You know, you started off great. Your saw had exactly the same problem as mine. Bogging down (and THEN) difficulty starting. The problem is the you skipped all that and jumped to where your saw wasn't bogging anymore. That was EXACTLY the problem i'm trying to solve and you skipped it !!!!! I can't "warm up my saw" because it won't stay running and is hard as heck to start. This is VERY frustrating.
As he explained the bogging is being caused by not enough fuel on the low side. Fix this turning the low side needle counter clockwise, you may need to increase the idle speed during this. Although there’s much better videos out there because I completely disagree with what he said about the high side. You do not need a tachometer to tune your high side.
I have 4 stihl chainsaws and numerous deivces with small engines- 2 and 4 stroke (my preference are honda engines) and I have replaced numerous carburetors and I have been seriously thinking about buying a seperator and removing the ethanol from the high octane gas. The ethanol in my opinion is the main culprit though I agree any gasoline siting in the carburetor can cause problems (I usually shut off the fuel first and let the engine run out of gas.
Stop using ethanol fuel, it will eventually damage you engines and carb’s seals. Buy recreational alcohol free fuel and even then completely drain its fuel after use.
Hope this works. After 3rd trip to Jensen Pilligard I need to fix it myself. The draining is the screw up I made. Due to surgery I just let the saw set for a couple of months, which I promised myself I would not do. Thanks for your help.
Quick tip: if your chainsaw seems to bog down after squezzing the trigger like 25% the way. Turn it off instantly and change the fuel. I once was fixing my chainsaw and tried to start it. Started and ran for a few seconds but keeped boggind down and dying. Went to my neibghour, told him the problem and he was like: "Did you change the fuel?" And i was like: " oooh yea i forgot i had 3 year old fuel in it"
Turn the high and low both in till the just seat and back them off 1.5- 2 turns and go from there if it's indeed a carb issue and not a fuel, spark, spark plug etc issue..
If you can't get it running, more than likely, your L screw for idling isn't adjusted properly. I just had to adjust mine this morning as the saw was wide open on idle. I found a sweet spot in between where it wanted to die and before the chain started to turn. I haven't really had to mess with the H screw but might need adjustment if there is issues when cutting.
I am surprised that there was no mention of checking the air filter. If it is clogged up you will not get enough air to mix with fuel to start or run properly.
Bubble burst ! My 017 stihl only has 1 adjustment which is thru the handle bar my ? Is which way to turn it to lower idle speed can't do the thru bar due to its not lined up right have to remove filter to assess carb
If the H screw has been changed,where to start. you gave info about L and LA (screw in to bottom, the 1 1/2 turns out as start points, but said nothing about H. I have a 210 that I cannot get started - never reach the point of fine tune. New carb and ignition module only a few service hours ago. It would run for 20 minutes, then stop, unable to get it started. screws have been changed, now unable to start. Ideas?
Did you double check to be sure your getting a good spark after you replaced the ignition module? May just have to continue playing with the H screw, turning it out 1/8” at a time. Don’t give up..
adjust high speed screw to no load max rpm..then saw will have perfect highspeed mixture low speed helps with how it responds when you suddenly whack the throttle open...you are no mechanic
@bluntforcetrauma2141 start it squeeze the throttle completely and adjust the H at full throttle till it runs smooth some say turn a quarter more after you find the best spot you'll hear it.
