I tried brushing this stuff on with both a foam and bristle brush. Wasted 2 days chasing bubbles and sanding. Followed instructions to a T, no luck. After finding your video I decided to spray my project. 100% success. I have a Devillbiss FLG4 with a 1.8 tip. Like you I stirred the polycryl and didn't reduce. It ran through one of my autobody strainers with no problem. Glad I stumbled upon your video, I'll never brush this stuff on again. Thanks
Thanks - good job and video. I do a lot of small hobby projects and the spray cans are now crazy expensive. I bought some polycrylic and will first try it in my airbrush. If that doesn't work out than I will use my small spray gun. Thanks again!
I think having the doors horizontal is better than having them vertical for spraying. I have tried both and prefer horizontal. The Minwax Polycrylic is the bee's knees for staining jobs. Also, it is quite satisfying watching someone else spray doors like this. Good job.
Lived in Derby for 6 years while stationed at McConnell. Miss that place. Great video. I've had the same experience with spraying polycrylic. I've done my flats the same way for the last couple of projects. Zero overspray or drips on the corners or underside. Much easier than setting up a hanging rack as the pros do it. The only sanding I've ever had to do with polycrylic was my fault with lint or a gnat during a spring/summer spray. Great job. Love the look of the knotty beech wood.
Great video, doing some cabinets for the laundry closet and convinced me to spay instead of brush on the polycrylic, seems so much easier. From one Victory rider to another.
Actually the ideal way is laying flat like that and one side at a time, I always finish the backs first then flip. I dont know of any cabinet shop that does spray both sides at same time, there are hangers for conceal hinge holes but they are not cheap. All in all you can put a heavier coat without worrying about running or sagging with it laying flat. It is faster and more efficient to hang and do both sides at once, but much easier to achieve an excellent finish with it laying down. Aside from that you did a great job and they came out good.
Good to know, I figured they would have tried to do them quicker by doing both sides. Definitely don't have to worry about runs laying flat like this though. Thanks man
You doing a very good job 👌 i am about to start some projects for my self i love good music and i want to make some speakers act but i dont much knowledge in electronics i just km now how to put stuff i need to find some diagrams to follow and know what to buy and order so i can do the rest.by the way i love your Victory logos i had one hammer when i was back in Australia sadly i needed to leave it behind.take care keep the good job
Appreciate it sir. I did a really simple bookshelf build video a little while back that goes over the whole process of designing and building a full range bookshelf, minus a crossover. There are also a lot of kits people have designed and tested you can purchase, then you just build an enclosure and assemble the crossover. Victory FTW! Has a Jackpot for a while and still own a Cross Country. Sorry you had to leave yours behind!
Nice video. I have the same compressor and spray Polcycrylic all the time using an HVLP. It looked like your spray pressure when engaged was about 30. I find with any tip smaller than a 2.5, the amount of spray is minimal. Do you dilute the poly?
Thanks for the video. I am getting ready to spray some unfinished hickory with my Fuji hvlp, think I’m going to try that poly as well. What did you use? Gloss, semi gloss, or satin on those?
Nice job, thanks for the video. I am getting ready to finish kitchen cabinets stained with Minwax. Questions: What air pressure were you using? Did the Polycrylic require thinning, if so what was used to thin the Polycrylic and ratio?
I usually set the gun at 20-30 psi. I don't believe I thinned this product. If you did, it wouldn't take much, maybe 5% or less water would get it running smoother through your gun.
I don't think I did... if it's not in the video, I didn't. Can't remember off hand to be honest... if you do dilute, shouldn't need more than 5% dilution
Great video and I thought the doors turned out great. I have a small wood shop in my garage and looking to upgrade my staining from wiping and brushing to spraying and was curious as too what size air compressor you’re using and how hard it has to work running an hvlp, thanks
I have a 15 gallon. If you were wanting to get something for larger jobs, at least a 30 gallon if not 60 gallon would be preferable. Bigger reserve, fills faster with a bigger motor... I just have this one cause it's fairly mobile and I don't have a dedicated shop
I have not... ultimately, regardless of sheen, spraying will usually give a smoother finish with less bubbles as long as it's applied correctly. Thanks Tony
You don't have to. Doesn't hurt though since it's water based. All depends on your tip size. The smaller the tip (1.8 mm or smaller probably) you'll want to add a little water
We are spraying with a generic gun at 62 psi 50’ hose and a 1.4 tip. We are getting bubbles galore. No smooth finish. What r we doing wrong I’m so sick of sanding
I just used some that was about 3 years old. It worked but was a little thick, had to water it down about 10%. I'd easily say 1 year and you can get away with longer if stored correctly
When reapplying within the recommended window, sanding is not necessary for adhesion. This was to reduce the dust bumps in the finish for the final coat
