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Go for the stirling engine. You wont know how efficient a heat pump it will be until you install the regenerate, insulate the hot side and duct the air from the fan/pulley to the cold side. My theory with why the cold side is still warm is because without the regenerator, the air from the hot cylinder is still warm when it is arrives into the cold cylinder. As for the friction issue it's possible that plate the reed valves attach to is causing a major restriction (which could also lead to compression and heat in the cold cylinder). If the air inlets in the head are threaded I would plug them and try it without the reed valve plate.
well as you can see when it starts up, the cylinder head on the cold side gets really cold, but then the friction of the cylinder spreads heat to the parts around it. so i think its a friction issue atm.
I would suggest to ditch the ring valve plate holder and connect the head directly to the sleeve. The valve assembly is reducing the flow, increasing losses to no gain. Also I would plug the sump breather if you intend to pressurize it. I love stirling engines. It would be amazing if you manage to make it work.🙂👍
The rust on the valve plates reminds me of when I rebuilt my devilbiss air compressor pump, thankfully parts were still available. by the way, karropak gasket paper makes excellent head gaskets for these compressors.
Awesome idea..Have had a big interest in Stirling cycle engines for years and built a couple basic models. You're on the right track but you need a complete displacer cylinder and regenerator for the full thermodynamic effect of extreme hot and cold. Thanks for the great vid! New sub.
Stirling Engines are great, but they are too good, and they were suppressed, they made them in the 70's, just think what they could do with 2022 tech. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KbnGlcQiL1c.html
Sorry if you took my last comment negatively. I meant it as sorta sarcastic; I love the way you manage to do the things you do. Whatever I’ve been doing in my life, I’ve always played the game by my own rules, and on my own terms. I appreciate what it takes to do that. Building a Stirling engine, or even attempting to, put of a pile of old parts, it’s inspiring. Sorry if you misunderstood what I was trying to say.
dont know anything about stirling engines but the neighbor gave me a funny looking air compressor and i found out the compressor unit was a refrigerant unit and it compressed the air to close to 100lbs i will check out your other channel take care
You need a regenerator in between the two cylinders. A smal can with steel wool in it would work. Depending on whether you are trying to generate hot or cold, you can insulate one of the cylinders - insulate the cold one for generating cold, insulate the hot on to generate heat. The fan will pass fresh air to either warm or cool the other cylinder.
My thoughts: Get a pulley that is not also a fan, or just duct the fan to only blow over the hot side. invert the unit to run upside down to allow a cold finger to be attached to the cold side more efficiently. Duct and insulate the cold side. Attach an air dryer to the cold side to allow liquid nitrogen collection without ice clogs. Hope this helps!
As a heat pump: To get a greayer temperature difference, she will need a regenerator. To get very cold temps on the cold side, she will need better cooling on the hot side. As is, without much regeneration going on, she is mostly shuttling warmed air back and forth. With a little compression and expansion driving a relativly small temperature difference. As a motor: I believe she wont get much power given the relativly low pressure and the amount of friction. If she can improve the piston seals and pump more air in, and implement decent regeneration, then she can get reasonable power from that sized stirling motor.
Great video. I would try adjusting some points: Reduce as much as possible "dead space" inside the caskets for better compression ( filling with steel wool may work and add a piece of regenerative efect) Add a regenerator in the pistons link Take off as much heat as possible from the hot cilinder
(Formerly William Montgomery)Try another cereal box gasket where you put the grease. Grease won’t hold pressure. Also coat the cardboard gaskets with grease, rub it in good. I think it will make a better gasket. You have both, may as well right? The motor has a centrifugal switch for start/run if you didn’t already know bet you did. That would make a good video! I saw a video of a guy did some kind of pneumatic thingy that did a thermal air heat cooling thing that seemed to defy normal train of thought. Wish I remembered the link. Enjoyed the vidjio as they say in the Philippines. 😊 oh yeah, you look like Spider Girl!
the one piston gather all the pressure and the other (cooler) one runs mostly on a vacuum overall not a very efficient setup but it does prove that energy will pool in one direction if you apply enough outside work
Maybe with a few modifications you'd get decent results. - A thicker gasket between the cylinders and crank case to limit heat transfer. - Graphite PTFE piston rings to limit friction. - Getting rid of the reed valve plate between cylinder and head, it restricts air flow. One big issue is the piston rings. If it is a one piece piston, you have to use split piston rings, which means you can't run it at increased pressure, because you can't really pressurise the crank case and you'll get too much blow by. Anyway, good learning material.
