DIY Micro Tiny Camping Trailer / Camping Pod 

Thanks Kevin

Cool, thanks!

I actually picked on up from harbor freight over the weekend.

Thanks Mike! Good luck on your build!

Awesome! Good luck!

It's always a good idea to repack bearings regularly.

Thanks!

The frame plays a factor as well. Some frames are aluminum and others traditional steel. Wood is also very heavy. Depending on what type it can be lighter or heavier. I own a plastic composite trailer at 6'x8'x6' and it weighs 840lbs! (without options) Composite is definitely the weight saving game changer! With the options and mods I'm building I'm about 900lbs+ with my goal of keeping it under 1,000lbs max. I just discovered foam camper builds! I can just imagine this being combined with composite for an even lighter build!!! People are really pushing the boundaries!

Thank you! Cheers!

I layered the plywood to cover the edges, so the water runs off. For example, the sidewall edges are tucked under the roof. I also filled all the edges, seams, screw holes, and any other hole/gab or rough area with putty, followed by sanding. Then I used two (or three) codes of primer and three coats of high-quality outdoor paint. My thought process was that I have seen painted wood sheds and boats last decades, and if I have covered every hole, then what's the danger? Also, the experiment included simplicity, limited tools, and keeping the cost down. I think we are used to trailers covered in metal and think that that is better. But that requires putting holes everywhere to attach the medal, vents, edging, and corners. I have looked at a lot of used trailers and campers and most of them have water damage from an unsealed roof and it's generally on the edges or around the vents near screws. So, if I don't leave any holes and I do a good job prepping and painting, I think I can get at least 10 years out of a paint job. I build a plywood canoe with my son and we fiberglassed the edges. That might be fun to try too.

Have you considered marine grade paint?

Large/long lag bolts

Thanks!

Give it a shot. It's not too hard.

Hey Ryan and Nicole - good luck! I would do the door different next time. I am about to post a video where I build a door for the "towable tiny cabin" (another video on my channel). For that door, I use a regular locking doorknob that I think I like better than the latch on the micro trailer. For the seals, I used a high quality weather stripping. And I love the idea of simplifying the backend. When I build another one, I will consider two vertical doors or three doors - one horizontal for the top half and two vertical for the bottom half. The hatchback and the horizontal door for the top half can offer some cover while cooking if needed. I would spend some time thinking about water flow (while driving & at rest) and drainage around the doors.

There are several ways. I think the least expensive and safest may be three 2x4x8 and 6 people. Put the 2x4s under the pod - front, middle and back and lift. Similar to pal bearers. You might find some old camper jacks to use. I was thinking in the forest I might use tie downs, come-alongs and trees to help it get it on and off. My son and I used a combination of 2x4's, floor jack, and furniture dolly to load it as it was build on the ground.

I haven't finished the plan yet.

@@TAZAGOOT I would be interested in a set of plans also. What a great job!!🤯

@@TAZAGOOT I'd like a copy of the plans as well. Not afraid to pay for great plans. Will the plans include the wiring? This build is the best I've seen!

I would love a plan design too!

I don't know. I sold it a few weeks after I finished it. But I too would like to know.

Working on putting some details together. In the mean time watch the build video I posted and that will give you some ideas.

Cool! Just curious, what are your winter temps?

No too much, low 32

Awesome! The turn buckles worked well! In addition to the turn buckles, I had stop blocks front and back. I could have also bolted it down to the trailer. I am sure there are half a dozen other methods. Maybe even a roller to make it easier to roll on or off. Good luck with your project. I'd love to see what you come up with.

@@TAZAGOOT I pick up the trailer Tuesday,, I'm planning on 3-4 wks for the build. I'll let you know how it goes

I had it wired for the panel, but never installed it.

Not yet. :(

@@TAZAGOOT are the plans available yet?

@@masons2463 I gotta get them drawn up or build a new one. lol

Hey. Thanks for the note. I towed it at 65. However, I’d go with a trailer with bigger wheels. I think a higher quality trailer is a good idea.

The plans/instructions are 85% complete. I am so close.

Good point. In a heavy rain, you’d want to close the hatch. Otherwise, half the water would go off the back. The other would run toward the hurricane hinge and then to the sides. I am thinking some would run down the outside wall. If this is a regular issues. I’d rig some water proof material from the lid/hatch and attach it so the water drains out of the alley area.

I'd go for the heavier trailer. And I'd go with one that has larger diameter wheels than the HF trailer.

Hey Gary. I pulled the trailer several hundred miles before I sold it. It towed well even at speed up to 75 mph. However, the purpose of this build was to see how inexpensive a build could be. Had I not sold it, I would have taken if off the HF trailer and put it on a better in time.

@@TAZAGOOT Thank you for the feedback. It helps.

Door window from a wrecking yard. The side window is from Home Depot.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Around 1,500 USD

I haven't tried yet. lol

It's holding up well, I think. I'll be getting the plan you soon.

Sure. The drivers side window is from Home Depot. It is a regular home window. The passenger side window I bought from a wrecking yard. It is actually an RV window.

You bet! It's fully insulated. In really cold weather you might need a heater and a carbon monoxide sensor.

Around $1200

Cheap skate. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I did sell this one. I didn't make any money on it because of the time involved. However, it did cover the cost of the materials, a new chop saw, and provided some funds I've used to start on the Tiny Towable Cabin I started.

I could be tempted to build one. I think I spent 1200-1500 in materials and 300-400 USD for the trailer. So, then I'd have to figure in some number of labor. lol It takes a bit of time to build one part-time.

@@TAZAGOOT Facebook has a squaredrop camper group page. We would love for you to join and let us see your builds,,as you can also see ours including mine

breakdownbill1 ok. I just asked to join the group. :-)

@@TAZAGOOT founder said membership dropped from 50 a week to 10 and thinks facebook sets a limit,,let us know if you got in or got blocked I will relay yur message to Louis Piscitelli the founder

Working on completing them. :-)

Good luck with your build!

Three coats of high quality primer and three coats of high quality paint.

Yes, it has the flat 4 wiring. You could wire it to charge from your car if you wanted. The long term plan is to charge with solar panels.

THANKS

You'll be happier with a 7 pin connector because so much more can be done with it.

No welding was required. The trailer was bolted together. The pod is wooden. The seams are glued and screwed then puddied, sanded, primed, and painted. I was also careful how I built the seams so they all overlap top to bottom and or front to back not giving water an easy path in.

I think the trailer limit was 1700 lbs. It weight in at 900. I think that included propane tank, empty cooler, 12 gallons or water, stove, 12 v deep cycle battery, mattress, sleeping bag, and a couple odds and ends.

The passenger side came from a scrap yard and the drivers side came from Home Depot.

Yup. 1/2" plywood. High quality primer and exterior paint.

Pulled great, even up to 75 MPH. But I do recommend a better trailer. This was my first experiment. And as it is removable, I could put it on anything. :)

I am not sure what this means exactly. The insulation helps keep the heat out in the summer months.

There are actually removable stops front and rear keeping the box in place. The main purpose of the turnbuckles are to hold it down.

Still working on them. I just need to finish my notes on the hatch.

You can check out my other video for the buildout. The floor is ass 2x3. The was are a mix of 2x2, 2x3, and 2x4 depending on where I thought the stress might be.

2x2 and 2x3. :)

You could ask somebody. You'll need some money and some tools to complete the project.

High quality primer and three coats of high quality exterior paint.