DIY SCOPE REPAIR PART III covers the procedures involved in reassembling the scope. I also explain how to adjust the scope to be parallax free. Thanks for watching! • Osprey 3 - 9 X 42 Rifl...
Very clear reassembly and explanation of the inner mechanics of an average scope. Excellent addition to RU-vid University! Grateful for you instructing us all on this. 🙏🏽
Thanks, this was an excelent series. As far as factory argon, since argon is heavier than air, if you bought a tank of argon 100% for welding, you could set scope up and fill with argon befor you install objective lense.
@8.10 you can 'pour' argon into the scope as its heavier than air, just direct the hose into the objective side of the vertical scope and allow the argon to force the air out like filling a glass with water. Then you can screw the objective lens back on with a high percentage of argon in the scope. How does one adjust parallax on a scope that does not have the adjuster? I shoot .177 pellets at 25 yds and would like to BZO this scope at that fixed range. That looks very much like my Tasco World Class 3-9x40 scope with a slightly different zoom ring.
The argon idea would work. If your Tasco is made like the Nikon in the video just screw the cover off the objective lens and run the lens in or out to correct the parallax at any given range.
I’m just trying to figure out how to make one go a little higher than it originally set because my scope is 6 inches above my barrel on SKS just the way I mounted it and the mount I bought at It just happened to be a couple clicks away from being set where I want it. I’m still not as confident as you to go in and make any changes, but this helps on if I do want to get in my scope and feel like I can adjust the centers a little more or maybe the scope is just at its limit it was setting too far forward. I pulled it backwards. I don’t know if that will make a difference or not but it seem to with the bore sighting laser, but. I’ve got off more than I can chew. lol
You will most likely have to shim the scope. If memory serves me right the sks scope mounts on the side of the receiver so you can't shim there. You will have to do it in the scope rings. A soda can measures around .010 thousandths. May have to use a couple of shims. With the bore sight you can experiment until you get it close without locking everything down. Not ideal but it will work. 6 inches is a lot of distance between the bore and the scope.
Hey. I have an old fixed power Texan that seems to have somehow picked up a lot of dust and causes a hazy effect that extra pronounced in those lower light early and late hunting times. I could buy a new scope but they’re all so ugly now. Any idea where a guy might learn to build his own tubes and put cheap erectors and lenses in that tube for the sake of building nicer scopes with better lines and finishes?
Thank you very much. I watched the three parts of the video, but I have a question and I hope you can help me. I have a new scope descovery 6_24x44 sfp , but there is a problem when zooming in. The reticle moves to the right. What is the reason for that? Is it the spring or the reticle, and can I fix it?
Hey Ghazwan thanks for watching. You say the scope is new. If you have warranty you should return it to the manufacturer if that is an option. It clearly has an internal problem. The reticle is attached to the erector tube and it sounds as if the tube is moving in the scope. I am speculating though as I have no experience with the scope you mentioned. The spring may not be in the correct position. You can look into the objective lense with a light and see your turret screws and spring on most scopes. Too bright a light will cause glare but when you get it right you can see. Reference the video for the correct spring position. If you have a helper, watch the erector while they turn the zoom. You may see what is going on. Could be movement at the rear where the erector is mounted also. Watch with the light through the ocular lense while an assistant zooms. Hope this helps.
Excellent series and information along with presentation sir! Very much kindly appreciated. Took the dive into attempting to repair a $5.99 6-24x50 NcStar scope I found at the Goodwill Store. Image is always out of focus and when adjusting zoom from the 6 to 17 range of the setting a rectangle appears to enter the view in the upper right corner quadrant at about two o clock moving in towards below the center of the reticle where at the 10 setting the lower rectangle corner begins to enter the lower right quadrant. I've only worked with microscopes and telescopes repair or restoration, so will be an interesting learning experience. Any ideas to start with? Thanks in advance for your time. Kind Regards, In Christ.
@@kennethdellinger2037 Thank you for sharing. Appears the reticle is OK. This design appears more complex than the one shown in your video sir. I think on the left side is another zoom or parralax adjustment knob maybe? Opposite of the windage knob. Also, there is the illumination knob that I am not familiar with at all. After posting, I adjusted that zoom/parallax adjustment knob and found the rectangular bar was moving and not in the exact same position as before.
I thought that might be the case. That is the parallax adjustment on the left side. Sorry I don't have any experience with that design. If you remove the objective lens and look inside you may be able to figure it out. I have a Burris and a Nikon with side parallax. I peered inside with a light and see another large lens and a nut holding it in. Don't know what might be beyond that. For 6 bucks you're not out much if you destroy it. @@jafinch78
@@kennethdellinger2037 I really appreciate your support and definitely no need to be sorry. You're definitely not that there kind sir. I was wondering if the spring is what I'm seeing and now after realizing the tube is also called a reverse lens tube, might be why in the upper right where-as the spring is in the lower left. I also wonder if the focus is out due to one of those two lenses in that tube being out of position. I'll try to document once I find the time to start disassembling when I get my tools made. Thinking I''ll research some more to see if I can find a better diagram to visualize what all is going on inside, before I wing it.