Awesome, easy and simple. Love it. Too bad you abandoned it. I'd love to see you seal the crank case and pressurize everything with helium, add the regenerator. Love the idea tho, might make it myself considering no special tools needed.
@@RinoaL well, I don't have a lathe or have access to one, nor I know how to use one, so for me it is best to use as much as possible something that is prefabricated by someone else
If the pipe between cylinders is packed with steel wool, it will stop heat from moving from the hot side into the cold side. It's called a regenerator. IT may develop a knock, if so use nitrogen as a working gas. The difference in terminal expansion properties in the oxygen-nitrogen mix of air produces the knock. The most efficient working gas is Helium - not cheap and needs to at 5bar pressure. Some Sterling engines drive a small pump to pump working gas into the cylinders to get them up to 5bar.
some sterling engine designs have a piece of steal wool in the pipe connecting the two side so that the two sides have an easier time staying different temperatures. not sure if that would help in this case.
I believe what you missed is that you aren’t cooling the compressed gas to ambient temperature. I would suggest you try running water over the pipe that connects the two cylinders and even increasing the pipes length. To achieve better results you can even pre pressurize the system. Also adding a regenerator between the cylinders would help increase the temperature gradient.
some info. it may be that, in a two-piston iteration, the hot and cold displacements should be (mostly) equal. i am less familiar with two-piston. cheers
I would think you'd need the compression side to build pressure into a radiator and then once past the radiator you'd have a constriction with pressure drop where cooling would take place. This could technically be at the input to another radiator. Then you'd connect the suction to that again keeping the cooling side working in a slight vacuum while radiating side works at overpressure.
if it was going to work at all, you should cool the "hot" side. Stirling cyrocoolers are technically, quite sophisticated. but the idea is to have the hot side dissipate as much heat as possible. you're moving heat around. Also, the idea of working fluid pressure is good... but you'd have to block the compressor case vent hole :) Still, you have a heck of a thermal camera! What model is it?
Would be hard to insulate one cylinder from the other. I wonder how well a single cylinder working into a solenoid operated displacer cylinder would work ?
couple suggestions. first, cereal boxes don't make good gaskets. :) Second, if you haven't checked out Blondi Hacks youtube channel, you're in for a treat! Third, if you want to pursue the Stirling Engine Conversion, there are a few details that this paper might give you to save a bit of time. I have to say, your sick-to-itness and willingness to try is admirable! 3 thumbs up from Canada!
one assumption I'm not sure is correct. The 'hot side' is the compressed gas side. When you compress 'most' gases, there is an increase in temperature. But the assumption that the 'cold side' is getting colder should be tested. Since it is not a compression cylinder, if might simply be at ambient temperature.
I think you're doing an interesting project. Teach me something and get the lump of fat behind my eyes to start working. I have a couple of different compressors lying around waiting for a new life. A Sterling engine feels a little too complicated for me, I think I need to understand more about the physical principles. The engines I have seen run different volumes on the cylinders, which makes me wonder if it affects the efficiency.
For a stirling engine to be cold, you have to turn it in the opposite direction................. when you turn it to the right, both cylinders heat up, not just one, one gets hotter, the other less hot, when you turn it the other way, the engine freezes, one cylinder (works) will be very cold, the other cylinder just a little cold.
I'd say you should use a longer pipe between cylinders, so that the hot air does not get to the cold side. And maybe it should not run si fast. Heat could come from friction inside the engine...
remove the heat from the hot side, the cold side will get a lot colder. and increasing the pressure will increase the efficiency a lot. use pure helium or nitrogen or co2 not air. (co2 inst good)
Two sealed pistons does not a stirling make. You have to convert one piston into a displacer. Then connect the cold side of the displacer to the top of the power cylinder. Then you have a stirling.
