Thank you! Red and black sounds like a good combo, maybe I’ll try it. I’ll need to make myself a few more pairs too, I like that I can make my own size cables for the exact place I need them at.
Great video for do it your selfers. I just bought the canare 4s11 from Blue Jeans Cable with locking bananas on amp end and spades on speaker ends. You can get them full range or bi_wire. I'm running mine full range and after 50hours burn time they sound excellent. Great price also. They take the time to construct a very good product. You'll be pleased !!
great & professional job Sir👍 . the outcome looks really nice. i believe a high quality speaker cables that deliver high quality sound. but paying $$$s and even $$$$s for them is silly and a waste of money too...Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!! I believe the same thing, I believe a in nice quality cables but at a certain point it’s seems a waste, I mean some of them do look nice hehe
It's better to use a jet-lighter to shrink this tubes. They do not soot like a normal lighter. You get them for a few dollars in the supermarket and even at gas-stations. Nice set of 'snake'-cables.
Yeah that’s a good idea! Love those jet lighters too hehe! Although I’ll be scared of melting the tube 😂. As close to a snake I want in my house too hehe
Another example of the smart Murican measurement systems - 14+14=11. While the rest of the world thinks that 2mm sq + 2mm Sq = 4mm sq. Not your fault, I know, just ranting. Cool video thanks for sharing
good technique on removing the outer insulation, i was showed to do it the exact same way by an old industrial electrician. i also wouldn't worry so much about the oxidization of the cable, unless you leave it out in the rain with the copper exposed you will be fine. if you really are still worried just put some flux on the end and heat it up. i am curious why you didn't just buy 4-6mm^2 2core wire rather than having two 2.5mm^2 4 core twisted together, and the ptfe tape under the adhesive heat shrink.
Thank you! I may try the flux tip. The cables will definitely oxidize when exposed to air over time, not as bad as if outside but will stop being shiny. I used the 4 wire configuration because of the star quad topology, the cables/signal does more twisting and reduces electromagnetic interference. I and the take under the shrink is so I can build a smooth transition.
@@onemandiy ah I understand, I’m Fairly new to audiophile stuff, I am an electrician tho so I know a thing here and there that relates. More on the flux I mentioned. There are different types of it and they can be more or less corrosive. Heating it up just speeds up all reactions. If you want Really corrosive flux, get some copper pipe braising flux, give it a good coat in that and then torch it. If you want a long lasting and reliable connection you want to solder it. I always use lead solder to solder as it flows better and I believe less chance of cracking since the lead is very malleable. To clean off flux you should rinse it in isopropyl alcohol. If you torch it well tho most of it will come off.
Quick follow up if you have a moment. Shrink tubing - Why not use the 9/3mm 3:1 in a longer length to cover both red cables and the whole banana plugs ? or the 9/3mm - 2 pieces one for the wire and another for the banana pug ? does it make a difference. Thanks in advance
Nicely Done. Quick question if you have a moment. I noticed you twisted the 2 redish cables together and the 2 whitish together. What made you go that way or that specified somewhere ? Thanks in advance.
Thank you! It’s not specified, but basically color indication to make sure you don’t mix it up. You could make a biamp cable with four plugs on each end, and have two pairs. so you’ll need to keep track of the colors. Hope that helps. Color coding is red for positive hot and black/white for neutral. Hope that helps
I don’t believe that the twisted wires as you have used them add noise protection for two reasons. 1. The voltage and current in speaker wires is unlikely to disturbed by the level of electromagnetic fields found in non-industrial environments. The low level voltages and currents from microphones, electric guitars and Ethernet are another matter. 2. Twisted pair wires only resist noise when used as a “differential pair”. The positive signal is sent down one wire and the negative image is sent down the other. When the two signals are summed by a differential amplifier the noise is cancelled out. SIGNAL + NOISE - ( - SIGNAL + NOISE ) = 2 * SIGNAL
Great Tutorial! Going to make these. I can't wait. I want to make one small change, perhaps you can help. I would like to use PET sleaving on the smaller pairs of twisted wires too. What size do you think that would be?
Glad to hear, it's a fun project! The individual wires are 14AWG with Insulation, I'd say they are about 2.6mm thick, so find a shrink tube that will shrink to 2mm or less. At a 2:1 ratio, you can get a 1/8 (3.5 mm) Diameter Before to 1/16" (1.6 mm) Diameter After. Happy building!
Thank you for your insight! Question... Twisting them together is for the interference between each other to minimize the consequential noise, by "micro-cancelation" all along the cable (canceling most such "inner noise", but not all noise, i.e. interference from external sources). Hence, I'd rather use a plain 12 gage instead of twisting two 14 gage, but I wonder: am I right about this?
Technically, if you use 4 twisted wires for two channels (star quad as the type of the cable) the twists will help cancel more of the electromagnetic emissions rather then 2 twisted wires for two channels. That’s is It also reduces cross talk by twisting. That being said this is more true for data lines that work on much higher frequencies, like ethernet cables, etc
Haha thanks!, haven’t seen one in-person myself! I really like it’s pattern! The cables do look very much like a snake making it’s way through my equipment! I like it!
