Well done. I’m giving you all of the credit on this one. I’m going to copy this exact layout and will be looking forward to hauling my kayaks so much easier. Thanks for posting this!
Great minds think alike! I also used a Tractor Supply trailer, I used the 4x6 with out the tailgate. I put down a 5/4 PT lumber floor for future use as a utility trailer. I had load bars from a previously owned truck cap and attached them directly to the top of the trailer frame with u-bolts. I then bought some steel square tubing and made a longer tongue so I could haul my 15' and 17' touring kayaks. I plan on making a 2' tall box for this trailer to hold all the paddling gear and mount the kayaks on top of that, still easier than roof topping them. A plus is these trailers are so light that you can move them around by hand like a wagon, great for getting them into tight spaces.
That is a awesome DIY kayak trailer you have. I am thinking about doing something like that myself or buy me an Malone kayak trailer. Only thing is Malone trailers are very expensive but they are rust proof & can store down to a small space. I have a big family wife & five boys & a granddaughter & they all have kayak. So a kayak trailer will be great to have for 7 kayak. Thank you for sharing this video.
Thanks for watching, Mack! Sounds like you will certainly benefit from a trailer to transport your family's boats. I liked the design of the Malone, but couldn't find any in stock (online or in stores), which is why I ended up going with the Tractor Supply trailer and modifying it to fit my needs. You could do something similar with a utility trailer, but use metal (or wood) to frame out multiple "tiers" that you can tie the boats down to. Good luck!
I was able to find a "used", like new Harbor Freight trailer on Facebook marketplace. My brother and I are doing a similar conversion to the HF trailer. We put down a marine grade 3/4" piece of green treated plywood on the bed and used green treated 2x6 around the edge of the bed. We plan to put the J hooks on the trailer the same way that you did; using some scrap lumber. Nothing fancy but functional. I did a lot of research before buying the HF trailer and I am not the least bit concerned about going highway speed with the trailer. We do not plan to fold the trailer. I spent less that $500.00 for the HF trailer that the seller never used and we have less than $200.00 is add-ons, so even if it only lasts a few years, the HF trailer was a great deal.
If you just cut a small hole (1/2"x1") with a jigsaw w metal blade on each side of mesh floor, the ramp will fold flat into the trailer and you can secure it to the floor w heavy duty zip ties.
I like this idea. THANKS! I haul 2 - 4 Kayaks (10 ft) and sometimes stuff a 5th one in there for Scouts. I have a heavier 10' trailer with a wood deck, but with your system, I could store some gear totes on the floor of the trailer as well. Cheers!
This is cool. Thank you for the ideas. I just bought a utility trailer and am planning on doing this for canoes. I was told the railings were not weight bearing (I know the kayaks are light) so I'm not sure this'll work for me.
Just finished doing something similar to my 5x8' trailer. My kayak is huge and was hanging far enough off the back that there was very little weight on the tongue, which caused it to bounce around on the hitch. I needed a solution that would allow me to put my kayak high enough to be flush with the front rail and get the front out over the tongue. I used some powder coated decking joists attached to the inside of the rails and mounted pressure treated lumber between them. I can stand on the vertically mounted 2x6" beams with zero flex. It also creates compartments underneath to keep things like coolers contained. The wood can also be removed easily when the trailer is needed for hauling.
Thank you for the short tutorial, I plan on picking up a utility trailer in the spring to haul my yaks to the water as well. Though I could throw them on the roof of the Outback, it’s a lot easier to load my 75lb fishers onto a low trailer and also gives me the versatility for other uses. Plus I can easily store a small trailer in my garage.
That sounds like a perfect plan! We really get a lot of use out of ours and it is nice to not have to lift the boats up.. we just slide them off the trailer. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you foresee any bowing occurring in the wooden cross supports over time, given the weight of both kayaks? Do you think support underneath would be needed?
Thank you so much for this video. I have the same trailer and have been looking into making it where I can haul at least two kayaks with minimal cutting or welding and your solution is exactly what I've been looking for. Thank you!
Just wanted to drop a think you. I needed an idea for how to convert my 5x8 utility trailer to haul my kayaks on a family vacation. I already had the J Hooks, but wasnt crazy about hauling the kayaks on the roof for hundreds of miles each way. I used your video as the basis of my trailer configuration, and it worked great. I went ahead and used your initial idea for the rear gate, anchoring it down with 3/8 carriage bolts through a 4*4. So thanks again.
Thanks for watching Anthony! We use our trailer often and find it handy to be able to take off the kayak racks and convert back to a utility trailer. Hope you have a great summer out on the water!
Hi Keith - thanks for watching! I’d say they aren’t inherently designed to be used in this manner, but no significant modification was necessary. I used these hooks from Amazon [ a.co/d/27NR4JV ] and simply used a hammer to remove the existing (4) bolts that held the body of the hooks together. I didn’t attach the accompanying clamps, and instead marked the wood cross members for drilling using the now-empty carriage bolt holes. I picked up some longer bolts that were the same profile as the original set, and used them to bolt the hooks to the wood.
Along with all the others - thank you so much for a simple and cheap solution! Other videos involved welding and buying racks and just made something that should be easy, very complex and expensive!
Hi Paul - you might be able to fit 4 across if you got J-hooks that are foldable and can be held vertically in place. Three boats fit snugly on my trailer but I use a Yakima foldable j-hook and two fixed Yakima j-hooks. Glad you enjoyed the video and happy paddling!
