My current situation and tries of fixing this problem are absolutely IDENTICAL!!!! I’m going to try your attempt which finally worked. Thank you for posting your video. I’m a single mother to a disabled son. Most issues that occur, I have to solve on my own. ❤️❤️❤️
Doesn't make sense " I'm going to try your attempt that finally worked " If you was going to try it then you had not done it yet so I think you're telling porkies
Thank you for your very informational video. You show all possibilities of removing a seized lug nut and told us what NOT to do as well. Thank you, Sir! ❤
Very useful info, appreciate taking the time to explain it through fully and the theory behind it, it really helps understand the whole picture. Do not mind the commenters that said you chated too much, you did not, understanding the science behind is what matters, not finding a quick fix you won’t be able to apply without the video the next time.
Hi, Cuskit. Yup frozen commercial truck lug nuts can be extremely tough to break loose. I bought a highly neglected '53 International COE flatbed hay hauler. It probably sat in a field for several decades rusting. I knew that when it came time to get into the wheels and brakes I would have to fight the lug nuts. Well, I ran across a $45 torque multiplier on Amazon and this thing is amazing. It's an 1:65 gear reduction socket driver. The nuts broke free with hardly any effort. Then I placed a torque wrench on the handle drive side and found out that I was only applying 15ft-lbs of force to break the rest! When I had to break down the rear dual BUDDs again it was almost effortless. The torch, tighten/loosen, or 6' cheater pipe tricks are no longer needed. I highly recommend this tool as must have if you need to change a truck tire yourself again.
Don't mind all the kids with negative comment ,it's your video and idiots are complain . Half these shade tree mechanic can barely hold a wrench but thinks they're
Here’s a man that will tell you how to build a clock if you ask him what time it is! Already snapped the factory lug wrench on it hit it with PB blast before i did anything. Just checking to see if heat was safe that close to aluminum. Thanks for the reinforcement.
I have the same problem with the same vehicle. 1995 Fuso Motorhome. Was about to try a persuader pipe on the breaker bar. Now going for penetrating fluid for a few days. Didn’t know about lefty tighty - righty loosy! Great review. Thanks 🙏🏼
Me neither! I loosen the torque on the right wheels and then stood on the snipe for the left side, I bent the wrench. I knew then I needed help and someone asked me if they are left hand and I laughed because I already had the right side loosen. Not sure if I’ll ever get these off now :(
@@tysonristau4995 I got my broke by my mechanic. The left side of the vehicle is definitely left had tighten ! He used an impact wrench. I since bought one . Good luck.
Have a similar problem with tires put on no more than 4 months ago on a lady friends Winnebago...I attempted to replace the air bags in the back, have to pull a tire or rack it and no one seems to have a rack near...All away around the moron with the air wrench over torqued the lug nuts....Nothing would give...She's taking it to the mechanics shop where she bought the tires and the owners grandson did the torquing...He's going to get an ear full...120 ft lbs max is all it takes...I can only imagine the Ft lbs on yours...Thanks for the video...Chrysler did the left handed threads on the driver side too...Not the passenger side though...They also were dealers for Mitsubishi...Thanks fir the video...I feel better.
I have 3 wheels that won't budge. First thing I did was spray the lug nuts. Put the socket on and hit it with hammer. The other three lugs refuse to budge. The person that uses a impact to put a wheel on. Should have the impact used on their nut sac. Just get a skinny socket and place it on the impact. Place socket on nut sack and use it full blast foward and reverse. I even used a lose hitch and the lugs didn't budge. The hitch was a good 30 lbs. The only thing I got was a pulled back. There's no excuse for this. One bit!
Yes, we have mostly over achievers when it comes to putting on wheels, it requires a air regulator and a torque wrench and maybe a torque stick and starting at 90psi and working your way up until nothing moves and maybe another 5psi for safety and and then do this every now and then or when you change anything like a new socket or impact or hose etc.