Bonjour, Merci pour cette vidéo intéressante. Quel modèle je dois utiliser pour mes Focal aria 926 : Canare 4S8 ou canare 4S11 La longueur de mon câble est de 1.75 mètre
Yeah, you're right - they will... They might measure a teeny tiny bit better due to the copper and the connects, depending on length. How they're driven, etc. But it won't be a big deal. But the cost breakdown for these is pretty damn good. It is about $17 per 10 feet. For me, making them look how I want with the sleeving and whatever terminations I choose. That's the whole deal right there. 2, 14AWG cables effectively becoming 11AWG... As a custom cable for my setup. You can either pay through the nose for that customization or you can DIY. Enjoy the holidays!
I only have a budget receiver but I have splashed out over £1,000 on 9 channels of shielded speaker cables and another £630 on a power conditioner, reason being I can't put up with any kind of radio frequencies interference! In fact I've also kept all of my 9 channels of unshielded speaker cable in place so I'm able to do a comparison for my friends and it's only when i point out the differences and then go ahead and connect the shielded cables that everything becomes apparent for them! Conclusion: IMO this proves it's all about ones own perception or dare I say lack of
Nice! You can spend a pretty penny on cables, as long as it makes a difference to you and you enjoy! I really like the cables I built and the start quad helps reduce some of the frequency interference coming from the speaker cables. It’s a good topology, helps prevent some coupling right at the back of your stereo where everything is bunched together.
Built 2, 9 foot cables yesterday.... Going to make 2, 14 foot runs. I saw you have reference cables? How about the info on those? I'd love to make those... You should try 12TC cables too... I am torn... Buy from Aliexpress or make the 12TC's. Thanks again for making this video!
Nice! Those cables will pair nicely! My reference cables are Goertz M1 or M2 flat cables with matching goertz spade and banana plugs. I bought the wire and connectors on sale, maybe I’ll show them some time
Hahaha it’s not that bad 😁. I mean there are 4 cables in there, and the overall diameter is almost 1/2 inch. Imagine going to 10 or 9 gauge... 😬. I’ve seen audiophile cables much thicker then that hehe
I found that heavier gauge wire (12) improved bass response when compared to using 16 gauge, and the improvement was easily and immediately noticeable (it was a small difference, I'm not trying to overstate the matter). But high frequencies were improved with small, single core wire. So there's a compromise necessary when selecting wire for a full range speaker.
Thank you! I did it to reinforce, and smooth out the transition. It will give it a little more rigidity and when the shrink tube shrinks it will look a little smoother. It’s a nice to have but totally optional
Great question! Its done for electromagnetic compatibility and to reduce electromagnetic interference. A pair of wires (+ and - side) twisted together are called a twisted pair. The Canare 4s11 is twisted in a Quad manner with 4 wires twisting around each other and therefore minimizing the electromagnetic emissions (sort reducing each wire's electromagnetic field) and their affects to neighboring systems and wires. Great read up on wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair
I do enough disconnecting and moving around that it justifies the extra effort. I really don't like using bare wire. But whatever works for you, it's a high quality cable, you could get a super cheap set of banana plugs at minimum to keep the two pairs of wires together.
soldering is very important at that point.... if can't find a way to solder or think is risky and complicated, well you should use live wire from an engineer prospective
They are all OCC actually, typically the marketing department would advertise that as a feature. Some are 99.9%, and they keep on going 99.99… 99.9999… 99.99999 and call them a 3n, 5n, 7n depending how pure they are. More pure is definitely more expensive, but to what end 🤷😎
@@garygranato9164 OFC or OCC... Ohno Continuous Copper or whatever... my reply still stands, its a play on "Oxygen purity". And No not an OCC cable, or at least it isn't advertised by Canare as such
if I had a HiFi System that provides Speakers and Amps that would make these kind of Cables nessecary, so something worth several thousand dollars (15.000$ minimum) than I could easily pay ready made speaker cables for a few hundred dollars. if I don't have a HiFi system like that I could use just regular speaker cables in 4mm and it would be enough.
