Thanks for watching guys! Don’t forever to subscribe! I have had no vibrations since install 👍🏼 PLEASE NOTE: After filming I noticed the carrier bearing was oriented upside down. Please face the single hole towards the ground when bolting up to truck! Thanks! Instagram 👇🏻👇🏻 instagram.com/adv.4x4?r=nametag
Thanks for video, helpful. The flange Bolt torque is 54 ft-lb vs 65 ft-lb in video, per 2003 Tacoma service manual (page PR-10). Also, the slip joint (sleeve yoke) is already towards differential on TRD 1st gen Tacoma OEM drive shaft.
Just ordered my ujoint kit and this is definitely one of the best diy videos I've seen. Very well shot and got all the information I needed. I will for sure be referring back to this for when I do mine!
Awesome video! You make it look far easier than some of the other videos demonstrating how to replace the U-joints… I really like the technique with the vise rather than the way people do it with a ball joint press!
Correction: The nut at the bearing should be torqued to 134 ftlbs to seat the bearing race, BUT then loosened and re-torqued to only 51 ftlbs, then staked in place. Per Toyota FSM. Thanks for the vid! Very helpful overall.
Great video however, per my 92 Toyota manual the center bearing needs to be: 1) Torque to 134ft/lb 2) LOOSEN NUT 3) re-torque to 51ft/lb. I bet yours is very similar.
Your videos are amazing. Clear and to the point. Question: Is there an easy way to know if my driveshaft is simply out of balance? U-joints have been replaced which got rid of the main vibration under acceleration. About 1000 km later I developed a speed-dependent hum/vibration that is constant even if I coast in neutral at higher speed.
Dude I tried doing this to my Tacoma. The u joints were a total pain. Plus when I put everything together there was some vibration when driving. Not too much, but noticeable. I had to take it to a driveshaft shop and they rebalanced it. I’m a moderate diy guy, but I think I’ll pass on this job in the future. Love the video though.
We just did this to one of our Toyota trucks. It does not work better. It vibrates makes a weird noise without the rear was going out. They flipped the driveshaft back around put it the way it went correct and the noise went away
thanks for the video. I was able to do the job and it went pretty good except for my bench vice breaking half way through the job. I also lost the carrier bearing bolt because why would anything go easy?
you bolted the center support bearing upside down the two slotted holes in the middle of the center support bearing housing go towards the floor board, and the hole in the center faces the ground. the way you have it puts more of an angle on the rear shaft. if you flip it the right way it spaces the bearing down from your floorboard to correct the angle.
Yo I have a 2010 SR5 Pre-Runner and I'm thinking the wobblin I'm hearing is from bad U-Joints. Appreciate the in-depth process! I'm looking forward to knocking it out!!
That may be my drive shaft I had the shop toss after they replaced it. You said Uwharrie and I am about an hour from there. Question, what size are the carrier bearing bolts? I need to buy some but can't figure out what the thread size is and the length. I know its a 14mm, but that's it
Which carrier bearing did you use? And how long do they last? Just ordered a Spicer 5002007 for my lifted 2012 TRD Sport 4x4 4.0L. Oh and excellent video btw. Thanks for not videoing while holding the phone in one hand. D’uh.
Cut them off with a Sawzall. Weld a nut on them and remove. File down two sides and put a 1/2 on them. Heat them up and use one of those stripped nut socket things? Take a cut-off wheel and cut them off, or at least cut through the nut. There is a way to get them off.
If you are doing this in an effort to stop the 'vibration' it does not work. I found out the $500 spent was wasted. Make sure you need to replace this because it is truly worn out and not for vibration purposes. Dang I wish I had known.
@@3DDavis1989 Nope still searching. I may go to the dealer to see if they have an idea. I can't be the first person to bring this issue to them. I wonder about rear shocks and the possible dampening effect they might have with one in front of the axel and the other in the rear of the axel. Also, I am thinking the feel of the vibration seems like a much smaller version of what a drag racing vehicle experiences at take-off which they control with traction bars extending out the back of the vehicle. Now I can't have those hanging out but it feels like the same fundamental issue to me only smaller scale. Please let me know if you find out. I can't believe someone has not already found out and made a video about it.
