Feit Electric is a good brand, but I prefer fixtures with replaceable bulbs. The original light fixtures were pretty nice for me, though. Also, I would sell those fluorescent fixtures to make money if I wanted to upgrade my lighting.
great video! only thing i can add is have a backup voltage tester… i once had a defective unit giving me obviously erroneous info so i researched it online & the unit was under a recall!
Yes, it could! I like the idea of using (canless) puck lights too since they're lightweight and don't require additional support structures. There's also a good selection of those that come with a junction box as well, if needed.
You could upgrade Fluorescent Tube Lights to LED Tubes. I used the Toggle Brand from Home Depot. I don’t recommend getting them from the store, but ordering them for Home Delivery. If you do get them from the store, make sure the box has not been opened. Turn the Breaker off, remove the clear cover, remove the wire cover. Cut the wires next to the ballast. Remove the Ballasts. Cut the wires off of the Lamp Holders, on just one end of the fixture. Direct wire the Black “Hot wire, to one wire off of each Lamp Holder. IE If you have two lamps, you will have the hot wire twisted together with two wires from the lamp holders. Wire the White Neutral Wire, to the other two wires off of the lamp holders. Install the end on the LED Tube, with the label, in the wired lamp holder. Snap the metal wire cover, back on being careful, to get the wires inside and not pinched. Turn breaker on and test the light, adjust the color switch to the desired lighting color. Reinstall the Clear Cover.
@@wildcat-diy Thanks! The ground wires go on the same screw and it’s okay if they touch. If I have two black wires from the existing fixture, and one from the new fixture, just connect all three together, and do the same with the white wires? If I cannot get it installed, just cap the wires with the wires nuts and I should be able to turn the breaker back on until I can get it properly installed?
@@DJVijilante *I'd verify the below with your local codes or with an electrician familiar with your local codes, but generally in the US, black wires are hot and there is no need to modify the wiring logic (all same colored wires can be connected together) when replacing light fixtures. Yes, you can cap the black, white and ground/copper wires coming from the light box separately until you're ready to install the new fixture. Electrical tape can be used for extra precaution. I like to have each wire nut spaced apart so there's distance between them. When wiring the fixture: Connect the fixture’s black wire(s) to the black wire(s) from the light box. Connect the fixture’s white wire(s) to the white wire(s) from the light box. Connect the fixture’s copper wire to the ground screw on the mounting plate. For a plastic light box, the ground wire from the light box can be wrapped around the ground screw on the bracket as well but this isn't always possible to do or necessary. Since it's sometimes difficult to connect more than one wire to the screw on the mounting bracket, the fixture's copper wire, the light box's copper wire, and a short piece of the same gauge copper wire can be connected together with a wire nut. Then, the tail end of the short wire can be connected to the mounting bracket ground screw. If the light box is metal, the ground wire from the light box should be wrapped around the metal box's ground screw. Depending on local codes, ground wire ends may not need to be capped together. However, some prefer capping copper wires regardless to prevent contact with other wires inside the light box. Electrical tape can be used to help ensure wire nuts remain in place.
The green ground screw on our old fluorescent fixture was near the center of the fixture's metal housing. On the new light fixtures, the ground screw is on the mounting plate or mounting bracket.