I had a shop owner bring this up. He said his customer accused him of overtightening in his haste with the shop lug nut gun. Our shop foreman ran tests comparing the boss's actions to a torque wrench and a second torque wrench from a younger guy who had a newly calibrated one. It all added up to the boss's actions were actually less than maximum spec. Measured in foot pounds of torque. The situation there was a set of lugs that took additional partial turn using a calibrated torque wrench. What was happening was between the wheel seat and the tapered lug seat in each hole. After a long time, in our seaside climate, it took additional breakaway force given all at once, using a longer handle on the breaker bar, to free them. The customer observed and kept silent till the end. The last thing he said was, these are my first set of wheels and lugs of this type. They are different. I can see that now. He took the boss out for lunch or something to smooth things over. We all learned something. Since then, a "Torque Stick" limiting tool was brought to our attention by the tool truck. This was ages ago. It is to avoid all this time we spent , "Re-making" a customer. The boss stood by his thirty years of using a C/P long shaft tire gun. He bought us new impact guns for this and set them up and checked them. We decided to follow that with the use of torque wrenches and noting our wrench and setting on each cars paperwork. White lithium on the seat of certain wheels was tested next. Our shop foreman did the procedure and rechecked those cars after a time to verify them. He changed our policy, in those years, long ago. Hope this may help. Just re-check them after driving. Keep clam.
John Townley, yes, I purchased a 1989 vehicle in October of 1988. If you never noticed, it is commonplace for many new model year vehicles to be released months prior to the actual year of that particular vehicle.
Mr cuskit I want to thank thank you very much for putting out the video on the Mitsubishi you saved my life you struggle for one week I've been struggling for a whole month for starters there was no money I tried every tool you can think of just like you until I saw your video with the porch method I was able to save my Isuzu thanks to you my friend oh yeah and that whole thing about the counterclockwise that b******* really blew my mind thanks again I would send you money but that wouldn't be ethical
Late reply to you but thanks ever so much for the kind words! If my video helped you then I feel good. And no, please don't ever think of sending money - I'd send it right back, your nice response is all the payment I ever need!
I’m just here to pretend to my husband I can help him with our stupid Durango ....lol . I love watching this guy , it’s like being with my dad in his garage ( also me pretending I’m helping ;)sounds just like him “ aww to hell with it “ lmao !!!
It’s a tuff call.. I’ve come in with greasy fingers working a keyboard waiting ... for some RU-vid how-to to get to the point! But when leisurely watching, as I just did, I enjoyed the ride..
So, to make a long story short, he used mechanical advantage. Happy to hear it worked out for him. Knowing my luck, if I jumped on that bar, it would have given all at once, and I would have jammed my back.
I’ve just found your videos and just wanted to let you know how informative they have been and helped me with how I approach my woodwork. I have enjoyed your videos and love your work.
Good luck - my best advice is get a 'torque converter'. I found out about those afterwards and have since purchased one. Cakewalk! The converter turns those lugnuts loose so easy I can't believe I'd never heard of them before.! Look into one my friend - I got mine on Amazon Prime. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Garrett - that would be the perfect solution for sure. Just that they are too expensive for me to justify that price for a tool I'd use probably once. Hey, at almost 70 years old I gotta pull in the reins of spending, but were I twenty years younger I'd buy one in a heartbeat. Only regret is not buying a larger impact when I dropped my dime on that 1/2" model. Thanks for the input!
I own trucks that size and bigger two things the gun he used is not a truck gun you need a heavy duty air gun second this is important put oil on the treads before you tighten them trust me it prevents rust and the nuts from seizing. You may think the oil will evaporate it doesn’t I don’t care how long the lugs are on the oil stays on the tread don’t use grease it collects dirt
Anti-seize on the stud threads will help you in the future. Also some fluid film corrosion inhibitor sprayed on the backs of the rim mating surface helps cut down rust between the rim and the drums/mounting flange as well. Torque to spec, don't over do it.
MY man ! My son bought used car. Lugs are SO tight it's WOW breaking my sockets. Now to see if i can do this w/o F'ing up the finish on Alum wheels. I'm thinking making a sleeve from old tin can.
Like John, been there a few times myself. I've bent the long bar connected to the socket. Good vid. Did you make sure to grease the threads when you put the tire back on?
Funny, as most literature and engineers frown on lube/antiseize on tire studs.... but I even do it on all my vehicles very sparingly and NEVER had a nut back off... (live in a salty climate near the ocean). Did this after I snapped a few studs trying everything in the book...