I'm not sure that adding more air pressure increases or decreases the efficiency, higher working fluid pressure does increase a Stirling engine's power capacity. The Reverend Stirling used a wire regenerator to increase efficiency of his stirling motor. Heat energy gets stored in a regenerator material during one half of the stirling cycle only to be given up to the working fluid on the other half of the cycle. As is, you have some regeneration along the wall of the tube connecting the two cylinders. But, i suspect that a significant amount of heat energy is going from the hotside to the cold side and back. Thus it does not allow the cold side to get much colder. I'm nearly certain that an appropriate regenerator can get you a hotter hot cylinder and a colder cold cylinder. The regenerator will be a challenge to make, needing to withstand the rate of air flow and not create too much restriction. I had put together a list of materials (now lost) with their specific heat capacity, tempetature rise per gram per joule of energy. Then i added the density of the materials, and found that iron had the lowest temperature per joule per cubic centimeter. I belive this is important because it stores more energy inside a 1 cm cube with a given 6 sq cm of surface area for each degree of temperature rise. Naturally one can increase the surface area for a given amount of material so that more of the material is in contact with the air. In other words, a stainless steel wire screen can hold more energy per degree of temperature rise than an identical aluminum wire screen, regenerator. You also want to minimize heat conduction from the hot side to the cold side so aluminum's conductivity is not ideal here as a regenerator material. If you want to see ice or condensate, then you will need more cooling of the hot side. I really would love to see you make a good stirling heat pump. Best wishes. 😀
@@RinoaL I'm not a material engineer though i try to understand what should be a good regenerator. Keeping friction low as possible while the device remains useful is beficial for most things.😀👍 Do you think ptfe max 500f/260c opperating will stand up to the heat when run as a motor?
@@RinoaL i had the thought to use used shock absorbers from a car's suspension to make an inline alpha stirling heat pump. I was thinking the piston heads would be remade with a few ptfe disks and steel fender washers for supports.
regarding both comments, you wont know until you try. and ptfe and some shock absorbers are like 20$ at the scrap yard for enough to try it several times.
More air flow across the fins of the cylinders. I mean, a lot more. Especialy across the hot one. And a waý to increase the heat transfer with the internal air.
Go Sterling - BUT... also check your results from your infrared scan. Note that the cylinders, where the Pistons are up and down, are red because of fiction, but compare the cylinder heads. When you compare the two one is hot and one is cold. What you need to do on both is increase surface area while minimizing the interior volume. Like a pipe in a pipe
If you took a pipe 4 inch (id) as a riser off of the cylinder to a height of 6 in you've just increased your surface area for heating or cooling but you also added volume. If you added a 3 1/2 inch (od) pipe to the cylinder head and inserted it into the 4-inch pipe the 3 1/2 inch pipe, when sealed, becomes a displacer, reducing the volume significantly. You can then insulate the heated side, and add a water jacket on the cooling side.
Also you have an offset pipe going between the two cylinders. If you cut the long end short, and cut it in the middle of the hump, and reattach it you now have a perfect spot to place your regenerator.
If you want an air compressor then use that for an air compressor. There's a reason there are no Sterling Engine air conditioners. Peltier Juction devices are cheap and simple and effective. Nice FTIR. Much better than my Cat S60 phone.
you do realize that stirling cycle cryocoolers are far far more efficient at getting low temps than peltier junk right? thats why almost every MRI machine and Cryopump has a stirling cycle heatpump inside of it. not sure what you are babbling about regarding air conditioning though. Oh and also this is not an FTIR, this is a microbolometer. or is your comment just a big joke that im not getting?
@@RinoaL No, I am serious about everything in the comment. You asked what we think and that's what I think. I admit that I failed thermodynamics twice in college so I've never been interested in Stirling Engines. I've never heard of a microbolometer before.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone seal stuff with *grease* before. Maybe do that better? Pressurizing should improve performance, but the pressure might leak out pretty quick. try not to pressurize beyond maybe 50% of the compressor rating? insulating the cold side is another easy way to get more impressive results.
Have you tried turning your cryocooler/stirling engine, into a generator? Applying heat to the cold end to get it to work as a heat engine instead? The magnets should generate electricity instead of using it. Unless you've already tried that, I intend to purchase a cryocooler stirling motor and try this myself for an engine project.
My goal is a generator, however I need to measure how well it is working, so running it like this is just to see. I would only be able to use it as a generator if running it with a motor got the cold side bellow freezing. But this showed that it doesn't have enough efficiency to work as an engine.
@@RinoaL But it's a stirling engine, I'm pretty sure if you heat up the 'cold-side' it will function just as well? Oscillating just like most free piston designs. Only difference is, cryocoolers need input from a motor, rather than heat. I could be wrong, but I feel strongly as though it could/should work..? My friend and I intend to experiment with this, in this manner.
