Probably not the safest way to do this.likely to damage needles. Stihl tool uses a reverse thread screw. If you sharpen a aheet rock screw just a little, and DON'T crank it down, then reverse the needle counter clockwise, line up the notch, and nipples. limiter cap come right out. Cut the nipples off the limiter cap, and reinstall.
Do you know if is it easy to diy this tool? I mean is there any "inverse" screw with the same diameter normally sales on the market? Appoaite tool is crazy expensive for what it is. Sorry for my eng
No problem removing caps on a couple older Stihls I have. Just have to get a little bite with screw, line up notches, and pull out. A small spiral bolt extractor, or reverse drill bit might do the trick, if you want something that works like the factory tool.
That's what I thought. My STIHL BR380 backpack blower started losing power after running it about seven minutes at full throttle. I tried as many things as I knew to try. It has the adjustment limiters on it and I didn't think there was any adjustments at all with them in place so I left the carburetor alone. A guy I know listened to it and took a screwdriver and turned the high screw clockwise as far as he could (which is not much) with the limiter in place. It started running better. I was shocked. I'll try it again tomorrow and if it seems to run as it should, I'll leave the limiters in place or would you remove them and try to find that "sweet spot". Thanks for your assistance.
Thanks. Great tip. I'll also point out that its not just more oil that helps cool the cylinder, but also the richer mixture slows combustion, reducing pressure, thus reducing heat.
They lean em out to burn up after the 2 yr warrenty runs out. Pretty disgusting. People used to pride themselves on their work. Now all they care about is $.
Question for you. Do the limiter caps prevent the high and low screws from buzzing around when you're running at high rpms? Do you have trouble keeping them set where you want them after you remove the caps? I need to do the same to my MS 290 because it's always lean but I'm worried about having to constantly adjust the screws afterwards.
Doug Beard That's a great question... I don't have a problem with the screws loosening, but I could see where that could be a concern. The main issue with the limiter caps is that the carburetors are tuned so lean that the saw could burn up and sometimes doesn't run properly.
tallfarmboy Thanks for replying! Off they come then. I need my saw to idle and run at WOT better. I'll deal with wandering screws if that happens. Doesn't sound like it will though.
I have a cheap chainsaw and the screws do move some with and without the limiter caps. What I do is adjust the carb for the conditions I am working in then turn the screws in, carefully counting the turns and I make a note of how many turns for each screw. My saw takes a couple of days of regular use before the saw starts to act up but when it does I can get back to where I started in three minutes. If I were a pro I would consider this unacceptable but I'm not and on a $150.00 saw I can live with it.
I just tore down and cleaned my 029 super(best saw ever) but could not figure out how to remove the HI/LO jets. I usually pull both jets out and spray carb cleaner through them. Thanks brother, Vick.