I imagine the Locktite is for the rear connection into the hub to keep the stud from free spinning and the copper paste you use along the front to avoid the nut from ceasing overtime. I've got the problem in one of 6 is free spinning. Lost grip in the back where it connects into the hub.
I've sheared bolts off in the past using the breaker bar and pipe, that's why I used it as a last resort. In retrospect though - it should have been my first choice! Thanks for the input. mike
A Milwaukee 2867 and an overnight soak with Kroil would have ate that nut for breakfast. Why are you tightening with an impact, use a torque wrench and anti-sieze! The reason you couldn't get those bolts off is likely because you are using an impact to fasten them, and most impacts have more torque on reverse mode than regular mode.
Thanks for the comment, sorry for the late reply. That air wrench is not really powerful enough to torque those nuts, off camera I did use my torque wrench to set the lugs, and yes, I also applied anti-seize to each stud. Have a nice day Nytron!
You mention not getting the nuts cherry red for fear of destroying the temper, of the nut, I presume? Why not and just replace the nuts afterwards. Maybe a bit wasteful, but it seems better than spending hours or days trying to remove them.
Some heat, penetrating oil, couple raps with 16oz pall peen hammer. Repeat if necessary. After 3-4 tries, cut the bastard off and replace stud. It's likely totally hosed anyway. Use anti-seize on all wheel studs.
front lug nuts are seized and it's a bad bad time messing with this...thanks for the advice I'll try a torch and hammer...my impact is too weak...the shop must have put them on with a big freaking impact
If they were installed by a professional shop, regardless of the size impact they should still have only torqued it to the right specs. But yea, my 1/2" impact was also too weak. I've just pulled all six wheels last week as part of my 'new' routine maintenance. The 1/2" impact worked just fine this time, so I'm assuming using anti-seize plus removing them at least once a year will prevent this from happening again. Thanks for your input!
I'm a commercial tire technician. I do this all day long. Soon as you held up the gun you were going to use I stop the video. You either need a three-quarter inch gun with some bag behind it. Not an old sloppy one period or a 1 inch Drive Impact gun. The proper torque is 380 ft lb. Then you picked up that breaker bar period or so-called breaker bar. Thing was so short and and puny. The problem there that you had is you had no impact. If you had somebody tap on the socket with a hammer as you were trying to apply force on that short little puny breaker bar. You may have had better results. If it's been put on with impact it's got to come off with impact. And never ever ever ever use never seize.
I appreciate your comments, but note that you have the proper tools for your occupation. I'm a woodworker - no need for a larger gun than the one I used in this video. Just as I'm sure if you do hobby woodworking, you don't have a $60K wide belt sander, nor a $45K sliding table saw such as in my shop. I totally understand your better gun would have done the job, sure, but you use it daily. That gun does all I need, as to the tire, that's a once every five to ten years maybe. Thank you for your input!
What kind of breaker bar did you use? I one time used a 1/2 inch breaker bar that was about 18 inches long and used about a 4 foot pipe as the cheater bar with it. Result? My breaker bar BROKE. The head of it broke from the bar.
Thanks for viewing, and to tell you the truth, I had seen elsewhere about these. I had never heard of them before so I bought this one: XtremepowerUS Torque Multiplier Wrench w/8pc Socket Set. You are absolutely right - they work great! Thanks for mentioning it, have a nice day!
cuskit's metallic sawdust You’re welcome! One bad thing about them is that, if a nut is completely seized and you use the torque multiplier, it will break the stud. But I think that’s better than having a rounded nut. Replacing a stud is easier that battling with a rounded nut.
Thanks for viewing artur, but this post is about HD Commercial vehicles with very large lug nuts @1-1/2" or more. Passenger cars have much smaller lugs that are usually removed more easily with a regular impact wrench.
Odds are the problem was created by using an impact wrench and over torquing the lug nuts. Get yourself a torque wrench and torque to manufacturers recommendation and you'll never have this problem again.
Thanks for the reply R. Duane! Those lugs were originally torqued, I do have a good torque wrench (actually a few). The problem was they were just left on for way too many years and corrosion had set in. I now annually spin them loose and then torque back tight. No more issues once I changed that tire and cleaned up the lug threads and nuts. All six tires now come on and off easily. I 'went to school' on this one! Have a nice day my friend, lots of great advice here!