Hi Christi! Thanks for watching! I used a mixture of Yakima J-Hooks, including their JayLow (yakima.com/products/jaylow), purchased directly from Yakima or Amazon, and a set of traditional fixed j-hooks that were purchased used, but have since been replaced with the following through Yakima (yakima.com/products/jayhook)
That's what I'm talking about! A simple solution that won't break the bank. I am about to buy a 4x6 trailer and want to build a rack to haul my kayaks. Your system looks great. Was that pressure treated wood you attached the j-hooks to?
Thanks for watching! I’m happy that some of our trailer retrofitting ideas will work for you. We did use treated wood. Hope you have a great / safe summer on the water..
Are there certain bits that you have to buy to drill through the metal? I tried doing that to my trailer and after a couple of holes I didn’t have much success even though I changed to new bits. I have some holes that just flat out will not let me make them any larger to fit the bolt.
Hi Doug! I would stick with name brand bits to start. I’ve had good luck with Milwaukee titanium bits from Home Depot. The Milwaukee shockwave titanium coated set (p/n 48-89-4631) is $39.97 for a 23 piece set with plastic case. It’s the set I used to drill my trailer. Using a cutting fluid like tap magic will make drilling easier and extend the life of your bits. My second tip would be to start with a bit half the size of your final size. Once through, switch to the larger bit. Careful when step drilling.. too close in bit size and it will bind up and snap the bit. Last tip.. go slow and use light pressure. Let the tool do the work! Using too much pressure can work harden the steel and dull the bit. You might need to move your hole locations a bit to get to softer steel. Good luck with your project and let me know how you make out!
Doug, when I drilled into the framing I worried about rust. Purchased a can of Rustoleum gloss enamel and it was a perfect match. Good to keep around for touch up also!
We have the exact same trailer and was looking at racks but wanted something lower. Any thoughts on using a hitch extender? Our receiver was built where it is back more under the bumper. Also, any ideas for u-bolts to hold the wood on as opposed to drilling into the trailer? Thanks for the video!
Lewis, should be no problem at all using a hitch extender. U-bolts can be used for sure. I took a quick look on McMaster-Carr McMaster.com and they have a wide selection of square u-bolts. They might also be a hardware store item if you look around a bit.
So to be clear (and I apologize if this seems obvious)… the U bolt replaces the bolts you used in your video. I would still need to drill through the wood plank and the trailer rim, then use the u bolt threaded through the holes in the trailer rim and the wood to attach the plank
I think I’d place your wood plank across the trailers top rail where you want it. The u-bolt would come up from the bottom, around the metal rail. You would need to drill two holes through the wood plank, add some washers and acorn nuts which are smooth on the ends. With the plank in place, the u-bolt comes up from the bottom (hold it like a U) and around the steel frame. Tap the u-bolt with a hammer and you will have two dimples in the wood so you know where to drill. This is a good mounting method as you don’t need to drill the frame but are only clamping to it.
Hi and thanks for watching! We have the two tarpons and a a Pungo and it’s enough room. You also need room in between for the straps. If I had four boats, I’d pad the 2x6 on the bottom and lay two of the boats flat. I’d then build up a bit with the same design and make it a double deck design. You could fit four that way for sure..
Hi Joey, thanks for watching! I’d suggest ensuring that the pedal kayaks are upside-down so they sit as flat as possible. You might also consider a front and rear tether to limit the possibility of them sliding on the wood.
@@completepete Is there a way to use the harbor freight 4' trailer to set up two pedal kayaks on (one is 12'1" and the other is 10'6"? I am new to the hobby and don't know much about trailers. Also would a truck rack be able to clamp on to the trailer and allow a second kayak to lay above the one on the trailer? I'm trying my best to make the most convient/affordable setup.
Hi Joey, if the harbor freight trailer is 4’x8’ the length is no problem. I’d lay the boats side by side and measure the overall width to see if they can fit. I went the easy way and used the J hooks. I have seen folks use truck racks and even make racks out of wood to double decker the boats. I guess it depends on how comfortable you are with fabrication. I found that the J hooks were easy to install, pretty inexpensive ($30 per pair) and I can strap the boats securely for transport.
@@completepete Thank you for all this information! the Harbor freight trailer I'm currently looking at is 40-1/2 x 48. I want to double decker it with truck racks but am failing to find anything that fits in a 40-1/2" frame. Secondly, is there any safety concerns if my yaks hang off the tongue and back side, or is the only requirement for me to hang a red flag on my haul?
With some of the truck racks you can cut the center tube shorter and customize the width. Overhang in front of the trailer is important so you don’t hit your tow vehicle. I always hang a red marker off the back of my boats to make them more visible.
I used 3 total J-Hooks, two non-folding on either end, and one folding. To mount the folding (which could only attach to a cylindrical object), I bolted some conduit to the wood and attached the j hook to that! Let me know if you have any additional questions, and thanks for watching!
I can’t attach photos to RU-vid comments, so feel free to Email me at completepete6@gmail.com and I’ll be happy to send a photo! The middle folding j hook wasn’t absolutely necessary, but folding allowed me to control (and lock in place) the angle of the hook depending on the size boat I put in it. Fixed hooks have a specific angle that would have led to the three boats banging into one another while in transit, so being able to control the amount of lean on the middle boat allowed for some level of centering to avoid that boat to boat contact.