Stirling engines and heat pumps are exactly the same thing, just reversed. If I were to put a torch on the hot side of this, it is so stiff and innefficient that it wouldn't make any noticable change. However if I run it with a motor I can see it's so inefficient at this point that it is like 10% of what it takes to even make it turn over as an engine.
agreed i may add my regenerator to the mix later once i inspect friction issue. and as for what gas im putting into it, so far its just ambient air. i plan to next up the pressure and then maybe switch to a better gas such as hydrogen.
@@RinoaL For real if you are just using air, then those results are beyond good. Also beware that hydrogen can leak really easy so consider working in open air.
Well have too look at what your doing in person. To see what your trying to do. But if you did what you think you could do to that compressor. Some one would have done it a long time ago. So for me, I would see if clean it up put it back as a compressor and get some use out of it.
@@RinoaL well just going off what I seen and know. Just one persons opinion. Dont take so personally. I have a lot of Ideas of making equipment for all kinds of application. Quit a few people have tried to steal and some did. And made money. I did say if was there and could see what it was your trying to do I might understand it. Like said just one persons opinion don't let me stop ya! Also I I subcribed be grateful
You could probably get more out of it by taking a steel pipe, capping the ends off, filling that pipe full of steel wool, and drilling holes in the caps to attach flexible fittings to go to the ports on the cylinders. It might not be the most effective regenerator, but it does seem like it would be low hanging fruit so to speak. You could also drill and tap a hole in that pipe and mount a fitting and a valve to let you charge the systems pressure from the regenerator.
I want to meet a girl who's down to make a stirling engine! I doubt it will ever happen lol. you're a 1 in a million! Every girl I've ever met or dated didn't really seem interested in them when I showed them the ones I've made over the years.
@@RinoaL If you say so, they have higher rpm, multiple ways of making them higher torque. Everyone likes what they want so I guess I should shut up hehe
Look at the volumes of the cylinders......the displacer (cold side) is smaller, and needs cooling. As can be seen from the picture the cylinder that glows "red" is the cylinder you should heat. This is because the "cold cylinder" or displacer must be at a 90° phase. But as I say, you must have the right cylinder volumes for it to function.....
@@RinoaL I have been interested in hot air Alphas for decades, and the 90°V twin is the top of the heap. How are you intending to heat the hot cylinder and cool the Displacer? Are you going to cool the regeneration......the pipe between the cylinders?
It's a pity. It would be very interesting to see what happens. There is already a temperature difference between the cylinders, and this is how the Stirling engine works. I would try heating the hot cylinder while cooling the cold cylinder.
The fact that both sides heat up overall means that it needs more efficiency though, such as teflon piston rings and thinner lubricant. It wouldn't be worth trying if it can't get the temperature lower on one side, because a stirling engine has such low torque that friction would stop it.
Im seeing compression but not a stirling cycle here. This looks like a motor driven heat pump with low efficiency, they use scroll compressors now in refrigeration.
try researching stirling engines before trying to build one perhaps one of the first things you should discover is that the pistons need to be 90 degrees apart not 180 degrees as you have.
some info. 1) there are BASIC reasons why a heat engine-cryocooler has Never been commercialized. ( can you see them. ) 2) so, why bother??? 3) if the Stroke lengths and cylinder spec's are IDENTICAL, there are (potentially) Major design issues to deal with. cheers
I think you are doing great, a bit Heath Robinson maybe, but keep going. You need (In my humble opinion) skim the fins on the cold side, except the last one, and fit a water jacket, it does not need a radiator for testing, just a little head. The fins on the hot side need removing, then you need a new/adapted cylinder head for the hot side bcoz you are going to heat that side. Someone said about a tin can in the regen side, that is awesome, give them a big pat on the back. Stirling Engines must be good, they tried them in vehicles in the 70's I think they were too good and they were quashed ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KbnGlcQiL1c.html
@@RinoaL ah i see rather then the sterling engine been on a cup of hot water it would be on a cup of ice basically small scale models i mean but that big unit on a cup hahaha
no, a stirling cooler would create ice, not run on it. its takes rotational energy to pump heat. meanwhile a stirling engine takes heat to make rotational energy. its a cycle that can run both ways. people drive stirling cycle coolers to create their own liquid nitrogen for instance.
@@RinoaL *I guess so. This is an exercise in ignorance. A Sterling engine must be extremely efficient in regards to frictional losses. This project using an air compressor is analogous to making a Swiss watch out of stone.*