Breaker bar... no ,heat.... no ,, grind a flat, hammer and blunt chisel it round .....no!! beaten and bloody hands .....yes. I'm trying the scaffold pole today. wish id done it yesterday
No, I did turn it the correct way, I believe I even pointed out in the video that the 'L' meant left. Heck - just look at the threads and you can see which direction to turn. Thanks for viewing!
i have never seen any difference in heating just the nut or the whole damn stud using either the mapp gas or oxy-acet.. but i do think i would have tried a pipe on the breaker bar 2nd
I'm not sure, it has an adjustment knob that has numbers indexed from 1-8. I don't know how they related to torque. But at the highest setting (8) it was still too weak. Thanks for viewing!
That impact looks like my hf that I've had for almost 20 yrs. It only does 250ft lbs. It won't break an unsiezed lug nut. I have to use a breaker bar first. I didn't realize how weak it is until I used it. I think I paid $20 for it. I've been meaning to buy a better one but only think about it when I need it. Even though its puney I still hold on to it, at least to get the nuts on quickly.
Ive always been hesitant to put antiseize on lug nuts.. seen way too many wheels just fall the fuck off just fron loose nuts and evrn if you catch it before it falls off they usually screw all the threads up from the wheel rubbing..
Actually, that socket has walls over 5/16" thick, I've used that for over 40 years with nary a crack. It is HD, American USA Made in Connecticut, a 3/4" drive on it and I'd put it up against just about any of the imported (which is mostly sold today) impact sockets around. When you get up into the 3/4" drive in those good ol' USA manufactured plants of the 60's, you've got about the best you're gonna get. Now obviously I would not put it on one of those huge 1" drive pneumatic wrenches with an adapter down to the 3/4", but I'm going the other way - 1/2" drive wrench adapted up to 3/4". Think I'm safe... Bottom line - you are right - safety first. Just that my impact drive sockets only go up to 1-1/4" and these need a 1-1/2". Thanks for watching!
Yes, a TM would easily have done it. I’ve actually purchased one after that incident, used it a couple times and I have to say - they are awesome! Thanks for your input! 😊
In NJ we have self-inspection on any truck over 10,000lb GVW. We're required to check the vehicle and keep a log every time it leaves the shop (which is very infrequent, only 65K miles since 1988). Question - on your state inspections, due they pull the wheels off? What is the purpose of that, to check the brake pads? Following your advice I'm adding removing all six wheels once a year as a matter of routine inspection. Thanks for the heads up!
Kenni, thanks for stopping in. I did coat the lugs with "Never-Seize" before reassembly. As for the brakes - at only 62K miles, the pads still have half their life to go. These trucks have engine vacuum brake assist - it's controlled by a lever on the steering column. When turned on (most of the time), every time you let off the gas the engine vacuum begins to slow down the truck - increasing the life of your brake pads significantly. Yes, it does hurt fuel mileage a bit, but these turbo diesels are very miserly with fuel so that's no issue.
Get a torque multiplier, it works quite well with even tractor trailer wheels, and is available for low cost. It uses gearing for a 58:1 mechanical advantage, so you can apply tremendous torque even with a small wrench. It's good for these wheels with the exposed lug nuts, where they're not recessed like car wheels, because it uses an adjacent lug nut as a brace to apply the force.
@@dtrrtd774 Several folks also mentioned a TM, I have now purchased on and it is awesome! Wish I had it first, but then I'd never have put up this video and heard from all you great subscribers! Thanks DTR RTD! Just subscribed to your channel, loved the Can Am demo day video!
If you had read further down in the comments, you would have seen I did check it with a torque wrench. Thanks for commenting, I appreciate your patronage!
That pipe I used is 5/16" - that one will not break - you'd shear the hub nut first. But yes, I've bent smaller pipe in the past on other jobs... Thanks for viewing! :-)
Rust is like a weld. The bolt is fucking nearly impossible to remove without some serious flame action. I can see why the breaker bar broke. Fuck rust man! :c
Thanks for the tip, I jumped over to your channel to see how a master puts out a great video, but guess what? Another guy figures he can tell everybody how to produce a video, but does squat for himself. By the way, we have a mix of sun and clouds, cool winds out of the south, precipitation is 30% and it looks like rain tomorrow. Bring your umbrella! Thanks for stopping in!
