@@damirzamaliev Я говорил не об инструментах и фрезах, а о способе. Просто я действительно такого способа не встречал, поэтому для меня он новый и интересный.
I love the mahogany jig. Even though pine or some other cheaper wood is used to make a box, when the box is gone, there's still a beautiful part of the wood shop that stays to be admired. Fine job with the box joint. Thank you for sharing.
Great woodworking tip. Except that the potion of the cuts need to be planed in advance of the cuts. Not that in video on the second board the first cut left a very shallow piece for a top locking dow. The because of this oversight their is a lot of potential for blowout or the top Dow during the cut, also during test fitting, and finally during final assembly when glue is added to the pins. To insure the boards stay locked together. As the addiction of the glue between the Dows could possibly be enough to potentially snap that thin top Dow. The general rule for making Dows and Dove tails is half the width is the only sure way a odd count joint will hold and not break. As ever woodworking instructor and person I have known has passed on to me, I pass this on to you.
Sorry, my writing is not broken English, it’s my learning disability, me having to constantly fight Apple’s crappie Auto Correct that is always fighting me and changing my spelling on correctly spelled words during writing that I don’t catch and also it decides to correct when I post, and lastly Apple’s Accessibility which is also supposed to help me doesn’t. On top of all of that my issue from surviving my Stroke make memory and word recall an a real Bewhich. So yes I am glad you having a laugh at my post. But please keep it to yourself or at least keep it short kind and sweet. I have gotten better. But at least I am trying to join you all and share my knowledge. Even though my grammar and spelling is shot. Hell I shake my head at myself when I post 70% of the time. So, I know. Have a good laugh, but just under stand that I went from being an expert to disabled in a turn of a neck. This can happen to anyone. I am just beyond lucky even be writing this.
я таким способом шипы на фанере делал 6мм. Ящики клеил. Только не на фрезере а на пликорезе электричском. вставил туда двойной пильный диск по дереву и всё получилось. когда заготовка длинная например 50 см то так не получается. ошибка накапливается и уходят размеры шипа. приходилось сразу две заготовки которые будут в последующем скрепляться вместе пропускать. иначе шип потом не совпадает
Those are 2 different Pieces from the one's he cut. If you look closely you will see 1 thin cut tab and 1 small notch it goes into on the finished piece. But the first board has no small notch for the thin tab... something not right here🤔
Exactly. It will work only if first piece is finished with full or "zero" cut. In any other case it won't. The only way is to start the next piece with a cut (the first one was started with a tooth) and then use the tool.
J' ai fait un meuble sur mesure avec toutes les fixations de bois a l'intérieur du meuble et dissimuler de l'extérieur il n'y a pas de fixation cela fut un plaisir surtout après pour les sculptures aux ciseaux à bois cela était une commande spéciale pour une personne qui voulait un meuble en bois massif faire des motifs anciens j' ai du chercher des modèles et une fois trouver les faire plus petit cela fut un plaisir de dingue
А никого не смущает, что первая доска при резе и первая доска при стыковки это разные доски. Это делается немного подругому, но почему-то в видео это не показано
Никого, не поверишь, но одну и ту же доску состыковать не возможно, всегда нужна вторая доска. Хотяааа, что это я... Если ты не в состоянии понять последовательность вполне простых действий, как ты писать то научилося?!
@@user-ju1be3ql9o the two pine boards that he cuts are solid pine boards. The two pine boards he joins together are different. The one on the right has a second strip attached to the top. So of the two pine boards that are cut at most one is the one shown at the end.
That, it’s just bad ass. I know people who do these things, and have the tools. One of them has passed away some years ago, but we went back to Rhode Island and got a 1938 all wood diner back in ‘07, that he was rebuilding, and I helped him. I need to get my own place again with a big garage. I learned a lot from that man. Larry.
Not unless he then attached a second strip to the first board and milled it again. You can see on the joint that the board on the right at the end is made from two pieces of wood, but neither of the initial boards are.
I don't speak Korean, so I don't understand the gibberish I had to agree to before leaving a comment. Just wanted to say that that's a cool method for a joint. I'll probably try it for a drawer box.
You might need to explain why the spaces in-between cuts have to match the with of the cuts themselves. If the wood piece you used to make that initial pencil making was any other size, the joints wouldn't work. This may be obvious to many, but many others may need to see why. It wasn't clear to me at first.
What's so amazing about this? Anyone can make something like this with a machine. Japanese people make it with saws and chisels. Processing with a chisel provides a waterproof effect on the surface, which makes the wood last longer. The same meaning applies to scraping the surface with a plane. It takes time, but manual labor is meaningful.