"amp side" vs "speaker side".... irrelevant. electricity is electricity. current is going to flow in the same direction regardless of which end is plugged into which device... and there are no additions to these cables that would make directionality a consideration. (ie no ferrite chokes, chassis grounding etc.)
electrically ye and and you can choose to have either end indistinguishable. However in my design it is very relevant, both ends have different split lengths, longer for the amp and shorter for the speaker. Also I like to pay attention to detail, so I like my wire to run the same way of the lettering :) Kind of the same reason I don't want to wear my sweater inside out hehe
putting on the yellow/black braiding does nothing for sound quality , a waste of time and money. You can therefore make them even cheaper with no change of quality
Go read up on skin effect. Also "work hardening of copper". There will be micro-fractures at every bend. Not good. Especially when the "Oxygen free" dopes tout the reason for the wire type. All those micro-fractures are very bad.
typical vodoo audio. The average physics student is able to show with an ordinary meter that you can connect the best and most expensive loudspeakers with a regular copper cable from microwave or washing machines and you will not be able to hear any difference. It is no coincidence that so-called audiophiles avoid blind listening trials. I will also tell you such a secret ... you can buy or make cables for thousands of dollars, and the manufacturer of your super expensive speakers uses inside ordinary cables that have been purchased for kilometers from the same warehouse for many years. :D :D:D:D:D:D:D:D
A true high end reproduction system (with very good speakers) playing very clean music can reveal differences between various speaker cables, as I have demonstrated for myself and as my video on the topic attests to. But these differences are quite small and can only be heard if the rest of the system is true high end. The system I used to test speaker cables would cost in the range of $3500, not crazy but some serious money. I really like this guy's emphasis on building your own vs spending stupid money on who knows what. See my comment above re building a cable that addresses RF, as this CAN be an issue in some (but perhaps not all) locations.
@depresja wykalczki Bzdura. As speaker builder noted, a high end system can be revealing of anything you change in a system, even tweaks like support cones, pucks, platforms. We can do our own tests in a system and determine which cables or tweaks improve or degrade a systems performance. I've tried expensive cables which sounded worse than less expensive ones and vice-versa. RE: cables. as I've noted before, cables that have equal resistance, inductance and capacitance will sound the same, but if they are different, then the sonics may be different.
Come on dude snake oil , pure snake oil no better than just plain good 14awg speaker wire on amazon for $15. They look nice and you may feel there special, but in the end snake oil no performance gain at all. I have tried high priced speaker cables and interconnects and heard 000000000 difference. The single best audio upgrade that you can really hear a differance is speakers.
Its funny when people get so fixated on a point that is truly subjective that they overlook the the topic of the video.Im not saying you are wrong with the snake-oil comment, although, if your Equiptment is worthy of such cables, you will notice some improvements but they may not be worth cables that are hundreds of dollars each. The real issue here is that you arent even getting the actual point of the video - to make affordable “snake-oil” cables opposed to blowing your hard earned dollars on them.
OOops... first mistake was believing all that "Oxygen free" crap. Second fail is that you should be using SPC, which is Silver Plated Copper. Far better conduction. "Rival" expensive cables? AudioPHOOLS are stupid for ever buying those at all to start with. Then there are those $1200 IEC line cords. Man are Audiophools stupid! So yeah, dude... Silver Plated Copper wire is the way to go. Also, simple paired up wire collects capacitance... a lot. A flat braided cable is far better, especially from a placement/routing POV. Unless you place your front speakers a mere few feet apart near your amp. That would be another fail. "Quad Canare" Oh boy... they saw you coming a mile away. Yes... Silver is better. Just ask the military and while you are at it ask the robot wars guys what they link their power source to their motors with. Audio production is merely a power source connected to a motor (coil). Gotta say it again.... Silver is better. Likely cheaper too since what you bought has a target demographic that involves them knowing how stupid y'all are. Dollars per foot. Bwuahahahaha!
@@stLtBilko Silver conducts better than Copper. And if it is AC, the skin effect is why they use Silver plated Copper for RF tank circuit coils. The issue is that it is prohibitively expensive. So the norm is Silver plated Copper inside a Teflon sheath for the military. The resistance number is lower. Still does not warrant the price points these nuts use on their crap.
@@cosmicraysshotsintothelight Your statement correct sir, what I should have said was pure copper is the best conductor IMHO in the fact that I have tried silver plate copper cables in the past but I would always get slight siblance in the treble & when I switched back to copper only cables my systems always sounded more natural, these were all used on my entry level equipment so I can't say how silver plated cables work for other people, but yeah as you said silver is the best conductor but it's cost makes it prohibitive for most hifi enthusiasts, also from memory silver is only around 10% or so more conductive than copper which along with the sibilant effects it can have on the sound I would advise just using good quality copper cables unless you have an uber expensive system that has a lean ponderous sound overall.
@@stLtBilko I think the "sound difference" was all in your head, and a 'blind taste test'... you would fail. Tubes over transistors, sure... noticeable. This? No way is there a difference in sound.
@@cosmicraysshotsintothelight you weren't there so shut up, & I wasn't talking about tubes I hope your ears are still young enough to appreciate sounds.
@@amazoidal Hello I am unfamiliar with OHNO I will have to educate myself, but Silver is the way to go in my book. But then it is all about what YOU/I hear
@@danielscott1749 If it's all about what we hear... Then your statement about silver doesn't apply anymore. Because you are correct, it matters what sounds best to you. For some, copper, others, silver. I have a blend. I have silver in my DAC line and my interconnects... It changed everything. But I also have built these cables. The whole system comes together nicely... I imagine that silver plated copper on the speaker lines might make things too bright... But I won't know until I try.