Update. I want to apologize to the content creator of this video. I was still pretty upset coming off of this not fixing my issue and thought I was helping others. Since that time it seems his video is helpful and many who are getting the help they need. My search will continue and again my apologies. Looking back, I probably (with a calmer head) should have not posted at all or at least made my post more along the lines of a "hey, this may not work for you" post. Again, my apologies and I hope you can forgive me to the creator. 🤐
@@k.bronson7343 if your vibration is a rotating verrrr at 30-40 ish mph and your are lifted 2.5in or more in the front it could be your driver side differential where the cv shaft goes into they wear out because of the looseness of it and they make a clamshell bushing that can replace it and fix it
We, the driver won't come out of the transmission. We put it all back together and now it's making a quick quicken noise like metal on metal like almost like a fan clicking noise. What do we do wrong?
what brand? reason i ask is most aftermarket store brands can be crap. the factory bearing is a Dana as they make their drivelines, last one i ordered for my truck had Dana all over the box but the bearing was wrapped in Toyota plastic bagging and had all the Toyoda markings and logo in the rubber just like the original. Got mine from rock auto at almost half the price the Toyoda dealer gave me. if your talking autozone's duralast then id believe it. My neighbor went thru three duralast carriers on his F250 before he went with something else, cant remember what. same reason i wont use their wheel bearings, warranty is good but i don't want to do it every three to four months.
My old driveshaft on my 2006 Toyota Tacoma four-wheel-drive was taken apart at the slip yolk, and was not indexed. I understand on my vehicle, anyhow, that the slip yoke will only go on two ways. There’s wider spines on the slip yoke, which allows the yoke to be installed one of two ways. Will this matter in the balance, please help I’m replacing a carrier, bearing and joints on my driveshaft and putting the old one back in, the shop removed the driveshaft for me, took it apart at the slip yolk and then index anything. Please help any advice would be great.
Refer to my video but I believe you can simply line it up by referring to the u joint ears at the end of the shaft it either lines up with it or is 180° out I wouldn’t think it would be aligned unevenly
I have a 2005 tacoma with a 2.5in lift. I had my center bearing replaced 3 weeks ago. Well the mounting bolts broke off and now the drive shaft is hanging down..... The mechanic who did the job claims its the bind from leaf springs that caused the bolts to break.... Any idea what happened?????0. I never hit anything and I dont off road hard at all...Thanks
broke off cleanly or pulled/fell out? sounds like he might have not tightened the bolts or blue loctited them and they may have came loose. Same happened to me when i bought my 2013 new. I made the dealer go thru 3 different rear ends because they whined while it was under warranty. 1 replacement still whined and the 2nd was to tight according to them when they installed it. 3rd was great till i was driving home one night pulling a trailer and it started acting weird/sluggish. when i got home i happened to drop my phone getting out of the truck and it bounced just under the running board, bent down to grab it and saw my carrier was dropped and hanging sideways by one loose bolt. further inspection showed the missing bolts hole was stripped and the whole shaft fell when i went to tie it up the next morning because i was making the dealer pick it up with a rollback. Needless to say i was not happy
I use to hear good things about moog but heard recently their quality went to shit. These looks like they sealed and easily unlike actual crappy brands. How have these been holding for you?
I need help please. I did it step by step and everything was almost perfect. Now I have the 4WD light flashing on the panel. This situation has me worried because I don't touch, much less disconnect, anything. I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes and there were no changes. Any ideas or suggestions?
The 2nd gens don’t have one on the slip yoke unfortunately which is dumb in my opinion because I’m about to pull mine apart this weekend and grease it for that exact reason 😂 as for the ujoint fittings my new ones came with those flush ones that require the tapered needle tip 👌🏼
@@Adv4x4 my 2013 has normal zerks on all three u-joints and the all the joints for the 4WD from factory, It's a TRD sport V6. grease every 5000 when i do the oil and still smooth @ 145,000 miles. Did have to do the carrier tho as the rubber loosened around the bearing and shaft.
Not only is the carrier upside down, you also used cheap SHIITT Moog. Should have bought the Dana Spicer joints as used by Toyota during original manufacturing of the vehicle.
Spicer maybe one of the "top" quality, I don't think Moog is "Cheap or SHIITT" quality. But yea, I would go with Spicer and would not hesitate to use Moog Ujoints.
