winter is here (a week before Christmas in the PacificNW (Seattle)); should I bother with trying to spray anything? I have about an acre of grass (and everything else) - no way I am going to try to dig out anything ;-)
few things that can be done to prevent orchard grass. 1. be religious on your use of pre emergets, spring and fall. 2. consider dethatching monthly with a dethatching device like the sun joe dethatcher. scoring the ground regularly will help prevent germination. if you are in peak germination season when ground temps are around 50 to 60 degrees F i would do it weekly or every other week. 3. pick them out by hand fast. What I do in crisis situations is pick 5 to 10 everytime i leave the front or back door. becomes a habbit. you don't get to frustrated with this method if you can just leave it after you pick the set required amounts.
I find tenacity tricky to use. The first time I applied it, it stunted the growth of the crabgrass but didn't kill it. The second time I went a little heavier, and both the crabgrass and the surrounding KB died...
Calibration can be tough to figure out. Spray too fast and it doesn’t kill the weed. Spray to slow and kills the grass. Other factors hit as well, hot outside and the weeds aren’t taking it in as much, low n levels etc.
unfortunately the sprays on the market only off supression. meaning its not going to kill the plant completely. the benefit is if you spray it early enough onto the plant it has a high chance of not going to seed. which in turn helps kill the cycle.
Am i crazy or did you not show the orchard grass heads? I just saw dallas and crabgrass. Ive been spraying tenacity every 2 weeks and my "crabgrass" isnbt getting touched. I believe i have orchard grass but would love to be sure
OK Ginga after 6 months off and a month back I was really hoping for a review on how the Brarenbrug’s Regenerating Perennial Ryegrass and is it worth my coin.
It would appear that I spent my afternoon, in 100 degree windy heat (I'm up in Draper!) spraying Tenacity on what I thought was crap grass. Turns out I have orchard grass. I'll let you know if it works! 😱🤦♂️🤞
Now do quackgrass 😄 Unless I let the weeds grow I can't tell at first glance what's quack or crabgrass. I mechanically control what I have the energy to pull then hit the rest with Tenacity. Japanese stiltgrass and nimblewill are the new banes of my lawn care existence here in the Mid-Atlantic.
Very tough weeds. I believe nimble will is on the list of targeted weeds on tenacity and it works well. As for quackgrass. Fusillade ii has it listed for control. Keep in mind these sprays are specific for use on certain grass species.
depends on what species of grass you have. it can be very frustrating but there are not a lot of products on the market for dallisgrass. products are listed in the description of the video.
Ginga, I'm in Canada so we aren't able to use alot of pesticides, but Ive had patches of clover that I can't get rid of for the past few years that have turned into pineapple weed. What's the best course for getting rid of them? Generally for dandelions I'm able to use a few doses of Scott's weed be gone and it takes care of them, but it doesn't do anything for the clover
There’s one I found on the internet that claims control of clover and doesn’t harm the grass called A.D.I.O.S No clue how well it works but maybe worth a try
Great stuff as usual. I do have dallisgrass and I pull it out and reseed. Pulling isn’t easy because the root go all over the place so you have to get the roots out if you don’t want to see the grass reappear. Thanks buddy!
I overseed tall fescue last fall and apparently I have a dallisgrass as well. Just purchased this house. I didn't hear a treatment to get rid of it. Is my only option to dug it up? I'd rather get started on digging it up than try to find a killer for this evil perennial on the internet. Help!! I getting obsessed about it.
I love rye if you can keep it watered. its very easy to care for, you can mow it shorter and its soo soft. all around I prefer it. but, its more sensitive on watering directly. when it dies though its really easy to plant more. The cold weather over the winter won't effect it any different than the tttf in my opinion.
This September I am going to do an over seeding. I would love to go with KBG but have not had the greatest luck with overseesding due to the sprout and pout phase. After seeing your video on the RPR I am thinking that route. Has the RPR spread as advertised?
@@pestandlawnginja awesome! I may go that route. I love KBG but doing over seeding with it has been difficult due to the established grass growing faster. Although I could just grow KBG plugs and then plant those strategically.
I thought I had crabgrass but I think I was fooled? Can you go over Johnson grass? The grass I have in NE Montana doesn’t look like either one of those.
@@pestandlawnginja thanks for the response. I have had a big amount of germination this spring/early summer I am preparing for top dressing and overseed this fall.