Just FYI Make sure that you always tighten the lug nuts to manufacture specs. There is such a thing as overnighting them which could be both a safety hazard and having to repeat the whole processes you just went through. Ex.) When i used to work at a tire shop most truck specs were at most 35-45 foot pounds.
Many vehicles are released in the fall of the year before date of release. Sept-Dec most vehicles are introduced and on the lots even though they are dated the following year. Common knowledge... My truck is a 1989 Model year, but it was, built in Sept/1988. I took delivery in Nov/1988.
Just now seeing your reply - yes, I did install all new tires. Should now be good for another 20 years, or, whatever time I have left at 71 years old this November.! LOL! Thanks for viewing, commenting and the useful advice. I took it to heart and spent the money and very much appreciate all like yourself who post positive comments.
Thanks for that advice. My 6,800 sq. ft. shop has over 1.5 million $$ worth of wood working machines and tools, including many metal working machines. But when it comes to mechanics tools, I mostly have good USA made. This impact wrench (which is definitely not worn out, just underpowered for this task) has done everything I need it for across 5 decades, kept in good shape, oiled routinely. Were I a full time mechanic that needed a larger (spelled more expensive) impact wrench I'd for sure buy one. Hey, how about we compare all my tools against yours? You can see many of my machines and tools in my videos. Just about every machine is made in USA, Germany or Italy: the best in the business. And most of my hand power tools are USA made (including that 'weak & worn out impact'. No need to preach tool quality to me. I went to your channel to see your shop and the tools you own. Guess what? Yea, just like I thought... LOL!
Santomalverde: sorry about the 'sharp tone' of my reply. I realize after re-reading your post you were merely pointing out the obvious. I apologize my good sir! I have to learn to 'be cool' sometimes. Yes, I appreciate your comment and observation.
I just saw u had replied to my original comment... Hey I had a 10yr old Ingersoll Rand impact and after purchasing a newer one like 7 yrs ago that new one had like twice as power as my older impact. Now we got cordless brushless impact wrenches that are more powerful than my 1100ft lb air impact wrench. I work at a diesel fleet shop in USA and I don't make videos of the work I do. Sorry for that
@@javiers101 Yes, I've seen those new cordless brushless impacts (Milwaukee has an awesome one). Love to have one, but at 70 years old, I'm pretty much done buying anything but the absolute necessary tools. After that fiasco somebody here mentioned about torque multipliers, I had never heard known about those and picked one up on Amazon (about $80) and that's an absolute beast! No problem at all getting off a seized lug with that tool. Hey, you have a nice holiday, thanks again for your input!
Did you even watch this video? The whole thing was about how to break loose 'frozen' lug nuts! Unless you're looking for nuts that are actually frozen (like in ice cubes) in which case I have no idea how to help you...
Well then, just skip over the parts you don't want to watch. Ya know, there is a 'fast forward' arrow... And, FYI, many folks do like to hear about my week. More than 3,500 subscribers for that matter. Almost 150, 000 views on this video and not really that many complaints. You've been posting for what, 7 years now? And you have 13 subscribers. Guess you know a lot more than I do. Anyway, I do hope you got your stuck lugs off because I know how much grief that can be! Have a good day!
Where did you see or hear me blaming Japanese for this? I actually said "I'm not blaming Japanese steel for this"... Watch it again - sorry for the misunderstanding and thanks for watching my video! :-)
I sure won't, I love working with wood and metal too much! But perhaps someday I'll switch over to a job like yours, being a full time critic. Must be nice...
Okay, there are fast forward and mute buttons ya know. Or, if you don't like what you see, you don't need to watch! My Dad always said, if you don't have something good to say, don't say anything, just move on. Have a wonderful day mate, I do appreciate you watching anyway!
Indeed I do. As a matter of fact, I've since purchased a M18 FUEL ONE-KEY 18V Li-Ion Brushless Cordless 3/4 in. High-Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring, Resistant Batteries - the thing is a beast! I can't believe how much torque (1,500lbs.) it has. No more worries about stuck lug nuts for me! Thanks for responding!