@@pestandlawnginja Hey one other question for you- I used your link to buy a MySoil test and just got the results back. It said I was low in nitrogen, potassium and most micronutrients. It also said my pH was a little high. So the question is- Can I apply macronutrients (N & K), micronutrients and elemental sulfur all at the same time or is it best to space out those applications individually? I lied, another quick question- How about you just expand your service area a little bit to cover Lake Point/ Stansbury Park?! I’d much rather just pay you guys to do this, plus it’s growing like crazy out here! I guess that was more of a suggestion than a question but still, think about it!
@@stevecapps8561 you can apply all at the same time! no issues. I wouldn't worry about your ph being a little high. anything 7.3 and below is perfect. allows ease of use to apply fertilizer.
Hi! I'm in Provo and have a really trashed lawn that I'd like to get back in shape. Is it too late to spray weeds and still have time to aerate and overseed this year? Any chance you're available for a job like that? It's my front yard, and it's not more than 1000 sq ft. If so, how can I contact you?
Listed for improved control when combined with 32 oz per acre of Triclopyr Ester with two apps 3 weeks apart. Always read the full lable everytime before Appling anything and don't just go off what you hear online even the "pros"
Your lawn is Rolls Royce approved as for weeds if tenacity won't kill it I go full on GINGA , I break out the propane powered weed torch and smoke em , like you often say grass seed is cheap 😂😂🤗👍
Great video, I need help with Bermuda grass, I am in Utah, seeded 14k sqf last spring. I have many areas of Bermuda I am trying to control. I am using a mix of tenacity, Aclaim Extra and trichlopyr Esther with some spreader sticker. Last fall of the tenacity seemed to be turning the Bermuda white but not quite killing it, I added the other products to try and get even better control now it doesn’t seem to be turning the Bermuda white anymore not sure if my tenacity is old. Can you make a video about Bermuda? Can I hire you to pay me a visit in Utah?
@@Bob46374 I am in kaysville, I have it sprinkled through my lawn but it’s starting to spread and I really want to eliminate it. Not sure how I got it, I did haul in a lot of topsoil and then I seeded last May with seed from J&J and topped it with Pete Moss.
Hey James. My comments are crazy backed up. Social media is the best way to get ahold of me. Unfortunately there’s no clear spray that will leave bluegrass alone and kill Bermuda. There’s a few methods but we’d be using sprays that will harm your desired grasses
Ginja, appreciate the time, effort and expertise that goes into your content. An older video of yours taught me that I have Dallis grass and not crabgrass. I saw the original (prior to fussing from one commenter) version of this video and have some Drexel MSMA 6 Plus on the way now to take out my Dallis grass. Simple question. How to best spray it? Just on the center/middle of the Dallis grass or coat every inch of it? I have a mixed mess of a yard with mostly Bermuda in the front. Hodge podge on the sides and back. Thus, I'm not terribly concerned about grass adjacent to the Dallis grass getting damaged. My chemical service company is due to aerate and seed in the next couple of weeks and they obviously don't have a treatment for Dallis grass. I mow my own. In north central North Carolina here.
Hey Eric! I can't recommend msma considering the restraints on the label. Calibration is king. The label will dictate the spray rates and they are commonly done by placing a specific amount of oz in 1 gallon of water to be placed over 1000 sqft. spot spraying is best when it comes to hitting hard to do weeds such as the ones mentioned above. I have a backpack spray calibration videos that will help you dial it all in! Best of luck.
@@pestandlawnginja Thanks for your prompt response and feedback, Ginja. I neglected to say that I will not be treating the entire surface of my yard, but rather spot treating the Dallis grass since it is isolated to specific areas and so easily identified. I always read labels and follow directions though, legit, so I'll be sure to follow all mixing instructions and safety precautions documented on the label.
In Iowa I've tried several times using tenacity with a non-ionic surfactant and really was not satisfied with any of the results. Does it require quite a bit of moisture or rain? I may have Johnson grass, tall fescue or quackgrass. I need to get them identified for sure.
its most likely the targeted grass isn't what we think it is. you can always move to the drive xlr8 combo with mso. other than that i recommend pushing a fertilizer application 3 days before your herbicide app. or you can mix a little urea in the spray can your using to force the uptake of the fertilizer.
Most likely not. I can’t be 100% in any situation since I wasn’t there but moody rat traps are bait oriented with the side effects coming from consuming the bait
@@pestandlawnginja yes i did and i got a answer from the company that made the boxes NOMOR was their company name And they asked an technician and said i would be fine and that there were no dangers if touched the box
